Chapter 4 Three colors and four sexes (1)

--------------- Three colors and four sexes (1) --------------- When men are confusedly pushed forward or hunting or fighting, and after sweating and sweating, they are surrounded and canonized as the first sex of patriarchy; The gays, lesbians, cross-dressers, transgenders, and bisexuals living around you and me are struggling to grow up after all kinds of misunderstandings, discriminations and persecutions. They want to get back the label of the third sex, which is not fair or not. The fourth sex is coming. The fourth sex is not the crystallized baby after the people from outer space who came to the world in UFO and the earthlings who fell in love with each other did good deeds together.The fourth sex is the underage boys and girls around us. They live with incomparable patience, courage and creativity in the cruel world created by us adults. With limited encouragement and support, they endured the competition Adults are more stressed, more unfair and unreasonable.But because of youth, you can be more presumptuous and unruly, you can be more autistic and lost, you can be more aggressive and ideal, you can choose your own sexuality with more flexibility and space-challenge your natural attributes, encourage acquired sexual uncertainty, This is an interesting point in the definition of the fourth sex that is related to and beyond "sex".

"THE FORTHSEX: ADOLESCENT EXTREMES" was the theme of the Fashion Biennale held in Florence, Italy in early 2003.Since 1996, the biennale with fashion culture and life as the curatorial direction has mobilized international first-line fashion designers to explore how fashion plays a leading role in collective consumption culture, as well as fashion and other creative media including film, music, literature The inextricable relationship between architecture, architecture and even food.As creators, fashion designers must not only keep pace with the times, but must also strive to be ahead of the masses. How to obtain the inspiration and ability that can lead is also a good subject that makes the audience curious and focused.

After several fashion biennials, different curatorial groups have held the first retrospective exhibition of Italian fashion predecessor Emilio Pucci, and also discussed the relationship between fashion and film. The fresh and hot exhibition in 2003, which called "marginal" teenagers the fourth sex, realized that teenagers are not only the main consumer group of fashion trend products, but also dress up spontaneously, which directly affects people older than them. Fashion designers of ten or twenty years have directly influenced fashion trends.This time, Belgian designer Raf Simons, one of the curators, is known for his design spirit of matching street children's clothes and has been hailed by fashion critics as the leader who has successfully challenged and changed the traditional men's clothing style.

Raf Simons is well-deserved to be invited as the fourth sex curator.He has never liked wearing his own clothes on professional models. Every season, he finds a large group of underage skinny teenagers on the street, and puts on the wide, wide, long and long clothes that are like his own. The slightly ill-fitting T-shirts, trousers and jackets, from the pattern material to the tailoring, often have the feeling of military uniforms and life jackets-this is the situation of the fourth sex-in a game that will end at an unknown date Youth is the biggest capital and the most powerful weapon in the youthful, hesitant and helpless war of not knowing who will win, but it is clear that youth will pass. Is that future what everyone really wants? Once you become a disgusting adult Will the halo crown of the fourth sex, one of the people, disappear?

Coming from a small village in the outskirts of Antwerp, a major fashion city in Belgium, Raf Simons said that he is not one of those teenagers whose families are broken and lack the love of father and mother, and then run away from home to drink and take drugs. dull.Until I get older and the world gradually expands, I realize that I can't go on being so boring.Edge for the edge, rebellion for the sake of rebellion is certainly not the solution, but look at the world from a different angle, ask more questions, ask more positive suggestions, and be able to maintain a pure heart because there is some room for making mistakes. Give yourself space, because there is infinite curiosity in it.

Just as Marilyn Manson, an American rock musician who has always been deviant, was asked in a conversation what advice he would give to the fourth-gender teenagers who have been deeply influenced by him. His immediate answer was that we should not be self-righteous. There are a lot of life encyclopedias, the most important thing is to listen to their emotions, let them speak out, and give them freedom and space.This is an in-depth experience and a thorough view, and it is precisely because of this that I am qualified to connect with young people in terms of thought and behavior, and have the opportunity to understand and communicate with them in the future world.

A group of world-class creators who have grown up but still look like unruly teenagers happily participated in the exhibition part of this biennale. Among them is Larry Clark, an American director who has long documented the growth of street teenagers. His naked documentary images range from Do not shy away from the direct relationship between teenagers and sex; British sculpture installation artist Jake and Dinos Chapman brother class; use cartoons and real dolls to do all possible sex, violence, power, war and love, good and bad things; British fashion photographer NickKnight's early debut series The photo of the bald teenagers of Skinhead was unearthed again; the popular Japanese artist Takashi Murakami had his classic sculpture "Lonely Cowboy" before he collaborated with LV on Huahua handbags. The colorful practice dances in the air, the loneliness and narcissism are 100% empty; the British photographer David Sim also gives an anti-brand interpretation of the famous brand world of Austrian fashion master Helmut Lang, who has worked closely with him, to explore and question whether this adult fashion world is right for the values ​​​​of young people. adverse effect.Of course, there are German photographer Wolgang Tillmans who has always been rebellious, British female general Corrine Day, and even the eldest sister Rei Okawa Kubo is not to be outdone.

Try finding ten boys and girls ages 8 to 16 near you and ask them the following questions: What makes you happy? Who is your hero? Your favorite music? Your favorite book ? What do you think are the best and worst things about your parents? How can you make the world a little better? What will the world be like when you are 21?