Chapter 15 Yangzhou Old Dream Message Hall

language cousin: Throw away gold to buy Gillian, come to Wu City to play the flute when you are poor. The sound of the flute traveled across the Yangtze and Huaihe Rivers and reached the Ershisi Bridge in Yangzhou. This is a crooked poem I sang when I wrote the "Sentimental Journey" six or seven years ago—I remember it was the autumn of 1928; the plan at that time was to start from Shanghai and get off at Suzhou first. Then go to Wuxi, visit Taihu Lake, cross Changzhou, reach Zhenjiang, cross Guabu, and then go to Yangzhou.But because of the martial law in Suzhou, and because of a little false alarm near Taihu Lake, they changed their plans halfway. On the night when they left Wuxi, they went to Yangzhou city.There is no rhyme in the journey, so the rhyme of this doggerel is the old tune of Jiang Baishi's "Little Red Sings, I Blow the Xiao". An inexplicable folk song came out.

It was the first time I went to Yangzhou; dreaming of Yangzhou, in terms of tone and in the sense of history, how gorgeous it is, how fascinating it is! The song blowing in the west of Zhuxi should be the last sound of the flowers in the backyard of Yushu;In addition, there are ten miles of brocade sails, three thousand feet of the temple, thousands of Qionghua flowers in the Houtu temple, and two lines of jade hooks inclined to the green tomb. Calculated, Yangzhou's historic sites, famous areas, and places with beautiful mountains and rivers will always take three years and six years. It took only a month to go shopping.Literati in the Tang and Song dynasties were fascinated by Yangzhou, and they must have a special opinion; Xiao Du's "green mountains are hidden and waters are far away" and "Yangzhou dream once every ten years" are just slightly sentimental poems, as " The king forbears to flatten Chen Ye, and only exchange a few acres of land in Leitang." "Life is only for Yangzhou to die, and Zen Zhishan is good for tomb fields." That simply means that Yangzhou can make your country die and your body die , and there is absolutely no sign of regret, which is not bad!

The Yangzhou in my dream is too unpoetic, too rich in the golden powder of the Six Dynasties, so after getting on the bus from Wuxi that time, even when I arrived at the foot of my favorite Beigu Mountain, I didn’t have the heart to stay for a while, so I hurried crossed the river. On the north bank of the Yangtze River, there is a bus road built there; once you get off the ferry, you can drive straight north to the Fuyun Gate at the south gate of Yangzhou.After crossing another city river, you will enter Yangzhou City, which is the city of Yangzhou that has been admired by poets and poets of all ages for fourteen to five hundred years. It is also your father, Daiyu, who left his orphan here The city of Yangzhou where he went to become a Buddha!

But on the way to Yangzhou, the scenery I saw was flat and bleak, and there was nothing to be nostalgic for, so I remembered the poem "Going to Guangling Road" by Chao Wujiu: Zuiwo Fuli left the eunuch's pavilion, which was once called in Biedu Xianguan Ji. Huaishan, willows and willows are springing thousands of miles away, and there are still sentimental memories of Xiaosheng. (Xiao Sheng, also the maid who persuades wine.) The drums went down to Sizhou in winter, but Zhanjin Pagoda was in the middle. The place where Asahi was first born, the boat turned around and the spring mountain was about to end.

The willows are green and want to feed the birds, and the canal is darkened by the wind and rain in spring. Luofan didn't realize that Yangzhou was far away, but he was already happy to see white fish in Huaiyin. Only then did I know that he came from Sizhou in the north of Anhui, passing through Fuli (now Su County) by the waterway, so he had to see a lot of scenery, at least at least, we could also see the weeping poplars on both sides of the river and the floating fish in the river.But on the way I went, I only saw some road trees, acacias, and vast hectares of sandy fields after the autumn harvest, nothing else interesting.Even the green Yangcheng Guo is a local scenery of Yangzhou, and even the embankment willows since the Sui Dynasty have rarely been seen.

When I got outside the Fortune Gate, I became even less interested when I saw the newly built city tower and the three red characters of Fortune Gate written on the cement wall; , or Chu Pavilion and Qin Tower, how can there be poetry? When I entered the city, I saw only narrow streets and low-rise shops. After staying in a newly opened Luyang Hotel, my Yangzhou dream was half awakened.Before going to sleep, I also went shopping in the market, but there was no such thing as a peaceful scene with bright lights and singing voices. "The advantage of Yangzhou is the scenery. I will visit the Slender West Lake and Pingshan Hall tomorrow. I will be satisfied with it. Let's sleep on it for a good night. Let's nourish my feet first!" This is me The thought of relieving myself from boredom is half sincere, a spell to expel the evil thoughts of exorcising prostitutes.

Woke up early the next morning, first took a rickshaw out of Tianning Gate to visit Pingshan Hall.The Tianning Temple outside the Tianning Gate, and the Chongning Temple behind Tianning Temple, are indeed magnificent in architecture and magnificent in appearance; but for some reason, there is no monk in the temple, and the excellent yellow pine material is all broken Broken, torn apart, as if it hadn't been repaired for a long time.It was late autumn, and the weather that day was cloudy again. I was in this big garan, and there was no one around. I looked up at the Yubei Buddha and the roof, and my whole body was covered in cold sweat, and my hair stood on end. , What words should I use to describe this kind of air-conditioning?

Recalling two hundred years ago, Emperor Gaozong Nanxing, from Tianningmen to Shugang, seven or eight miles, was paved with white stones, with railings and curved sills on it, and a long corridor like the one on Kunming Lake in the Summer Palace, leading directly to At the foot of Pingshan Hall, the yellow flag and purple cover, the emerald chariot and the golden wheel, the concubines and concubines lined up, and the grand occasion like a cloud of attendants, compared with the current desolate wild scene of yellow sand winding road with decaying grass, cattle and sheep, it is really poor. too far.Of course, the ruined wells also have an aesthetic feeling that makes people nostalgic for the past, so Bao Mingyuan wrote the "Fu of Wucheng"; but when I went to Beiguo, Yangzhou, it was so desolate, so desolate that I couldn't help but sigh with emotion. It makes people unable to express.

When I went to Gongde Mountain Guanyin Temple to the east of Pingshan Hall, I had a bowl of clear tea and talked about these scenes with the monks, and then I realized that in the past few years, when soldiers went, bandits came, and when bandits went, soldiers came, and people living in cities outside the monastery.The collapse of the monastery was the right thing to do, and the escape of the monks was a last resort.In the area of ​​Shugang, there are more than ten famous temples in the three peaks, and now there are people living there, only Guanyin Temple is left. Even the Fajing Temple with Pingshan Hall in the middle peak has no abbot at the moment.

The buildings, decorations, and gardens around Pingshan Hall still retain an outline of the past; the three-storey pavilion like Pingyuan Tower is still there, but the doors and windows are gone. The pool water in the West Garden and the spring in the fifth spring The road can still be seen, but the water has dried up. There are only many traces of the old trees, flowers, rockery, stacked stones, and other pavilions and gardens, and some of them can’t even find the ruins. After admiring Ouyang Gong's stone statue in Pingshan Hall, I had no choice but to quietly return to the city without farting.I want to take a boat in the afternoon, and I went to visit the corner of Wuting Bridge in Xiaojinshan, Slender West Lake.

In this light little world, I see the benefits of Yangzhou.Because the site is close to the urban area, the dilapidation is not very serious; Xiaojinshan is facing the water, and there is a villa (Xu Garden) built by a warlord there. The structure is still new, and it is probably new in recent years. .From this place, the scenery towards the Fahai Tower of Wuting Bridge is really beautiful, exactly like the weather of Zhongnanhai in Beiping.As for the nearby monasteries and the like, they can't be talked about because they have been in disrepair for a long time. The benefits of Slender West Lake lie in the reflection of water and trees, and the twists and turns of the journey; under the shadow of autumn willows, there are red Polygonum and green weeds, scattered on the water surface, and the sound of water plants can be heard as the boat passes by, as if in the dark. weep.And after a few bends, the water surface widened, and what suddenly came into view was the Baishi Pingqiao with five neatly arranged golden pavilions, which was shorter than Jinaoyudong, but it was an oriental building. The classic taste of the ancients is completely concentrated on this bridge and these five pavilions. There is also the posture of the boat lady, which is also very graceful; she uses a bamboo pole to push the boat. When she pushes hard, the bamboo pole bends, and at the same time, the body leans forward to exert force. The curves of the arms and waist match the lines of the bamboo pole very well. Well-proportioned and extraordinarily complex.On a rainy spring day, it would be a pleasant pleasure to hire a beautiful boat lady, bring wine and tea, and take a half-day tour on the Slender West Lake. The boat returned to the pier outside the Tianning Gate, but I felt a bit reluctant to leave the boat lady, so I asked her to accompany me on the shore for another ride.I asked her: "Is there any good place near here?" She said: "There is also Shigong Temple." So she said that she would lead the way, passed Tianning Gate, and walked eastward to the foot of Meihua Ridge.There are several tile-roofed houses and a deserted tomb. Some people even say that only the clothes and hats of the Shi Ge Department are buried in the tomb, which is not very attractive; Anyone who has read the history of the Ming Dynasty will shed tears for it; moreover, after the author's description, I feel that Shihua's loyalty and courage are alive on paper; I stood in the middle of the tomb and thought; Going and walking; actually delayed the indispensable time of the boat lady.It was originally a gloomy and short late autumn, but now it is almost twilight, and I stepped on the slope of Meihua Ridge to the east, and my old folk singing disease relapsed, so I sang these twenty-eight characters in passing: In the past three hundred years, the soil has been one hill, and Shi Gong's love is full of Yangzhou; Two bright moons and a thousand lines of tears, and make Meihualing fall in autumn. At this point, I could have stopped writing, starting with a poem and ending with a poem, wouldn't it fit the genre of mandarin ducks and butterflies, but I would like to add a summary to wake you up. The dream of Yangzhou. In short, since Daye first opened Hangou into the river canal, this county of Yangzhou has become the main road for north-south transportation in China; from Tang, Song, and Qing Dynasties, commerce was concentrated here, and crowns and capes were also stationed here.Now that there is a class with property and power, a slave class that depends on this class to survive will naturally have to emerge.The sons and daughters of the poor were forced to be concubines by them, so Du Muzhi's reputation as a brothel was born.The so-called "spring breeze ten miles Yangzhou Road", Gai refers to this.With rich masters and beautiful famous prostitutes, food and living (garden pavilions), clothing and dogs and horses, famous songs and erotic songs, talents and elegant people (helping the idle eaters), naturally have to be happy with it, so you have to have a lot of money. Wanguan is the only way to visit Yangzhou.But after the opening of the railway, Yangzhou plummeted, and the depression reached the extreme.The former envoys, river governors, etc. have now been stationed elsewhere; wealthy merchants and wealthy gentry have naturally moved to Shanghai or Tianjin and other protected areas of foreign adults, so there is only one history left in Yangzhou. If the empty shell is peeled off, there is nothing in the content. The beauty of Yangzhou lies in various names, such as Luyang Village, Ersi Bridge, Xinghua Cottage, Hanshang Nongsang, Chiwulou, Yisu Temple, etc. But if you work hard, you will find the most elegant and elegant places. Where there is no name, there may be only a broken stone, or half a mud room, or there is not even a broken rock, or half a mud room.Zhang Taoan has a book called "West Lake Dream Search", which says that the West Lake was so lovely in the past, but now it is not right, but if you go to Yangzhou to search for dreams, it may be worse than the current West Lake. You don’t dare to swim in Hangzhou, so I advise you not to swim in Yangzhou. You should imagine Ouyang Gong’s Pingshan Hall, Wang Ruanting’s Red Bridge, Li’s Shige Department, Li’s Lin Ruhai, and the salt merchant’s villa in Shanghai Dream. , the enchantress of the eunuch is better.Lu Sheng on the pillow, if he can't wake up for a long time, wouldn't it be a pleasure.When it comes to reality, there is Dichtung there! May 1935 (This article is selected from the fourth volume of "Collected Works of Yu Dafu", Huacheng Publishing House and Joint Publishing Hong Kong Branch, July 1982 edition.)