In Yuanling County, there is a four-mile road along the lower reaches of the river. There is an island in the center of the river, surrounded by high mountains, and it is called "Hezhang Island". The name is commensurate with the scene.There is a temple on the island named "Monk Island", which is also reasonable.But the local legend thinks it is "Hezhangzhou", because the river is wide and cannot be submerged when the water rises, because the island rises and falls with the river!There is a white pagoda in Hezhangzhou, and a small area was struck by lightning from the top to the root. The local people think it is strange, but it is not surprising.
The village on the south bank of the river is called Huangcaowei, and most of the people live in the orange grove.A Zhou family who planted a vegetable garden gave birth to four daughters. The youngest, the fourth sister, is called Yaomei. She is seventeen years old and has an apprenticeship in a tailor shop, but she has not yet married.The apprentice in the tailor shop saved up his wages for the whole year and gave Yaomei a pair of gold earrings. The girl wore this pair of gold earrings and picked vegetables to sell in Dongmen City every day.Because of her prosperous personality and handsome appearance, everyone in Dongmen Street knows Zhou Jiayao, who sells vegetables.
Therefore, there are more clerks in the county's government agencies, small army assistants in the security headquarters, and small and medium-sized shops, and there are more people playing in the yellow grass tail.But it doesn't work, the fat and water don't fall into the fields of outsiders, and there is a master.But "people are afraid of being famous and pigs are afraid of being strong", Yaoyao's reputation spread, and everyone who rowed on the water knew Zhou's family Yaoyao.Last year (1937) one night in the winter, four hundred armed forces suddenly came + ゴ贝汉阳振振* guns fired all night from the edge of the city. Before dawn, they could not enter the city. up.The original purpose of these people might just be to shoot overnight outside the city.One of the leaders called the head of the team, but he brought his brothers to Yaomei's house to knock on the door.After entering the house, do nothing but take this girl away.
Although the girl was startled and frightened, she said calmly, "You snatched me and my suitcase, so I can change into clothes!"
When they were taken to the mountains, the group leader asked, "Yaoyao, are you going to die or live?"
The girl thought for a while and said softly, "I'm going to die. You won't let me die."
The group leader smiled, "Then you mean to live! If you want to live, marry me and follow me.
I treat you as the wife of an official, butcher pigs and goats as a treat for you, and I will live up to you. "The girl looked at the head of the group, he was really handsome and beautiful, much better than an apprentice in a tailor shop, so she said: "People eat everywhere, so I'll go with you. "
So on the same day, two pigs, twelve sheep, and one hundred pairs of chickens and ducks were killed.The girl asked where her suitcase was, and when she took it out and opened it, it turned out that it was all prepared for dowry!A heroic beauty can be described as a happy marriage.Three days later, the head of the group sent someone to send a letter to the old Zhou couple who were growing vegetables in Huangcaowei, saying that they were father-in-law and mother-in-law, and that sister-in-law was well and there was nothing to worry about.The letter is still written in red post, the words are gorgeous and classic, and the master's handwriting.Also sent a batch of gifts at the same time!The old couple had nothing to say, but sat in a shop on Dongmen Avenue with the apprentice in the tailor shop, weeping while cutting strips of cloth to make buttons.
This can also be said to be one of the characters in Yuanling County.
As for the few senior and virtuous old gentlemen living in the city, they are just like the decent gentlemen in many counties in western Hunan. their poems.Most of the children are well-educated and work outside.Plant flowers and trees at home, keep goldfish and birds, and the family rules are also very good.However, there are many relations with the localities, as Xian Keweizhi said in his book "Charcoal Painting" that the nobles "advise non-interventionism in everything". Because of their great reputation, many irrelevant donations, irrelevant official affairs, irrelevant I am happy to be happy at home, and I don’t seek fame, so I don’t need to show anything. I am not as active as the heavy-duty women at the station, nor as active as the Zhou Jiayao sister who sells vegetables, but my life is still good. Fine, that's enough.
A hundred miles down the Yuanshui River to Yuanling is a border place named Liulincha, which is Liulincha, where gold is produced in western Hunan and the scenery is extremely beautiful.There was a person in that place in the past, which is very interesting.This person is said to have a beautiful and widowed mother who lives in Liulincha Town.There is a temple on the high mountain of the opposite river, and a young monk lives in the temple, sincerely practicing penance.Because the widow loves the monk, she will go to see the monk every day in the name of burning incense, and it has been like a day for twenty years.The monk sincerely practiced hard work and ignored it, and it will also be like a day for twenty years.After the son grew up, he slowly learned about it.After the son knew about it, he dared not persuade his mother, nor could he blame the monk, for fear that his mother would fall into deep water and drown if she was not careful because she was old and dazzled.I also saw that the temple is on a round peak, and it is really not easy to climb.Therefore, a hundred masons were specially hired to open a path on the hanging rock near the river, which was only enough to accommodate, and a hundred ironworkers were hired to make a thick and long iron chain and fix it on it as a helping tool.A stone arch bridge was built between the two mountains, which can save more than half of the way up to the temple on the top of the mountain.I still participate in these tasks when they are in progress until they are completed.After everything was done, the man went away and never came back.
This temple, this bridge, this strange artificially hewn road on the black cliff near the river, and the thick iron chain beside the road are all well preserved there for passers-by to see.Those who go up the boat must pull the boat onto the beach from this road.Everyone on board knew the story.Although there is another version of the story, it is believed that everything was repaired by the widow, for the widow... In short, this is a great project completed by an ordinary person to satisfy his certain wishes.This person is dead long ago, but he lives in the memory of all the people on the water.The legend and the local scenery are extremely harmonious, beautiful and slightly melancholy.
After 30 miles downhill from Yuanling, Yuanshui is connected with beach water, Bairong, Jiuxi, Hengshi, Qinglang... Among them, Qinglang beach is the longest, with the most stones and the most violent water flow.When going down the river, the 40-mile waterway can be completed in only 20 minutes, but sometimes it takes a whole day to go up the boat.
There is a large temple at the foot of Qinglang Beach, named Fubo Palace, dedicated to Ma Yuan, a veteran of the Han Dynasty.
When boaters come here, they must burn paper to offer sacrifices in the temple.The temple is featureless, not surprising.There are thousands of little crows with red beaks and red feet perched on the treetops in the corners of the temple. When they encounter a boat, they will fly to pick it up and send it off. , and ate it.As usual, boats going up can not patronize.Although there are a lot of boats going up and down, this little thing knows which boats are profitable and which ones are not.
The boatman said it was Ma Yuan's magic weapon, and to welcome the boat's magic weapon, according to the old rules, anyone who hurts must pay a silver crow of equal size, so no one would dare to hurt it.
Several things are human things.Inseparable from human life, but mixed with divinity and magic.The legends and myths in Xiangxi are all ancient and charming.There are many more similar to this.The mystery of Xiangxi has a lot to do with the special nature of the nation.The fantasy emotions of the "Chu" people in history must have been bred in this environment before they can grow into moving poems.If you want to save it, you also need this kind of environment.
Several piers in the Baihe River Basin
Baihe River is the famous Youshui River in history.After the Baihe River reaches Yuanling and joins the Yuanshui River, it becomes slightly turbid, which means that it comes out of mountain springs.If you go upstream, you can see the bottom of the three-foot-five-foot deep pool.The deep pool is illuminated by the daylight, and the small white stones at the bottom of the river and the patterned agate stones are all clearly visible.Fish swimming in the water come and go as if they are floating in the air.There are many high mountains on both sides of the strait, and there are many fine bamboos in the mountains that can be used to make paper. They are dark green all the year round, which is eye-catching.Most of the people near the water live among the peach and apricot blossoms. In spring, you only need to pay attention, and wherever there are peach blossoms, you can buy wine.
In summer, the dazzling purple cloth clothes and trousers are dried in the sun, which can be used as a banner of where people are.When autumn and winter come, the houses on the cliffs and by the water are all clearly visible. The walls of yellow mud and black tiles are always in such a suitable position!And it is extremely harmonious with the surrounding environment, which makes people get a very pleasant impression. (quoted)
Thirty miles up the Baihe River from Yuanling, it is named "Wusu".The legendary Dayou Cave is nearby.The cave is tall and spacious, with a myriad of atmosphere.However, compared with Qiliang Cave in Miao Township of Fenghuang, which is flat and can accommodate more than 10,000 refugees, we can know that Dayou Cave is famous because it is adjacent to Yuanling, which was civilized earlier.The most beautiful wharf with mountains, water, trees and stones in the Baihe River should be Wang Village, which is under the jurisdiction of Yongshun County and is the export place of Yongshun County goods.Jiahe is a high mountain with towering peaks, verdant bamboos and trees, and black rocks.The water is deep and clear, and the fish are as big as a man.On the huge black stones on both sides of the river bank, in the clear winter, there are still wild warblers and thrushes flying out of the bamboo stalks in the valley, resting on the stones and basking in the sun, singing melodious tunes leisurely, until a boat approaches. They calmly flew towards the forest together.There are many unknown water birds beside the water, small and light, lively and happy, or their necks are extremely red, as if tied with a colorful belt, or their tails are like fans, with strange patterns and extremely crisp songs.There is nothing to do in the daytime, Pingtan is quiet, but I can see the silent black osprey standing on the top of the side of the small fishing boat, slowly rowing upstream.The houses are built by the mountain, stacked one after another, like a pile of steamed cakes, and the scene is clear and strong.Under the influence of Qingfen, the poems of Xiang Boxiang, an old poet in this county, are also very clear and strong.
There are many beaches in Baihe River, and the five beaches of Fengtan, Citan, Raojilong, Sanmen and Tuobei are the most famous.The boatmen have two slogans: "Fengtan and Citan are not evil, and there are chicken coops around it." When going up to the two beaches, sometimes two bamboo fibers are used to pull them on both sides, and the boat is small in the river. Let your mouth break through the waves and go upstream.Because of the many twists and turns around the chicken coop, it is difficult for the boat to go down. If it accidentally hits a big rock in the river bed, it will be broken into pieces.The mountain road near Sanmen is named Baijiguan, with clouds piercing the stone walls, the trees are as big as tabletops, and the thatch is more than two feet five feet high.There are tigers and leopards in the mountains, and the roar of tigers can be heard in broad daylight.
Travel seventy miles from Sanmen River to Baojing County. (Passing Baijiguan is only about forty miles away.) Baojing is the location of one of the chieftains in the Youshui River Basin in the past.There are many caves in the Youshui River Basin, and the two caves near the river in Baojing are the most beautiful and famous.One is in Henan, about three miles away from the county seat, named Shilou Cave, next to the Changhe River, according to the cliff.Facing the river and the mountain, there are rows of old pines on the mountain, scattered and scattered, which is very natural.The scenery is clear and sparse, with the painting style of monk Jianjiang.However, there are many artificial pavements in the cave, which is not impressive.One is under the mountain in Hebei, opposite to the county seat. It is called Lion Cave. The cave is covered by a temple, and the temple is covered by old trees, big bamboos and vines.The entrance of the cave is not very tall, but after entering the cave, it is lit with fire, and neither the edge nor the top can be seen.The stone walls on all sides are as white as jade, and the ground is covered with white fine sand.There is also a small natural path in the cave, which can go up to a stone house.There are cinnabar red spots at the foot of the road, and the color is very bright.There are stone beds and stone tables in the stone house, which seems to be the residence of alchemists in the past.The bat spreads its wings about one foot and grows up. It does not know where to seek food.The cave is wide and dark, so three or five burning candles must be used to illuminate it, guided by the people in the temple, and when the fire burns to two-thirds, they will find their way out, otherwise they may get lost and it will be difficult to get out.Huoliao is made of dead bamboo branches, which are sold by temple guards to cave tourists. When lit, the dead bamboo branches explode in the cave, and the sound is like gunshots, like thunder cannons.There is a small spring in the cave in summer, and the water tastes sweet.There are still small fish and shrimps in the water. In winter, there is only a hole, and the fish and shrimps don't know where to go.
The hill near the city is famous for killing chickens. At first glance, the mountain is not very tall, but people down the mountain kill a chicken when they go up the mountain, and wait for the people to reach the top of the mountain. The chickens of the people down the mountain are already cooked in the pot.Therefore, it is called Killing Chicken Slope.There is also a big mountain on the opposite side of the river, named Yezhupo, where wild boars come out.The land, jungles and caves on the slopes are divided between the people who burned the mountains and farms and the big snakes. At night, the tigers and leopards come to the people who farm and open the mountains to eat piglets. The direction the leopard is going.Sometimes in broad daylight the tiger would raise its head and roar, and the valley responded for a long time.
Therefore, farmers often take knives, spears and firearms to search for all kinds of guys in the woods and caves, catch big snakes with rope nets, and set traps with poisonous smoke to hunt wild animals.The wild boars that ravage agricultural products are the most abundant on the ridge. They like to steal sweet potatoes from the mountain fields, and they are the real enemies of the mountain people.Precisely because there are so many enemies that damage the crops, hunting wild boars with gongs and drums has become a common ritual and entertainment.
The pears produced locally are light ocher in color and fragrant and sweet in taste. They are called "Yangdong pears". The skin is thick and tough, so it is easy to preserve.The dense boxwood is produced, and countrymen often tie their bodies with ropes and hang it to the cliffs of the valley. They cut the boxwood from the high cliff, saw each section into two feet long, and carry it to the city to find a seller. It's like selling firewood.In the eyes of the locals, the wood with a large mouth is very common.This kind of good wood is mostly used to make chopsticks and Tianjiu cards according to the local people's habits.There is a lot of demand and little supply, so part of it is filled with teak wood.The kohlrabi is slightly worse than that of Longshan.Xiangxi kohlrabi should be counted as the best in Longshan, a county close to western Hubei. It is golden in color and sweet and fragrant.Compared with the tea from Guzhang County, which is a neighboring mountain city, the quality of the tea produced is slightly better.However, in the mellowness, there is a kind of fragrance.The Chen family tea garden was the first to gain popularity in western Hunan, and produced beautiful teas, but unfortunately the quantity was small and there was no way to transport them abroad.
Yongsui County is forty-five miles away from Baojing.The Miao people in Baojing County live less.In Yongsui County, most of them are Miao people.Trading is very lively during the market, pigs, cattle, sheep, oil, salt, ironware and agricultural tools, as well as a piece of wood, a piece of bamboo, a stone mortar, and a pinch of tinder, are all bought and sold.There are all kinds of things in Dachangping, colorful and colorful, which can be described as a spectacle.Shi Honggui is one of the outstanding members of the Miao people in this county. He is very enthusiastic about the education of the Miao people and is very familiar with the issues of the Miao people.A college graduate, he served as county magistrate several times.
The three counties were still ruled by chieftains in the middle of the Qing Dynasty. Since the chieftains were hereditary, Yongshun's surname was Xiang, Baojing's surname was Peng, and Yongsui's surname was Song. Up to now, these three surnames are still local giants.The chieftain's rule is a thing of the past, and the method of rule cannot be studied, except for many large mounds, which are commonly known as chieftain's tombs, but leaving a legend can still stimulate people's hearts.That is to say, the chieftain, except the same clan, has the "first night right" to any other newly married people.The bride should be sent to the chieftain's mansion to stay for three days to get rid of evil spirits before returning it.
Perhaps it is for this reason that Fang with the three surnames became a local giant.There are many tombs of chieftains, which is not unrelated to Cao Cao's seventy-two suspected tombs, but also has something to do with the execution of Chu Yequan.
The largest commercial water pier in the upper reaches of the Baihe River is named "Rie".Sichuan salt enters Hunan, and taxes are paid here.Several tung oil sites in the border areas are concentrated at this pier.
Standing on the high side of the Liye River, you can look at Bamian Mountain, which borders the three provinces of Sichuan, Hunan and Hubei.The mountain is like a barrel, hundreds of miles around, steep and overhanging on all sides, and only one path can go up and down.There is a level of flat sun above, and there is good spring water, and it produces good rice and miscellaneous grains, and there are about one hundred families living there.If the mountain road is blocked, it will be cut off from everything, as if there is another world.In the past 20 years, it was often occupied by the king of Luocao, and it was not easy to attack.But there is no salt on it, so it is not easy to keep it for a long time.
There are several branches in the upper reaches of the Baihe River, one of which reaches Longshan.Longshan produces good kohlrabi.The mountains and rivers are cold, the fish tastes delicious, and it does not rot in June, and the water comes from western Hubei.One of the river sources is in the east of Sichuan, and the Hunan border ends at Chadong.Because this is the last water pier in Hunan Province, although it is small, it is still interesting.Although this place is actually very unfamiliar to people, it seems to be very familiar when it is said.The following is an excerpt from one of my novels. There seems to be more than one place like this in the Baihe River Basin.
The city is built against the mountain by the water. On the side near the mountain, the city wall is like a long snake, climbing along the mountain.On the side facing the water, there is room to set up a wharf by the river outside the city, where small canopied boats are moored.When the boat goes down, tung oil, green salt, gallnuts for dyeing are transported.Cotton, cotton yarn, cloth, groceries and seafood are transported upward.There is a river street running through all the piers. Most of the houses are half on the ground and half on the water. Because of the limited space, those houses are built on stilts.The spring water rose in the river, and when the water entered the street, the houses on the river street used long ladders, one end was placed on the eaves of the house, and the other end was placed on the city wall. Rice vats, climb into the city from the ladder, and leave the city through the city gate when the water recedes.If the water is particularly strong, one or two of the stilted buildings along the river will be washed away by the water. Everyone will just stare at the top of the city, and those who have suffered losses will also stare blankly. It seems that they have nothing to say about the losses. Arrangements are similar when other irremediable misfortunes strike.When the water is flooding, you can still look at the suddenly widened river surface from the city.Therefore, in front of the tax barges where the water is slow, there are often people driving small sampans. When the middle of the river is ups and downs, it is an animal, a small log, or an empty boat with a woman or child crying. The sound of shouting, they hurriedly put the oars away.Go downstream to meet the target, tie it with a long rope, and paddle toward the shore.These brave people also love profit and righteousness, similar to ordinary local people.Regardless of saving life and property, he is also very agile and brave in a kind of happy and adventurous behavior.
On the river street outside the city, there are also inns where businessmen settle down, and barbershops that stay in place.
In addition, restaurants, grocery stores, oil stores, salt stores, and Huayizhuang all have their own status and decorate this river street.There are also shops selling sandalwood carts, bamboo cables, pots and pots on ships, and people who introduce sailors to eat on the docks.In front of the small restaurant, there are often fried carp tofu, decorated with red pepper shreds, lying in a shallow bowl, with a lot of red chopsticks inserted in a large bamboo tube next to the bowl, no matter who is willing to spend a little money, this person You can sit down by the long table in front of the door, and take out a pair of chopsticks to your hands. Over there, a woman with extremely thin eyebrows and white powder on her face came over and asked, "Would you like sweet wine? Do you want shochu?" The man flamed Those who are taller, humorous, and interested in the shopkeeper must pretend to be angry and say: "Eat rum? You're not a child, and you ask people to eat rum!" Scoop it out with a wooden strainer, pour it into an earthen bowl, and immediately come to the desk next to you.
Some kind of patrons came into being with the development of commerce in the metropolis. Because of the needs of merchants and sailors, there is actually a group of people in this small border town, He Street, who gather in some houses with stilted buildings.This kind of woman wears clothes made of fake foreign silk, trousers made of calico, her eyebrows are drawn into a thin line, and her big bun is covered with very fragrant and vulgar oil. She has nothing to do during the day and just sits at the door to make shoes. , use red and green silk thread to embroider double phoenix on the toe of the shoe, or lean on the window facing the river to watch the sailors lift the goods and listen to the sailors singing while climbing the mast.At night, they take turns to receive merchants and sailors, earnestly fulfilling the duties of a prostitute.
Because the customs in the frontier are simple, even if you are a prostitute, you will always be so honest. When you meet unfamiliar customers, you have to pay money first when doing business, and then close the door and go wild. Once people are familiar, money is dispensable. It's time.Prostitutes mostly rely on merchants to make a living, but most of their friendship is with sailors.In a good relationship, they bit their lips and necks and swore to each other, and agreed that "everyone is not allowed to mess around after breaking up".For forty or fifty days, the one floating on the boat and the one on the shore will spend the same amount of days, binding their hearts tightly to a person far away. .Especially the woman, she is so crazy that it is beyond description. When the man does not come back after the appointed time, when he dreams, he often dreams that the boat is approaching the shore.Or if there is doubt in the middle of the day, in the dream, you will see a man singing in the other direction on the mast, but ignore yourself.The weaker ones threw themselves into the river and swallowed opium in their dreams, while the stronger ones ran straight towards the sailor with a kitchen knife in hand.Although their lives are so alienated from the general society, when tears and joy are mixed into the lives of these people in a kind of love and hatred gain and loss, they are similar to other people in another land, and their whole body and mind are affected by that love and hatred. Soaked, see the cold as the heat, forget everything. (quoted)
Luxi.Pu City.Box Rock goes up from Yuanling along the Yuanshui River, 140 miles to Chenxi County, a famous place for coal production in western Hunan.It should pass through Luxi County, with a total distance of 60 li. It is a stop for the boat going up from Yuanling that day, and it is also the confluence of Donghe (Luxi) and Yuanshui.Sixty miles further on, it is called Pu City, which is under the jurisdiction of Luxi County. It is a water wharf whose heyday has passed for forty years.Go up another twenty miles to Chenxi County, where Chenxi flows into Yuanshui.
The road from Yuanling to Chenxi mostly circles in the mountains, without passing through Luxi or Pu City.
In many travel notes, there are many records of the middle section of the Yuanshui River Basin, the relics of ancient cave dwellers' residences, ocher red wooden houses or warehouses along the cliffs and cliffs along the river, which are very moving.If the traveler thinks it worth seeing, he should go by boat.Like many riverside cliffs in the Yuanshui River Basin, this cliff is made of limestone.This particularly famous cliff is between Luxi Pu City and is called Box Rock.The ocher wooden cabinets are square wooden utensils, and there are still three or five of them placed in the cracks and cracks in the mid-air of freshly cut rocks.It is not known whether this is the real remains of the original people's residence, or the wooden cabinet where the ancient barbarians stored their bones.For the meaning of its existence, there should be some older records or legends, which have been lost for a long time.
The following passages are excerpted from a travel note I wrote several years ago: "Luxi" Luxi County is surrounded by mountains, and the river flows through the gorge.The county seat is located at the confluence of the Donghe River and the Yuanshui River. The boats on the small river are close to the city, and the boats on the big river are about one-third of the way to the city. (Donghe River is commonly called Xiaohe, and Yuanshui is commonly called Dahe River.) The source of Donghe River is far away from Miao Township, and about 50 small black Donghe boats are moored at the mouth of the river all the year round.The boatmen have short and dainty flower handkerchief seedlings, flower handkerchiefs on their heads, and skirts around their waists.There are fair-faced and elegant people in the institute, who are gentle and elegant when speaking, and good at singing when they open their mouths.Since the water in the Donghe River rises rapidly, and the river has many twists and turns, it is no longer suitable for sailing boats to take advantage of the wind. When boats entering the Donghe River arrive here, they will bundle their sails into a bundle and make a special mark on it. , store it in a store in the city, and wait for the load to go down, and then come to pick it up.For Yuanshui merchant ships sailing from Chenzhou, sixty miles is a long stop, and it is inevitable to stop at Luxi.If the boat going down from Pu City does not make it to Chenzhou on the same day, they will usually spend the night here.However, the upper and lower two large piers have snatched all the business. Although there are several ships berthing here every day, the business in the small town is very light.Along the big river, there is not a single bluestone wharf, and boats have to dock at mudflats and mud embankments.
On rainy days, braved the light rain, walked into the county town street from the mud.In the cloth shop run by people from Jiangxi on the main street, an old woman with white hair sat in the shop cabinet, solemn and silent like an ancient Buddha.The big boss had nothing to do, but he was shy, with his hands crossed, his feet stretched into a figure of eight, and he stood by the threshold and slipped away from the eaves of the street.On the sidewalk made of stone slabs in the narrow alley, children carry big and simple umbrellas, and there is a very lonely sound of spikes.If the weather is clear, Stone City is on the sunset side, and the battlements and towers all set off a clear outline against the yellow sky where the setting sun sets.Every hilltop is plated with gold, and the river is full of oars singing and floating.In such a small town, there is a Mr. Gong Debo who wrote "Nothing to Fear in Japan".
"Ura City" This is a wharf that has declined after the prosperity of the past.
Thirty years ago was the pinnacle of this place's prosperity. One of the reasons is that every three months, the provincial government asked for the 140,000 taels of salary for the Phoenix Hall Township and Chenyuan Yongjing Brigade Guards. There are so many ships in the province here. So far, the silver will be transported by the dry road station.
Hiring rate officers and escorts was a rich job at that time, and if you have money to spend, you will spend money.At that time, there are often three to two thousand new oil baskets drying in the sun in the oil mills along the long street along the river.
Half of the seven piers made of bluestone along the river are often berthed with sturdy and tall oil tankers with four sculls and five cabins.In addition, most of the ships brought Huai salt, cloth, flower yarn, and foreign and general goods needed in Sichuan and Guizhou from downstream.The cinnabar, mercury, ramie, gallnut, and raw and cooked medicinal materials from the Sichuan-Guizhou border by dry road are all delivered and reprinted here.When timber floats down the river, half of the river is often covered with that kind of raft.
In the local market, there are firecrackers, paper, fat people, and fat pigs.The river surface is unusually wide and flat, and the pier is clean and tidy.At the end of the market is a long pond, and at the upper reaches of the river is a small beach. Whenever the evening sun sinks into the earth, and the clouds in the sky are baked by the afterglow of the setting sun, leaving a deep purple, a large group of cargo ships descend from top to bottom, and the people who rock the boat Before mooring the boat near the shore, on the river surface full of mist, the song of urging oars floating in the dusk scenery is just such a magnificent, rare and joyful song!
After 1911, the newly formed army was often mobilized years ago, and the salary of the Central Association of some provinces was also adjusted by the lijin of the counties.In a short period of time, most of the tobacco and earth transits that have been replaced in place have also been diverted to Guangxi exits on the South Road.All consumer stores are shrinking day by day, and only some raw material goods ships pass by.When such a large amount of financial activities stopped, the city's consumer business was hit and the scope was reduced, which also affected a series of small businesses.
Now that's all in the past, and the piers along the river are in dilapidated condition.A pier where the boats are moored, a total of twelve boats.Except for one ship carrying square pillar-shaped wool iron and one carrying Chenxi bituminous coal, which is being signed for loading there, the other ships seem to have been moored for many days, with no cargo to load, and they all seem very lonely and tightly crowded. in one place.A few boats also hung a circle made of bamboo cables on the small mast or penny, as a sign of "this boat is sold" waiting for the owner to change.
"Box Rock" was the fifteenth day of the fifth lunar month, and the country folk celebrated the Duanyang Festival.
The three most beautiful dragon boats in the box rock cave were all dragged out by the countrymen and floated on the water.The boat is narrow and long, with scarlet lines drawn on the side of the boat. The whole boat is full of young men with red cloth wrapped around their heads and waists.At the sound of the drum, the boat is like a featherless arrow, flying back and forth in the calm and waveless Changtan.The river was about a mile wide, and people on both banks watched the boats and yelled loudly to add to the fun.And some good people climbed to the top of the hanging rock from the back mountain, and threw the "Pudijin" Baizi side cannon from the high rock, and the side cannon burst in mid-air, forming a cloud of multicolored shredded paper.The sound of Pengpeng Pengpeng's side cannons echoes with the sound of gongs and drums in the boats on the water, which arouses people's fantasy and emotion about history.
Two thousand years ago, the state of Chu expelled Qu Yuan, if he himself had not been exiled, he would have come to such a place full of strange brilliance and witnessed these thrilling scenes. "Song", the history of Chinese literature will not be what it is now.During this long period of time, many nations in the world have degenerated, aged, and perished.Even a piece of land known as a great country in East Asia has been trampled and trampled by barbarians from the desert many times, riding fat horses, holding strong bows and crossbows, spears and halberds!However, everything in this place, although it has been in the history, there are continuous killings and scrambles, and when the dynasty changes, the people are assigned to bear all kinds of unfortunate fates. Subject to various restrictions and domination.However, if you think about it carefully, these people seem to have nothing to do with the progress of history.Judging from the way they cope with survival and the way they entertain their emotions, it seems that the past and present are the same, regardless of each other.
When the sun sets, the clouds and shadows fade away, and the two banks gradually disappear in the gentle twilight.
There were fewer and fewer shouts from boat watchers on both sides of the strait.The river surface was shrouded in a purple mist, and apart from the sound of gongs and drums, the direction of the dragon boats could still be discerned, and there was nothing else to be seen.
However, there are noisy voices at the gap in the rock wall, and there are children crying and women screaming sharply, which gives people a sense of leisure and endlessness. ...After a long time, the sound of gongs and drums was still floating on the river, indicating that a group of people were still unwilling to leave the boat and return home.After dinner, climb out of the cabin and take a look, ah, what a full moon!Under the moonlight, the stone walls and the river surface are all plated with silver, which has completely changed their tone.On the edge of the water pier at the gap in the rock wall, someone was lighting a fire with waste bamboo cables or oil firewood. Under the light of the fire, only the shadows of many people in white clothes moved.Those people were moving the food and drink onto the boat, ready to distribute it to the people on the dragon boat.It turned out that these young people had been rowing all day, and all the boat watchers had dispersed, but the boaters were not enjoying themselves enough, and the three boats still had to play under the moonlight for half the night.
Mentioning this incident makes people feel again the poverty of human written language, that kind of voice, that kind of sentiment, which cannot be fully described in words.
Every time these people come to the Duanyang Festival, they have to go down the river to play dragon boats for a whole day, but their daily lives are divided according to one kind, and they live their lives very simply.
Every day, I watch the passing boats swaying and sailing, watching the sunset and water birds.Although there are also small gains and losses in personnel affairs, when grievances and disputes become a ball, celebrations or vendettas will occur one after another.However, on the whole, these people's lives seem to have been integrated with "nature", and they are there to perform their own life in a very calm manner. Like other inanimate substances, they only radiate and decompose in the alternation of sun and moon, cold and heat.Moreover, in this process, these people seem to know a little more about how small people are than any philosophers in the world.
These people who live up to nature, compromise with nature, have no responsibility for history, and live in this unknown place.In addition, there are still a group of people who do not compromise with nature and devise various methods to control nature, which violates the habits of nature, and also spends the alternation of cold and heat, watching the sun and moon rise and fall.Yet the latter is changing history and making history.A new sun and moon will soon destroy all the old ones.
What method should we use to make these people feel a kind of "fear" in their hearts, give up their attitude towards nature and peace, regain their energy, and live with the spirit of rowing a dragon boat?The zeal of these men for their pleasures proves that it deserves them to occupy a place in the world, and to live a little more pleasantly and longer.But who is going to transform these people's fanaticism into a new competition? (Quoted from "Xiangxing Sanji") This hope is that the people of Yupu City have no conclusions.
The fat people and fat pigs in Pushi Town have been almost "lost" due to the changes of the times, and the locals don't quite understand them.Keep its name, so that the people in the Yuanshui River Basin still know that there is a "Pu City" place, where all the cannons and actors are left behind.People in the Yuanshui River Basin like to use side cannons in case of emergency. They use them in weddings and funerals, they use them when sailing boats, relatives use them when welcoming guests, and they also use them when selling pigs and buying cattle.Almost nothing doesn't need it.Nitrate and paper are needed to make side cannons. Pu City produces good nitrate and bamboo paper.The side cannons in Pu City are very cheap and loud, so most of the supply of side cannons in the Yuanshui River Basin is provided by shops in Pu City.People in Pu City love and understand opera.When farming starts or ends in February and August, the country people need rewards for the land, and they also need public entertainment.Therefore, there are often leaders who come forward to collect money and recruit members, and invite the big wooden puppet troupe to perform.The roles of this kind of troupe are both neat and beautiful, and the most famous ones are in Pu City.There are three pagodas in the lower reaches of the river in Pushi Town. There are local legends that there are goblins living in the pagodas. The legends are too old, because there is a story about flooding the Jinshan Temple, but because the legends are popular, the pagodas seem to be very new.There is a big temple across the river from the town, named Jiangdong Temple.The ancient pine tree in the temple needs five people to join hands to hug it. The old plum tree is three feet high.In the side courtyard of the temple, there is a runner Tibetan, made of wood, three or four feet high, supported by big iron shafts with buckets up and down.When three or five people hold the wooden handle with the carved dragon head and turn it hard, the sound is like a dragon's cry, shrill and long, very moving.According to records, it was made to imitate the sound of a dragon. When it is turned in the middle of the night, it can be heard clearly ten miles away.According to local legend, there are three and a half runners in the world, and Pu City occupies one of them.The temple was built by Yuchi Jingde, a black warrior of the Tang Dynasty.As far as the architectural style is concerned, it belongs to the Ming Dynasty and was rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty.The local people are good at wooden puppet play, and there are many stories in the play where the black face goes in and the red face goes out. Yuchi Jingde is a hero in the play, so it is very natural to attach it to this temple.The wharf in Pu City has been in decline. Thirty years ago, the very popular merchants moved and went bankrupt. The temple has repeatedly stationed troops. In recent years, all the flowers and trees have been destroyed, and the temple has also been reduced to a pile of rubble.There are only three or five opera masters who are well-known in the Yuanshui River Basin.Most of the puppet operas are sung in a high tone, accompanied by suona, and sung in the field, the mood is quite tragic.When the cauliflower is yellow and the crops are ripe, these people take their theater boxes and walk around. When the performance is held in front of the small earth temples in the fields, women, old and young, who are ten miles away, put on new clothes, and the young women wear heavy silverware. , Some even carried their own benches and lunch boxes, ran to the theater, and ate something while watching the theater.Actors who have a good voice and are good at making puppets look lively are often favored by local young women.
In the twelfth lunar month of winter, these opera singers took another piece of family business and rushed to Fenghuang County to perform wish operas to pay Nuo God.这种酬神戏与普通情形完全不同，一切由苗巫作主体，各扮着乡下人，跟随苗籍巫师身后，在神前院落中演唱。或相互问答，或共同合唱一种古典的方式。戏多夜中在火燎下举行，唱到天明方止。参加的多义务取乐性质，照例不必需金钱报酬，只大吃大喝几顿了事，这家法事完了又转到另外一家去。一切方式令人想起《仲夏夜之梦》的乡戏场面，木匠、泥水匠、屠户、成衣人，无不参加。戏多就本地风光取材，诙谐与讽刺，多健康而快乐，有希腊《拟曲》趣味。不用弦索，不用唢呐，惟用小锣小鼓，尾声必需大家合唱，观众也可合唱。尾声照例用“些”字，或“禾和些”字，借此可知《楚辞》中末字的用处。戏唱到午夜后，天寒土冻，锣鼓凄清，小孩子多已就神坛前盹睡，神巫便令执事人重燃大蜡，添换供物，神巫也换穿朱红绣花缎袍，手拿铜剑锦拂，捶大鼓如雷鸣，吭声高唱，独舞娱神，兴奋观众。末后撤下供物酒食，大家吃喝。俟人人都恢复精神后，新戏重新上常这些唱戏的到岁暮年末时，方带了所得猪羊肉（羊肉必取后腿，带上那个小小尾巴），大小米糍粑，以及快乐和疲劳，各自回家过年。
在浦市镇头上向西望，可以看见远山上一个白塔，尖尖的向透蓝天空矗着。白塔属辰溪县的风水，位置在辰溪县下边一点。塔在河边山上，河名“斤丝潭”，打鱼人传说要放一斤生丝方能到底。斤丝潭一面是一列悬崖，五色斑驳，如锦如绣。崖下常停泊百十只小渔船，每只船上照例蓄养五七只黑色鱼鹰。这水鸟无事可作时，常蹲在船舷船顶上扇翅膀，或沉默无声打瞌盹。盈千累百一齐在平潭中下水捕鱼时，堪称一种奇观，可见出人类与另一种生物合作，在自然中竞争生存的方式，虽处处必需争斗，却又处处见出谐和。箱子岩也是一列五色斑驳的石壁，长约三四里，同属石灰岩性质。石壁临江一面崭削如割切。河水深而碧，出大鱼，因此渔船也多。岩下多洞穴，可收藏当地人五月节用的狭长龙船。岩壁缺口处有人家，如为造物者增加画意，似经心似不经心点缀上这些大小房子。最引人注意处还是那半空中石壁罅穴处悬空的赭色巨大木柜。上不沾天，下不及泉，传说中古代穴居者的遗迹。端阳竞渡时水面的壮观，平常人不容易得到这种眼福，就不易想象它的动人光景。遇晴明天气，白日西落，天上薄云由银红转成灰紫。停泊崖下的小渔船，烧湿柴煮饭，炊烟受湿，平贴水面，如平摊一块白幕。绿头水凫三只五只，排阵掠水飞去，消失在微茫烟波里。一切光景静美而略带忧郁。
随意割切一段勾勒纸上，就可成一绝好宋人画本。满眼是诗，一种纯粹的诗。生命另一形式的表现，即人与自然契合，彼此不分的表现，在这里可以和感官接触。一个人若沉得住气，在这种情境里，会觉得自己即或不能将全人格融化，至少乐于暂时忘了一切浮世的营扰。现实并不使人沉醉，倒令人深思。越过时间，便俨然见到五千年前腰围兽皮手持石斧的壮士，如何精心设意，用红石粉涂染木材，搭架到悬崖高空上情景。且想起两千年前的屈原，忠直而不见信，被放逐后驾一叶小舟飘流江上，无望无助的情景。更容易关心到这地方人将来的命运，虽生活与自然相契，若不想法改造，却将不免与自然同一命运，被另一种强悍有训练的外来者征服制驭，终于衰亡消灭。说起它时使人痛苦，因为明白人类在某种方式下生存，受时代陶冶，会发生一种无可奈何的痛苦。悲悯心与责任心必同时油然而生，转觉隐遁之可羞，振作之必要。
目睹山川美秀如此，“爱”与“不忍”会使人不敢堕落，不能堕落。因此一个深心的旅行者，不妨放下坐车的便利，由沅陵乘小船沿沅水上行，用两天到达辰溪。所费的时间虽多一点，耳目所得也必然多一点。
辰溪的煤
湘西有名的煤田在辰溪。一个旅行者若由公路坐车走，早上从沅陵动身，必在这个地方吃早饭。公路汽车须由此过河，再沿麻阳河南岸前进。旅行者一瞥的印象，在车站旁所能看到的仅仅是无数煤堆，以及远处煤堆间几个黑色烟筒。过河时看到的是码头上人分子杂，船夫多，矿工多，游闲人也多。
半渡之际看到的是山川风物，秀气而不流于纤巧。水清且急，两丈下可见石子如樗蒲在水底滚动。过渡后必想到，地方虽不俗，人好象很呆，地下虽富足，一般人却极穷相。以为古怪，实不古怪。过路人虽关心当地荣枯和居民生活，但一瞥而过，对地方问题照例是无从明白的。
辰河弄船人有两句口号，旅行者无不熟习，那口号是：“走尽天下路，难过辰溪渡。”事实上辰溪渡也并不怎样难过，不过弄船人所见不广，用纵横千里一条沅水与七个支流小河作准，说说罢了。……辰溪县的位置恰在两条河流的交汇处，小小石头城临水倚山，建立在河口滩脚崖壁上。河水清而急，深到三丈还透明见底。河面长年来往湘黔边境各种形体美丽的船只。山头是石灰岩，无论晴雨，都可见到烧石灰的窑上飘扬青烟和白烟。房屋多黑瓦白墙，接瓦连椽紧密如精巧图案。对河与小山城成犄角，上游为一个三角形小阜，小阜上有修船造船的宽坪。位置略下，为一个山嘴，濒河拨峰，山脚一面接受了沅水激流的冲刷，一胊面被麻阳河长流淘洗，近水岩石多玲珑透空。山半有个壮丽辉煌的庙宇，庙宇外岩石间且有成千大小不一的石佛。
在那个悬岩半空的庙里，可以眺望上行船的白帆，听下行船摇橹人唱歌。小船挹流而渡，艰难处与美丽处实在可以平分。
地方为产煤区，似乎无处无煤，故山前山后都可见到用土法开掘的煤洞煤井。沿河两岸常有百十只运煤船停泊，上下洪江与常德码头间无时不有若干黑脸黑手脚汉子，把大块黑煤运送到船上，向船舱中抛去。若到一个取煤的斜井边去，就可见到无数同样黑脸黑手脚人物，全身光裸，腰前围一片破布，头上戴一盏小灯，向那个俨若地狱的黑井爬进爬出。矿坑随时可以坍陷或被水灌入，坍了，淹了，这些到地狱讨生活的人，自然也就完事了。（引自《湘行散记》）战事发生后，国内许多地方的煤田都丢送给日本人了，东三省热河的早已完事。绥远河北山东安徽的全得不着了。可是辰溪县的煤，直到二十七年二月里，在当地交货，两块钱一吨还无买主。运到一百四十里距离的沅陵去，两毛钱一百斤很少人用它。山上沿河两岸遍山是杂木杂草，乡下人无事可作，无生可谋，挑柴担草上城换油盐的太多，上好栎木炭到年底时也不过卖一分钱一斤，除作坊槽坊和较大庄号用得着煤，人人都因习惯便利用柴草和木炭。这种热力大质量纯的燃料，于是同过去一时当地的青年优秀分子一样，在湘西竟成为一种肮脏累赘毫无用处的废物。地方负责的虽知道这两样东西都极有用，可不知怎样来用它。到末了，年青人不是听其飘流四方，就是听他们腐化堕落。廉价的燃料，只好用本地民船运往五百里外的常德，每吨一块半钱到二块六毛钱。同时却用二百五十块钱左右一吨的价钱，运回美孚行的煤油，作为湘西各县城市点灯用油。
富源虽在本地，到处都是穷人，不特下井挖煤的十分穷困，每天只能靠一点点收入，一家人挤塞在一个破烂逼窄又湿又脏的小房子里住，无望无助的混下去。孩子一到十岁左右，就得来参加这种生活竞争。许多开矿的小主人，也因为无知识，捐项多，耗费大，运输不便利，煤又太不值钱，弄得毫无办法，停业破产。
这应当是谁的责任？瞻望河边的风景，以及那一群肮脏瘦弱的负煤人，两相对照，总令人不免想得很远很远。过去的，已成为过去了。来在这地面上，驾驭钢铁，征服自然，使人人精力不完全浪费到这种简陋可怜生活上，使多数人活得稍象活人一点，这责任应当归谁？是不是到明日就有一群结实精悍的青年，心怀雄心与大愿，来担当这个艰苦伟大的工作？是不是到明日，还不免一切依然如旧？答复这个问题，应在青年本身。
这是一个神圣矿工的家庭故事——
Press "Left Key ←" to return to the previous chapter; Press "Right Key →" to enter the next chapter; Press "Space Bar" to scroll down.