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Chapter 7 hangzhou

Duff Travels 郁达夫 3446Words 2018-03-18
Most of Hangzhou's fame is due to the West Lake.The artificial construction and the formation of the city were originally due to the separatist rule of the southeast by Wusu King Qian Pound (early tenth century Western calendar) in the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. Later, King Qian of Wusu sent out civilians and soldiers from the Thirteen Villages to build Luocheng, with a circumference of about 70 miles..." (Volume 7 of Wu Zimu's "Menglianglu")--and because of the construction of the Southern Song Dynasty In the third year of Yan (1129), Emperor Gaozong stayed in Lin'an and established the capital of the country.Even if Bai Letian of Tang Dynasty and Su Dongpo of Song Dynasty built dikes and diverted water, the people of Hang County were also credited, but the power of a county guard who was drunk, recited poems and brought prostitutes, in any case, could not compete with the emperor.

It is said that the word "Hangzhou" in Hangzhou is due to "in the last years of Yu, when he visited Kuaiji, he landed on the boat, it was named Hang, and it first appeared in writing." Hangzhou is always a country of prosperity.And this Ze State more than 4,000 years ago, later became Yue and Wu, and also became the battlefield of Wu and Yue, Zhejiang in the Eastern Han Dynasty, Fuchun in Wu in the Three Kingdoms, Wu County in Jin Dynasty, Hangzhou in Sui and Tang Dynasties, and the capital of Pian'an. , has become a provincial government, and now it has become a traffic channel for the five southeastern provinces. There are singing and dancing, and the villas are full of land. It is almost going to restore the old view of the capital in the Southern Song Dynasty.

When I traveled to Hangzhou, I didn’t intend to go to the West Lake to seek dreams, let alone bend a crossbow to shoot tides; but my wife is from Hangzhou, and she is good at Hangyin, and my father and grandfather are born in Fuchun. Back home, fish and rice in my hometown are cheaper, and debts are also available.Yi,--I dare not say this year,--the rent of the house is especially cheap.After moving here, the time has passed, and in the blink of an eye, I have lived here for a year and a half.Among my friends who know my address in Hangzhou, on the auspicious days of spring and autumn, when they visit the West Lake, they are often willing to order Gao Xuan to visit me in vain.Because I was alone in a poor country, I was pitifully lonely. My friends came from afar, so I naturally liked to talk to them about old things and talk about Hangzhou.In this way, not long after, everyone seems to have regarded me as the key of Hangzhou and the owner of Shanshui; the editor of "Middle School Students" magazine specially wrote to me to write some articles about Hangzhou, probably because of this. .

About the general history of Hangzhou's rise and fall, there are many books in "Zhejiang Tongzhi", "Hangzhou Fuzhi", "Renqian County Chronicles"; about Hangzhou's anecdotes, historical sites of lakes and mountains, etc., there are also books in the Guangxu period. The Collection of Stories of Martial Arts and Collections of West Lake edited and engraved by Ding Shen and Ding Bing of Qiantang, as well as the old and new "West Lake Chronicles", "Hushan Bianlan", and the travel notes or guidebooks of West Lake by great writers in various bookstores , can be used as a reference; so here, I don't want to gossip about these again, to waste the time of the paper and the readers.First, I think it is worth writing about, and for readers, what may not be completely boring is the character of Hangzhou people; therefore, I plan to start with "Hangzhou people".

Where did the first Hangzhou people come from? The question of the origin of the Hangzhou race is probably the same as whether there was an egg or a chicken first. Even if Darwin was resurrected from the underworld, it would not be easy to solve: fortunately These are not our subject, so we assume that soon after the land of Hangzhou came out of the water, some savages, good at fishing and hunting, came and lived. Let us treat these barbarians as the ancestors of Hangzhou people.The people of Wuyue Kingdom have always been belligerent, persevering, hardworking, jealous, and full of ingenuity.Since the conquest of Gusu by the use of beauties, although they have won military affairs, they have suffered great losses in folk customs; the spirit of fighting, perseverance, and hard work has gradually disappeared.It is jealousy, which makes Ji's various senses gradually developed.Later, after being attacked by King Wei of Chu, Emperor Qin Shihuang, Emperor Han Gao, etc., Hangzhou people will always be in the status of conquered people, subordinate to the northerners.The Three Kingdoms followed, the rise of the Sun family father and son, the name of the country is Wu, Hangzhou people finally let out another breath, this breath, endured the Sui and Tang Dynasties, until King Qian Wusu breathed it out; soon the Southern Song Dynasty moved the capital, the inherent Hangzhou people In the bones, the frail blood cells of the people in Bianjing were mixed in, so the character of the current Hangzhou people was determined in this way.

Weakness of will, divergent discussions; being strong outside but doing good at showing off; alert in small matters but confused in big ones; boasting of elegance but self-proclaimed aloofness; only caring about entertainment, not knowing how to cheer up, etc., are the characteristics of Hangzhou people today; these, although they are Chinese It is a common problem of ordinary people, but after looking at it, I always feel that Hangzhou people are more serious.So from the perspective of outsiders, Hangzhou people are often considered to be the most cunning people, even more cunning than the cunning people on the beach.But in fact, Hangzhou people only know how to take advantage of the small profits in front of them, and they are secretly suffering big losses, but they don't care about it.After the big loss, the Hangzhou people will still be self-righteous and self-righteous, without a name for it. They call it "Hang Tietou" to comfort and deceive themselves.Hangzhou people who are diligent and thrifty by nature think that thrift is a bad thing, an exposure of poverty, and something to do with face. Therefore, the first principle parents teach their children is to teach them to live a lazy life and to be a master. shelf.When the young masters of empty shells have learned the airs, their parents are old, and their wealth is gone, these young masters will go to the West Lake during the day to stroll around, get a long gown to wear, and work hard when they are hungry. Toothpicks; go to a dark place at night to kneel and beg for food, or pick something up, but don’t care, because people can’t see it in the dark, and it has nothing to do with face, but the young master has to put on airs.As for being a bandit or a bandit, no, absolutely no, it’s not that the people of Hangzhou don’t have the guts, but when beheading, they have to parade in the streets with their hands behind their backs, which has something to do with face; just steal.

But this is the case, so the current Hangzhou people will always be the ones who have the qualifications to be conquered; It is a mouth.Foreign conquerors, after conquering Hangzhou people, became Hangzhou people within three generations, so those who shaved their heads also shaved their heads, decades later.Still to be conquered by new conquerors.By analogy as usual, if the years go on year after year, the remaining ordinary people of Hangzhou who are now living in Hangzhou may not count as many as ten fingers. People say that this is because the mountains and rivers in Hangzhou are so beautiful.West Lake is like a vixen with "a beautiful body like a crisp", so Hangzhou can't produce good children.There is of course some truth in this statement.However, the beauty of Japan’s landscapes is far above Hangzhou; I don’t know about Switzerland, but we often see Italian landscape pictures. Why are foreigners not restricted by geography? Only Hangzhou people fall into this trap. What about going to a desperate situation? After much deliberation, I think the education is still not good.Family education, social education, and school education in Hangzhou must be thoroughly reformed.

Secondly, it's time to talk about the customs of Hangzhou; the customs of the year, the behavior in the middle of the year, which is revealed on the outside, is roughly the same as that of other provinces in the south of the Yangtze River; but in Hangzhou, things like weddings and funerals are more extravagant.Regarding this aspect, during the Tongzhi period, there was a Fan Yueqiao from Qiantang who wrote a volume "Hangzhou Sustained Customs", which was written in more detail. What I said in the book is not much different, because the Hangzhou people are basically passed down from that time, and they were reorganized at that time.The influence of urban culture is really great.

Throughout the year, people in Hangzhou are busy with empty ceremonies, except for the two important events of life and death. Even weddings and funerals, life and death, most of them focus on ceremonies.In funerals, people can pay to hire people to cry.There are also people who specialize in good words to hire people there to win prizes.Offering sacrifices to heaven and earth, ancestors, ghosts and gods, etc., is nothing more than a show; even wandering around the four seasons is included in the ceremony. , for fear of being looked down upon by others.Therefore, Gao Lian of the Ming Dynasty wrote a "Four Seasons You Shang Lu", which listed in detail the idle things that Hangzhou people should do in the four seasons.Now I just teach you to copy the short list of four-season tours, and everyone will know what Wu Zimu said, "the customs of Lin'an are extravagant in four seasons, and there is almost no time for viewing".

1. Appreciation in spring: see plum blossoms under the moon in Gushan, and cauliflower in Bagua Field.Try new tea at Hupao Spring, eat simmered bamboo shoots at Xixi Tower, watch Xiaoshan Mountain at Baojiao Pagoda, watch peach blossoms at Su Causeway, etc. 2. Summer time enjoyment: Seeing the fresh greenery on the Su Causeway, talking about the moon on the Sansheng Stone, escaping the summer heat in the Feilai Cave, picking water shield at the Pavilion in the middle of the lake, etc. 3. Enjoying in Autumn: Appreciate Osmanthus fragrans in Manjia Lane, watch the moon in Shengguo Temple, listen to the spring in Shuile Cave, enjoy the tide at night in Liuhe Pagoda, etc.

4. Spectacular appreciation in winter: watching the river from the top of Sanmao Mountain, playing in the snow in Xixi Road, watching dinner at Zhenhai Tower after snowfall, climbing Wushan Mountain to see pine pots on New Year’s Eve, etc. After briefly mentioning the disadvantages of Hangzhou people above, I finally feel compelled to make one or two simple criticisms about the landscape of Hangzhou.The landscape of the West Lake, if you look at it as a bonsai, has its benefits, that is, it is a little bigger than the bonsai: if you want to see the mountains near the West Lake, then you have to go up and stay, go west to south Twenty or thirty miles will not work.From Xiaohe Mountain in Yuhang to the top of Wuchao Mountain, if you look around, you can see the general trend of the Western Zhejiang Mountains.When the weather is fine, you can see the sun in the northwest.The cross-flow line at the foot of the south, and the Haimen in the east is the exit of the Qiantang River. The second mountain of Kanzhe is as small as a star in an astronomical mirror.If you think it’s too time consuming and you can’t keep up your feet, then at least you should take a car down the river, pass through Fan Village, and go up to Wuyun Mountain to see the Yue Mountain on the other side and the continuous peaks and peaks in the upper reaches of the Qiantang River.What's more, Wuyun Mountain is at the foot, and the west is the cloud habitat, and the bamboos and trees are quiet; the place is really not bad.From Wuyun Mountain to the north, if you follow Langdangling to Tianzhu, on the ridge, you can see the unique world of Meijiawu under the West Ridge, and the mirror-like lake light of the West Lake under the Dongling Ridge. If you want to come closer and visit the West Lake, I think Nanshan is better than Beishan. The desolation of Shengguo Temple in Fenghuangshan is far stronger than Lingyin and Geling. There is also the Xixi area at the foot of Fahua Mountain in Qinting Mountain in the north, such as Huawu Qiuxue Nunnery, Jiaolu Nunnery, etc., which are scattered and elegant, but they don’t know Nanhua, and they don’t understand the poetry of Wang Wei and Wei Yingwu. Even if people look at it, they will get nothing. More than ten miles away from the West Lake, at the east end of Gongchen Bridge, in the northeast of Hangzhou, there is also a cluster of mountains converging there.Gaoting Mountain, commonly known as "Half Mountain", is the most famous because it is close to the city. When it comes to scenery, it is definitely not as good as Huanghe Peak to the east and Chaoshan Mountain to the north.What's more, the residents at the foot of Chaoshan Mountain are engaged in fruit tree planting. The plum blossoms outside Daming Hall (next to Wu Changshuo's grave) at the beginning of February and the end of the first lunar month in the lunar calendar are really a spectacle. The name "Xiangxuehai" is not bad at all. . In addition, there is something about the food and daily life in Hangzhou. I am not a person who is a travel guide for West Lake, so I have no choice but to say nothing here. March 1934
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