Chapter 16 Tang Ke: The Sunset on the Yellow River that I missed

After entering Sichuan, every time you enter a road section in a different jurisdiction, there will be a crossing. Soldiers with guns blocked the road, and a vehicle was inspected, then released or detained.Probably because it is during the Olympic Games, many places are strictly inspecting. Whenever a soldier approached the car, Sensen Yuanyuan would bark out the window.Guan Yuan was called to get out of the car to check his ID card and driver's license. At this time, he had to shake the window glass, otherwise Sensen would rush out to protect his master.To be honest, every time I encounter a level, I feel very moved.Seeing Sensen's anxious look and staring at Guan Yuan's figure, he didn't relax for a moment, and a warm current rose in his heart.

When Guan Yuan returned to the car, Sensen would still yell at the soldiers, as if to warn them not to be disrespectful to their master.If a certain person was so arrogant, maybe it would cause a conflict, but the object was a puppy, and the soldiers didn't mind, instead they came over with great interest to inquire about their names and breeds. Completely different from the previous atmosphere, after entering Tang Ke, the air became tense.The shops and hotels on the side of the road closed their doors one by one, and even the residential buildings on the side of the road were guarded by General Tie. The deserted streets made our hearts chill.

It already belongs to the Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan.I remember that I passed by this area in 2004, traveling from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou.At that time, the roadsides were full of Tibetan fruit sellers, with plateau red flying on their faces, a scene of prosperity.Now this small county in western Sichuan is a bit bleakly quiet. After turning several streets and alleys, I finally found a hotel that was in business.Although the courtyard was deserted and lifeless, it gave us encouragement because of the open iron gate. After entering, there was no one at the front desk, so we opened our throats and asked, "Is there anyone? It's time to stay!" Finally, a lazy waitress came out and opened a room for us.Just as Guan Yuan and I put our things down, we found that the door could not be locked, so we called the waiter to change us to another room.

This hotel is not small, but it seems that no one lives there.I can't help but think of the black shops that often appear in Hong Kong movies.After changing the room, the lock was fine, but after packing up the things, I found that the faucet was terribly dry.Guan Yuan asked me to wait and tidy things up, and she went to call the waiter.The result was dramatic, and the waiter lazily said: "There is no water in the whole hotel." collapse!We had no choice but to go to the car to get mineral water, wipe our faces with improvisation, and then boil water to make a can of coffee each.If you go out again, you may not be able to find a place to stay, so you can only make do with it.

The room was also dirty, we took out our sleeping bags and huddled in them for a night of sleep. The only thing that attracts us in this Tangke is the beauty of the first bend of the Jiuqu Yellow River.On the hill behind Suokezang Temple, at an altitude of nearly 4,000 meters, feel the beauty of the water flowing like a fairy ribbon into the distance.It is said that Tang Ke is the transliteration of "Tang Concubine" in Tibetan, and the local people call it "the place where Tang Mu developed".There is a legend about the origin of this place name. A long, long time ago, Xiangman, a native official of the Haman tribe in Zoige, had a younger brother, Ma Zhaxiang, who was wayward and domineering. Xiangman couldn't discipline him, so he distributed some people and livestock to his younger brother and asked him to live in another place.Leaving familiar places and loved ones, Ma Tassiong felt very difficult.Later, following the advice of the tribal elders, he led everyone to graze on the grassland across the Yellow River, and thus got acquainted with Tang Re, a great native official.Seeing that Ma Tashiang was handsome and smart, Tang Re betrothed his beloved daughter to him.Since then, Ma Zhaxiang has established a business in the first bay of the Yellow River.With the development of animal husbandry and the expansion of the stockade, he created a large tribe.Because his wife is Tang Re's daughter and Ma Tassi'ang's wife, this place is conveniently called "Tang Ke".

When we got up early in the morning, we boiled water and filled the vacuum flask, then hurriedly left the dilapidated hotel and headed for Sok Tibetan Monastery. Suoke Tibetan Temple is located in the valley of the first bay of the Yellow River, which is a rare cultural relic in the Tangke area.We have introduced the temple culture in the previous attractions, but here, there is not much difference.It is still a golden prayer wheel, and the lamas in red are friendly and kind, but the Sok Tibetan Monastery has a more superior geographical location, surrounded by mountains and rivers, like a fairy dwelling.

Because I arrived early, there were not many tourists yet, but the ticket sellers had already gone to work.Guan Yuan and I were both young, so we negotiated the price with the girl who collected the tickets, and bought student tickets, 70 yuan for the two of us. Entering the scenic spot, climb along the wooden steps like a ladder, and every time you reach a high platform, there is a small pavilion or white pagoda.Everywhere, there are always one or two Tibetans circling clockwise around the White Pagoda calmly, holding a prayer wheel, bowing their heads and chanting, not knowing who they are praying for.

When climbing at high altitudes, it is always particularly easy to get out of breath.When we reached Banshan Pavilion, we decided to sit down and rest for a while.Sensen Yuanyuan ran around like having fun, and the mischievous little Yuanyuan followed the Tibetans around the White Pagoda. This is where I met the person from Lanzhou TV station yesterday.I sat down where I was, and saw a Tibetan girl in purple sitting alone on the grass outside the railing, with her back to us, looking at something in the distance.The picture is quiet and far away, and I secretly took it.I don't know if she is looking forward to the shadow of the sailboat at the end of the river day and night, waiting for it year after year, and I don't know when she will see the long-lost returnee.

In August, the sky is high and the air is crisp on the prairie. Between the heaven and the earth, the stretching river water is like a fairy ribbon, embedded in the green grass flawlessly, shining a holy and inviolable light. In the grassland, there are dotted with small pearl-like lakes, where the White River and the Yellow River meet and meander away, and occasionally birds fly by on the water.This is a poetic place.People like to come at dusk, just to see the beautiful scenery of "the sunset and the lone duck fly together, the autumn water is long and the sky is the same color".

I have been to the Yellow River Tourist Area in Zhengzhou, the turbid river water does not show the majestic spirit.But here, the water of the Yellow River that floats and twists forward has a silent gentleness.At this moment, I realized why people call the Yellow River the mother river. Sensen Yuanyuan attracted two Tibetan women, they smiled kindly and came to us. Following the direction of their fingers, you can see the ruins of a small ancient castle.We looked through the lens, and at a glance we could see the ravines on the edge of the castle.This place is called "Jiamukan".

It is said that this castle was built in the era of King Gesar, and the owner at that time was Qigaerli, a prince of the Han nationality.Therefore, "Jiamukan" means "Han Wall".He built castles, built the first bridge over the Yellow River, and led the people to plant rice on the river beach. Since ancient times, it is the feng shui treasure that will be plundered by the strong, and it is the same here, the war is endless.When Qigaerli was dying, he left his last words, put his body in the boat coffin, floated along the river, and rebuilt the castle wherever he anchored.As a result, the boat coffin stopped in Lanzhou, and his subjects built Lanzhou City there. After staying on the hillside for a long time, the chill is overwhelming.We took Sensen Yuanyuan down to feel the embrace of the Yellow River. At this time, the number of tourists gradually increased, and all kinds of vehicles were parked on the side of the road.Whether you know each other or not, when you meet on this narrow wooden step, you will smile and say hello. The moment the sun came out, all the cameras were aimed in the same direction.Between the thick clouds, it was like breaking through a cave leading to heaven, and streams of white light shone down, illuminating everything in front of us.In the face of the uncanny workmanship of nature, language always seems pale. After sunrise, we walked to the wetland by the river, picked up a handful of aquatic plants, stroked the cold water of the Yellow River, and felt the joy and joy of being part of nature. Sensen Yuanyuan ran to the water's edge for a roll, and then ran ashore, wet all over, very happy. Looking back on the hillside, at some point, mulberry smoke rose, colorful prayer flags fluttered in the wind, and snow-white dragons flew all over the sky. Longda is also called Fengma, which is Tibetan.The dragon is the vitality and the invisible god in the atmosphere of heaven and earth. Da is the believer who makes himself invincible under the blessing of vitality and god.The paper Longda was printed with fierce steeds, which were scattered by the men in the wind. I originally thought that there would be Mantian Longda only when the funeral was held, and he would be cremated in the end.But Guan Yuan said that it has now become a wish for auspicious fate. Time passed quietly, and the vicinity of the temple gradually became lively. Some local children were digging soil by the wall of the temple. It is said that each family of herdsmen in the vicinity will send one or two people to do voluntary labor for the construction of the temple.Together with them, the lamas of the monastery carefully protect the gods who guard them. Residents of Tangke Town, like other Tibetans, are burly and wear thick sheepskin jackets all year round.I remember on the way to Jiuzhaigou, the local tour guide said that because of the huge temperature difference between day and night in Aba, the Tibetans always work at sunrise and rest at sunset, so it is inconvenient for them to go home and change clothes, so they took off their sleeves when the sun was shining. Put it on when it's cold. Because the time is too long, I can't wait for the beautiful sunset of the Yellow River.We once again took a look at the distant Yellow River, then left here and drove to Hongyuan.