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Chapter 110 Chongqing Travel Notes

Zhu Ziqing's Prose Collection 朱自清 5202Words 2018-03-18
Chongqing Travel Notes This summer vacation, I went to Chengdu to see my family and some friends. I passed by the capital and stayed for four days.Every day is really walking east and west, almost non-stop car wheels, feet non-stop.Chongqing is really busy. I, a casual passer-by like me, can't help but feel like I'm spinning in a whirlwind on that hot day, which shows how busy it is.This is the quick beat that modern life and modern cities should have.What you see in your busy schedule is naturally limited, vague and unreal.But when I changed places and changed my horizons, I always felt fresher, so I took the opportunity to write down a little bit.

fly I flew from Kunming to Chongqing.People are always envious of the vastness of the sea and the sky, thinking that a vast expanse, boundless and boundless, must be impressive.Therefore, it is not necessarily pleasant to think that taking a sea boat or flying a plane is not necessarily pleasant.Leaving aside the pain of seasickness and airsickness, people who don’t get dizzy or when they don’t get dizzy, even if they see big things, they may not be impressive.What you see on the ocean is often a vast ocean, water ####.Of course there are waves, but the waves are too small to watch, and the waves are too big to watch—then we have to hide in the cabin.Looking at the waves on a boat is not as good as watching the waves on the shore, let alone a high place.Looking at the waves in the ocean is not as good as in the rivers and lakes. In the ocean, there is only water# just waves, which cannot show such great strength.There are shadows in the rivers and lakes, such as mountains, cities, etc., it is easy to see the energy. "Waves in the river and surging clouds" are because Wu Gorge strangles the river; "waves shake Yueyang City", there must be Yueyang City, and you have to watch it from the tower of Yueyang City.

Yes, you can watch the sunrise and sunset in the ocean, but you have to be lucky.Sunrise and sunset are only interesting if they are set off by clouds.Otherwise, a dull sun is simply a big fool!Although clouds and clouds are often used as foils, they are often indifferent and lazy, which is still boring.It has to be thick, it has to change, a pattern can emerge in the blink of an eye, and it is worth seeing.This is something that can be met but not sought after.I have only seen sunsets twice in my life, both on land and not in water.What you see in the water, be it sunrise or sunset, are just fools.If this kind of miracle is intentional, it will probably be a waste of effort.Once everyone was watching the sunrise on Hengshan Mountain, and they got up early in the morning to wait.Come out, come out, some people are jumping and shouting.At that time, there was no cloud, and the sun was shining directly, making people unable to open their eyes. I don't know what those people saw, so they were jumping and shouting.Perhaps he was hypnotizing himself.Naturally, there are also beautiful sunsets and sunrises on the ocean, which are also recorded.But you have to be lucky, and not many are lucky.

The literature admiring the sea and the art of describing the sea seem to have fewer creators in the boat and more creators on the shore.The sea is too monotonous, and a truly great writer may be able to go straight in, but generally leave the shore but can't get a shot, just like a magician leaving a prop.These literatures and arts arouse many fantasies for those who have never sailed, and they also disappoint those who have sailed.Like the sea, the sky is big and monotonous.There seems to be a lot of literature and art about the sun, moon and stars, clouds and clouds, all of which are viewed from the bottom, but not many when it comes to the whole sky.The starry sky, the night sky is a little bit, and the day sky seems to have nothing to say except for words such as "blue sky", "bright blue sky" or "gloomy sky".However, although a person who is flying for the first time does not have much literary and artistic background to help his imagination, he still has the imagination of "the sky is wide enough for birds to fly"; coupled with other people's experience, it seems that it is not just the sky when viewed from above. There is also the turbulent sea of ​​clouds, and the splendor of the flat.That's enough to figure it out.

But people who have been on a plane feel that it is nothing more than that. The sea of ​​clouds flutters and fills the upper and lower directions, which is indeed strange.But it can be seen from high mountains; it can be seen from the sea of ​​clouds, which seems to be clearer than seeing the sea of ​​clouds from the sea of ​​clouds on the plane.Su Dongpo said it well: "I don't know the true face of Lushan Mountain, but because I am in this mountain." Clouds from the plane sometimes look like piles of broken stones. Cloud, do not want to see the dead cloud, the pile of rocks on the wilderness.As for Jinxiu tiles, there probably are, but I haven't seen them yet.I only saw that the "Yangtze River, the largest water in Asia" was pitifully like a stinky ditch.The city is like a map model, and the houses are like children's toys, which is somewhat comical.I don't feel so small, but I just don't understand what I am.If you sometimes feel like a fool on a sea boat, you sometimes feel like a buffoon on an airplane.However, the plane is coming soon, and we arrived in Chongqing at 2:30, which is really "unpleasant"!

hot Although Kunming may not always be spring in all seasons, it is true that there is no so-called summer in Kunming.This year until the beginning of July, I wore a fleece robe at all times in the evening.The plane was flying in the air, and it didn't feel hot all the time. After getting off the plane and transitioning to the shore, the sun was shining, and it didn't feel too hot.It is already very hot to hear that Chongqing is in Kunming.I remember sitting in a room in Chongqing during the Mid-Autumn Festival two years ago, doing nothing and sweating. It was a rainy and sometimes sunny day.I thought that I would be sweating profusely when I got off the plane, but it took half an hour for the transition, and I was basking in the sun without sweating a single drop.Later, I found out that it had just rained two days ago, and the weather was indeed cooler, but the feeling was not as bad as I imagined, and my heart was indeed cooler.

The sliding pole walked along the muddy road along the water's edge, and it seemed that it could slide down the river at any time, but it was uphill after all.There is a long and wide slope covered with large stone slabs.There are many people coming and going, they are wearing all kinds of short clothes and shaking all kinds of fans, which is really lively.The colors of the fragments and the movements of the fragments blend into a mottled picture, as if it were done by the post-impressionists.I appreciate this painting, but I am laughing at those people, especially those fans.Those fans seemed to be shaking mechanically indifferently, like some people who were busy with nothing.At that time, there was a floor of fans between me and those people, and another floor of fans from Chongqing. Maybe I was sitting on a sliding pole, and someone sweated for me, so I felt so refreshed.

The next day, when I walked the streets, I felt different. I said goodbye to the heat in Chongqing.The fan is also bought in hand.Wearing a complete suit and waiting for a big car in the sun, when I got to the car, I was squeezed in the car. I couldn't bear it, so I had to take off my jacket, fold it and hang it on my shoulder.Once or twice I barely put on my jacket and stood in the car, my head and face were sweating, and the handkerchief could hardly be wiped off, and sweat dripped secretly from my eyebrows and the frames of my glasses.This secret dripping sweat is the most worrying, worrying that it will drip on the clothes of the ladies and ladies sitting in front of them, not the ladies and gentlemen, but gentlemen, which is enough for that.Besides, if you meet that grumpy person, you can't bear to walk around.Once in a theater in Peking, I saw that A accidentally knocked over a bowl of tea and splashed some on the bamboo cloth gown of B. A spoke nice words, but B picked up the teapot and threw it at A without saying a word. fall down.When you meet this kind of person, you are afraid that there will be a riot in the streetcars, and the noise will get hotter and hotter, and the hotter and louder, the gendarmerie will have to come forward.

Having said that, fortunately nothing went wrong, but why did he have to hang the jacket on his shoulders for nothing, or even force himself to put it on?Probably for the purpose of stretching one's hands.In the eyes of Chongqing people, this move is actually ridiculous. Their Hawaiian shorts can still be stretched, so why sweat more?There is still a difference between Chongqing people and me here.Let’s talk about the air-raid shelters. The air-raid shelters in Chongqing are really famous. People who stubbornly think that the air-raid shelters can only defend against the air, but they can also protect against heat. I see that most of the air-raid shelters along the street are open. Chairs, stools, men and women in all kinds of clothes sitting and lying in disorder.Walking in the middle of the street, seeing that lazy look, I was a little annoyed.This is of course a stubborn one, but I sweat a lot and feel irritated. I seem to feel the heat in Chongqing more than Chongqing people.

Row Basic necessities of life, why start with transportation?I am a traveler, and I write travel notes, so I naturally think that travel comes first.When I arrived in Chongqing, I had to do things and see people. If I had to sit in the house all the time, I wouldn't have come to Chongqing at all.Besides, the urban area of ​​Kunming is small and you can walk; anyway, if you live there, you can save the things you can’t finish this time for the next time. You might as well take it easy, and only occasionally go back to the rickshaw when you are very busy or very lazy. carriage or bus.You can’t do this when you come to Chongqing. The distance is long, the weather is hot, the days are few, and there are many things to do. You can’t do anything with just your legs.

What's more, the cars here are responsive and convenient, so why not take a ride? When I went to Chongqing in the past few years, it seemed that I took the slider the most, followed by the rickshaw, and then the bus.At that time, my friends in Chongqing often advised me to take a sliding pole, because Chongqing is long from east to west, with a circle of roads, and short from south to north, but there are countless layers of slopes in between.Sliding poles can climb hills, but rickshaws can only walk on the road, and often have to go around in a big circle.As for the bus, it is often crowded, and it takes a lot of effort to get on and off halfway, so I always go to the starting point and get off at the end point more often, and the number of times is naturally less.Sitting on a pole to go up and down, one foot is facing the sky, the other is head on the ground, which is a bit surprising, but it doesn't matter, the pole skater is sure.In the past, the rickshaw got off the slope of Tong Street, but there was an astonishing movement. The driver leaned back slightly, pressed his hands on the handlebars, and let the cart push instead of pulling. Sometimes it seems that you don’t touch the ground, but if you are not careful, you can’t press the handlebars, and the car will turn over. At that time, your feet really don’t touch the ground, which is dangerous enough.So later rickshaws were banned from walking on that street, and now the sliders are also restricted, and they are only allowed to ride uphill.But the bus has come a long way. This time I took the bus the most and the pole the least.There are three types of public buses in Chongqing. One is the special express bus, which only stops at a few large stations, and the price is 25 yuan. It is the same everywhere from there. Go back to the original place and sit towards the destination again; this saves time and effort compared to walking, and saves time, effort and money than hiring a car.The second is a special car, which only goes between Shangqing Temple in the government area and Duyou Street in the commercial area, and only stops at major stations, 25 yuan.The third is the bus. There are many stops. I didn’t take it this time. It seems that the price is 15 yuan. This kind of bus is relatively slow. Passengers want to go fast, so I didn’t take it.Slow because of many stops, but also because of waiting for a long time.Chongqing Automobile is very orderly now. Everyone automatically lined up in a single line and walked in one by one. When the seats were full, the ticket seller announced that there were still a few more squeezes, which meant that there were still a few "stands".At this time, those who are willing to stand can go forward, and it is better to pass the next time, but one after another is "crowded", the ticket sales are announced to stop, and they are told to wait for the next bus, then they close the door and blow the whistle.The prices at the bus stops are cheap, and the queues are always long. At the waist station, there are often not many buses at a time, so the wait is only 20 to 30 minutes, and passengers naturally cannot be so patient. Clothes When I passed Guilin in the early spring of the 27th year, I saw people wearing gray cloth uniforms all over the street. There were very few long gowns, and women only wore gray clothes and skirts.That kind of neatness, neatness, and simplicity is awe-inspiring; this is the trained public.Later, I heard that there were many people from outside, and there were more long gowns.Since the National Revolution, the Zhongshan suit has gradually become popular, and the short coat has become more and more popular, and it has become more popular after the Anti-Japanese War.In the past, I looked down on soldiers and foreigners, and I didn't want to wear short jackets. Only women wore two-piece jackets. How could a dignified man wear two-piece jackets?But the times are different, men mainly wear short clothes, and women wear short clothes instead.The number of long gowns in Guilin has increased, and the increase is probably some old gowns, which are just a reflection of the past.However, in the past two or three years, many new long gowns have appeared in various places. This is because the cheap cloth issued by the government cannot be used to make short clothes, but only long gowns.I believe that after the war, the materials are convenient, and we have to go back to short clothes, which is also a kind of modernization. People in Sichuan have suffered from the melee in the province for many years, and they hate the characters for soldiers, and they especially call them "two feet five" and "sticks", and they are listed as first-class people.We have always had the title of "Short Clothes Gang", which refers to it in general, but "two feet five" refers to it specifically, but they all look down on short clothes.Sichuan seems to place particular emphasis on long gowns. Country people often wear white cloth on their heads and straw sandals on their heads when they go to the market or market, but they wear blue cloth long gowns.It is coarse cloth, sometimes very long, and often patched in the east and west, but it is unambiguously a long gown.Maybe it has always been a land of abundance, with enough food and clothing, and then knowing etiquette and righteousness, so it pays special attention to appearance, and still has some aftertaste?However, people in the city have long been following the fashion and changing their short clothes.The short clothes were originally of the Western style, but there is no need to regret, didn't King Zhao Wuling change the short clothes to strengthen the country?Short clothes have at least some conveniences: in summer, you can walk in the street in a big way wearing a shirt and shorts, but long clothes seem to be impossible.Only Guangdong is hot, and it doesn't care about details like Sichuan, so short shirts and trousers can walk on the street.But the so-called short shirts were originally long trousers and short shirts, and the short shirts in Guangdong are very long, so it works, but it doesn't seem to match the style of shirts and shorts. But shirts and shorts seem to be casual clothes after all. I remember that there was a professor meeting at a university in Peking, and a professor came in and out wearing a shirt, and some people raised the issue of discipline.In the summer of three years ago, I saw someone wearing a shirt to a banquet in Chongqing. This was a middle-aged mid-level civil servant, and the banquet was very formal, and there was also an elderly senator in the seat.But that night was really hot, the host took off his coat and asked the guests to take off their clothes, so short shirts and shirts gathered around the round table, and everyone did the same.Guests in suits probably came with their coats on, put them on at the door, and took them off again when the host said "undress" when they entered the house, and walked away wearing them when they said goodbye.In fact, it is really superfluous, so what is the heat?It's not as simple as sitting in a shirt.However, those in middle clothes have to wear long gowns to and fro, which can only be taken off indoors.Customers in suits are cumbersome and wear jackets, but they can suffer a little crime with them, so that they will not sigh at the hearts of the world because of this injustice. Everything is kept simple in wartime, and shirts for banquets are "simplified". "Simplification" has raised the status of casual clothes, thus creating a trend of short casual clothes.First there are leather jackets, which can be seen everywhere in the streets in spring, autumn and winter (the four seasons in Kunming), with yellow, black, zippered, buttoned, bottomed and non-bottomed jackets in various styles.There is no distinction between young and middle-aged people who wear it, except for old men over sixty.People who used to wear it had more or less a "foreign" relationship, but not now. I once saw a farmer in the countryside of Kunming wearing exactly this leather jacket, although it is older.However, it is still the earliest worn by drivers, which has become an important item of driver culture.Leather jackets can go anywhere. A professor friend of mine in Kunming wears an old leather jacket to teach, give speeches, attend banquets, attend ceremonies, and attend meetings in Chongqing. It is almost a leather jacket.This professor wearing a leather jacket seems to be imitating Yanzi in wearing fox fur. He has relied on that piece of clothing for 30 years. I can’t blame anyone for whether he is fashionable or not, but it is true that leather jackets are lucky. Then there are the Hawaiian shirts that have been popular in Chongqing for at least the past two years, referred to as Hawaiian shirts, or Hawaiian clothes for short.This kind of shirt was created in Hawaii, that is, Honolulu, and it was originally a rustic style.The island of Hawaii is in the tropics. Although the translated name follows the sound, it seems to have both meanings.Hawaiian clothes are naturally only suitable for hot weather, and only suitable for places with "Hawaii", such as Chongqing in China.It seems that Xiawei clothing is popular in Chongqing only in the past one or two years.Last summer, a friend returned to Kunming from Chongqing, and said that he saw a certain head of state wearing this kind of clothes walking on the road of the villa, although at dusk, my scholar friend always felt that he didn't look very good.This year, however, I saw them all over the streets. Is this the so-called effective way? The lapel of Xiawei clothes is like the top of a suit, with double front sleeves, equal length front and back, no hem, no openings, and shorter than shirts.Except for the lapel, it is almost the same as a Chinese blouse or a small shirt.But short shirts cannot be worn on the street, and Xia Wei clothes can be walked around in Chongqing in a dignified manner.The lapel is a specific and subtle suit, not lacking in foreign flavor, as for the coolness, it is also there.Xiawei clothes are indeed more airy than shirts; they look light and refreshing.Xiawei clothes in Chongqing are colorful and colorful. It seems that white silk is mostly yellow khaki, and there are also homemade cloths.On the sidewalk, sometimes three or five pieces of Xiawei clothes passed by in succession, as if they were floating by, but they had a unique flavor, and they were scattered and scattered.Xiawei clothes seem to be more common than leather jackets in Chongqing because they are much cheaper, but I wonder if they will be as high-quality as leather jackets.When I arrived in Chengdu, at a banquet, I met a young man from Shanghai who was new to shirts and shorts, but he didn't like Xia Weiyi (he said that Shanghai also has them), saying it was rude.People in Chengdu and Chongqing probably don’t think this way, do they? Made on September 7, 1944 (Originally published in "Central Daily Weekly Supplement" in Kunming, September 10, 17, 23, and October 1, 1944)
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