Home Categories Essays Chinese Tea Classics - Part 2

Chapter 8 6. How to drink tea

Chinese Tea Classics - Part 2 陈宗懋 11210Words 2018-03-18
There is no clear boundary between the drinking methods of different teas, and they can even be used interchangeably.However, it is worth noting that when drinking, people have different pursuits for various teas. For example, Pu'er tea and Wuyi rock tea pay attention to strong and fragrant, green tea pays attention to light fragrance, black tea pays attention to strong freshness, and West Lake Longjing tea pays attention to color, color and fragrance. Fragrance, taste, shape, generally speaking, the requirements for all kinds of tea are all about the word "alcohol", which is the inherent quality of all kinds of tea.The reason why people emphasize the drinking methods of various teas is, in fact, to bring out the inherent characteristics of various teas.

The essence of green tea is to keep the bright green characteristics of the raw leaves without fermentation. Early green tea in my country was founded in the Tang Dynasty and flourished in the early Ming Dynasty.Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, green tea has been the main tea consumed in the country, and it has been exported on a large scale, so it is well-known both at home and abroad.The production and sales status of green tea still has many characteristics. It has at least five "most": ——Green tea is the most widely produced tea in China, and it is produced in 19 tea-producing provinces (regions) across the country; ——Green tea is the most produced tea in China, accounting for about 60% of the total output of the six major teas in the country % or more (including scented tea raw materials); ——Green tea is the most abundant color variety among the many famous teas in my country, accounting for more than 90% of the number of all kinds of famous teas in the country; ——Green tea is the most consumed variety in my country, It accounts for about 30-40% of the total consumption of all kinds of finished tea in the country, and green tea is consumed in the east, west, north, south; ——China's green tea is the largest source of supply in the world's green tea market, accounting for more than 80% of the world's total green tea trade , is also the main variety of my country's export earnings.

Because green tea has such a wide base of production and sales, a large number of people drink it no matter in the south or north, the place of origin, the sales area, the city, the countryside, or even abroad, which makes green tea drinkable in various ways. colorful.To sum up, the representative drinking methods are as follows: 1.Glass brewing method The glass brewing method is suitable for drinking delicate and precious green tea, and is convenient for fully appreciating the shape and inner quality of famous tea. Before brewing, appreciate the color, aroma and shape of dry tea.Take a cup of tea leaves, put them on a clean white paper without peculiar smell, and observe the shape of the tea leaves.The shape of the famous tea depends on the variety, such as strips, flats, snails, or needles to appreciate its production process; observe the color of the tea leaves, or dark green, or dark green, or yellow-green, or how much; then smell the aroma of the tea , or creamy aroma, or chestnut aroma, or pan-fried aroma, or indescribable fresh tea aroma, fully appreciate the regional natural charm of various famous teas, called "appreciation tea".Then into the brew.

The tea is brewed in a transparent glass cup, which is convenient for observing the slow stretching, swimming and changing process of the tea in the water. People call it "tea dance".The specific operation of making tea depends on the tightness of the tea sticks, and two brewing methods are used respectively. One is to brew famous teas with tight and heavy shapes, such as Longjing, Biluochun, Duyun Maojian, Mengding Ganlu, and Lushan Yunwu. , Fujian Lianxin, Lingyun Baihao, Yongxi Huoqing, Gaoqiao Yinfeng, Cangshan Xuelu, etc., can use the "upward investment method".That is to say, after washing the teacup, pour boiling water at 85-90°C into the cup first, and then put the tea into it. Generally, the tea leaves will sink automatically and slowly without a cover, but some sink first and then, some sink in a straight line, and some Some are lingering and descending slowly, some sink up and down and then fall to the bottom of the cup; dry tea absorbs water, gradually unfolds the leaves, and one bud, one leaf, and two leaves appear. The leaves are like flags; the water vapor on the soup noodles rises with the fragrance of tea, like clouds steaming under the clouds, smelling the aroma of the tea soup while it is hot, it is refreshing; observe the color of the tea soup, or yellow-green and clear, or milky white and slightly green, or light green and yellowish. Looking at the sun, you can also see the fine hairs sinking and floating in the soup, sparkling and star-spotted.The leaves of tea 531 are more delicate and tender, and there are more scattered in the soup. This is the characteristic of tender tea.This process is called wet viewing appreciation.

When the tea soup is cool to the palate, taste the taste of the tea soup. It is advisable to take a small sip and swallow slowly, so that the tea soup can fully contact the taste buds of the tongue, and appreciate the charm of the famous tea.At this time, the tongue and nose are used together, and the aroma of tender tea can be tasted from the tea soup, which is refreshing.This is called first-boiled tea, focusing on tasting the freshness and fragrance of the tea; when there is still one-third of the water in the tea soup in the cup (it is not advisable to drink all the tea after one-boiled), then add more boiled water, which is called two-boiled tea .For example, if you drink a famous tea with strong tea leaves, the Erkai tea soup is thick, after drinking, the tongue will be sweet, the aftertaste will be endless, the teeth and cheeks will remain fragrant, and the body and mind will be comfortable.After drinking to three times, the general tea taste is already weak, and drinking more water will appear bland and tasteless.

The second is to drink well-known teas with loose tea strips, such as Lu'an Guapian, Huangshan Maofeng, Taiping Houkui, Shucheng Orchid, etc. If the "upward casting method" is used, the tea leaves float on the soup surface and are not easy to sink.You can use the "medium cast method", that is, after enjoying the dry tea, put the tea into the cup, pour boiling water at 90 ℃ to one-third of the cup capacity, stop for two minutes, wait for the dry tea to absorb water and stretch, and then flush to full. At this time, the tea leaves are floating and sinking, or wandering between the ups and downs. Watching the dynamics of the tea shape is very interesting.Other appreciation and drinking are the same as before.

It is of course also acceptable to use an opaque white porcelain cup to brew and drink fine and tender famous tea, but it is a shortcoming that you cannot see the whole picture of the changes in the tea in the cup, and cannot fully appreciate the tea in the soup. 2.Porcelain cup brewing method is suitable for brewing medium and high-grade green tea, such as first- and second-class fried green tea, pearl tea, roasted green tea, sun-dried green tea, etc. The focus is on palatability, taste or quenching thirst.Generally, after observing the color, fragrance and shape of the tea leaves, brew them in a cup.The "middle casting method" or "bottom casting method" is advisable. Brew with boiling water at 95-100°C, and cover the cup to prevent the aroma from escaping. After 3 to 5 minutes, open the lid, smell the tea fragrance, taste the tea flavor, and drink until the third boil, depending on the thickness of the tea soup.This brewing method is more convenient for guests to offer tea and drink tea during office hours.

For the cup brewing method, the ratio of tea leaves to water depends on the taste of the person. Generally, 3 grams of tea in 200CC water is moderate.Those who like strong drink can add a little more tea, and those who like light drink can add a little less tea. 3.Teapot brewing method is generally not suitable for brewing delicate and famous teas, because there is too much water, it is not easy to cool down, and the tea leaves will be stuffy and overcooked, making the tea leaves lose their fresh fragrance.The pot brewing method is suitable for brewing medium and low-grade green tea. This kind of tea contains a lot of cellulose, is resistant to brewing, and has a strong tea flavor.When making tea, wash the pot first, put the tea into the pot, and brew it with boiling water at 100°C until it is full. After 3 to 5 minutes, you can pour it into a cup for drinking.When there are many tea drinkers, it is better to use a pot to brew tea, because you are not enjoying the fun of tea, but quenching your thirst, or drinking tea to chat, or eating snacks, and enjoying tea friendship.

It is a common etiquette for people of all nationalities in our country to offer tea to guests, and it is generally more solemn to drink tea in cups.The pot method is relatively vulgar.In some areas, in order to express respect to guests, sugar is added to the tea to show sweetness. 4.The method of drinking tea and eating dregs The tea dregs (leaf bottom) left after drinking precious and tender green tea are very tender and lovely, and it is a pity to discard them. People in some areas chew and swallow the tea dregs to make full use of the nutrients in the tea. Although it feels ugly, it is actually beneficial.certainly.The tea leaves are old and the fiber is aging, so it is not suitable for chewing.This method of eating tea and chewing dregs has existed in ancient times. It is recorded in "Qing Barnyard Banknotes": "Hunan people not only drink the juice of tea, but also chew it with tea leaves. When people come to the house, they must cook tea. It is disrespectful for 731 to pour out the pot to serve the guests. When the guests go, open the lid of the tea bowl, and there is nothing left in it. The tea leaves have already entered the stomach.” Today, in the mountainous rural areas of Hunan and other places, there is still this custom of chewing tea dregs. Habit.

5.The method of drinking tea with rice In rural areas in the south of the Yangtze River, during busy farming seasons or hot summer days, people do not have leisure time to savor tea, so they often combine tea drinking with meals.Make a big pot of tea or a big pot of tea every day. When eating, add the regular tea to rice, and eat the tea, rice, and vegetables together.This method is not only found in China, but also in Japan in the east. 6.The single brewing method: tea leaves are only brewed once, then the tea dregs are removed and discarded, and then sugar is added to the strong tea soup, and some milk, lemon, etc. are added, mixed and drunk.This drinking method is suitable for teabags.This kind of tea bag contains tea powder, and the tea juice can be fully brewed as soon as it is opened.Mostly for foreigners to drink.

7.Mint sugar tea cooking and drinking method The ancient Chinese drank tea by cooking, adding spices and other condiments to drink together. This ancient tea-drinking culture was later spread abroad, and now countries in northwestern Africa, such as Morocco, Algeria, Mauritania, Mali, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea, Burkina Faso and other countries drink tea, and still retain the ancient Chinese drinking method Mark of.The people there generally believe in Islam, and they are not allowed to drink alcohol, but they are allowed to drink tea. They have been fond of drinking Chinese green tea pearl eyebrow and pearl tea for a long time.There is a set of special tea sets for boiling mint tea, including metal (silver-plated copper) or enamel teapots, small glass teacups, high tea trays, charcoal stoves, kettles, etc. When making tea, wash the tea set first, put 25-30 grams of tea into the pot, pour in warm water, cover the pot, shake it a few times, then pour out the tea and discard it, which is called "washing tea" - washing away the tea (Muslims love cleanliness), add water to the pot, add 8 sugar cubes of sugar, add 3 fresh mint branches and leaves into the pot, boil with tea, and boil on a smokeless charcoal stove for about After 5 to 8 minutes, thicken the tea soup and pour it into several small glasses; prepare an empty cup, increase the tea soup in the cup and pour it into the empty cup, and pour it several times to fully mix the tea soup.At this time, the color of the tea soup is yellowish brown, with a lot of bubbles floating up. They think that the more bubbles, the better the quality of the tea.When the temperature of the tea drops to the palatability, it is given to people sitting around the stove to drink slowly. It is called the first cup of tea. The tea juice is thick and the tea taste is very strong, sweet and refreshing.Then add water, sugar, and mint to the pot as before, and cook for a second time. The cooking time is extended for a minute or two, which is called two cups of tea.After drinking two cups, boil again.The tea dregs are discarded after being boiled three times and used to feed cattle and sheep. People drink three cups of strong tea, suddenly feel refreshed, chat with tea friends and family members, and enjoy a brighter future.It has become a habit for people there to drink three cups of tea after three meals a day, one to help digest beef and mutton, and the other as a kind of spiritual enjoyment.Chinese green tea is well-known in the local urban and rural areas, both young and old.The people there also have a folk proverb that "it is better to be without food for three days (because there is meat) than to be without tea for a day".Green tea and mint have a cooling effect, which is suitable for people's diet and life in the local hot and dry desert climate.This mint tea is the most representative drinking method of Chinese green tea abroad. In addition, people of all ethnic groups in China have various ways of drinking tea, such as "boiling and drinking" - tea is boiled slowly in a pot and poured for drinking. "Boiled drinking method" - tea is boiled into a pot to make a thick juice, and then mixed with boiling water for drinking. "Roasted drinking method" - green tea is dry-roasted in an earthen pot to foam, and the tea is fragrant, and then flushed with water to drink juice, the tea is fragrant. "The method of beating and drinking" - put the green tea into the pot and add 931 oil to fry it dry, put it into the beating bowl, grind it together with sesame, peanuts, soybeans and other foods into fine powder, put it into the pot and boil it for drinking. It has a unique farm flavor. It is an ancient Chinese drinking method. One of them is still very popular in the mountainous areas of southwestern provinces. Nowadays, there is often an undesirable "thermos bottle stuffing tea method". Take tea into the bottle and let it sit at high temperature for a long time, and then pour it out and drink it. (Wang Yufeng) Black tea is widely consumed, which is related to the quality characteristics of black tea.The color of black tea is dark brown and oily, the aroma is rich and sweet, the taste is mellow and sweet, the soup is bright red and yellow, and the bottom of the leaves is tender and even red.The reason why black tea is attractive is not only because of its bright color and mellow taste, but also because of its poor astringency, mild temperament and tolerance.People often drink black tea, which is sour like lemon, pungent like cinnamon, sweet like sugar, moist like cheese, all of which complement each other and complement each other.Perhaps this is the most lovely thing about black tea. As for the drinking method of black tea, there are no less than a hundred kinds of different people, events and teas. Here is a brief introduction: 1.According to the color and variety of black tea, it can be roughly divided into two types: Gongfu drinking method and fast drinking method. ① Gongfu drinking method is a traditional Chinese way of drinking Gongfu black tea.Gongfu black tea includes Souchong black tea and Gongfu black tea. Famous ones such as Lapsang Kungfu Souchong, Tanyang Kungfu Souchong, Keemun Kungfu, Yunnan Kungfu, Zhenghe Kungfu, etc., all belong to the type of 041 tea, which pays attention to the appearance and tightness of the cord. Slender and delicate, the inner quality is fragrant, the color is bright and the taste is mellow.The focus of drinking Gongfu black tea is to appreciate its fragrance and mellow taste, so the brewing method is often used, that is, put 3 to 5 grams of black tea into a white porcelain cup, and then pour it into boiling water. After a few minutes, smell its fragrance first, then watch it Color, then taste.A cup of tea can usually be brewed 2-3 times. This drinking method requires the tea drinker to work hard on the word "taste", slowly pour the drink, sip carefully, and in the process of slowly appreciating and appreciating, eat the mellow taste of the tea, appreciate the true fun of drinking tea, and make yourself The mood is joyful, detached and complacent, and obtains spiritual sublimation.But if you want to enjoy this kind of happiness, you must, as Mr. Lu Xun said: "First of all, you must have time, and secondly, you must have a special feeling from training."These words are very pertinent. Generally, those who have rich experience in tea evaluation will gain a deeper sense of beauty in the "effort" of tasting, and the accumulation of evaluation experience lies in hard work and more practice. ② The fast drinking method is a drinking method developed in this century, mainly for red crushed tea, black tea bag, instant black tea, black tea milk crystal, milk tea juice and other colors. Broken red tea is a kind of granular black tea with small size and high cell fragmentation rate. The tea content is easily soluble in water, suitable for quick brewing.Generally brew once, at least twice, the tea juice will be very weak.It is more convenient to drink black tea in bags. One cup is one bag. Gently shake the tea bag after flushing with water. After the tea juice dissolves, you can take out the tea bag and discard it. The tea soup is clear and there are no flakes left. .As for instant black tea and black tea milk crystal, you only need to brew it with boiling water, and you can drink it as you like, hot or cold.Milk tea juice is a kind of liquid tea, which is available in cans and boxes, and is the most convenient to drink.In addition, iced tea is also popular in western countries.With the acceleration of the pace of life in today's society, commercial tea has developed from a simple solid type to a solid type and a liquid type.The fast drinking method of black tea also radiates and spreads from the west to the east. 2.According to the seasoning, whether the tea soup is seasoned or not can distinguish the drinking method and the blending method. ① The clear drinking method is the way of drinking black tea in most places in China, and the Gongfu drinking method belongs to the clear drinking method.That is, without adding any condiments to the tea soup, the tea leaves can exert their inherent fragrance.When drinking a clear drink, holding a cup of good tea in hand, appreciating it silently, appreciating it carefully, and drinking it slowly can make people enter a spiritual state of selflessness, joy, lightness, excitement, and ease arise spontaneously, just like Su Dongpo's metaphor "A good tea is always like a beautiful woman." Huang Tingjian chanted tea as "the flavor is strong and fragrant forever, drunk on the road of the country, and it becomes a beautiful place. It is just like the shadow of an old friend under the lamp, who has returned from thousands of miles. You can't speak, but you are happy and introspective."In Lu Tong's "Seven Bowls of Tea" poem, the pleasure of drinking tea is even more vivid on the paper.Therefore, Chinese people like to drink clear tea, especially famous premium tea. You must drink it clear to appreciate its unique flavor and enjoy the fun of drinking tea. ② The method of mixing and drinking refers to a method of adding seasoning to the tea plantation to taste the soup.In ancient China, round tea and cake tea were crushed and boiled with condiments before drinking. With the innovation of tea-making technology and the creation of loose tea, the method of drinking tea was gradually changed to brewing, and the brewed tea soup Add sugar, milk, sesame, pine nuts and other condiments.This method gradually spread to various ethnic minority areas and European and American countries.The current method of mixing and drinking is more common to add sugar, milk, lemon slices, coffee, honey or champagne to the black tea soup.The type and quantity of seasonings added vary with the taste of the drinker.Some also add sugar and lemon, honey and wine to the tea soup at the same time, or put them in the refrigerator to make refreshing drinks with different flavors, all of which have unique flavors.What is also worth mentioning here is tea wine, that is, adding various fine wines to tea soup to form a tea wine drink.This kind of beverage has low alcohol content, does not hurt the spleen and stomach, and has the aroma of tea and wine. It is quite suitable for entertaining guests and entertaining guests. It has become a new drinking method favored by the masses in modern times. 3.According to the tea set used, it can be divided into cup drinking method and pot drinking method. Under normal circumstances, Gongfu black tea, Souchong black tea, black tea in bags, instant black tea, etc. are mostly drunk in cups.That is, put the tea in a white porcelain cup or glass, brew it with boiling water and drink it.Broken black tea and black tea at the end of flakes are mostly drunk in pots.That is, put the tea leaves in the pot. After brewing, in order to separate the tea dregs from the tea soup, slowly pour out the tea soup from the pot and place them in small teacups for easy drinking. The tea residues remain in the pot, or brew again. It is very convenient to discard or re-foam.This method is very suitable for entertaining guests in teahouses and restaurants, or when three or five friends gather to discuss matters.What kind of drinking method should be carefully studied when receiving guests, because the same drinking method, some places think that "drinking a pot of tea together" is an expression of intimacy, but in Hunan, if you use a pot of tea to entertain guests, it will be a sign of intimacy. It was considered impolite. "Qing Barnyard Banknotes" contains: "Hunan people not only drink the juice, but also chew the tea leaves. When a guest comes, they must cook tea. It is disrespectful to pour it into the pot to serve the guest. When the guest leaves, start the tea." There is nothing in the lid of the tea bowl, and the tea leaves have already entered the stomach." Maybe this is the reason why the teapot is not used. 4.According to the extraction method of tea soup, it can be divided into brewing method and boiling method. ①The brewing method is to put the tea leaves into a teacup or teapot as mentioned above, then pour them into boiling water, let them stand for a few minutes, and drink them when the contents of the tea leaves dissolve into the water.This method is simple and easy to implement, and is enjoyed by the general public. ②The brewing and drinking method is mostly used when guests drink tea before and after meals, especially in minority areas, they like to use long-mouthed copper pots to make tea, or use coffee pots to make morning tea.The amount of tea in the pot depends on the number of tea drinkers or the size of the pot.After the black tea is put into the pot, add clean water to boil, then pour it into the teacups with milk and sugar in advance, and share it with everyone. There are also a pot of sugar and a pot of milk on the table, and everyone can add milk and sugar to the tea according to their own needs.As for weddings, funerals or large-scale gatherings, the tea is often put into a thermos barrel, poured into a sufficient amount of boiling water, stirred gently to dissolve the tea juice and then prepared for drinking; or brew strong tea in a large teapot, and then pour it into the thermos barrel Prepare to drink.The former is convenient, but the outlet is easily blocked by tea dregs, and it is troublesome to clean. The latter is more hygienic and easy to add water and clean up. (Zhao Minghui) Sipping oolong tea in a small cup can not only quench your thirst, but also enjoy an art.Oolong tea not only has the mellowness and sweetness of green tea, the freshness and richness of black tea, but also the fragrance and fragrance of scented tea. "Green leaves and red border" is a unique characteristic of oolong tea. After the tea leaves are brewed, the red and green leaves complement each other, which is very beautiful.Oolong tea is one of the wonderful flowers in the Chinese tea garden. People in Fujian and Guangdong like to drink oolong tea, especially those in southern Fujian and Chaoshan in Guangdong are the most particular about drinking oolong tea.Because it takes a lot of time to brew, it is called drinking "Gongfu tea".Authentic Chaoshan Gongfu tea requires water from mountain pits and rocks, while the fire must be burned with olive cores, and crisp cans are used for pots, and high-quality oolong is selected. Only by scientific brewing can the high-quality tea be brought out fully. The unique color, aroma and taste of oolong tea.There are many varieties of oolong tea, and different varieties of oolong tea have their own characteristics after brewing. For example, after brewing, Wuyi rock tea has a rich and long-green aroma, a mellow aftertaste, and clear orange-yellow water; after brewing, Tieguanyin tea has an elegant aroma like orchids, a strong taste with a hint of honey sweetness, and is very resistant to brewing. Seven bubbles have a lingering fragrance, both Shengmiao 441 fragrance and innocent taste; other oolong teas also have their own characteristics after brewing. Drinking oolong tea must meet the following conditions in order to taste the wonderful taste of tea and achieve artistic enjoyment. First of all, choose high and high-grade oolong teas, such as Tieguanyin, Huangjingui, Wuyi Narcissus, Chaoan Fenghuang Dancong, etc. Then a set of special tea sets must be prepared.The most exquisite tea sets for drinking oolong tea are called "four treasures": jade book pots are generally flat thin porcelain pots, which can hold four taels of water; Chaoshan ovens are made of white iron, small and exquisite; The most expensive, this kind of pot is not only unique in shape, rich in color, especially purple, but also has a good water absorption capacity, and the tea leaves can last for a long time.The longer the teapot is used, the more mellow the aroma of the brewed tea leaves; Ruochen Ou is a small white porcelain cup, which can only hold three or four milliliters of water, and products from Jingdezhen and other places are mostly used. People from Chaoshan, Guangdong Province are the most particular about using oolong tea sets.From stoves, charcoals, fans, to tea washers, teapots, teacups, flushing cans, etc., there are nearly a hundred kinds of large and small. Of course, modern people would not use such cumbersome tea sets.But from a historical point of view, this is also a traditional Chinese culture. After the tea set is ready, start to make tea.The water for making tea is best to use high-quality mountain spring water, and the water temperature should be the second boiling water (that is, the one that has just been boiled).Hard charcoal can be used as fuel, and some olive pits or dried sugar cane are also used. There is a traditional method of making oolong tea: before making tea, rinse the teapot, tea tray, teacup, etc. with boiling water, and keep rinsing during the brewing process to keep the tea set clean and quite hot.Then separate the tea leaves according to the thickness, first put the crushed powder to fill the bottom of the pot, then cover with thick strips, and arrange the medium and small leaves at the top, so as not to block the inner mouth of the pot with the crushed powder and prevent the tea soup from flowing out smoothly.Then brew tea with boiling water, pour in slowly along the edge to form a circle, so as not to break through the "tea gall".When flushing, make the tea leaves in the pot roll.When the water has just flowed over the tea leaves, pour it out immediately, which is called "tea washing", that is, to wash away the dust and dirt on the surface of the tea leaves, so that the true taste of the tea can be fully reflected.After the tea is washed, immediately rush into the second water, the water volume is about 90%.After closing the lid, pour boiling water over the body of the pot. At this time, the accumulated water in the tea tray rises to the middle of the pot. This is called "internal and external attack".After doing this one by one, the exquisite and true taste of the tea can be soaked out. The time of making tea is also very important, generally about 2 to 3 minutes.If the time of steeping is too short, the aroma of the tea leaves will not come out; if the time of steeping is too long, it is afraid that the tea will become old and affect the umami taste of the tea. The method of pouring tea is also very particular. The traditional method is: use the thumb, food, and middle three fingers to operate.Lightly press the bead on the top cover of the pot with the index finger, and clamp the rear handle of the pot with the middle and thumb fingers.When starting to pour tea, the tea soup is poured into several cups in turn, half of each cup is poured first, and the cycle is repeated, gradually adding to 80%, so that the smell of each cup of tea soup is even, this is called "Guan Gong Touring the City".If the tea in the pot is poured out, it is just right.When serving tea, the edge should be poured first, then concentrated in the middle of the cup, and the thickest part of the bottom of the pot should be evenly poured into each cup, and finally dripped, which is called "Han Xin ordered soldiers".With this method of brewing, the tea soup is very thick, and the pot is often full of tea leaves, but the amount of soup is very small. When poured into the Ruochen Ou, which can only hold a small amount of tea soup, there are only one or two sips, but when you sip carefully, the mouth is full of fragrance and full of flavor. , You can really appreciate the beauty of tea. When brewing and pouring tea, there is also a saying of "high rush and low action", that is, when boiling water is poured into the tank, it should be poured from a high place to make the tea leaves fragrant; while tea should be poured low to avoid losing the aroma. taste.Once the tea is poured into the cup, it should be sipped while it is hot. This is called "drinking burnt tea". When pouring tea for the second time, scald the cup with boiling water first.There is also a lot of knowledge in it: use your middle finger to hold the bottom of the cup, press your thumb on the edge of the cup, put it into another cup full of boiling water, let it stand on its side, and flick your thumb, the whole cup will fly into a flower. Very nice.After the cup is hot, the tea can be poured. Drinking oolong tea is also unique.First, hold the teacup and slowly move it from the nose to the mouth, smell the aroma while it is hot, and then taste it.Especially drinking Wuyi rock tea and Tieguanyin, both have a strong floral aroma.When smelling the fragrance, it is not necessary to put the teacup in the nose for a long time, but to slowly go from far to near, and from near to far, back and forth three or four times, suddenly feel bursts of tea fragrance coming to the nostrils, drink slowly, the tea The aroma and taste are unspeakable, reaching the best level. There are also three taboos in drinking oolong tea: one is not to drink on an empty stomach, otherwise you will feel hungry, even dizzy, and feel like vomiting. People say this is "tea drunk".The second is not to drink before going to bed, otherwise it will make it difficult for people to fall asleep.The third is that cold tea cannot be drunk. Oolong tea is cold after cold, which is not good for the stomach.These three taboos are especially important for those who drink oolong tea for the first time.Because oolong tea contains more tea polyphenols and caffeine than other teas, these three taboos are summed up based on the experience of folk tea drinking. During the holidays, the whole family gathers together. After eating, in order to relieve the fat, they make oolong tea. Everyone sits around and sips carefully, which not only helps digestion, but also adds endless fun. Today, drinking oolong tea is not only popular in southern Fujian and Chaoshan in eastern Guangdong, but also popular in Guangzhou, Hainan and even Lingnan.Many overseas Chinese in Nanyang, Hong Kong and Macao regard drinking Gongfu tea as a symbol of nostalgia for their hometown.The little oolong tea has indeed served as a link between overseas travelers and the motherland. (Luo Jinwen) Scented tea is a poetic tea, a tea art that combines the beauty of tea and the fragrance of flowers.In scented tea, the taste of tea leaves is the taste of tea soup, and the fragrance of flowers is the spirit of tea soup.The taste of tea and the fragrance of flowers are subtly blended together to form the palatable and fragrant flavor of the tea soup. The two are perfectly matched and complement each other. When drinking scented tea, first look at the texture of the tea embryo. Good tea will have a palatable tea flavor. Only a certain amount of flowers will be scented, coupled with exquisite processing technology, to have a good aroma.The aroma contained in scented tea is very important, it has three quality indicators: The first is the freshness of the aroma—that is, the freshness and flexibility of the aroma, which is opposed to the stale and dull aroma; the second is the concentration of the aroma—that is, the depth of the aroma, which is opposite to the lightness and shallowness of the aroma. Flowers, the fragrance of flowers can be fully inhaled into the tea body, and the aroma is relatively strong and durable; the third is the purity of the aroma—that is, the aroma is pure and not miscellaneous, and the degree to which it blends harmoniously with the tea flavor, as opposed to miscellaneous, strange, and dull aromas. The quality of this aroma can only be distinguished carefully by tea judges and tea drinkers who have accumulated long-term tasting experience. This is the art of tea evaluation. To drink scented tea, first appreciate the appearance of scented tea, take a cup of tea, put it on a clean and tasteless white paper, smell the aroma of scented tea, and check the quality of tea germ (baked green, fried green, sun-dried green and tenderness, place of origin, etc.), to obtain a preliminary impression of the quality of scented tea.Jasmine tea has some conspicuous dried flowers, which are for "icing on the cake". The artificially added dried jasmine has no aroma, so the aroma and quality of scented tea cannot be judged by the number of dried flowers.However, the color of the flower stem is white and bright, which is a sign of a good flower stem, and the dark brown and dark brown is a sign of poor quality of the flower stem. The method of brewing scented tea is based on the principle of maintaining the aroma from loss and showing the beauty of the tea germ.For brewing scented tea with particularly delicate tea embryos, such as super-high-end famous teas such as Jasmine Maofeng, Jasmine Yinhao, and Jasmine Dongfeng Tea, because the tea embryo itself has artistic appreciation value, it is advisable to use a transparent glass teacup. Put the cup in the tea tray, put two or three grams of scented tea into the cup, use the first boiled water to cool it down to about 90°C and brew it, then cover the cup to prevent the aroma from being lost; hold the tea tray in your hand to the light, and observe through the glass wall The fluttering, ups and downs of tea in the water, and the changing process of tea leaves slowly unfolding, restoring leaf shape, and exuding tea soup color, "a small world in a cup, the feelings of mountains, rivers, flowers and trees", can be called artistic enjoyment, and it is called "item".After brewing for 3 minutes, uncover the side of the cup cover, and smell the rising aroma in the soup. Suddenly, the fragrance comes to the nose, and the spirit is lifted. There is God".Those who are interested can also take a deep breath with the aroma and fully appreciate the pleasant aroma, which is called "nose product".When the tea soup is cool and palatable, drink it in small sips, stay in the mouth for a while, inhale through the mouth and exhale through the nose, make the tea soup flow back and forth on the tongue surface once or twice, fully contact with the taste buds, and taste the tea flavor and soup Swallow it after the medium aroma, if it takes one or two times, you can taste the real fragrance of the precious scented tea.This taste is intoxicating, just as Fan Zhongyan of the Song Dynasty said in the tea song, "the taste of tea is light and sour", and "the fragrance of tea is Bolanzang".Comprehensively appreciate the unique tea taste and fragrance of scented tea, which is called "mouth product".There is a folk saying that "one sip is for drinking, three sips are for taste", and the taste can only be tasted by sipping carefully. After boiling the tea, add boiling water when one-third of the soup is left, and then boil it for the second time.If you drink it three times, the taste of the tea is already weak, so don't continue to drink.After sniffing and tasting the three tea soups, and comprehensively appreciating the palatability of the tea and the freshness, concentration, and purity of the aroma, the one with the three aromas is "full fragrance", and the one with the best tea shape, taste, and aroma is the tea. Scented tea of ​​high quality, famous and rare. Brew and drink general mid-range scented tea, do not emphasize the appearance of the tea embryo shape, you can use a pure white porcelain cover cup, brew 100 ℃ boiling water and cover the cup cover, smell the aroma and taste the tea after 5 minutes.This kind of scented tea has a fragrant aroma and a mellow tea taste. It has a tea flavor when it is opened three times, and it is resistant to brewing. Brew and drink medium and low-grade scented tea, or scented tea powder, which is called "Gaomo" in the north, and white porcelain teapots are generally used. Because there is more water in the pot, the heat preservation is better than the cup, which is conducive to fully brewing the tea flavor. Depending on the size of the teapot, the number of people drinking tea, and the strength of the taste, take an appropriate amount of tea into the pot, pour it into the pot with initial boiling water at 100°C, cover the pot, wait for 5 minutes, and then pour it into a teacup for drinking.This method of brewing and drinking together is convenient and hygienic on the one hand, and on the other hand, it is a family reunion, or three or five relatives and friends meet, sit around and taste tea, and talk about family affairs with each other, which is more harmonious and adds to the atmosphere of unity, friendship and harmony. Brewing and drinking scented tea in Sichuan teahouses has local characteristics. The tea set adopts a set of three pieces (tea bowl, tea cover, and saucer). It can cover up the aroma of tea soup, and can also be used to stir the floating tea leaves and dried flowers in the bowl, so as not to drink them into the mouth. The saucer (also called tea boat) is used to hold the tea bowl, so that the hands will not be hot when drinking tea.While sipping scented tea, while setting up the "Dragon Gate Array", you are leisurely and content. Most people in our country like to drink scented tea, especially in the three north regions: people in North China, Northeast China, and Northwest provinces, scented tea is an essential drink.Scented tea from the south is transported to the north, where the aroma is more intense in the dry and low temperature climate.The winter in the north is long, the sky is cold, the flowers and trees are sparse, and drinking a cup of scented tea while warming up indoors can add fragrance to the room, as if the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming, and it is refreshing. There are also people who like to drink safflower tea, which is usually rose black tea. Its flower color and fragrance are similar to black tea. . Brewing and drinking oolong tea is generally the same as making oolong tea, that is, fill a small purple sand teapot with tea leaves, brew with boiling water, cover it, then pour boiling water on the outside of the pot, increase the temperature of the pot, and promote the tea to juice. After 5 minutes, pour Put it into a small wine cup-style teacup, like drinking "Moutai" Similarly, take a small sip to appreciate the oolong tea and the aroma of flowers, and suddenly feel that the aroma of flowers complements the taste of tea, and the taste of tea shows the fragrance of flowers. (Wang Yufeng) The drinking of squeezed tea still uses the ancient traditional tea drinking method in my country.According to the "Guang Ya" by Wei Zhangyi of the Three Kingdoms: "Tea is picked in Jingba to make cakes, and rice paste is used to make them." At that time, the drinking method of cake tea was: "If you drink it first, burn it to make the color red, smash it into porcelain, and pour it with soup."In the Tang Dynasty, according to Lu Yu's "Tea Classics", although at that time tea "drinks were divided into coarse tea, loose tea, fine tea, and cake tea".However, when drinking, rough tea should be ground first, loose tea should be dry-fried first, powdered tea should be baked first, and cake tea should be crushed first, then put into a bottle and boiled with boiling water before drinking.As for the seasoning, there are more than those in the Three Kingdoms period, and red dates and mint are also used.Only after the Song Dynasty, in most parts of my country, pressed tea such as cake tea and group tea has been replaced by loose tea, and the drinking method of tea has also changed from brewing to cooking.In order to pursue the "true taste" of tea, people have gradually replaced the original habit of "mixed drinking" with the style of "clear drinking", which has brought about a major change in the way of drinking tea. However, for more than a thousand years, this ancient method of drinking tea is still loved by the brothers and ethnic groups in the border areas of our country.This traditional custom of drinking tea is still preserved by the brother ethnic groups in the border areas of our country. It is just that the current pressed tea processing technology and drinking method have been improved and innovated. At present, most of the pressed tea produced in my country is brick tea.Because brick tea is different from loose tea, it is very compact, so it is difficult to extract the tea juice when brewing with boiling water. When drinking, brick tea must be smashed and cooked in an iron pot or aluminum pot.Moreover, sometimes during the cooking process, it is necessary to stir constantly to make the tea juice fully leached.In addition, the brothers and ethnic groups who drink pressed tea are mainly concentrated in Tibet, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia. They belong to the 151 plateau area. , This is also one of the reasons why pressed tea cannot be brewed, but cooked.It is only because of different regions, different nationalities, and different customs that the preparation methods of pressed tea are different. Tibetan compatriots are used to brewing compressed tea into butter tea for drinking, but they have different preferences for compressed tea. Lhasa likes to drink Sichuan Kangzhuan and Yunnan tight tea, while Qamdo area likes to drink Sichuan Jinjian.When they prepare buttered tea, they first mash the brick tea, boil it in a pot, filter out the tea juice, pour it into a tea barrel with butter and salt first, then insert a special stirring tool into the tea barrel, and stir continuously.使茶汁、酥油、食盐混合成白色浆汁,然后倾入茶碗,就可饮用。牧民在外出放牧时,也有的把砖茶捣碎放入一只小土陶罐内,加入清水、食油和奶子煮沸,再用竹棒不断搅拌,使之相互混合,然后倒出饮用。这种茶,藏族称其为奶茶。在平时,亦有一些藏族家庭,采用比较简单的饮用方法,只是将砖茶捣碎,放上清水,加些盐巴,而后煮沸10多分钟,再慢慢搅拌几下,待茶汁充分浸出后,即可倒入茶碗饮用。这种茶,藏族同胞称其为盐茶。不过,逢年过节,一定要调制酥油茶,美美地喝上一顿。 住在内蒙古的蒙古族兄弟,特别是那里的牧民,最爱喝紧压茶,不过,锡林格勒盟和伊克昭盟的牧民大多爱喝青砖茶,乌兰察布盟、巴颜淖尔盟的牧民以及呼和浩特一带的回民,最爱喝黑砖茶。虽然内蒙古各地喝紧压茶的方法略有不同,但大多数牧民共同的饮用方法是,先将砖茶劈开砸碎,然后抓一把放入铝茶壶内,再加上清水煮开,然后加入奶子和食盐,经少许搅拌,即成为咸奶茶,供一日早、中、晚三次251饮用。 新疆各兄弟民族,虽然大都喜喝紧压茶,但对紧压茶要求不一,以致饮用方法也不一样。维吾尔族兄弟主要饮用的是茯砖茶。不过,南疆地区的做法是将茯砖茶打碎,投入长颈铜茶壶内,再加入少许研细的桂皮、丁香、胡椒等佐料调味,尔后加上适量清水煮沸,调成香茶,与一日三顿饭共饮;北疆地区的做法是将茯砖茶打碎,投入铁锅,加清水适量,煮沸后再加入鲜奶或奶疙瘩以及少量食盐,调制成奶子茶饮用。 哈萨克族、柯尔克孜族、乌兹别克族等同胞习惯于喝米砖茶,其做法是先将米砖茶打碎,投入壶中,加入清水,在火炉上烹煮成浓茶汁,然后将浓茶汁注入茶碗,加上少许食盐和适量奶皮子,最后冲上刚烧沸的开水,使之成为咸香可口的奶茶,即可饮用。有时,他们也喝不加食盐和奶皮子而放方糖的甜茶。回族兄弟主要饮用茯砖茶,也有喜欢喝黑砖茶的。方法是将砖茶捣碎成小块,放入壶中,加入清水,煮沸3~5分钟,即可饮用。这种茶,回族兄弟称其为喝清茶。不过,也有喜欢喝奶茶的。如果是喝奶茶,那么,只要将上述已煮开的清茶,注入已煮好的牛奶中,再加些食盐后就成了。 综上所述,紧压茶的饮用方法,与其他众多的饮用方法相比,至少有三点不同:一是饮用时先要将紧压成块的茶叶打碎;二是不宜冲泡,而要用烹煮的方法,才能使茶汁浸出;三是烹煮时,大多加有佐料,采用调饮方式喝茶。 (Yao Guokun)
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