Chapter 32 dick again dick

Chicken is the most common meat and food producer for human beings. Among human beings, the Chinese love chicken the most and are the best at eating chicken. Therefore, Yuan Mei said: "The hero of the chicken is the most, and all the dishes depend on it." It can be regarded as a high evaluation of the chicken on behalf of all Chinese people.Li Liweng's evaluation is slightly inferior, but he also advocates special end-of-life care for chickens. "The punishment for cooking seems to be slightly wider than that of geese and ducks." According to the recent news released by the National Chicken Council, the average amount of chicken eaten by each American in 2000 has reached 36.7 kilograms, which is far more than the amount of beef and pork eaten by Americans every year .According to a poll conducted among 1,009 respondents, 89% of American consumers eat chicken at least once a week; the number of people who eat chicken at least three times a week also accounts for one-third one strong.

The NCC said the rise in chicken sales is due to its popularity because of its ease of preparation. It turns out that it is not "all dishes depend on it", but "efficiency depends on it".Chickens in the United States—strictly speaking, they should be "chicken", all of which are processed frozen chickens, sealed in vacuum packaging, so huge that you need to use both hands to pick them up from the supermarket freezer and hold them in your arms. Absolutely loud.After returning home and thawing, the white chickens that were about to come out with quadriplegia doubled in size, even though they were all beheaded.

I have seen famous TV chef Zhen Wenda (Martin Yan, born in Guangzhou, cooked in the United States as the host of the TV show "Cooking + Talk Show" named Yan Can Cook) play such a thawed one for American housewives on the show. The finished chicken, I remember that "Easy!" and "Cheap!" were the two keywords that appeared the most in that cooking show. In addition, I still remember Yan, who had a hippie smile, called the chicken with a beautiful body. Make Sleeping Beauty (Sleeping Beauty). Although it is cheap, convenient and nutritious, few Chinese like to eat American chicken.

"Everyone says that the United States is good, only eating chicken can't forget it", this has always been a hard-to-drink memory of American chickens for Chinese living in the United States.Netizen Tuya once wrote about the feeling of eating chicken in a foreign land: "On Christmas Eve, I have no relatives and no friends. I sit alone, my eyes are dim, and the chicken tastes like chewing sawdust. After a few mouthfuls of vodka, I feel Home and country are thousands of miles away, chicken wings and drumsticks are like machine parts, hard to swallow.” I am afraid that the sadness of being alone and having no friends and being thousands of miles away from home and country is generally instigated by the chicken "like chewing sawdust".In other words, as long as the chicken tastes better, even if it is only a little bit like white-cut chicken or Texas grilled chicken (this Texas is not short for Texas), this Christmas Eve may not be so sad.

By the way: Tuya mentioned above that the American chicken "like chewing sawdust" picked up on Christmas Eve is most likely a capon.According to the USDA's classification of processed chicken, the castrated males, about 15 weeks old, weigh between 2.72 and 4.08 kilograms after hair removal.In the United States, capons are also known as "Christmas chickens" and are often served at holiday meals. Ah, the capon!Speaking of capon, this is a delicacy that Master Hua Tuo unintentionally invented when he was developing Yaoyin, and today's Guangzhou people are particularly salivating about it.The big Zhanjiang capon (also known as gelding chicken) in the area of ​​Yueken Road is white and shiny, dipped in soy sauce with garlic and sesame oil... Poor Tuya.

What makes Chinese chicken dishes memorable to Chinese people is not only the difference in chicken species, but also its cumbersomeness—it is the opposite of American "efficiency".Only a chicken of extraordinary complexity can evoke such a complex of emotions.Complicated and cumbersome not only includes the type of chicken, the way of cooking, the taste of chicken dishes, and even the form of eating chicken - I wonder if anyone remembers the "eating chicken" performed by Wang Jingyu back then?The genius Wang Jingyu mobilized almost every muscle in his body to interpret the scene of a person eating a chicken so vividly and vividly.As for why the classic "eating chicken" became popular as a "sketch", that's another story.

Although cumbersomeness is not the only way to deliciousness, as far as the case of chicken is concerned, the reason why American chicken is not as good as most Chinese chicken dishes, in other words, is that it loses out to cumbersomeness. Dezhou Braised Chicken (also known as Dezhou Roasted Chicken) may be the representative of northern Chinese chicken dishes.The variety of ingredients is the key to its success: pepper, mushroom, clove, amomum, cinnamon, cardamom, grass fruit, angelica dahurica, anise, caramel, and more than ten kinds of Chinese herbal medicines.Use about two catties of raw chicken, take out the viscera from the opening under the neck and wash them, weave and insert the two wings, dehydrate them a little, then fry them in an oil pan, take them out, add ingredients for deep smoking, and finally cook them in a large pot Steamed through.

It is said that the first-class Texas grilled chicken is lifted with the hand for a little shake, but the bones of the chicken are slowly falling off, but the skin and flesh are still intact, which is a miraculous skill. In addition to the production method, there is another very similarity between the famous northern chicken, that is, the delicacy is spread by railway.In fact, Dezhou grilled chicken was not a specialty of Dezhou at the beginning, but a product of the time-honored Deshunzhai in Yucheng County, Shandong Province, a hundred miles south of Dezhou.The reason why Yucheng Braised Chicken was later changed to "Dezhou" is because the latter is located in the hub of Jinpu Road, with a huge passenger flow, so the operator moved to this place.Compared with Dezhou Braised Chicken, it is also heavy in color and rich in flavor, but the taste is inferior, and the production is a bit rough. Henan Daokou Roast Chicken is also famous because of the Beijing-Hanzhou Railway.

This kind of delicacy, which was born under multiple complicated processes, was finally sold to the passengers traveling from south to north on the train in a way similar to fast food. From the perspective of railway travelers in the fast food era, what a luxury travel this is , What an age of luxury! The beggar chicken originated in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River. It is said that it was originally made by beggars. This is not the case at all. The chicken needs to be tender, and the mud needs "medicine mud". The belly is stuffed with various condiments, and it is decently wrapped in a lotus leaf. Let alone a beggar, Americans will probably cry when they see it.

The Cantonese cuisine before the "violence" was not based on seafood, but was able to rely on the highly refined treatment of materials. "Jinhua Yushu Chicken" is a masterpiece in this regard. Compared with the "chewed chicken" in the north that tastes bold, the chickens in southern Guangdong appear to be serene, graceful and luxurious on the dining table.The "Jinhua Yushu Chicken" was first created in the kitchen of Guangzhou restaurants in the 1930s. It not only has a good reputation, but also looks very good.The preparation method is: first soak Hainan Wenchang chicken in the soup until it is only cooked, pick it up, remove the meat and bones after cooling, cut into rectangular slices, then soak the chicken liver until cooked, and cut into chicken slices together with Jinhua ham The size, and the chicken slices are arranged on the plate, put it in the steamer to reheat, and then pour the gorgon on top.

When serving the table, there is a green rapeseed placed vertically in the center, hence the name "Yushu".The eating method is also very particular: chicken, chicken liver, and ham, these three slices must be sandwiched and eaten at the same time. This Guangzhou restaurant dish, also known as "Guangzhou Wenchang Chicken", has been spread all over the country for half a century, and it is still seen in traditional Cantonese restaurants in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai and other places.However, in Guangzhou restaurants, even in the main store of Guangzhou restaurants on Wenchang Road, the products are disappointing to me. Although the chicken, chicken liver and ham are put into the mouth together, it is really strange to eat, but , I definitely didn't get the taste that Wenchang chicken should have, because I have eaten real Wenchang chicken in Wenchang County, Hainan, so I doubt whether the "Wenchang Chicken" here is named after the Wenchang Road where the restaurant is located. I found that most of the dishes that win with complexity are actually quietly fading out of the mainstream, not only "Jinhua Yushu Chicken".On the one hand, the high cost of labor has led to an expensive price (Jinhua Yushu chicken is priced at 140 yuan each in a restaurant in Guangzhou), on the other hand, the "Rococo" style on the plate is not in line with today's aesthetic fashion. Fortunately, we also have more than 20 kinds of Cantonese-style famous chickens with medium to high technical difficulty, such as Qingping chicken, Shishi chicken, salt-baked chicken, and the newly joined Guangdong big goose chicken, so that the tradition and delicacy of chicken can be "uncovered". The chicken pecks non-stop" forever.Otherwise, it is really "the eucalyptus is withered, how can the chicken be embarrassed". In the eyes of those who know how to eat chicken, foreign chicken is not tasty. In addition to the simple and straightforward cooking method, it also includes the chicken breed and the highly mechanized breeding process. It is a fatal failure due to congenital deficiency and acquired imbalance. Although the living environment of most chickens in the Chinese market is no different from that of American chickens, fine-bred native chickens are still subject to individual protection to a certain extent.The so-called "free-range chickens" advertised during the Guangzhou visit does not mean that other chickens soar in the sky or swim on the water all day long. It refers to the chickens that grew up under semi-intensive feeding methods and lived a semi-individualistic life. A semi-collectivist life. Take Wenchang Chicken as an example, its ancestors are said to have lived in Tianci Village, Tanniu Town, Wenchang County, Hainan Island.There are several big banyan trees in the village, and the seeds are scattered on the ground, which become the favorite food of chickens.Since the Guangxu period, under the biochemical action of generations, it has gradually cultivated today's high-quality chicken breed with petite body, shiny coat color, thin skin and tender meat, crispy bone and crispy skin.Modern breeding, although there are not so many banyan seeds to feed, but it also keeps it in the forest on the mountain farm, giving it a space, allowing it to move freely, and eating enough wild fruits, snails, insects and other animals Protein and green feed, morning and night, and a small amount of crops such as rice, bran, and sweet potatoes.After stocking for about eight months, the chickens were gathered and placed in a quiet and dark place, and they were not allowed to move around at will, and they were forced to fatten continuously for more than 30 days.This process is similar to the "quiet period" before the company goes public.In contrast, broiler chickens in the United States generally only need six to eight weeks from birth to market. It is a delicacy that has been brewed since birth.The white-cut chickens of Beijing's "Tanjiacai" also raise chickens themselves, starting from babies, and feeding them with alcohol, caterpillar fungus and other nutritious feed, so that they can be slaughtered after eight months.Before serving, it should be cooked with the soup made from old chicken. Chicken raising, cooking and even eating chicken in China are mostly complicated and "slow".The failure of Shanghai "Ronghua Chicken" to challenge "KFC" is really a mistake of knowing the enemy but not knowing the few.