Chapter 27 Qiandao Lake in the water

one Walking in the mountains beside the Fuchun River, the sky sprinkled thin and clear rain, and the cool air was blowing. On the hills, there are subtropical broad-leaved and coniferous mixed forests. above.The bamboo forest is like a huge wave rising from the mountain, the clusters of green leaves, the green waves undulating, or flying, hitting the hills and raging valleys.The rain in the south of the Yangtze River is crystal clear and soft rain, or there may be a ray of sunshine projected from the gaps in the clouds, the rain will reflect golden and silver light and shadow, and it looks like the sky is covered with gold and silver threads

.Caddy walked in the cool rain, as if entering a realistic dream.On the bus between Fuyang, Tonglu, Jiande and Hangzhou, there are colorful people in the windows, and some warm faces are inadvertently blurred by the water glass, dyeing the warm orange tones, and the children sticking on the glass The face is elongated.Under the rain cloth on the top of the bus, many luggage and goods were piled up.On both sides of the road, there are car repair shops with the sign of "inflating tires and repairing tires". There will be a rusty air compressor at the door, commonly known as an air pump.There are also some grocery stores, with authentic Fuyang bamboo shoots painted on the gables, and young women sitting lazily on the armchairs at the door of the stores. They like to wear white clothes and skirts, but their legs are not so white.At the entrance of the village, some white and yellow dogs walked around, or barked at the sky twice for no reason.The rice in the field is flat and green, like a green carpet.At a certain bend, a river branch or a large body of water suddenly appeared, with weeping willows hanging on the water bank, clusters of reeds, a tired bird perched in a dilapidated pump house, a few green lotuses in the water, and a fishing boat. And so on, there may be groups of egrets flying up and down, and two or three buffaloes strolling leisurely by the water plants.

Near Chun'an County, the water of Qiandao Lake can already be seen, the clear water, this is the shoal of Qiandao Lake, there is no strange beauty yet, the islands in the water are mounds of red soil.It seems that when talking about Qiandao Lake, I want to talk about geology here. If readers are bored, they can skip and read on.It is said that the terrestrial structure of the area from Hangzhou to Chun'an is located in the Qiantang platform fold belt of the Yangtze Huaihe platform. It was close to fully developed, but at that time magmatic activity was frequent, resulting in complicated geological structures, that is, the structural diversity of rocks and minerals in the strata.Geologists believe that the regional geological development of Hangzhou has experienced the accretion and maturity of the continental crust in the Pre-Cryetic (pre-Sinian, about 800 million years ago), the passive continental margin in the Paleozoic (about 600-250 million years ago), and the Meso- There are three stages of tectonic evolution of continental margin activities in the Cenozoic (about 250 million yuan to the present).In the Jiangnan stratigraphic area, the Proterozoic is composed of shallow metamorphic clastic rocks and volcanic rocks; the Sinian and Paleozoic are composed of marine clastic rocks and carbonate rocks; the Mesozoic and Cenozoic are composed of continental clastic rocks mixed with volcanic rocks Composition, the thickness can be 38000 meters.As mentioned above, this area is close to the Mesozoic magmatic activity zone in the Pacific Ocean, and the magmatic activity is frequent. It was formed in the Yanshanian intrusive rocks (about 129-161.8 million years ago), and the rock types are granite, granodiorite, and granite porphyry. Mainly rock, supplemented by potassium feldspar granite and rhyolite porphyry.Volcanic rocks are widely distributed in Hangzhou. The Yanshan cycle is the most intense period of volcanic activity in Hangzhou. Continental acidic and intermediate-acidic volcanic eruptions are dominant, and most of them are subalkaline calc-alkaline rhyolite-dacitic lava and pyroclastic Assemblages of rocks, most of which are distributed in faulted basins, resulting in northeast-trending tectonic volcanic basins that are separated from each other horizontally and intermittently distributed vertically.In this area, there are especially many reserves of stone coal.The above-mentioned terrestrial structure makes the mountains in the southwestern area of ​​Hangzhou, that is, the Qiandao Lake area, a group of hills prone to erosion and red soil.Qiandao Lake is an artificial lake formed by the construction of the Xin'anjiang hydropower dam under such geological conditions.This body of water covers two historic counties.The hometown of Zhu Xi, one of Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism, has become a free world for the fish family under the water.

Qiandao Lake is at the same latitude as Huangshan Mountain in Anhui Province, so a bridge is being built here to prepare for the connection to Huangshan Mountain, which is beneficial for travellers.The current transportation is to take a shuttle boat between Qiandao Lake and Shendu, but you can also enjoy the lake and water.And Zhejiang is this river. The upper reaches are called Xin'an River, the middle reaches are called Fuchun River, and the lower reaches are called Qiantang River. In "Shuowen", the word "Zhe" is used to refer to Zhejiang.Zhejiang is also called Jiang and Qujiang, but it is not very straight.The whole area of ​​Zhejiang is within the territory, from Hangzhou Bay to the sea. There are two other important water systems in Zhejiang, namely, Huangpu River, which originates from Tianmu Mountain in Anji and flows into the Yangtze River in Shanghai, and Nanxi River, which originates from Longquan and passes through Yandang Mountain. The river was called Oujiang when it entered the sea in Wenzhou.Human beings are terrestrial animals that live by water, even mountain people guard mountain streams or springs.The so-called benevolent people love mountains, wise people enjoy water, mountains are absolute heights, and water is the invisible evolution of human associations.

When approaching Chun'an County, the lake beside the road is wide. There are rows of cages in the water, which are rectangular in shape. There are huts for fish guards on the water. This kind of huts are built on the water. Men row boats, and women squat in front of the door to wash vegetables. and laundry.There are also huge billboards erected on the hill beside the road, most of which are "Chun'an Big Fish Head". Chun'an Big Fish Head is the signature dish of Qiandao Lake. It looks like the fish head of Qiandao Lake is a great fish head. Chun'an County is a small city surrounded by mountains and rivers. Among the clear mountains and clear waters, I suddenly broke into a wet, remote and unperceived small city with mountains and rivers. I felt an elegant feeling in my heart. There are so many bright umbrellas in full bloom. Like the fresh mushrooms in the water towns of the southern country, they are marching away, and there are faint singing voices flying over the city.However, I couldn't help but think of Chun'an Big Fish Head.

After staying in a resort near the lake, I went to the street. It was almost dusk, the sky was sunny after the rain, and a slanting sun shone on Chun’an. White pigeons whizzed past the red roof, and the flower beds facing the street were full of gorgeous flowers. This adds a gaudy.There are few pedestrians on the street, and some leisure houses facing the street are illuminated with pink and ambiguous lights.On the hills beside the city, green pine forests and white mist float.Suddenly, I felt in my heart that I was somewhat familiar with this small town. It seemed that I was destined to come to such a small town and rest in this small town, and I should meet an oil painter. The red and pine green buildings under the sunset, It has a very strong oil painting effect.

When the street lights are on, go to the local restaurant for a drink.The restaurants in Chun'an also don't prepare recipes, so they go to the kitchen to order, but here they only have raw materials, not semi-finished products.When ordering the big fish head in Chun'an, I was suddenly shaken, because in a pool, I suddenly found a new fish, which I had never tasted before. The female boss said that it was called bamboo fish.When Chun'an speaks chanting bamboo, it sounds like "Zhu", but this is "Zhu Yu", she said so.I just said, let's bring two catties of bamboo fish.The cuteness of this bamboo fish is that it has a straight tail, a foot long, shaped like the hands of a clock, its body is as smooth as bamboo, with black spots like mottled bamboo, its eyes are black and bright, and there is a bright circle around the eyes. In the pool with pebbles, they are arranged in a disorderly manner, and some of them are scattered in the pool.

bamboo leaves.This is a fish species unique to Qiandao Lake, and it is said to be a wild fish.After ordering the bamboo fish, I ordered a few dishes such as stone clothes, bamboo shoots, pork ribs, tofu, etc. I thought, leave the big fish head in Chun'an behind, or go to the islands of Qiandao Lake to drink and prepare for a trip to Qiandao Lake suspense. The bamboo fish is dry roasted, probably with a little ginger and salt, and I specifically told you not to put MSG. After the dishes are ready, you can drink cold beer. West Lake beer is also popular here.I only stared at the bamboo fish. Of course, I also like Shiyi and bamboo shoots. This is the first time I have tasted Shiyi. It is a kind of fungus plant that grows on the rocks of Chun’an Mountain. It is like lichen. It is thin but tough. crisp.Of course, there is nothing to say about bamboo shoots. Zhejiang is a major bamboo-producing province. Bamboo from Anji, Taizhou and Pingyang are well-known all over the world. However, Zhejiang people like small bamboo shoots that are as thick as their thumbs. , I don't really like the bamboo shoots in Shanghai, Chun'an here is made into bamboo shoots.

Looking at the bamboo fish, the hustle and bustle of the world escapes from the heart. I want to say that when people encounter a novel dish, they will feel heartless, and the sound of clear water in the mountains on Qiandao Lake seems to be heard in their ears.How many dreams are there, vaguely lingering in the mountain stream, the leisurely pool, clear pebbles, green moss, lush grass by the stream, azalea and fern, and honeysuckle climbing.I think everyone has a mountain stream in their heart, the silvery white waterfall, the screen hanging on Bishan, the long time is like a song.I thought that the people of Chun'an in the small town were also a group of wanderers, their homes had already been submerged in the flood waters of Qiandao Lake, and they had become an aquarium world.The people of Chun'an, who are really homesick, look at the big water, and look back at the figure of their ancestors wading or climbing mountains through the vast expanse of blue waves.The bamboo fish is really jade-clean and ice-clear, without any fishy smell. It is free from the lingering earthy smell. Its meat is delicate and sweet, like a fairy in a spring.Subtle taste, sometimes with the vulgarity of beer foam, is this my secular life?

two There are two main types of boats to go to the Qiandao Lake wharf in the morning. One is the shuttle boat to the depth of Anhui. The beauty of taking it is that you can go through Qiandao Lake and reach Anhui. You can see the whole picture of Qiandao Lake, but you can’t. Get off the boat; one is to take a day trip to the five islands by boat. You can't see the whole picture of Qiandao Lake, but you can go around the five islands of Qiandao Lake, so I chose the latter.Standing on the island of Qiandao Lake and waving your hands, you will have the experience of king's landing on the fairy island of the famous lake.

The first super-huge cruise ship was abandoned. It was called the Earl, and it had a luxurious banquet hall and Internet access.I think that the food on board should be kept simple, because all the restaurants on the ship are based on the principle of slaughtering people. It is still unacceptable to pay for a ticket to board the ship to be slaughtered.Besides, Internet cafes in Chun'an County cost 2 yuan an hour, when can't you use it, but if you want to go online while viewing the scenery, it's better to stay in Beijing and get broadband.Don't go on the earl, let the earls go on it.We boarded a medium-sized ship called Gao Yu, and when we set sail, suddenly the wind was sharp and the sky was low, the waves were choppy, and the water beat against the side of the ship, making us feel chilly.Probably the climate of the scenic area does not play cards according to common sense. The so-called strange scenery, different colors, and different interests, in short, the climate is to create a mood for people. The vast water surface of Qiandao Lake seems to have liberated the narrow mind of people passing through the valley at once. The misty rain is hazy, the waves are high and the waves are fast, the water is blue, white and gray, and the islands in the distance are covered in clouds and mist.The ship set sail, swaying with the waves, with a leisurely feeling of drifting. After sitting in the cabin for a while, I went to the deck and stood on the side of the ship facing the wind. This kind of viewing posture is most suitable for me at this time. State of mind, people have to go through wind and rain, but the waves of the lake are not as smooth as the uneven waves of the Pacific Ocean.As long as there is a bottle of Nongfu Spring taken from Qiandao Lake, it can be regarded as drifting on Nongfu Spring.Zooming in on the slight waves in the small lake, I was on the fast ship Zhiyuan, the warehouse was full of wind and rain, the warehouse was full of wind and rain!This is more or less picking up some of Lermontov's remaining mood, longing for the sea, and going to swim in the lake.There are some small feelings that gradually arise. When the rain comes, all the tourists return to the warehouse, but I stand against the rain and let the wind and rain beat me.The vision is a bit blurred. The islands are actually the top of the sunken mountain. Some are rust-red and barren of grass, and some are full of pine trees, showing a green island in the mist and rain. The boat plowed up two lines of clear waves. Thinking about it, you might as well recite some sentences, not to mention being a poet. As a poet, I have already died in the secular world. I just want to write some travel notes, write some food articles, chat To earn a living.The lake is wide and the clouds are close to the water, and the islands are full of smoke. It is an excellent way to express the journey of travel with ancient poetry.The sky is full of freehand clouds, sometimes rolling tens of thousands of hectares of fluff, sometimes running radially, where the clouds are thin, the sun casts white light, reflecting a piece of water that is white and bright, and the rest of the water is a dark gray-blue.Among the islands, there are fishermen's wooden boats swaying in the wind and rain, which is a living struggle of ups and downs.The wooden boats are old, and the wooden utensils in the Forbidden City are also ashamed. The big waves play with them, as if they want to crush them.However, on the tip of an island, I saw a fisherman in the mist.Hehe, who is fishing here?This lake, this water, this island, this time, it should be me in that position!Besides God, there is another idler that is me.The boat passed in front of the fisherman, but the man didn't move at all, which made me angry. Why do you fish alone in the blue waves and rain, and my boat floats by without frowning? The rain that falls longer is moderate, and it stops and stops, the clouds are white for a while, and black for a while, with misty waves and illusions, the boat sails to an unknown realm, and I think of the various forms of the island in the rain, I want to go Have a drink on the island, or just hang out on the lake island, listening to the whispers of the waves and the chirping of the lake gulls.It is to put some time in life on the island, an island is an illusion of floating, the island is in the water, and the water is in the mountains.Gradually, the first island to land is approaching. It is said to be Monkey Island. My poor monkeys must have been caught by the travel agency from deep mountains and old forests and locked up on such an island. .But after all, it is a deserted island, and there must be an owner to guard it, and the monkey has become the owner of the island, so we will go to the island and line up to accept the inspection of the monkey, these mob sailors.Sure enough, the boat was moored at the pier, and people filed down to board the island.There is a long line of people, and there are a few sparse monkeys. They jump up and down on the pine tree, or watch the crowd lined up and wave, or quickly jump over the branches to escape.It can be regarded as boarding an island in Qiandao Lake, wandering around, and accepting the inspection of monkeys on Monkey Mountain, we got off the island, boarded the boat, and sailed towards another distant island. Only the last Plum Island, give me a memory with high vision.Standing on the highest point of Plum Island and leaning on the railing, you can see the water in the mountains and the mountains in the water. There are many small islands in front of Plum Island. They are some red mounds with pine trees growing on them. They are also some weak hilltops. , the water has repelled the vegetation near the water, and what is crowded on the top is either a piece of pine or a lone pine. These small islands are dotted around, forming the landscape of mountains in Qiandao Lake. From here, take the boat back home. three After enjoying the mountains and waters of Qiandao Lake, it is definitely time to taste the big fish head in Chun'an.The fish head is the head of bighead carp. Bighead carp is commonly known as fat head fish. The head of Chun'an bighead carp is heavy and thick, with bright and thick gelatin. There are three types of fish heads in this restaurant, 48 yuan, 68 yuan and 86 yuan. A big fish head costs little trouble, but tasting the brilliance of the Chun'an fish head requires a lot of thinking. It can be considered that the kind and simple Chun'an fish head that has never been tasted is not as good as going to Qiandao Lake without going to the island. Looking at the fish like a beauty pageant, I chose the one with the deepest performance in the water, and went to the private room, ate sunflower seeds, sipped the Chun'an Mingqian Maojian, chatted wildly in the broad lake and sky, until the big fish head in Chun'an was served on the table, and the grand The tasting begins.In a huge steaming pot, the fish head is opened in half, as if the mind is opened. The meat on the fish head is tender and sweet, hidden between the fish bones, which are gelatinous, smooth and plump.Toss chopsticks and remove the gills of the fish head, and there is a rich cloud of fish.These things are the rich ore of delicious fish head, in every aspect of fish head, treat it with taste. Just drink white wine.For fresh drinking water, baijiu is an appropriate combination. The fish head is solidified water, and baijiu is liquid fire. The fusion of water and fire creates a hot boiling state. When eating fish, it absorbs the bone glue on the fish head carefully, and drinks again. If the water is rippling, the flames are jumping, and after a while, the fish head will be wiped out.I said, food is delicious, there are phoenix wings in the sky, and fish heads under the water. There must be a spirit of robbery when eating fish heads. Chopsticks fly up and down frequently, destroying the fish heads in a posture of annihilation war. If the fish heads are kept cool, the fishy smell of the clear water will revive. It is also irreversible.The secret method of making Chun'an big fish head has not been glimpsed. I think it is steamed and then seasoned with sauce. This method is extremely respectful for a fresh fish head. We need to use steamed fish head. Boiled fish head and fried fish head are both the old-fashioned way. Of course, the soup of boiled fish head is delicious. Fried fish head is then stewed. It is a kind of meaningful cooking.I don't think these practices are strange to Chef Chun'an.However, these cooking methods, I prefer to summarize them as Cheng-Zhu Li-fa, because it may kill the nature of life in terms of Tao. Chun’an Big Fish Head is now the brand of Qiandaoyuan. When Chun’an Bamboo Fish fulfills its delicate and graceful taste, the bold and unrestrained Chun’an Big Fish Head makes its grand debut, ending the grand feast of the trip to Qiandao Lake. I eat so I am here. Ask about the thoughts of the big fish head in Chun'an, and you don't have to go to the water's edge to stare at the big water in a daze, because it has been there for thousands of years, time bends in the waves, and the water passes silently. When I leave Chun'an, I will take it with me. The memory of the big fish head.