Chapter 36 Castle: Shanghai

At the end of spring and early summer, the weather in Shanghai is still scorching hot. After the 2005 Shanghai International Auto Show ended, the whole team of Sohu Auto Channel had a big carnival. They were full of passion. They had long threatened to bring me down. I made a rough estimate. Each person drinks with me for five qian, which is one catty, and drinks with me for one or two, which is two catties. I have to find a way to escape across the Huangpu River!Kaiwen from Sohu.com has already been knocked down, and Jia Xinguang from the Automobile Federation has also been knocked down. Am I just waiting to be knocked down by them alive?Thirty-six tactics in the art of drinking and drinking, all the tricks are escape!

After writing the seventh column of the auto show, I called Zhou Zexiong and said that I was in Shanghai. He said that he just had time in the afternoon and went to drink.I have never worried about drinking with Shanghainese. For example, drinking with Shanghainese is safer than entering a safe.I found an opportunity to make an internal phone call with Li Bing from Sohu.com's car channel. I pretended that I really wanted to participate in the carnival at night, and I would only rest when I got drunk, but... my friends in the Shanghai literary circle wanted me to go across the river to drink, and I guess I couldn't make it. Come back, if we don't go today, we will start again tomorrow.Li Bing was not suspicious, and agreed, and she said that if she could come back in time, she would try to get it back.She was busy with business, so she hung up the phone.One of my suspended hearts fell, don't get drunk in front of acquaintances, I believe this is a philosophy of life.

I lived in Shanghai for the longest time this time. I lived in Pudong for a full ten days. Unfortunately, these ten days were spent between the Jiuyue Hotel at No. 1388 Jinqiao Road, Pudong New Area and the Shanghai International Auto Show in the International Convention and Exhibition Center. I came and went across the river several times in a hurry, but didn't stay too long. I tidied up in a hurry and prepared to go to Minhang Xinzhuang to gather with Shanghai literary friends, cook Chinese and calligraphy, and taste authentic Shanghai cuisine.About Shanghai, everything about Shanghai, my favorite is Shanghai cuisine.When I was in the geological team, I bought the first cookbook in the history of book buying, which was "Shanghai Cuisine".I feel that Shanghai cuisine has a strong petty bourgeois flavor, which is suitable for people with narcissism complex. Here, Malantou, Sixi Roasted Bran, Xiangyou eel paste, rice amaranth, chicken feathers, yellow mud snails, pickled fresh, deep-fried Stinky tofu, etc., Shanghai cuisine is more pursuit of sweetness in taste, local cuisine is especially heavy on sauce flavor, salty and sweet, outsiders are not used to Shanghai cuisine, probably because Shanghai cuisine has a deep tendency of sweet and light sweetness, Long-term eating makes you feel tired. Chinese culture pays attention to the indifference of bitter taste, clear and long-lasting taste. The narrow flavor range of Shanghai taste effectively hinders the expansion of Shanghai cuisine to the public cuisine of the whole people. Rather, Shanghai cuisine is the self-expression of Shanghainese gentleness and refinement.

According to Mr. Jiang Liyang, a Shanghai gourmet, Shanghai cuisine is led by the two major cuisine systems of Benbang and Shanghai Style, and there are also several small cuisines. It is not enough to summarize only Benbang and Shanghai Style.Indeed, when Dong Zhujun established the Jin Jiang Hotel in the 1920s and successfully promoted Sichuan cuisine in Shanghai, the facts proved that the Shanghainese's taste is open, but they must have enough energy and new ideas to explode it.As one of the city symbols of Shanghai, Jin Jiang contains not only a cuisine, it once became the benchmark of life, it was an era of non-staple foodism, that is, in the 1960s and 1970s full of memories of suffering, countless cities in China imitated Jin Jiang At that time, Shanghai’s industrial motors were running at full capacity in restaurants or Jinjiang non-staple food shopping malls, and the “Shanghai brand” was continuously promoted to all parts of the country. Among them was candied wild salamander, which was extremely spicy. This is a rare humorous Shanghainese. Locals, even if they don’t eat chili, it does not prevent them from making chili and selling it to the whole country. This extremely spicy sweet wild pepper can still be regarded as the production of Shanghai taste.When I was growing up in adolescence, Shanghai, as a city symbol, once made me worship. The fashion elements contained in Shanghai products, as well as its glory in the early 20th century, and the driving force of new culture during the May 4th period still remain in my heart.I have arrived in Shanghai by riverboat several times, wandering the streets of this unfamiliar city, on Nanjing Road, Suzhou Bridge, and the Bund. When I came to Pudong, everything changed. There is a blank in my heart, I can't purify the new Wusu in Shanghai, it is now a new castle, I can't be sure whose paradise it is.

The taste of Shanghai is a bit sweet. From my professional perspective, the most regrettable thing is that the Shanghai brand car is gone. In 1995, I saw this car for the last time in Liuliqiao, Beijing, and it has become an eternal historical memory.There is no eternal thing in the world, but the disappearance of a city’s manufacturing logo will block the maintenance of people’s imagination of the city. Maybe, since then, I have lowered the height of Shanghai in my heart. The height of the city is soaring, Jinmao Tower and Pearl Tower.Time, everything happens in time, from the northeast industry in the last century - Shanghai industry - Pearl River Delta industry, China's industry launched several large-scale mobile battles in the second half of the 20th century, and now it has entered the Pearl River Delta, Yangtze River Delta and Bohai Sea In the era when the three major economic circles of Taiwan stand on top of each other, Shanghai in this process is ambiguous, and the changes in cultural mentality make it difficult to capture its essence.It can be considered that the influence of China in the field of culture, the elements of Shanghai have weakened sharply, and the culture of Beijing and Shanghai are fighting each other. After the culture of Shanghai style gradually left the palace, Shanghai returned to silence.The most dynamic young city with a slightly sweet taste, Shanghai, seems to be reduced to a giant city slaughtered by real estate developers. Among the dense, vast and boundless high-rise buildings, Shanghai gives me It feels like a huge man-made stone forest, a castle in the new century!It is so big that it makes one's heart palpitate, like a colony of ants lost in the stone forest. I weighed the cultural differences between Beijing and Shanghai in my heart.

Shanghai in the new industrial era has effectively promoted the German public, successfully created an era of Pan-Santanaism, and the era of GM, which represents Pudong. There is no doubt about the manufacturing energy of Shanghai, but Shanghai also suppressed it with almost fascist means. Other categories of cars enter Shanghai.I want to caress Shanghai’s spiritual wounds. Its identity as the author of public rules has been abandoned. It is culturally introverted. Industrial civilization always contains elements of aggression. It is unreasonable to prevent Chinese-style modernization from “entering the city.” There are too many things, too many.At least, in the process of public reading, Shanghai is a complete destroyer of fairness of the right of way, and Shanghai has tragically deviated from the automobile pluralistic society.

A car is an animal that drinks oil. It is a living system. I think cars and food are always closely related. This connection is not that we feast on Shanghai food at the auto show. We bring heavy northern tastes to Shanghai. The shark was stranded, and the sense of taste suffered a tragic indifference.What can be repeated in the years?Taste suffering is an irreparable pain in human history. It is not just hunger or cold.Food has ushered in a new era of human civilization, I think.Gourmet created human beings, and it is characterized by cooked food, while automobiles have brought new life to human beings, and it is characterized by mobility.The contemporary civilization of the great human beings is the automobile civilization. Stripping off the automobile and the modern civilized life form built on the basis of the automobile, what is left of human beings is food.

It can be tasted.However, how can we get there without a car? During the days of the auto show, the entire Sohu team fought hard at the auto show, leaving me sitting alone in the Jiuyue Hotel to write.My schedule is roughly like this. In the morning, I take a special car to arrive at the auto show, tour the auto show, and then take a taxi back. Apart from writing, I search for food. I find at least one delicious restaurant on Jinqiao Road in Pudong every day and drink. After being satisfied, he led a large group of people to dinner, and finally became a gourmet spy.What I am most proud of is finding a Shaoxing restaurant. I especially like the fried escargots in this restaurant. Eating fried snails in sauce and drinking the rice wine brewed by Shaoxing restaurants is really leisurely, and the life in Shanghai is alive. Country taste.However, this Shaoxing restaurant is not enough to sit the whole class of Sohu Automobile. I only took Yu Jianyue from the commentary department. Yu Jianyue is from Wenzhou.Shaoxing and Ningbo are known as the world's mildew centers. The so-called mildew is stinky food. Steamed stinky tofu with stinky amaranth stalks is known as double stinky. I tasted this dish alone, and even Yu Jianyue rejected it.

Inferring the diversified development pattern of automobiles from the diversity of tastes, I believe that when the rice-style national cars are popularized, a diverse automobile market is still established, and the values ​​of singleness and omnipotence are gradually abandoned. Different regional cultures and personal growth History determines people's different choices, and different choices are the oxygen of the market.The ending of dinosaurs ruling the earth is the disappearance of dinosaur groups. Humans have ruled the earth for a long time. These great animals have created multiculturalism on the earth.

I admit that I have always lacked a constant and precise understanding of Shanghai.Shanghai, a giant city, carries a vast and vast connotation. What impresses me the most is the hard work of the 29th Route Army and the great world created by Huang Chujiu.This year, the untimely death of Chen Yifei, a Shanghai native, cast a dark cloud on Shanghai's early spring.I have been trying to sort out the fragmented impressions of Shanghai. Unfortunately, the new Shanghai gives me the feeling of a huge stone forest!One stone forest is connected to another stone forest, and the stone forest constitutes the main theme of Shanghai architecture.When I walked into Shanghai, it was like walking into a stone forest. The car shuttled through the Stone Forest Grand Canyon, which was very heavy and squeezed. A slant of the setting sun passed through the cracks of the gorge, which could not make my mind clear.

I thought about going back to Shanghai in 10 years and revisiting the old place. The Shanghai architecture at the end of the 20th century definitely contained the absurd elements of the world economy.Like "building a building like a Shanghainese" may replace the idiom "seeing stitches".As for transportation in Shanghai, it is also the only one in the world. In addition to all kinds of human transportation machines in the sea, land and air, Shanghai also has maglev, which seems to levitate the hearts of Shanghainese.Shanghai is better governed than Beijing in terms of road traffic. However, road traffic also reflects Shanghai-style inferiority. Shanghai’s evil law of "private car license auction" has surrounded Shanghai into a Santana city. The government really has the power to restrict private cars. ?Shanghai is the logic of Santana. If the whole world follows suit, its despotism manifested in automobile marketing and urban traffic control is driving backwards in the history of the multicultural era. I took a Santana taxi to meet Zhou Zexiong and his wife, whom I have been friends with for a long time. The Santana cannot compare with the Caddy provided by the exhibition in terms of comfort. It is also a long-span crossing from Pudong New Area to Minhang District. The speed of Shanghai is high, it detours between the big stone forests in Shanghai.In Shanghai, I have two groups of online friends who communicate a lot, one is Zhou Zexiong as the moderator of Zhenming.com, and the other is Chen Cun as the moderator of Minority Vegetable Garden.When I could only choose one of the two, I sent a text message to Zhou Zexiong.Because Zhou Zexiong is a different kind in the Shanghai cultural circle, and he retains the uninhibited personality of the old Shanghai literati.Chen Cun is a tycoon in the Internet arena, and we have had long-term contacts on Tianya.com, and Chen Cun's literary contacts are really extensive.I think it would be more appropriate to meet Chen Cun at a relatively broad time in the future. His small vegetable garden is closed and full of petty bourgeoisie. Zhou Zexiong is a very meticulous person. After he asked me where I was staying, he wrote me a road map. In order to prevent the phone call from being unclear, he specially sent it in a text message.The dinner time of people in the east is different from that in the middle of the country. They will eat their dinner at four or five in the evening. This is unbelievable in Beijing. Beijing implements a nine-to-five work system, and the off-duty time is five o'clock.When I arrived at Xinzhuang, Minhang, Zhou Zexiong met me at the gate of his community. His community was like an elegant garden, and Zhou Zexiong's home was also elegant and full of study atmosphere.After sitting for a while, Wang Rong, a famous lawyer from Shanghai, arrived. He was more handsome than I imagined. The moment I saw him, I had a strange thought in my heart. It was a pity to be a lawyer with such an image. After drinking a cup of tea, I went to the gate of the community to wait for the car to go to the tavern. The taxis passed by one by one as if they had agreed not to stop.Zhou Zexiong walked up and down the side of the road, wearing leather shoes, jeans, and a jacket, in the uninhibited attire of a young university professor. It has been 8 years since he resigned from the university teaching post.Walked far away from the gate of the community, and then returned to the gate of the community. At this time, three taxis stopped in front of the gate. As usual, I took the passenger seat, and the three of them sat in the back row. We went to Heji Restaurant. box. The interior decoration of Heji Restaurant is still in the palace style, which is similar to the decoration in Meilin Pavilion on Huaihai Road. The menu was ordered by Mr. Wang Rong. I ordered a lot of famous delicacies. Kumen Shanghai old wine black label, big lobster is a formalistic dish, and there are fried dumplings. Shanghainese call Xiaolongjianbao raw fried. They eat it before drinking, maybe to cushion their stomachs.When ordering wine, Mr. Wang Rong wants to order Wuliangye. I think Shikumen Shanghai Old Wine Black Label is the best. I have drank it in hotels around Jinqiao Road. For example, there is a hotel called Ai Jinhua Yutou. I often go there alone. Get rid of a bottle, though, that's red-labeled. Sure enough, as I expected, a bottle of Shikumen Shanghai old wine with black label, 80% of it belongs to me. Because I thought I might go to Hangzhou in the next day, I didn't drink the second bottle.Mr. Wang Rong's drinking capacity can hardly be called a drinking capacity. Mr. Zhou Zexiong's drinking capacity can be called a small amount. After he drank a small amount of Shikumen Shanghai Old Wine Black Label, the long river of words flowed like the Huangpu River. The unfamiliarity of the words, this kind of close listening is what I am happy to do. Drinking with Shanghai dialects really helps to enjoy the wine.As I drank and listened, they replaced the wine with the sea and the sky. Such a temporary social division of labor is exactly what people do best.Oh, I ordered a dish of oil eel paste. This dish is very likely to arouse people's condemnation of hormones in raising eels.I clicked on the eel paste because I like it, and because it is in Jianghe On the shore of the lake and the sea, you may not order it in Beijing.The oily eel paste should be served with thin shredded fresh bamboo shoots, accompanied by crispness, and the sauce is blended with freshness.As for the black label of Shikumen Shanghai old wine, I would say it is a typical reformism. It is a rice wine reprocessed from Shaoxing rice wine according to the taste of Shanghainese. I guess it is to cut off the sour and astringent aftertaste of Shaoxing rice wine.Shaoxing rice wine, especially the top ten-year-old Huadiao, is similar to French foreign wine when it is imported, and it is really ordinary for human taste.However, because the aftertaste of Shaoxing rice wine is sour and astringent, it feels anticlimactic. If this sour and astringent aftertaste is removed, Shaoxing rice wine will be much more sunny.Just did this job, it is no longer the original Huadiao, nor is it imported foreign wine, it is Shikumen Shanghai Old Wine Black Label It fits the taste of Shanghainese, and I like it too.This is a specimen of Shanghainese reformism. I use everything in the world, but the spirit of using it is almost the spiritual core of China’s megacities. Over the years, due to the prevalence of realism , and the lack of spirit of benefiting the world has finally led to the island civilization of today's megacities in China.And Shanghai is particularly prominent in this respect. I couldn’t fully understand Shanghai in the short 10 days. What I got to know through the Shanghai New International Expo Center was not Shanghai, but the machines of multinational companies. , Shanghai does have reasons to make life exciting.Regarding Shanghai, besides the food, the night in Shanghai is especially worth seeing. The poet Gong Liu once wrote the famous "Shanghai Night Song" 50 years ago: Shanghai Night Song Public Liu Shanghai Customs.bell tower.hour and minute hands like a pair of giant shears, round and round, Shattered the day. The night hangs from the twenty-four storeys, like a curtain; Shanghai immediately opened her treasure chest, Pearls everywhere. Canyon of Lights, River of Lights, Mountain of Lights, Six million people wrote magnificent poems: The criss-cross streets are lines of poetry, Lights are punctuation. 1956.9.28 Shanghai "People's Literature" No. 11, 1956 However, in Shanghai 50 years later, there are still tall buildings and lights, streets and bridges. How many floors does the night hang down from?Shanghai is destined to be a city full of dreams.At two o'clock that day, Zhai Qin and I went to the Bund together. Zhai Qin was driving a new Volkswagen Caddy.On the roads, viaducts and streets at night, there are few vehicles passing by, but the lights are bright.Caddy gallops quietly like a nocturnal bird, and the engine vibrates like a bird's heart, which is a kind of beauty.When you arrive at the Bund, stand on the Bund at night and enjoy the cool breeze of the Huangpu River. Opposite is Pudong. The laser lights emit rotating beams, which are projected onto the Pearl Tower and the night sky.On the surface of the river, there was a steam whistle with a condensed tidal sound, and long tugs drove across the river.Jiang Ou could not be seen, and several photographers who were still reluctant to leave came up and wanted to take pictures of us, but we refused such service.I took a few photos of night scenery with a digital camera, and the night scene is a negative of Shanghai.A female beggar came to Zhai Qin from the night, and he gave her a one-yuan coin, and then "coaxed" a group of beggars from the night, chasing us and running in a hurry... After drinking, Mr. Zhou Zexiong and I went to Xieji Tea House on Baochun Road to drink tea. Mr. Wei Yingjie from the commentary department of "Oriental Morning Post" arrived later. He wrapped his right hand with a bandage and hung it around his neck like Wang Lianju.Three people tea, there must be my teacher, so I was confused, most of it was Mr. Zhou Zexiong's grand speeches. I have met few literati who are as straightforward as him, and he is already a rare animal among Shanghai literati.I thought that if the literati were unhappy with every lamp in this world, there would be no hope at all.Mr. Wei Yingjie's online name is Guyun. We met on Focus.com, and then went to People's Daily Online, Tianya, etc. We have been close friends for a long time. This is the first time we met. It seems that he is a size younger than me. I can't tell the difference difference.Heh, I used to drink many packs of Tieguanyin from him. It was a huge loss for me to drink tea from Quanzhou, Fujian to Shanghai. When drinking tea to the end, I received a text message that I will go to Hangzhou tomorrow.It was two o'clock in the middle of the night, and I hurriedly left.After leaving the teahouse, in the boundless and lonely Shanghai night, some street lamps were lazily turned on, and the street wind blew gently, a taxi came quietly. I got in the car, told the driver to go to Jiuyue Hotel on Jinqiao Road, and then He fell asleep with his head raised.When I woke up, I looked up at the direction in which the taxi continued to drive. I felt something was wrong. Looking through the roadside forest belt, there were vast and boundless fields growing vegetables on both sides.I asked the driver: Which production brigade do you want to drag me to?Is there a hotel in the field?The driver also thought it was wrong, and said: Yes, sir, there is no hotel in the field, so let's go back.Going back and entering the labyrinth of the viaduct, I was happy, and I was not angry with the driver. I advised him to find Jinqiao Road first. Of course, I will not pay according to your broken meter that never stops!Even if he found a bosom friend, the driver also thought that he should not pay according to his meter, saying that only 100 yuan would be enough. I went back to Jiuyue Hotel very happily, like a man who stole sweet potatoes and picked up new corn. There was still someone on duty in Jiuyue Hotel, and he walked in and said: You are so busy at work, every day is like a war!I knew he was referring to the Sohu reporting team, but I returned home after drinking. However, it can also be considered a job. I can at least write an article like "Drinking Shanghai" for this drinking.