Home Categories Essays Tibetan Love: A Private Feast in Shambhala

Chapter 25 Movement Nine Mangkang: This is the Shanmiao Region

In the morning, after I got up and cleaned up, I sat by the bed in a daze.The scenery outside the window is still the same, but different, it's just that one group of passengers left and another group came.It wasn't until Tang Li yelled outside the door that I dawdled, put my luggage on my back with great reluctance, and followed him away. Luo Bing has prepared breakfast for us.The last meal in Aden, Tang Li and I were a little bit tasteless, but Luo Bing was hard at work, saying that he didn't have the strength to drive a bad car and it was too dangerous. The road to Litang by car looks so desolate.

The cloud cover was very low, and soon it started to rain.The chaotic stone statues on the side of the road come from the ancient barbaric age, and a road extends between heaven and earth to the distance. Where is the distance? I gently hummed the compass's "I Have No Distance": "Lost in the steel walls of high-rise buildings, looking for a little sunlight that was missed. Without the sky, I was in a trance, and the madness of the city flashed in my eyes. So many are entwined with each other. Desires are rushing to block me. Chasing all my fearful gazes, mocking my helpless panic. Look at the feeling of getting old day by day, look at the city that can’t help but wander. I just want to stay in my dream Look at my appearance. I want the distance, I want the distance, give me back my wings, the distance is under my feet..."

Tang Li and Luo Bing were also with me, and the three of them sang this song repeatedly. After turning around a hill, the sky cleared up. On this side of the mountain, there is an endless grassland.The rolling hills are sometimes far and sometimes near, and the clouds in the sky are sometimes connected into one piece, and sometimes scattered into small ones. On the way, we saw Sun Hao and Meizi's cycling team, and we waved goodbye to them by rolling up the window. It was already noon when we arrived in Litang.We can only go so far, we must go our separate ways. Luo Bing said, "Let's have lunch together."

So, we decided to go to Suolang Mucuo's aunt's shop again, and eat beef noodles again. By the way, you can also help me find out the bus time to Batang. In Litang County, we encountered a mighty convoy of military vehicles, probably transporting supplies into Tibet. After arriving at the small restaurant, there were already two tables of tourists waiting to eat, but there was no sign of Suolang Mucuo. We still ordered beef noodles and waited quietly. Tang Li took off his woolen scarf and said he would give it to me as a farewell gift.I searched all over my body, but I couldn't find anything to give them as a souvenir, so I had to say: "I will treat you to this meal, don't argue with me. I want to thank you for taking care of me along the way!"

Probably my expression was very serious, neither Tang Li nor Luo Bing objected. When the beef noodles were served, I asked Suolang Mucuo's aunt what time the bus to Batang usually runs.She told me that sometimes it is only the next day, usually around three o'clock in the afternoon, and they are all passing cars. When the meal was almost finished, Suolang Mucuo came in from the door.We waved to him to say hello, and he still smiled shyly. It was already one o'clock in the afternoon after eating.Tang Li and Luo Bing are leaving.Tang Li joked: "On the way back, Xiu didn't sing for us, how hard it must be!" I laughed and raised my eyebrows.

People who meet by chance must say goodbye.Sending them to the door, I hugged them respectively.Then, he watched the jeep disappear at the end of the road. When I turned around and went back to the store, I found Suolang Mucuo staring at me with big eyes. The sadness of parting disappeared immediately, and I beckoned him to come and sit down at the table. Suolang Mucuo came to the side, did not sit down, and looked at me suspiciously.I said: "The shuttle bus will arrive in two hours, come and chat with me for a while!" His big eyes showed that he didn't understand, so I danced and gestured while jumping out word by word.He seemed to understand, and said in Mandarin:

"There is no shuttle bus today. You go to Batang, and I will take you off." After finishing speaking, before I could recover, he walked over to his aunt and chattered a lot, and his aunt also responded with a bunch of chatter. Then, Suolang Mucuo waved to me and motioned me to follow him. That's how I got my luck, unprepared. Before we set off, I heard that the road from Litang to Batang was very unsatisfactory. There were often Tibetans with knives who deliberately intercepted the vehicles of passing tourists.To make matters worse, if you are unlucky, you will encounter bandits, all of whom are masked men riding horses.Just listening to it is scary enough.

However, now that this Kham man is leading me, the dangers of this journey seem to have nothing to do with me, and I feel very safe from the bottom of my heart. Sadly, this sense of security lasted only a few minutes.When I saw Suolang Mucuo's mount, I felt a chill in my heart. He stood beside the dilapidated black motorcycle, patted the back seat, and invited me to go over with a smile. There is clearly a hint of complacency in his expression, I don't understand, what is he complacent about?Because of this little motorcycle, or because he is the owner of the motorcycle? Life is really full of drama, which makes me sad and happy.After going on the road, I finally understood Suolang Mucuo's smile.He is definitely a good racing driver!

Starting from Litang, it is a very good cement road.The hillsides on both sides are vast grasslands, and the grasslands in autumn are brilliant yellow. Under the hillsides, there are some Tibetan residences with red roofs. At first, it was a gentle uphill road.Suolang Mucuo didn't drive very fast, but it was enough to make me secretly gasp against the wind.About an hour later, we entered the beautiful Maoya Prairie. Surrounded by mountains, the prairie stretches to the foot of Haizi Mountain.Suolang Mucuo told me with difficulty that summer is the most beautiful season on the grasslands, the lush sea of ​​grass can feed all the cattle and sheep, and the wild flowers everywhere will leave a lingering fragrance after you walk through.He doesn't like winter, because all the beauty in the world is covered by the unchanging snow.

The Wuliang River in Haizi Mountain flows through the grassland, and there are swamps and wetlands everywhere on the river bank.On the tens of kilometers of grassland, you can see some yurts and tents. In addition to cattle and sheep that can often be seen in Tibetan areas, there are also otters and antelopes, and sometimes even red-crowned cranes. At the end of the grassland, there are rolling mountains along with the road, and the top of the mountain can be seen as white snow like fine salt.The little motorcycle was galloping all the way, I hugged Suolang Mucuo from the back, felt his body stiff for two seconds, and then put on full horsepower and rushed to the front of the road.

After a while, I saw a striking white pagoda among the yellow grasslands, the surrounding sky was covered by clouds, only the top of the pagoda was a piece of blue, like a road leading to heaven. Bypassing the White Pagoda, you will arrive at Haizi Mountain. The Yala Snow Mountain in the distance and the nearby Haizi Mountain complement each other. After descending the mountain, you can see the sister lakes connecting the two.Compared with the milk lake, which is full of tourists, it is more quiet and beautiful here. The sister lake is also called Karakule Lake.According to legend, a long time ago, the Pamir Plateau was a large flat pasture. The Kirgiz couple lived on the pasture. The wife passed away after giving birth to a pair of beautiful little daughters. The old shepherd worked hard to raise the two sisters. Although smart and clever, he is weak and sickly.One night, the old shepherd dreamed that the gods told him that there was a sun-moon fairy mountain where the sun rose, and there was a sun-moon mirror on the mountain. As long as you take a photo with the mirror, your daughter will be healthy and healthy.In order to cure his daughter's illness, the old shepherd walked towards the sunrise the next day. The two daughters grazed every day, looking at the small road in the east, until their hair turned white, their tears dried up, and they turned into two big mountains.This is the sister peaks. The white snow on the top of the mountain is their white hair, the glaciers on the mountainside are their tears, and the small snow peaks are their sheep. When the old shepherd came back, he found that his daughter had turned into a snow mountain, and the precious mirror in his hand fell to the ground and broke in two, turning into a connected lake. This is the sister lake.The old man stood quietly in front of his daughter, and it also turned into a snow mountain, which is Muztag Peak, known as the "Father of the Ice Mountain". There are many legends about Lake Karakul.This Wanghu Lake is as mysterious as its name. Whenever the weather changes, the lake water also changes color.A local fellow said: "Kalakule Lake is the mirror for Sister Peaks to dress up. In the early morning, Sister Peaks dress themselves up in different colors of clothing. Their figures are reflected in the lake, and the lake water naturally changes color." Suolang Mucuo parked his car here, pulled me to stand on the bridge, and wanted to take pictures for me.He smiled shyly and said, "It's beautiful here! You are beautiful too!" Continuing from Haizi Mountain, we passed a small town called Yidun. Due to the lower altitude, there are many more green cedars on the hillside.Some red Tibetan houses are built on the hillside, which is quite a bit of the artistic conception of "a little red among the green bushes". After passing Yidun, Suolang Mucuo was racing all the way, but I didn't feel afraid.On the road, we saw a lot of Tibetans going to worship. Every time I met someone riding a bicycle, I would search for Sun Hao and Meizi with my eyes. In this way, we bumped and approached Batang, the last county in Sichuan. After turning a corner, Batang County has appeared at the foot of the mountain.This is a county seat located on the grassland, and the mountains in the distance still have a touch of blue. After entering Batang County, the passers-by on the road greeted Suolang Mucuo. After I saw a hotel on the side of the road, I asked him to stop and book a room.Since I took the key, went upstairs, put down my luggage, and sat down, Suolang Mucuo has been walking around behind me. I said, "Thank you for sending me to Batang!" He shook his head, still standing still, not speaking. I asked, "Is there anything else you need?" He thought for a long time and said, "I want to invite you to dance." After speaking, he pulled me up and walked out the door. I didn't have time to pack it up, so I grabbed my small bag and followed him out the door. Suolang Mucuo took me to his home and had dinner with his family. His old mother was very kind, with the dimples on her face, telling me about years of ups and downs.She brought me buttered tea and tsampa.While I was drinking, she made tea beside me.First, the brick tea is boiled, and then the tea is poured into the butter tea bucket, and then peanuts, walnuts, butter and salt are added. Some families even bought a washing machine for the butter tea. (The washing machine is used as a mixer, and the laundry is still taken to the river to be washed with hands or wooden sticks.) His home is very simple, with no items, and various colorful patterns are depicted on the old cabinets. I didn't like drinking butter tea at first, but on the plateau, it is said that I have to eat the food of the local people to have enough resistance.So I ate all the tsampa in my hand and the buttered tea in the bowl.Suolang Mucuo was very happy that I liked their food, and asked me if I wanted more. I waved my hand, touched my belly and said, "I'm full." After dinner, Suolang Mucuo said a few words to his mother, and then asked me to go out with him. The old mother stood at the door and waved to us, still saying something. I sat on the back of his motorcycle and asked out loud, "Where are we going now?" Suolang Mucuo also answered me loudly: "Dance!" I have long heard that Batang is the hometown of Xianzi. It is a kind of song and dance that Tibetans like very much. Like Guozhuang, everyone forms a circle.It is said that Batang Xianzi is called "Gaxie" in Tibetan, which means "the dance of the Kham people". This dance has a history of more than 1,000 years. After coming out of Suolang Mucuo's house, we arrived at a lawn with seven turns.A roaring bonfire has risen in the middle of the lawn, and the dance has begun!Xianhushou leads the dance, and other men and women form a circle. When there are many people, they form several circles. They dance and sing to the rhythm of Xianhushou, and the cycle repeats. Suolang Mucuo's face lit up brightly. After hearing the string, his blood boiled and he couldn't wait to join the dancers.He pulled me towards the big circle, and people consciously gave us two seats.He quickly blended into the dance, but I couldn't, so I had no choice but to follow along while sneaking glances at the handsome guy next to me. The atmosphere of the Xianzi dance was strong, and everyone seemed to be celebrating some kind of festival, with joyful smiles on their faces.The women's bodies are as soft as water, and their long sleeves are swaying gracefully, while the men are soft and strong, chic and unrestrained. I haven't seen how their hands and feet move, but the rhythm is getting faster and faster.All the people seemed to be injected with stimulants, jumping more and more HIGH.I stumbled and could barely keep up with their rhythm. At the end of the song, everyone shouted in unison: "Xieya!" Under the reflection of the fire, the scene in front of him was like a dream.All the smiling faces, dresses, gestures, and every move are so perfectly blended together, giving people an unreal feeling. When the second song started, Suolang Mucuo wanted to pull me in again. This time, I insisted on watching from the sidelines.He didn't rush into the crowd until the dance music started. I saw colorful sleeves flying in the air, dozens of pairs of feet stepping, rubbing, and crossing legs neatly. In the crowd, Suolangmucuo turned his head from time to time, and when I saw it, I smiled back. Every time, as long as he sees my smile, he continues to dance happily. It seems that only in this way can he enjoy the joy of dancing with peace of mind. Batang Xianzi Dance is rich in national culture and reflects strong national customs. It is known as the "living fossil" of Tibetan music.Tibetan compatriots have danced the simple, elegant, melodious and cheerful melody for thousands of years to entertain themselves, eclectic and integrated.This is the charm of Tibetan culture. The mysterious place in the eyes of outsiders is actually a "sea of ​​singing and dancing".Although there are also difficulties in life and lack of material, Tibetans who are optimistic in nature, have pure beliefs, and are good at singing and dancing, in the face of grasslands and snow-capped mountains, use singing and dancing to thank life and the "gods" who care for their lives ".Happiness is their driving force, so everyone who goes to Tibet will be infected by happiness, even if your name is sorrow. This night, I felt a pure joy that I hadn't seen in a long time. Until he fell asleep in the hotel, there was still a sweet smile on the corner of his mouth.
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