Chapter 21 meaty banana

Like it or not, a sausage seems like such a straightforward thing, a meat that is complicated to make but easy to eat, like a meaty banana. If you want to compare sausages with bananas, in addition to the high similarity in appearance, the convenience of eating is the common user-friendly interface between the two.Xiaoyu'er sneaked into Jiang Yulang's hiding basement that "took a year to dig out" and used the cesspit as a cover, but saw that "four or five quilts had already been laid out there, and there were two jars of wine." , and a lot of bacon, sausages, glutinous rice cakes, and there are more than a dozen books at the moment. Xiaoyuer can't think of anyone who can find her. He lay down comfortably on the quilt and picked a sausage , Sniffed, took a bite, the taste of the sausage was actually good, very good. Xiao Yuer smiled and said: "The refuge in the cesspit, the sausage in the cesspit...Jiang Yulang, you are indeed a genius.'"

Please note that the sausages stored in the secret room are "hanging". A person "lying on the quilt" can "pick" it off with just one hand. This verb actually eats out a cesspit. The smell of wine pool and meat forest came. This kind of fleshy banana is said to be an invention of the Romans. In China, there are written records of more than 1,200 years ago.During the Qingli period of the Song Dynasty, the prototype of sausages stuffed with seasoned meat stuffing and dried in the small intestines of pigs and sheep began to appear.Although it is highly processed meat, in China's refined food culture, this kind of thing is probably not elegant. Classical literature rarely has detailed records of sausages. Into the marriage, Xiao Jinxuan's selected books under Baixia" read:

"Ji Tianyi went out for a while, and brought a waiter with four jugs of wine and four plates: a plate of sausage, a plate of brine shrimp, a plate of water chicken legs, and a plate of jellyfish, which were placed on the table. Zhuge Tian Shen is a native of the village, and he didn't recognize the sausage. He said, "What is this? It's like a pig and bird (note: bird means poop). "Xiao Jinxuan said: "You just eat it, don't ask him." Zhuge Tianshen ate, Said: "This is bacon!" Xiao Jinxuan said: "You are here again! The bacon has a skin that grows around? This is the small intestine in the belly of the pig!""

When it comes to internal organs and intestines, the taste buds and vigilance of the eater will probably be alert at the same time.According to the "Murphy's Law" (Murphy's Law) that Europeans and Americans often use to laugh at themselves: "The less people know about the process of making sausages and laws, the sweeter they sleep at night." Chinese sausages are undoubtedly a hundred times more delicious than foreign sausages, but as far as the types of sausages are concerned, the share of Chinese sausages in the thousands of sausages in the world is really not that much.

Adding Germany and Italy together, there are at least a thousand kinds of sausages.Although the Germans have enough reasons to believe that sausages were not invented by the Romans, the origin of sausages is indeed closely related to the culture of eating pork.All countries with large sausages, such as China and Germany, are among the largest pork consumption countries on the planet.Once upon a time, the Romans were also pork lovers in Europe. "Spartacus" reproduced the grand occasion in the Roman Colosseum: "The commoners sitting on the stone steps of the stands everywhere took out the food they brought from home from time to time. They have good appetites for food—some eat bacon, others cold pork or sausages, and some a kind of bun or rusk stuffed with curd and honey."

Of course, novels cannot replace history, but the Romans not only loved to eat pork, but also used pork to persecute those who did not like pork, which is also well documented. There are thousands of sausage grains in Germany, the most common ones include Frankfurter wurst, and other calf sausages, foie gras sausages, spice sausages, curry sausages, meat sausages, sausage pig ice cream, etc. are also very common, and the types are generally divided into There are two types of smoked and unsmoked. The former is suitable for barbecue, while the latter can be boiled, fried or fried in addition to barbecue.In fact, the image of the German "biting a sausage with a beer" has become something of a popular myth.Long Yingtai once pointed out that, except for the northerners, not all Germans like to drink beer.Similarly, a German friend of mine who has lived in Beijing for seven years said that rather than saying that Germans love sausages, it is better to say that they have to eat them; rather than saying that Germans drink beer with sausages, it is better to say that they are the collective of the nation. Unconsciously came to eat sausage.

In any case, the enthusiasm of the Germans for sausages cannot be doubted.Although Rostock in eastern Germany has seldom defeated the European champion team Bayern Munich, a small sausage sold in their home stadium was held in a "stadium sausage competition" organized by the German "Sports Bild" (Weekly Sport Bild). ", with high quality and low price topped the Bundesliga "sausage list".As for Bayern Munich, it ranked fifteenth in the ordinary, but barely got rid of the bad luck of "relegation". Chinese-style sausage, I think Cantonese-style is the best.Of course, this statement may cause strong backlash from sausage lovers everywhere, among which Sichuanese and Hunanese may be the most violent.

In fact, it is precisely because I have eaten sausages from these places that I have come to this conclusion.Although Cantonese sausages, Sichuan sausages and Hunan sausages are all sausages, the production methods are similar, except that the latter two have an additional smoking procedure in the process of pickling.After being smoked with rice, cane peel, orange peel and wood chips, the smoked sausage is dried, and a special flavor is added to the sausage, but in my taste, the smoky taste is really Too rich and too salty. A very special kind of sausage is produced at the junction of eastern Sichuan and western Hunan. It tastes very spicy. Instead of calling it "sausage", it is better to call it "spicy sausage".Of course, this kind of "sausage" has a benefit that Cantonese sausage does not have, which makes up for my long-standing regret for Cantonese sausage, which is thick, long, and black. In contrast, the poor Cantonese sausage is Like a child who has not yet entered development.Therefore, the cross-sectional diameter of this "spicy sausage" is twice as large as that of Cantonese sausage, and it is indescribably enjoyable to eat.My poet friend Ermao opened a restaurant in Chengdu that specializes in "bandit dishes" in eastern Sichuan. Of course, "spicy sausage" is also his favourite.He said that this kind of sausage must be cut obliquely to be big and thick enough to be delicious and enjoyable. Therefore, it can only be eaten in his own restaurant, or he can simply go home and DIY.

Even so, in terms of taste, Cantonese-style sausage is still more "harmonious", more neutral, and more transparent. It can also be called "heart intestines" or "a strand of soft intestines".In addition, there are many types of porridge. Besides the commonly eaten pork, the fillings in the casings also include pork liver sausage and duck liver sausage. Because the Cantonese taboo for "dry" is "moist", it is so delicious. The liver and intestines in traditional Chinese medicine are also called "moistening the intestines", which will inevitably have unpleasant associations with constipation and defecation, which directly teaches people's liver and intestines to be broken.

Among the Cantonese sausages, the best one is Dongguan sausages.The sausage is thicker than ordinary sausages in appearance, but it is as short as a thumb, and at most it is no longer than the index finger. It is a bit reluctant to say that it is "intestine", but the appearance is actually closer to a very kawaii round drum. Meatballs.In addition to the selection of ingredients (only the hind legs of pigs are used for the lean part), and the appropriate ratio of fat and lean (three fat and seven thin), I think the deliciousness of Dongguan intestines is very important, the process of drying and drying is very important, that is to say, In a sense, the special flavor of Guanchang is determined by the unique wind and sunshine in Dongguan.This may be the essential meaning of the word "flavor".When the north wind blows, the scene of a plump sausage gradually ripening, gradually permeating, and gradually oozing out the fragrant wax oil in the steam and aroma of rice will make a Cantonese feel happy and sad.

It is not certain that Taiwanese are the most knowledgeable about eating sausages among the Han Chinese, but when it comes to their love for sausages, I believe that compared with them, any people in any province can barely reach the amateur level at best. Just like beef offal in Guangdong, sausage is the most common and popular snack on the streets of Taiwan, and no matter where Taiwanese people go, they will bring sausages. Now, "Taiwanese sausages" can often be seen on the streets of inland cities. Shop sign.Although sausage is definitely not on the table in Taiwan, even a Taiwanese who gargles with shark fin every day cannot deny that sausage has undoubtedly become a symbol of Taiwanese food culture. Strictly speaking, although the stuffing is also pork and spices, Taiwanese sausage is not a sausage, but a sausage that has been lightly seasoned, cured, and then slightly dried.Barbecue is almost the only way to cook Taiwanese sausages. A sausage that is grilled just right is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.The top-quality grilled sausage is also made with the top-quality Kinmen sorghum. After it is cooked, there is an intoxicating aroma of wine in the heat, and the wine is full of sorrow.In addition, grilled sausages are usually sold in the form of stalls in night markets or streets and alleys, so they have always been regarded as a kind of food that can be eaten immediately, but grilling takes time.On one side, there are customers standing in the cold wind and drooling, and on the other side are the busy bosses and employees buried in the smoky fire. Only the sausages are lying on the charcoal fire. Squeaking hot oil.The delicacy of sausages has gained value in such a tense triangle relationship. Sausages are not only edible, but also very playful. At the mobile sausage stand, you can play a game of "sausage betting" with the boss, which is called "Sibala" in Taiwanese. The two sides take turns throwing dice in a bowl, and the loser will invite the winner to eat free sausage.On the surface, this small gamble is beneficial to the banker, but most of the situations I have encountered are the sausage owner’s treats, and the dozens of hot grilled sausages that I won won’t be finished by myself, so I will invite a big stall The diners at the next table who looked pleasing to the eye helped to eat it. When you are lucky, you can even win a whole car of sausages to "feast the guests" on the spot. When the guests and hosts raised their glasses frequently in a pleasant and friendly atmosphere, they suddenly looked back and saw that the person who had just been in a "digital decision-making game" The loser in the "Game" pushed the empty bicycle and disappeared into the dimly lit night alone. Of course, being able to push the car home is still considered a blessing. When encountering an opponent with high luck, the owner of the sausage car loses his eyes, and sometimes even loses with the car.At this tragic moment, he still went home alone, walking back empty-handed. Although grilled sausages, which usually exist in the form of husband and wife stalls, are a small business, the gross profit of selling sausages is generally more than 50%. Excluding the booth rent, the purchase price of each sausage is NT$13. Selling for 30 yuan (approximately more than 7 yuan in RMB), you can make a net profit of 17 yuan. In general downtown areas, near schools, night markets, etc., there are about 300 sales per day on average.Because the capital is small and the profit is huge, some well-known brands in this industry, such as "Honggui" and "Dahua", have grown into a big business in the form of patent franchise operation in recent years, a chain of sausage stalls under the famous brand , ranging from dozens to hundreds. The fierce competition in the sausage industry has prompted the industry to rack their brains and use their brains in the development of sausage flavor.The bold use of ingredients can be said to be the most exotic aspect of table sausages.It is precisely because of this that fashionable sausages have been baked in this long-term "ancient road".If the American hot dog is a sausage sandwiched between two slices of bread, then the characteristic of the Taiwanese sausage is to stuff all delicious and edible things into a sausage that has been cut on both sides. There are more than 20 types of sausage stalls produced by famous brands: lemon, fragrant tea, charcoal, spicy, garlic, basil, black pepper, honey sauce, cheese, wasabi, even more incredible, even chocolate flavor Yay for grilled sausages! (Whether it is delicious or not is a matter of opinion.) At the same time, in order to further win over new and new human customers, the sausage industry also significantly reduced the ratio of fat and lean meat of sausages from the traditional 37 to 1.5 to 8.5, and advertised their grilled sausages as "low-fat, Low calorie, low salt".The revolution of desktop sausages is based on such a basic concept and model, that is, sausages are only used here as a medium for various condiments, a platform, more precisely, a strip for carrying and disseminating condiments. The succulent "piping" of the product.Before that, casings were also a conduit for carrying and distributing pork, and the success of things often depended to a large extent on finding the right form for a certain content.In this sense, sausage is undoubtedly the most successful.There is such a dialogue between the countess and the clown in Shakespeare's "Finally Married": Countess: "Then your answer is equally appropriate to any question?" Clown: "As fit as a lawyer's bill, as a whore's night's wages, as a wedding ring on a bridegroom's finger, as a pancake on Shrove Day, as a masquerade dance on May Day; as a nail in a hole , a turtle is to a green turban, a girl with a sharp mouth is to a rascal, a nun's lips are to a monk's mouth, or a sausage is to a sausage skin."