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Chapter 50 Paris

Zhu Ziqing's Prose Collection 朱自清 13562Words 2018-03-18
Paris The Seine River runs through the city of Paris like a circular arc.Henan is called the left bank, and the famous Latin Quarter is here.Hebei is called the right bank, and there are two large areas on the left bank. The prosperity of Paris is all in this area; it is true to say that Paris is "the capital of flowers".The right bank is not a place where poor students go often, so a Chinese friend said that he is from the left bank and embraces the doctrine of "not crossing the river"; a strip of water separates the two kinds of people.But when it comes to art, both sides of the strait have their own successes; we might as well say that Paris as a whole is a city of art.In the past, people said that the vegetable servants in the "Six Dynasties" all had smoke and water, and everyone in Paris probably had one or two elegant bones on their bodies.You can see that in the parks and on the streets, there are water fountains and statues, museums are everywhere, and exhibitions are often held; they almost breathe art like air, and they naturally become elegant.

In the center of the right bank is the Congo square.This square is very wide, extending in all directions, surrounded by places of interest.In the middle stands the monument of the second Egyptian Ramises.The stele is a square cone, seventy-six feet high, with hieroglyphs carved on it.It moved here in 1836, and it will be a hundred years in a blink of an eye.There is a copper water fountain on the left and right, which are very large.There are some bronze statues around the pool, representing the major cities in France.One of them represents Staisburg.Since that area was ceded to Germany in 1870, the French always put some wreaths and big grass leaves on the statues every July 14, the National Day, and keep people awake all year round.This did not stop until November 1918, when the peace treaty was concluded and Steinsburg returned to France.The monument and fountain are illuminated with arc lights every Saturday night.The stele stands out from the gloom; the water looks like snow falling from the mountain.This building was originally the site of the guillotine during the French Revolution.In the "Age of Terror", Louis XVI and the Queen, as well as people from all parties and factions bowed their heads and were killed here in shifts.But now there is no trace of it.

The east of the field is the Brickyard Garden.There is also a fountain; white stone statues are lined up with clumps of green trees.If you linger here, you can linger forever, and the crowds of chariots and horses around you are almost like nothing.The garden is the so-called French style. The flowers and plants are divided into rows, each arranged in an exquisite pattern, symmetrical to each other.They are tidy and exquisite, and they are pleasing to the eye; but they are neither wild nor vigorous, like Peking bulldogs.There are the most tourists here in spring, crowded and crowded.Sometimes there are concerts, in the shade of greenery.The music is melodious, and it floats to the ears of everyone in the field with the wind.To the east is Garose Square, separated only by a narrow road.In the time of Louis XIV, it was a school yard.There is a small triumphal arch in the field, which was built by Napoleon and imitated a certain gate in Rome.Napoleon ordered the bronze statue of four horses looted from St. Mark's Church in Venice to be placed on the top of the door.But in 1814, the bronze statue finally returned to its hometown.France had to replace it with a new one, which was naturally much less shiny.

To the west of Congo Fangchang is the famous Xian Street, which leads directly to the Arc de Triomphe.It is four and a half miles long.The Arc de Triomphe is on a high terrain, and it doesn’t seem that far away from the Congo Square, so you can know it as soon as you walk.On the east half of the street, there are gardens on both sides, densely covered by green leaves in spring; the west half is really a street.The streets are very spacious.There are two rows of trees between the roads, and they run straight to the Arc de Triomphe.The Arc de Triomphe stands majestically at the end of the street, as if in the middle of the sky.The situation in the streets of famous European capitals may not be as good as here; calling it "immortal street" is not an exaggeration.There are theaters, dance halls and restaurants on the street, enough for tourists to have fun.The construction of the Arc de Triomphe started in 1806, and it was also made by Napoleon.But he didn't see it done.The gate is one hundred and sixty feet high, one hundred and sixty-four feet wide, and seventy-two feet deep, making it the largest triumphal arch in the world.On the door are engraved scenes of scenes from French battles from 1792 to 1815, all of which were made by famous hands.Among them, the scene of Burgudian Rude (Burguudian Rude, 19th century) "leaving his teacher" is so impassioned that we can still cheer us up to this day.This door has a special place: on the day of Napoleon's Zhou Ji, looking up from Xianjie, the setting sun happened to be buckled in the door circle.Under the door ring is the tomb of an unknown soldier; he is buried here, representing the one and a half million French soldiers who perished in the Great War.The tomb is flat, with words embedded on the ground; there is a commemorative fire in the center, the flame is thick and red, shaking in the wind.This fire is lit every day by members of the military regiment.You can go up to the top of the door by taking the elevator or climbing the stone ladder; the stone ladder has 273 steps.Seen from above, there are no less than twelve tree-lined roads around, all converging to the gate, just like a big wheel.

There are four avenues connecting the northeast of Congo Square, which is the most prosperous place in Paris.Almost all the big shops are in this area, and the jewelry market is also here.The display windows of each store are colorful, colorful, rare and exquisite, and both; you can guarantee that you will not be able to finish watching them in a day or two, and you will never get tired of looking at them.People on the footpath crowded together and often had to dodge to pass by.Once the light is on, it is even more difficult to walk.There are "coffee" in the east and west in the street, and there are seats along the street, a bit like the teahouses in Zhongshan Park in Beiping.The guests drink coffee or other things slowly, smoke slowly, and look at the people passing by. "Coffee" is a French thing; almost every street in Paris has it, and I'm afraid there are more of it than there.Parisians have almost become addicted to drinking coffee, just like people in southern my country fall in love with teahouses. There are often paper and pens in the "coffee", and many people write letters there; some people let the "coffee" receive letters, and they regard it as their own home.Literati and painters prefer to sit in "coffee"; what they love is unrestrained, easy to meet friends, and talk high-spirited.If you love to write letters, you can certainly write letters, and if you love to write poetry, you can also write poetry.Verlaine

(Verlalne), it is said that there are very few poems that are not written in "coffee".Sitting "coffee" also has factions.Firstly, the "coffee" is well-cooked, and secondly, the person is well-cooked.Over time, it has become a natural trend for a certain person to sit with a certain "coffee".The so-called school, of course, refers to literati and artists.It may not be boring to go to "coffee" alone once in a while, but it is lonely and frightening to go there often; this is the same as people in southern my country go to teahouses.If you are a foreigner and don't understand the language, then you don't have to go.There are three largest "coffees" in Paris, but they are all on the left bank.The names of these three "coffee" all contain the meaning of "round", and they are all places where literati and artists gather.The decoration inside is full of new school.In one of them, the lamp murals are full of cubism, and it is said that these paintings are all from the hands of famous masters.The other one is said to display the works of contemporary painters from time to time, waiting to be sold at a good price.In addition to sitting at "coffee", there is also standing at "coffee", but it is a bit like drinking counter wine in southern my country.This "coffee" is probably smaller.The counter is long, and customers gather around to eat and drink.Eating and drinking are cheaper, so that you don't have to wait on you more, and you will feel more uncomfortable eating and drinking.The people standing at "coffee" face inward, there is nothing to look at, and they probably leave after eating and drinking.But there are also people leaning on the counter with their elbows, half of their bodies turned outward, looking at and chatting freely.Parisians eat breakfast, mostly in "coffee".Generally, it is a cup of coffee, and two or three months of bud cakes are enough, not as much as the British eat.Moonbud cake is a kind of bread, crescent-bud-shaped, crispy and soft, and it tastes best when it’s hot; the French know how to bake bread, and this kind of bread is not only delicious, but also beautiful.

The Luxembourg Gardens are also on the Left Bank, named after the Luxembourg Palace.The Palace was built in the early seventeenth century and was once used as a prison and is now the House of Lords.The garden is very large.There are two large water jets inside, back to back next to each other.One is the Medici fountain, engraved with the story of Acis and Galatea.The giant Polyphamos loves Galatea.Knowing that she liked Assis, he threw a big stone over his head and killed him.Galatea couldn't bring Assis back to life, only turned him into a river.This story is used on a water fountain, but it has a far-reaching meaning.In the garden, there are rows of green trees and thick shade all over the ground. There are many white stone statues, some of which are copper.Statues in Paris are a thing of the past.At the south end of the garden, it forms a bureau of its own and is a shaded avenue.At the southernmost end, in front of the observatory, there is another water fountain. Four warriors in the center are carrying the four limit instruments high, surrounded by four pairs of galloping horses, which is very majestic.This was done by Carpeau (Carpeaus, nineteenth century).Capo and Roth are both realists, and their works are made with soft shapes and lines.

Along the river wall on the south of the Seine, there is a line of old book stalls, six or seven miles long, which is also a unique scenery on the left bank.It's a bit like the second-hand bookstall in Dong'an Market, Beiping.But the background is great.The river flows leisurely all day long, and the two ends can't be seen at a glance; the Louvre Palace on the left and the Notre-Dame Church on the right are antique.The bookstalls are dark, low-grade, and narrow; small spaces are connected or broken, but they are not as big as those in Dong'an Market.There are some broken books on the stand; the shopkeeper sits on a small stool next to him.At that time, cover the stall, lock the small iron lock and leave.These situations are also similar to Dong'an Market.

The Eiffel Tower is at the west end of Paris, on the east bank of the Seine River. It is about 1,000 feet high and is considered the tallest tower in the world.The project is difficult and huge, and the architect's name is Eiffel (Eiffel), also known as the Eiffel Tower.The whole tower is made of iron bones, like a net, with more empty spaces than solid ones, light and dexterous, and straight up, with a touch of Gexi style.The tower base covers an area of ​​17 mu and is divided into three floors.The first floor is 186 feet from the ground, the second floor is 377 feet, the third floor is 924 feet, and the top is 984 feet.There are "coffee", taverns and small stalls on the first and second floors.There are elevator steps. The elevator is divided into upper and lower compartments. One compartment carries guests who go straight up and down, and the other compartment carries guests who stay on the first floor.The top floor has to use the elevator.The stairs are often crowded.The slogan "Beware of pickpockets" was posted on the wall, and the ticket collectors kept singing, "Be careful!"On the top floor, there are only stalls selling souvenirs and some scheming.This kind of scheming is common in European playgrounds; they are small iron boxes, and each box is responsible for one thing.Put a coin in, and you can get an answer; the number of answers is printed, and the place where the pointer stops is the answer for you.Also answered by phone.For example, if you want to ask about fleeting years, you put money into the fleeting time box.This is really a kind of happy stuff.There is also a letter box on this floor; the iron tower-shaped postmark is stamped on the letter sent, so that relatives and friends can keep it as a souvenir.The tower is the best place to look from a distance, and the whole of Paris is right in front of you.But it is full of densely packed houses, I just feel overwhelmed but not confused.The tower is covered with electric lights, and there are various advertisements at night; this kind of bright makeup is worth a visit in the dark night.Across the river is the Trocadero building, directly connected by a bridge.The building was built for the Exposition of 1878.The center is circular, with a round window and a dome, and two tall minarets are arranged on the top side; the left and right wings are crescent-shaped long rooms.There are many steps below, and a large fountain under the steps is also round.There is a park in front of the building, as well as under the iron tower; it is empty and green.So the building looks majestic when viewed from a distance or near.The main hall of the building can accommodate 5,000 people.Its bigness lies in the horizontal; the bigness of the iron tower lies in the vertical.A straight line is just right.

The opera house is in the downtown area on the right bank.The door wall is of Venetian style, and it is already dark. When you get closer and take a closer look, you can see the exquisite carvings on it.There are seven doors in a row on the lower floor, and some small statues are installed between the doors.Among them, Rotter's "Dancing Group" is the most flesh and blood, emotional and powerful.Roth is a realist writer, so it is.But because it was so vivid, some people were not used to seeing it at the time; when these statues were unveiled in 1869, a religious fanatic secretly poured a bottle of ink on these statues at night.The story got around, but Rott became a faction.The stairs in the courtyard are famous for their grandeur.It is all marble, white, smooth, and wide; the railings are low-grade.Coupled with Roman-style round arches, a pair of Ionian stone pillars, and electric lamps and candles on the statues, it is really a bunch of flowers.That piece of electric light is like the sea and the moon, illuminating you as you slowly walk up the stairs.During the intermission, everyone left their seats and walked around.The rest time here is very long, and the French are happy to take advantage of this free time to walk around the theater, talk, and have a little food and drink.Most people walk in the lounge.This is a long hall with a high ceiling, and the gorgeous lights dimly fill the whole room.There are rows of French windows on one side, and several tall doors on the other; there are some slight decorations on the walls, and blankets on the floor.The room was empty, and guests came and went like a shuttle.Most of the ladies wore various evening clothes, showing their necks and shoulders. "The fragrance of clothes and the shadows on the temples", this is really delicious.The opera house is owned by the state, and it only performs classical operas, and occasionally performs ball dances (Bal#et), which are always magnificent and magnificent.

The state funeral home is on the left bank.It was originally the church of St. Genevieve in the moat of Paris; after the Great Revolution, it was changed to this after the general thought worshiped the holy rather than the great man; it was changed back twice later, and it was finally settled in 1855. .Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola, are all buried here.The courtyard is very spacious, with tall round arches and some domes, all in Roman style.There are decorative patterns and paintings on the top.The central dome is 272 feet high and can be climbed up.The walls in the courtyard are painted with historical stories of France and Paris, and there are many famous pens.Chavannes (Puvis de Chavannes, 19th century) has quite a few.Among them, "St. Neveve Overlooking the City of Paris"), it is the night of the full moon, and the saint is still facing the oil lamp alone; The city sleeps peacefully under her protection; look at her kindness, kindness and affection.Saint-Nevève was born in the village of Nanterre, twenty-four miles from Paris, in the early fifth century.When I was young, I was deeply touched by listening to Sheng Yeman's sermons.Sheng Yeman also said that she had a good foundation and encouraged her a lot.Later she went to Paris and devoted herself to the cause of relief.In the middle of the fifth century, the Huns invaded Paris, shocking the whole city.She urged the people to be calm, to rely on the gods, and she was quite inspiring.The Huns did not succeed in the end.After the war in Paris, she redoubled her efforts in relief work.She lived to be ninety years old.In his later years, he proposed to build a church for St. Peter and St. Paul in Paris.In the second year after construction started, she died.When the church was completed, she was found buried in it; besides, there were many strange legends.So the church had to be dedicated to her.This church is now the state funeral home.The gate wall of the courtyard is Greek style, under the pediment, a row of Corinthian stone pillars.Next to the courtyard, there is the hall of holy love, which is not big.It is now the place of ashes of St. Newif.The stone carved flower screen in front of the altar is extremely gorgeous, and it is something from the 16th century. There is also a nursing home for wounded soldiers on the left bank.Among them, the Bingjia Museum collects abandoned weapons and spoils of war.There was a room full of tricolor flags hanging from the roof, and diagonally inserted on the two walls, side by side.The room is very long. As soon as you enter, you can feel the bright colors of thousands of layers, reflecting each other quietly.The courtyard is vaulted, three hundred and forty feet high, and eighty-six feet in diameter. It was built in the middle of the seventeenth century, and is more beautiful and majestic than a state funeral.There was originally a church under the top, and Napoleon's tomb is here.There are wide steps outside the hall, with Doric and Corinthian stone pillars.What makes you most comfortable when you enter the door is the light in the room.It was a pale golden light from the stained-glass windows, soft as a stream of water.In the center of the hall is a round cellar, twenty feet deep and thirty-six feet in diameter, with a granite coffin in the center, surrounded by twelve statues, representing Napoleon's important military exploits; fifty-four flags are placed in six rows between the statues , is his trophy.The front of the hall is an altar; there are many niches around it, where princes and dignitaries are buried.All round arches; the ground is inlaid, and the same is true in the cellar.Napoleon died on the Ile Saint Helene, and his will wished that his ashes be placed beside the Seine, among his beloved French people.Nineteen years after his death, in 1840, this wish was fulfilled. There are two small islands in the Seine River, so small that it is not easy to feel them.The west end is called Chengzhou, and the two churches on the island are famous places in Paris.The Notre Dame Church in Zhoudong is even more impressive.The hall was completed in the twelfth century, and after many changes in the middle, it was rebuilt in the middle of the nineteenth century, and it has its current appearance.This is the best example of "decorated Gorschian" architecture.The front faces west and is divided into three floors.There are three pointed arches on the lower floor.This kind of door is very deep, and the door ring is surrounded by one edge, which becomes smaller as you look at it; there are many large and small statues carved between the edges and on the door, all of which are characters from the "Bible".The middle layer is the window, the pointed arches on both sides are carved with the statues of Adam and Eve; the round one in the center is carved with the statue of "Saint Virgin".The upper level is the railing.The top two bell towers are two hundred and twenty-seven feet high each; between the two towers, there is a sharp and thin figure showing the tip of the steeple behind it.This tower was built by Le Duc (Viel#etieDuc, nineteenth century), and it is fifty-eight feet taller than the bell tower;There is also a side door facing south, and the carvings are also very dense.Viewed from the back, the left and right rows of support walls (But#res#) look like a pair of wings, making the momentum to fly.Although there are some decorations on the wall, they are not for decoration.It turns out that the Gosi-style houses are tall and have large windows, and the strength of the walls cannot support the stone vaults, so we have to think from outside the walls.That's how the wall came about.This is the mortal wound of Gorcy; and that is why so many Gorsch buildings are easy to remember.The hall is full of high painted glass windows, gloomy, only stone pillars, pointed arches, and rib-like roofs can be seen.The hall in the middle, four rows of corridors on both sides, and thirty-seven niches around it, seem to form a world of their own.The pulpit and pipe organ in the hall are all made by famous masters.The woodcuts of animals and plants on the choir seat and priest seat are also exquisitely crafted.The sculptures and paintings in the Gosi-style church are the most numerous; many of them are drawn from the flowers and fruits where the church is located.Most of the carvings and paintings are near-real.This kind of book is half for decoration and half for teaching, so that those who cannot read can know more things, and its function is similar to that of an encyclopedia.There is a treasury in the hall, which collects historically precious things, such as golden niches and golden crosses, which are brilliant and dazzling.Napoleon was crowned here in 1804, and the robes he wore at that time are also displayed in this library.When people go up the North Bell Tower, they can see monsters carved in stone on the corner of the wall. They are ugly and scary. Looking down, they are said to be spitting water.Hugo wrote a novel "The Church of Notre-Dame de Paris", which describes the situation four hundred years ago, and some of them are still the same as they are now. The Sanctuary Hall is at the west end of the island, and it is the most beautiful of all the Gauche-style buildings in Paris.Ruskin even said that it is "the most precious Gachet school in northern Europe".In the year of 1238, King "St. Louis" heard that Emperor Constantine Baldwin bet the "Crown of Thorns" to Venetian merchants, but he was unable to redeem it. The "Crown of Thorns" had already belonged to the merchants. something like that.He wanted to take back this priceless treasure, so he imposed a "exorbitant tax" on the Jews in a whimsical way.After a year, the "Crown of Thorns" was finally brought back, along with some other treasures, such as fragments of "True Cross" and so on.His pleasure was no small matter, and he ordered an architect to build a church dedicated to these treasures;It started in 1245 and was completed in three years.The famous architect Leduc said, "This church is so complicated, with so many patterns, so neat work, and so beautiful materials, I can't imagine how it could be successful in such a short period of time." Such two shrines, Up and down, they are all resplendent and resplendent.The pointed arches of the lower hall overlap and alternate vertically and horizontally; the central arch reaches and is wide, so the place is not large but very cheerful.The statue of the "Holy Virgin" originally offered in the hall is said to have many miraculous signs.The upper hall is much taller, with fifteen painted glass windows; there is a niche along the wall under the windows, which is pitifully low.Alternately on the pillars are the statues of the twelve apostles; two of them are very ancient, and the others are imitations of recent times.Glass painting seems to be inseparable from Gauche art; the latter flourished in the thirteenth century, as did the former.The painting method is made of glass of many colors, and the joints are soldered with lead, and then clamped with iron bars.There are shades of coloring.Pale colors so make daylight soft and ethereal.But there are many dark colors, probably using dark blue as the ground, adding a little yellow white and ruby ​​red, whichever sets off the brightest.This kind of window also has the benefits of decoration and teaching; the paintings are either geometric patterns or stories of characters.There is also a "rose window", which symbolizes the "Saint Virgin"; the painting is circular, and the patterns are all separated from the center.It is said that this window is the most intimate of the rose windows, because its warm color is closer to the beholder than others.But this feeling is not shared by Orientals.This shrine has a golden steeple, built by Leduc. The Mao Delin Hall was built in modern times in the northeast of Congo Fangchang.The form imitates a Greek temple, with fifty-two Corinthian stone pillars on all sides, forming a corridor.There is a row of large niches on the left and right sides of the wall, and there are statues of saints.There are also rows of stone pillars in the same style in the hall; however, marbles of various colors are used, which are gorgeous and pleasing to the eye.The Temple of the Sacred Heart is located in the northeast of Paris. It was also built in modern times and has not yet been completed.It is also connected to Suozi Railway.The scale of the hall is extremely grand, with four domes, one large and three small, all in the style of Beizanting; another square high bell tower, the bell inside weighs 29,000 jin.The hall can accommodate 8,000 people, but it has not yet been decorated.The house is white, and so are the steps, a pure force that overwhelms people.The hall is tall and large, and it can be seen from several miles around Paris.Standing in the flat field in front of the hall, or climbing into the dome, you can also see for fifty or sixty miles.The construction of the hall was a huge project, and it cost about four million yuan just to lay the foundation. Because the soil was too loose to hold up, the foundation had to be dug all the way to the foot of the mountain.So some people say half-truthfully that even if the mountain is moved, the church will not fall down. There are so many museums in Paris, which can be regarded as the best in the world.Just this one, can teach you to linger.But you have to wander around and play with ropes to be interesting, and it is impossible to look at flowers on horseback.A tourist in a hurry is often helpless in this kind of place.The Louvre is the largest museum; this is for the whole world, not just for Paris.The Louvre Palace is in the east of Garose Square; the main building is in the shape of a zigzag, with a long strip stretching out from the south end to the west.It was originally a fortress, but later changed to a palace.After the Great Revolution, the paintings and sculptures in the palaces of various palaces were preserved here; it was naturally very smooth to change it to the Palace Museum.After the establishment of the museum, successive governments tried their best to collect good things and put them in; Napoleon "moved" a large number of paintings from various countries, which added a lot of color to the museum.The palace occupies an extremely wide area, standing in that courtyard, it has the meaning of a vast sea and sky.There are some pigeons in the yard, and they walk step by step on the ground with their heads up and chests alone, not afraid of people at all.Throw some biscuits, bread, and the like, and they'll all come to you.The house was built elegantly and solemnly, with many statues of princes on the walls.Those who are familiar with French history will definitely feel nostalgia for the past when they come here. The Louvre Palace is like a treasure mountain with so many hidden things that people don't know where to start.Paintings are the most important, but there are also sculptures, antiquities, decorative arts, etc., which are really dazzling.People who go in for the first time can't figure it out for a while, and they are often confused.Among them, there are three most popular ones.One is Leonardo da Vinci's "Mona Lisa", which was painted around 1505 and is a portrait of Mrs. Joconda.It is said that Da Wenqi has been painting this portrait for four years, because he wants that sweet smile, every time he "appears" he always asks some musicians to play and sing for her, so that she can sit happily.After the portrait was finished, he fell in love with her.Francis was the first to buy the painting, and he was not allowed to know the woman.The painting was stolen in 1911, but it was finally recovered from Italy two years later.In the middle of the 16th century, Italy has recognized this painting as an incomparable portrait masterpiece, and the author is competing with nature.The peculiarity of the painting lies in that slight smile.That smile was too erratic, too elusive, as if it was constantly changing.This is indeed a "miracle", but it is only a "miracle" of shape.Here, too, there is some idealism; Da Vinci's pen has some air of the Madonna in his mind.There are too many people talking about that smile in modern times.Poets, philosophers, there are; they all try to find some meaning.Mona Lisa thus becomes a mysterious romantic being; her smile becomes "the gaze of the Sphinx" or the "sneering sneer".This is probably something neither she nor Da Vinci could have dreamed of. ① Today's translated name is Da Vinci. The second is the statue of Milo.In 1820, a farmer on Miro Island discovered this statue and sold it to the French government for only 5,000 yuan.According to the research of modern archaeologists, this statue was built around 100 years ago.The two arms are gone; how they are safe has greatly troubled a group of archaeologists.This statue not only has a vivid shape, but also has warm flesh and blood.She is strong and clear; simple and great, simple and unsurprising.The so-called clarity is an appearance of physical and mental health, which is different from numbness.This style is quite similar to that of the sculptor Phidias, who was the supervisor of the Panthenon temple in Greece in the fifth century BC.Therefore, the French scholar S. Reinach (S. Reinach, who died recently) believed in his famous book "Apollos" (History of Art) that this statue was made in the fourth century BC.He also believed that this image was not Venus but Amphitrite; for it had no delicate, ethereal, shy, sentimental look.The third is The Statue of Victory by Samothrace.The goddess stood on the bow of the boat rushing through the waves, blowing a trumpet.But now the head and hands are gone, only the wings and body remain.This one looks like a wish.In 306 BC, Demetrius Poli orcetes defeated the navy of Ptolem y, the Egyptian general, on the island of Cyprus, so he built this building on the island of Samos. statue.The clothes are the best carved; it is a thin and soft clothes, the light and shadow are accurate, and the folds flow finely; in addition, the lower half is blown by the wind like fufu, while the upper half is tight Close to the body, it is very interesting to compare.Because the clothes are well sculpted, the strength of the muscles is shown; the body is shaking and advancing, full of victorious joy.Also, the sea breeze was blowing, and the tip of the ship was chirping, dividing the blue waves into two long white paths. The Luxembourg Museum specializes in the works of modern artists.They are either new or still alive.It's much brighter here than the Louvre.Entering the door, both sides of the wide corridor are full of statues, etc.; inside, there are mostly paintings.Among the sculptures are "Bear" and "Waterfowl" by Pompon, which are really ingenious.Peng Peng is about 70 or 80 years old now, and he goes to the zoo every day to watch the animals.He is familiar with them and loves them, so the things he makes are vivid; but the shapes are not as real as photographs, and he adds some small corners to the natural curves, which has a bit of "architectural" flavor.So we see something new.The "Bear" is about the size of the real thing and is made of stone; the "Water Fowl" is small enough to be placed on a desk and is made of copper.There are two ways to make the statue, one is to simply cut the stone, and the other is to use clay first and then pour copper.Peng Peng has been a mason since he was a child, and stones are like tofu in his hands.He is a craftsman and an artist.Animal statues flourished in France in the 19th century; zoos developed at that time, providing opportunities for artists to observe, study and trace.It is from this time that animal sketches become a branch of painting.The paintings in the courtyard are influenced by the Post-Impressionists, looking for the "local color" of the characters, which is probably a bright tone.It does not pay attention to the "volume" of the picture but pays attention to the effect of decoration.There are also those who carefully distinguish between light and shadow, but their intention is still to find color, which is different from the Impressionists who only emphasize light and shadow. There is a tennis court museum at the south corner of the Brickyard Garden, displaying modern foreign paintings and statues.On the northern corner is the Orangerie Museum, which exhibits a variety of things, including paintings by Manet (a French Impressionist painter in the ninth century) and Japanese ukiyo-e paintings.The coloring and composition of ukiyo-e had a profound influence on French painters in the second half of the nineteenth century.The Monet School of Painting is also here.He is also a giant of French Impressionism, who passed away in 1926.Impressionism flourished in the middle of the nineteenth century, when cameras were popular.This school of painters wants to catch up with the camera, so they concentrate on distinguishing light and shadow; they also want to catch up with the camera, and they have no color when taking pictures.They only use primary colors; when the paintings are viewed up close, you can see the color blocks here and there, but when you look at them from a considerable distance, you can see the full realm of light and shadow.Their views are quickly integrated, so they don't pay attention to "true color" (the inherent color of the characters, which changes with light and shadow), and they don't pay attention to details.Monet is famous for his landscapes; he is not only an Impressionist, but also a Pleinairiste.The open-air painting school opposes the paintings in the studio, because they all carry that dark shadow; there is no such shadow in the open air.There are eight of Monet's largest paintings in this painting academy, which are so big that they have to be embedded on the wall.There are only two rooms in the painting academy, and each painting is a wall, and the paintings are lotus flowers in the water.Monet was fond of using blue, and so are these paintings.The scale is large, the momentum is thick, the water in the pool is overflowing, and the random lotus is dense and dense, some of which seem to be in the shade of trees, and some of them are like in the sun.According to experts, the composition of these paintings is simply unprecedented. ① Today's translation is: Monet. The Rodin Museum is on the left bank.Rodin's things were collected here after the Great War; quite a few were completed, and some were not.There are group portraits, single portraits, and busts; there are plaster imitations.There are also drawings and plastic drafts.And the relics of Rodin.Rodin was a master engraver in the nineteenth century; or call him a naturalist, or call him a romanticist.He has the craftsmanship of a craftsman and the mind of a poet; he expresses his emotions through sculpture.The material is not common, and the technique is also not common.What ordinary people think is beautiful, he thinks it is useless; he only looks for what ordinary people think is ugly, and even borrows the position of sexual intercourse.And because of the need for full expression, it has to be exaggerated and deformed.So his things seem "strange" at first glance, not fun stuff.The carvings in the past paid attention to smoothness, which is the reason why "the tailor does not reveal the stitches"; on the contrary, the Romantic artists deliberately showed the brush strokes or knife marks, so that people can see their emotional scenes at work.So did Rodin.They also like to use the plastic method, because the clay is more random, and the convex and concave places, the large and small strips, can be seen clearly. The Cluny Museum has a large collection of Roman and medieval relics, and it is also on the left bank.The ruling palace in Roman times is here.Later, the kings of the Flan tribe also lived in this palace.In the fifteenth century, the palace was destroyed, and the monks of the Cluny Monastery rebuilt the current house as their lower house, which is a mixture of "late Goxi" and "Renaissance".There are quite a few people from the French royal family who came to Paris and lived temporarily in the museum.The house was later returned to an archaeologist.He collected quite a few antiques; after his death they were bought by the government and added up to ten thousand pieces.Paintings, sculptures, woodcuts, gold and silverware, fabrics, fine medieval furniture, porcelain, glass, you name it.The house still retains its original appearance.Getting started is like living in the world hundreds of years ago, coupled with the fragmented things on display, the nose is full of antiquity.Adjacent to this pavilion is the bathroom in the Roman era, which was originally divided into cold baths and hot baths, but now there are only some broken doors and columns (some of which were originally located elsewhere in Paris), arranged lonely.Outside the bathroom is a garden, and the grass among the trees is also scattered with ancient and medieval Parisian buildings, among which the "Saint Virgin's Gate" is the most elegant. In addition, the Paris Academy of Fine Arts (namely the Petit Palace) and the Academy of Decorative Arts are all mixed.There is a fan room in the latter, all of which are fans from the eighteenth century, which were bequeathed by a certain wife.In the 18th century, Chinese crafts were quite popular in Europe, which can also be seen.The fan is full of Western paintings, exquisitely crafted and beautiful; among hundreds of sheets, there is only one Chinese figure, but it is dull and lifeless.There is also the Guimet Museum, which collects materials on Far Eastern religions and fine arts.Most of the Buddhist paintings that Pelliot took to Dunhuang are here.There are also some small Japanese paintings.There is also a wax man museum.It is said that those wax figurines are really made, but those who have never seen those people or their photos will not feel much interest, so it is not as good as paintings and statues.不过“隧道”里阴惨惨的,人物也代表着些阴惨惨的故事,却还可看。楼上有镜宫,满是镜子,顶上与周围用各色电光照耀,宛然千门万户, 像到了万花筒里。 一九三二年春季的官“沙龙”在大宫中,顶大的院子里罗列着雕像;楼上下八十几间屋子满是画,也有些装饰美术。内行说,画像太多,真有“官”气。其中有安南阮某一幅,奖银牌;中国人一看就明白那是阮氏祖宗的影像。记得有个笑话,说一个贼混入人家厅堂偷了一幅古画,卷起夹在腋下。跨出大门,恰好碰见主人。那贼情急智生,便将画卷儿一扬,问道,“影像,要买吧?”主人自然大怒,骂了一声走进去。贼于是从容溜之乎也。那位安南阮某与此贼可谓异曲同工。大宫里,同时还有一个装饰艺术的“沙龙”,陈列的是家具, 灯,织物,建筑模型等等,大都是立体派的作风。立体派本是现代艺术的一派,意大利最盛。影响大极了,建筑,家具,布匹,织物,器皿,汽车,公路,广告,书籍装订,都有立体派的份儿。平静,干脆,是古典的精神,也是这时代重理智的表现。在这个“沙龙”里看,现代的屋子内外都俨然是些几何的图案,和从前华丽的藻饰全异。还有一个“沙龙”, 专陈列幽默画。画下多有说明。各画或描摹世态,或用大小文野等对照法,以传出那幽默的情味。有一幅题为《长褂子》,画的是夜宴前后客室中的景子:女客全穿短褂子,只有一人穿长的,大家的眼睛都盯着她那长出来的一截儿。她正在和一个男客谈话,似乎不留意。看她的或偏着身子,或偏着头,或操着手,或用手托着腮(表示惊讶),倚在丈夫的肩上,或打着看戏用的放大镜子,都是一副尴尬面孔。穿长褂子的女客在左首,左首共三个人;中央一对夫妇,右首三个女人,疏密向背都恰好;还点缀着些不在这一群里的客人。画也有不幽默的,也有太恶劣的;本来是幽默并不容易。 巴黎的坟场,东头以倍雷拉谢斯(PereLachaise)为最大,占地七百二十亩,有二里多长。中间名人的坟颇多,可是道路纵横,找起来真费劲儿。阿培拉德与哀绿绮思两坟并列,上有亭子盖着;这是重修过的。王尔德的坟本葬在别处;死后九年,也迁到此场。坟上雕着个大飞人,昂着头,直着脚,长翅膀,像是合埃及的“狮人”与亚述的翅儿牛而为一,雄伟飞动,与王尔德并不很称。这是英国当代大雕刻家爱勃司坦(Epstei n)的巨作;钱是一位倾慕王尔德的无名太太捐的。场中有巴什罗米(Bartholom e)雕的一座纪念碑,题为《致死者》。碑分上下两层,上层中间是死门,进去的两个人倒也行无所事的;两侧向门走的人群却牵牵拉拉,哭哭啼啼,跌档倒倒,不得开交似的。下层像是生者的哀伤。此外北头的蒙马特,南头的蒙巴那斯两坟场也算大。茶花女埋在蒙马特场,题曰一八二四年正月十五日生,一八四七年二月三日卒。小仲马,海涅也在那儿。蒙巴那斯场有圣白孚,莫泊桑,鲍特莱尔等;鲍特莱尔的坟与纪念碑不在一处,碑上坐着一个悲伤的女人的石像。 巴黎的夜也是老牌子。单说六个地方。非洲饭店带澡堂子,可以洗蒸气澡,听黑人浓烈的音乐;店员都穿着埃及式的衣服。三藩咖啡看“爵士舞”,小小的场子上一对对男女跟着那繁声促节直扭腰儿。最警动的是那小圆木筒儿,里面像装着豆子之类。不时地紧摇一阵子。圆屋听唱法国的古歌;一扇门背后的墙上油画着蹲着在小便的女人。红磨坊门前一架小红风车,用电灯做了轮廓线;里面看小戏与女人跳舞。这在蒙巴特区。蒙马特是流浪人的区域。十九世纪画家住在这一带的不少,画红磨坊的常有。塔巴林看女人跳舞,不穿衣服,意在显出好看的身子。里多在仙街,最大。看变戏法,听威尼斯夜曲。里多岛本是威尼斯娱乐的地方。这儿的里多特意砌了一个池子,也有一支“刚朵拉”,夜曲是男女对唱,不过意味到底有点儿两样。 巴黎的野色在波隆尼林与圣克罗园里才可看见。波隆尼林在西北角,恰好在塞因河河套中间,占地一万四千多亩,有公园,大路,小路,有两个湖,一大一小,都是长的;大湖里有两个洲,也是长的。要领略林子的好处,得闲闲地拣深僻的地儿走。圣克罗园还在西南, 本有离宫,现在毁了,剩下些喷水和林子。林子里有两条道儿很好。一条渐渐高上去,从树里两眼望不尽;一条窄而长,漏下一线天光;远望路口,不知是云是水,茫茫一大片。但真有野味的还得数枫丹白露的林子。枫丹白露在巴黎东南,一点半钟的火车。这座林子有二十七万亩,周围一百九十里。坐着小马车在里面走,幽静如远古的时代。太阳光将树叶子照得透明,却只一圈儿一点儿地洒到地上。路两旁的树有时候太茂盛了,枝叶交错成一座拱门, 低档的;远看去好像拱门那面另有一界。林子里下大雨,那一片沙缮缮缮的声音,像潮水, 会把你心上的东西冲洗个干净。林中有好几处山峡,可以试腰脚,看野花野草,看旁逸斜出,稀奇古怪的石头,像枯骨,像刺猬。亚勃雷孟峡就是其一,地方大,石头多,又是忽高忽低,走起来好。 枫丹白露宫建于十六世纪,后经重修。拿破仑一八一四年临去爱而巴岛的时候,在此告别他的诸将。这座宫与法国历史关系甚多。宫房外观不美,里面却精致,家具等等也考究。 就中侍从武官室与亨利第二厅最好看。前者的地板用嵌花的条子板;小小的一间屋,共用九百条之多。复壁板上也雕绘着繁细的花饰,炉壁上也满是花儿,挂灯也像花正开着。后者是一间长厅,其大少有。地板用了二万六千块,一色,嵌成规规矩矩的几何图案,光可照人。 厅中间两行圆拱门。门柱下截镶复壁板,上截镶油画;楣上也画得满满的。天花板极意雕饰,金光耀眼。宫外有园子,池子,但赶不上凡尔赛宫的。 凡尔赛宫在巴黎西南,算是近郊。原是路易十三的猎宫,路易十四觉得这个地方好,便大加修饰。路易十四是所谓“上帝的代表”,凡尔赛宫便是他的庙宇。那时法国贵人多一半住在宫里,伺候王上。他的侍从共一万四千人;五百人伺候他吃饭,一百个贵人伺候他起床,更多的贵人伺候他睡觉。那时法国艺术大盛,一切都成为御用的,集中在凡尔赛和巴黎两处。凡尔赛宫里装饰力求富丽奇巧,用钱无数。如金漆彩画的天花板,木刻,华美的家具,花饰,贝壳与多用错综交会的曲线纹等,用意全在教来客惊奇:这便是所谓“罗科科式”(Roc###)。宫中有镜厅,十七个大窗户,正对着十七面同样大小的镜子;厅长二百四十英尺,宽三十英尺,高四十二英尺。拱顶上和墙上画着路易十四打胜德国,荷兰, 西班牙的情形,画着他是诸国的领袖,画着他是艺术与科学的广大教主。近十几年来成为世界祸根的那和约便是一九一九年六月二十八那一天在这座厅里签的字。宫旁一座大园子,也是路易十四手里布置起来的。看不到头的两行树,有万千的气象。有湖,有花园,有喷水。 花园一畦一个花样,小松树一律修剪成圆锥形,集法国式花园之大成。喷水大约有四十多处,或铜雕,或石雕,处处都别出心裁,也是集大成。每年五月到九月,每月第一星期日, 和别的节日,都有大水法。从下午四点起,到处银花飞舞,雾气沾人,衬着那齐斩斩的树, 软茸茸的草,觉得立着看,走着看,不拘怎么看总成。海龙王喷水池,规模特别大;得等五点半钟大水法停后,让它单独来二十分钟。有时晚上大放花炮,就在这里。各色的电彩照耀着一道道喷水。花炮在喷水之间放上去,也是一道道的;同时放许多,便氤氲起一团雾。这时候电光换彩,红的忽然变蓝的,蓝的忽然变白的,真真是一眨眼。 卢梭园在爱尔莽浓镇(Ermenonvil#e),巴黎的东北;要坐一点钟火车, 走两点钟的路。这是道地乡下,来的人不多。园子空旷得很,有种荒味。大树,怒草,小湖,清风,和中国的郊野差不多,真自然得不可言。湖里有个白杨洲,种着一排白杨树,卢梭坟就在那小洲上。日内瓦的卢梭洲在仿这个;可是上海式的街市旁来那么个洲子,总有些不伦不类。 一九三一年夏天,“殖民地博览会”开在巴黎之东的万散园(Vincennes) 里。那时每日人山人海。会中建筑都仿各地的式样,充满了异域的趣味。安南庙七塔参差, 峥嵘肃穆,最为出色。这些都是用某种轻便材料造的,去年都拆了。各建筑中陈列着各处的出产,以及民俗。晚上人更多,来看灯光与喷水。每条路一种灯,都是立体派的图样。喷水有四五处,也是新图样;有一处叫“仙人球”喷水,就以仙人球做底样,野拙得好玩儿。这些自然都用电彩。还有一处水桥,河两岸各喷出十来道水,凑在一块儿,恰好是一座弧形的桥,教人想着走上一个水晶的世界去。 1933年6月30日作。 (原载1933年9月1日《中学生》第37号)
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