Chapter 5 Section 5 Donglaishun: Warm up the world

In 1903, Donglaishun established a store in Jinyu Alley at the north entrance of Wangfujing Street. The founder, Ding Deshan, was born in Cangzhou, Hebei Province.Before, Ding Ziqing made a living by sending loess to various coal yards.In the Qing Dynasty, there was a dismounting stone at Donghua Gate, and it was written that "civilian officials dismounted from their sedan chairs, and military officials dismounted from their horses".Ding Ziqing invested all the money he saved from hard work, built a shed, and began to hang up the sign of "Donglaishun Congee Stall", selling cornmeal paste pancakes and millet porridge.

At that time, the royal horse farm was in charge of a eunuch named Wei Yan. He loved stretched noodles from porridge stalls, so he recognized Ding Ziqing as his godson. In 1912, a fire broke out in Dong'an Market, and the porridge shed was burned. Eunuch Wei helped Ding Ziqing to build three tile-roofed houses. Instant-boiled mutton was created by the subordinates of Kublai Khan, the emperor of the Yuan Dynasty in China. During a winter expedition, the weather was freezing and the army rations were exhausted. So he boiled a pot of boiling water, put the frozen mutton slices into the pot, and mixed them with The condiments prepared temporarily are actually delicious.After eating and winning the battle, Kublai Khan appreciated it, so he promoted it in the whole army.

Ding Ziqing paid a lot of money to hire a famous chef with superb knife skills from the Zhengyanglou restaurant outside Qianmen. He made regulations on the place of origin of the sheep, the parts of the meat used, and the knife method for the meat.It is stipulated that the cut mutton slices should be spread on a blue and white porcelain plate, and the pattern on the plate must be visible through the meat.Ding Ziqing made a revolutionary blending of condiments: mainly sesame paste and soy sauce, supplemented by fermented bean curd and chive flowers, a little shrimp oil, cooking wine, and chili oil, forming a unique flavor of salty, spicy, stewed, bad, and fresh. "Donglaishun Mutton Restaurant" has become a gourmet sanctuary for the people of the carriages and horsemen, and even dignitaries, dignitaries, literati and inkmen come here occasionally.Donglaishun changed its name to "Donglaishun Restaurant" as soon as the world warmed up.

For hundreds of years, meat selection has been one of Changsheng's secrets.Donglaishun sheep for meat are black-headed white sheep produced in Dongwuzhumuqin Banner and Xiwuzhumuqin Banner of Xilingele League in Inner Mongolia. The rams that are eunuchs from one to one and a half years old are called Jie sheep. eunuch sheep.The sheep were castrated at weaning, losing their sex characteristics and reproductive function.The meat is delicate and has no fishy smell.The meat from a sheep is limited to five parts: the upper brain, cucumber strips, mo crotch, big Sancha, and small Sancha, accounting for 35%-40% of the clean meat.

Upper brain: From the neck to the third rib from the bottom, the two muscles that wrap the spine, sliced ​​with natural marble patterns. Cucumber strip: the muscle that wraps around the femur, so named because it has a muscle that resembles a cucumber strip. Dasancha: The muscle and fat that wraps around the hip bone. Small Sancha: The part connecting the upper brain to the root of the hip bone, composed of a pole-like muscle and a mixture of lean meat and fat. Grinding the crotch: It is connected to the cucumber strips and wraps the muscles of the femur. The above-mentioned parts are tender meat with colorful slices.The black-headed white sheep comes from a non-infested area. It is inspected before and after slaughter. It is processed by a qualified A Geng in accordance with Islamic living standards.Dong Laishun used to cut mutton, and Dong Laishun set up a mat shed in the courtyard. At night, he fetched water with a bucket and poured it with a ladle. A layer of ice formed on the mat and another layer of water was poured on the mat. Slowly, an ice shed was formed. The master meat cutter Just cut the meat in the ice shed.

There are two kinds of hot-boiled mutton: penny and martial arts.Wenchi is to use chopsticks to hold small pieces of meat in the boiling hot pot and stroke them back and forth. After a few rounds, the meat will change color, put it in a small dish, use a small spoon to scoop out the seasoning from the bowl, and spread it on the cooked meat. On the entrance, it is gentle and elegant, and then drink "Xiao Er" (a small bottle of Erguotou wine is popular in Beijing, called "Xiao Er"); for Wu Chi, it is: pour the mutton slices on the plate into the hot pot, and then rinse them quickly. After rinsing, put the meat into the condiment bowl, roll up the condiment and chew, eat the mutton and also the condiment, and drink heavily.Southerners like freshly cut mutton by hand. The meat is thin and thin.

At the end of 1975, Beijing Sixth Machine Tool Factory successfully developed a mutton slicer. In 1994, in the first National Halal Cooking Competition, Donglaishun won the bronze medal for cold meat and hot dishes, and the gold medal for pasta and hand-cut mutton. Donglaishun is a hundred-year-old copper pot, and there are new ones for old shabu-shabu and new roasting. New dishes such as fried lamb tail and grilled lamb strips have been developed. There are more than 400 kinds of Halal traditional dishes, such as Beijing roast duck and pastry snacks. A flavor system that combines frying and rinsing.

In March 1998, Donglaishun restaurant was grandly opened on the fifth floor of Xindong'an.It has established 62 chain stores in China and completed trademark registration in 50 countries including the United States.