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Chapter 45 Switzerland

Zhu Ziqing's Prose Collection 朱自清 3872Words 2018-03-18
Switzerland Switzerland is known as the "Park of Europe".At first I thought it was just some good scenery; when I got there, I realized that there is no good scenery everywhere, and there seems to be nothing but good scenery.Most of this is due to nature, and a small part is also artificial.The Swiss seem to live off tourists, just look at how many hotels there are in a small place.They are desperately building railways to connect ships, so that everyone who loves to go to the mountains and lakes will be able to settle down;Switzerland is a country of mountains, the railways are built along the mountains, and there are very few tunnels; therefore, it is always high and low, and sometimes the image is very far away.There is also a mountain-climbing railway, which is particularly abundant here.Between the narrow double tracks, there is a special track: sometimes it is squares, sometimes it is hooks; there is a gear-like thing under the car, biting these squares step by step, these hooks, slowly Climb up and down slowly.Needless to say, this kind of railway project is extremely large; some are simply steep.

The taste of hiking in the mountains is actually better than swimming in the lake.For example, the lake water in Switzerland is light blue, and it is as flat as a mirror.When the sun was shining, the water swayed in the breeze, like the eyes of a little girl from the West.If it is cloudy or rainy, the lake will be misty and the water and sky will mix together, making people feel like they are sleeping and dreaming.There are also times when the wind is strong; at that time, the water will wrinkle fine lines, a bit like Xizi frowning.But these changing scenes can only be seen in their entirety on the shore or on the mountain, but not much can be appreciated in the lake.What's more, if the steamer goes slowly, I often feel that it is still a lake when I look at it, which is also boring.Walking in the mountains is different, sometimes you see the lake, sometimes you don't see it; the lake was originally on the left, but somehow it turned to the right.Of course, you can see mountains from the lake, and you can also see mountains from the mountains. There are many mountains in the Alps, and you will not be poor no matter how you look at it.On the mountain, you can not only see the mountain, but also the valley; the sparse and scattered houses seem to have the sound of chickens crowing and dogs barking, in the belly of the mountain, at the foot of the mountain.It is elegant to be able to linger while looking at the scenery, but it is also delightful to be dazzled by the past, and new realms emerge one after another; this is the way to go to the mountains by train.

Luzerne is located in central Switzerland, on the northwest corner of Lake Luzerne.When I got out of the station, I saw the barking lake and the screen-like green hills at a glance, and I really felt refreshed on my face.Connected to the lake is the Lauth River, which runs through the middle of Lusan. An ancient water tower on the lower part of the river was used as a lighthouse in the past; the lighthouse is called "Lucena" here, and some people guess that the name "Lucan" came from this.The tower is interestingly low; it is a perfect match for an old wooden bridge that bends and bends.This bridge has a roof, like a porch; it is divided into two sections, the one near the tower is low and narrow, and the other section suddenly becomes higher and wider, as if they are not related to each other, but it seems that there is only one bridge.Not far away is another wooden bridge, called the niche bridge, named for the shrine on it, and it is also ancient.Many pairs of pillars support the top of the bridge, and each beam under the top is nailed to both sides with a large triangular wood panel painting, which is collectively named "Death's Dancing".Each matching figure and the god of death dance in different postures, intending to express the death methods of various people in society.The paintbrush is probably not the best, but it is enough to look at hundreds of dead pictures like this.After crossing the river and going in, you can see the remains of the city wall.The wall was built along the mountain, winding like a snake; but now only sections are embedded between the houses.But the nine watchtowers are still in good condition. Like the water towers, they are polygonal cones; they have been exposed to wind, sun and rain for many years, and their colors are very dim.

Glacier Park is also on the mountain.There was a period in ancient times when the northern hemisphere was completely buried in ice and snow, and Switzerland was naturally included.The snow on the Alps never melts and piles up more and more.The bottom layer gradually freezes, and the bottom layer gradually slides down, flowing down the mountain and into the valley.This is the glacier.When the glaciers move, they melt in large quantities in summer.A torrent of water melted in this way has infinite power; a small crack in a stone can be washed into a deep pool in one summer.This is called a grinding hole.Sometimes big rocks are brought into the pool, but they can't get out, so they just follow the water there.At the beginning, there were edges and corners, and many roads were worn on the wall of the pool; as time passed, the edges and corners gradually faded away, and it became a big round ball, still spinning.This is called a millstone.Glacier Park is named after such relics.Large and small stone pools, large and small stone balls are quiet now; but the rough appearance can still teach you the power of nature tens of thousands of years ago.But it's strange that these silent and stubborn stones have tens of thousands of years of history on their backs, much older than us humans; if someone proves the past and present, who will believe it.In this way, it seems that there is some truth in the ancient poet's lament of "the stone in the stream of Lei Lei".These relics were originally half buried in the rubble and half buried in the grass, and they were not discovered by accident until the autumn of 1872.Two kinds of fossils were also found: one was clam shells, which showed that the soil at the foot of the Alps turned out to be a surging sea.The other one has a palm leaf, which shows that there is a large tropical forest here.These two periods were both before the Ice Age. Although the days were more bleak, the scene could still be pictured before our eyes. However, compared with that kind of nature, we human beings are too small.

Mount Rigi is west of Lusan, about one hour by boat.It was a cloudy day when I went, with heavy rain.The shadows of the green hills with steep cuts all around sink coldly in the water.The surface of the lake was as smooth as marble.The place where we went ashore was called Weiz Lao, a small village at the foot of the mountain, scattered scattered houses, very quiet.There is only one train up the mountain, and it is really slow. Although it is not like a snail, it is like a cow.There are mountains on one side, too close to look good.On one side is the lake and the mountains on the lake; looking down from above, the mountains seem to be inserted one by one, and the lake seems to be only a thin piece.Sometimes a big cliff rock came by outside the window, but nothing was seen; sometimes a tree came, and I had to open it through the cracks in the branches and leaves.The mountain is as quiet as the bottom, and the jingle of cowbells is often heard.Cows carry bells so that they are easy to find wherever they go.These cows really do not know the Han and Wei dynasties, and once blocked the train; the driver was helped by the people on the mountain, and they yelled for a long time before coaxing them away.But no one was in a hurry, just smiled slightly.The height of the mountain is 5,905 feet, and there is a small flat field on the top.It is said that you can see lakes and mountains around nine hundred miles away, at least nine lakes and countless peaks.But we were unlucky, the clouds thickened as we went up the mountain; at the top of the mountain, everything was wrapped in the clouds, almost including ourselves.After sitting bored in the whiteness regardless of distance for an hour, the car coming down the mountain came.

Jiaohu (Interlaken) is in the southeast of Lucan.From Lushen, you have to take the six o'clock train.The car passed through the Bruny Gorge.This gorge is the highest in Switzerland, but the most famous.The scenery along the way is really amazing.Cars always go next to one side of the foot of the mountain, the road is very narrow.There was only a mountain at first, and it belonged to Qingqiao Qiaoqiao.The more you go up, the higher and farther the mountains are, and the middle suddenly opens up, and there are valleys, which are landscape paintings that have never been seen before.Looking straight down from the car window, one often only sees clumps of tree tops, dark green everywhere, fluctuating slightly in the wind.The road seems to be quite curved, and one can never see the end of a big mountain peak; the waterfall is one on the left and the other on the right, more or less covered by the clouds on the top of the mountain, so light that there is no sound at all, and I don’t know how many turns it takes to arrive at Bruny. up.It's three thousand two hundred and ninety-six feet high, almost to the top of the canyon.From then on down the mountain, not far away is the east bank of Bolian Lake, and the north bank is Jiaohu Lake.The car goes along the lake.The sun came out, and the high mountains on the other side were full of smoke, and the lake was more than a hundred feet below our feet, shining like enamel.

Jiaohu Lake is 1,866 feet high, where Bolian Lake and Sen Lake meet.The place is very small, with only one main street; it is surrounded by the peaks of the Alps.Among them, Young Woman Peak is the most beautiful, covered with snow, high above the clouds.There are two trails north of the street.One is along the river and the other is at the foot of the mountain, both of which are quieter.At one end of the path, there are some villa-like houses arranged unevenly according to the shape of a hill.There is a plain in the south of the street, with only a few sparsely populated houses, it seems extremely empty.Looking from the window of the hotel in the morning, a piece of fresh vigor is slowly approaching from far, as if in an ancient village.The streets are full of hotels and shops; the shops only sell some souvenirs, coffee, wine and meals, etc., which are all prepared for tourists; there are also travel agencies, especially.This place is literally a tourist place, not like it belongs to the Swiss.Most of the souvenirs are carved wood, probably small gadgets; it is a kind of wood painted purple, although the carving is rough, it has strength.In front of a shop, I saw an American saying, "Your things are useless; I don't like stuff." Buy some souvenirs and consider the usefulness.This gentleman is really American.

From Jiaohu Lake, you can take a car to the Young Woman Peak, and you have to change cars twice on the way.You can change to the mountain-climbing tram in the old Taibru, which is the one with gears underneath.From here to Wangen, the scenery is the best.The car climbed up slowly, and a mountain and flatland stretched out of the window, so wide that you can't see it all at a glance.Sitting in the car, I don't know how the car climbs; but I see that there is also a steep track on the mountain over there, and there is also a car crawling on it, just like a beetle.When you arrive at Wanganerbo, you can see the glaciers, shining brightly in the sun.Then change the car at Xiaoxiadaige, and install a row of iron hooks in the middle of the track, so that they can bite more tightly with the gears under the car.This road goes straight to the front of the Young Woman Peak, and almost the whole is a tunnel; because the mountain is covered with snow, it has to be passed through the mountain belly.This road is the highest railway in Europe. It took 14 years to build, and it is considered the greatest project in modern times.

It's not much fun to walk in the tunnel, but the Aegwang station is worth seeing.The viewing gallery in front was carved out of the rock.Three tall, big and thick arch-like window openings make you feel small.It looked far away; Grindelwald at 5,904 feet was also visible.The viewing corridor of the Young Woman Peak Station is not as good as here; the first glance is full of snow mountains, with snow dripping from the eaves, and nothing else.Although at a height of 11,342 feet, it is a bit embarrassing not to let go of your eyes.But there is an elevator in the station, which can go to the top of the mountain.This is a small plateau, between Mingxi Peak and Young Woman Peak, three hundred and twenty feet long, covered with thick snow.Although there is only a weak daylight on the snow, at first glance it is so dazzling that people can't open their eyes.It's far away here.Layers of peaks are undulating, some wear snow, some don't;There are some toy-like houses dodging in the crevices of the mountain, which are said to be Jiaohu Lake.On one end of the plain was the Swiss white cross flag, rustling in the wind, quite imposing.There are avalanches on the mountain from time to time, and the sand flows down like water, which is very interesting from a distance.The snow under your feet is extremely slippery, and those who are not used to walking have to pay attention to every step.The top of Young Woman Peak is still 2,325 feet above, and you have to climb up with your own hands and feet.

When going down the mountain, I still change trains in Xiaoxiadaige, but I take another road here, passing Grindelwald to Jiaohu Lake, the road seems to be much smoother.The car walked around Mingxi Peak for quite some time.Mingxi Peak is lower than Young Woman Peak, but bigger.The young woman's peak is beautiful, and the Mingxi peak is magnificent.The car turned close to the foot of the mountain, and the steep mountain seemed to press down on the window, like a legendary giant.There are several waterfalls along the way; the stream under the waterfall is extremely fast, foaming like a boiling pot.I got on the bus at Jiaohu Lake at 9 o'clock in the morning, and it was after 5 o'clock to go back.

Spiez is a small and lovely place: facing the forest lake, it seems to be floating on the lake.The road is built along the mountain, with four or five floors, like steps.People are often not seen on the street.Staying upstairs in the hotel, someone passed by occasionally in the distance, and the voice of the voice could be heard clearly.Looking at the lake from the terrace in the evening, the twilight at the foot of the mountain is mixed with a touch of light blue, and with the lights that have just been put on by a few stars, it is really interesting.Montero (Mondtreux) fruit cocoa candy is really delicious.Geneva is like Shanghai. There is only a large lake with water spraying more than 200 feet high. There is also Rousseau Island and the old house where he was born. Now there is an antique shop, you can look at it. Made on October 17, 1932. (Originally published in "Middle School Students" No. 29 on November 1, 1932)
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