Home Categories Essays Tibetan Love: A Private Feast in Shambhala

Chapter 9 Movement Sangahai: The scenery is always on the road

On the way to Langmusi, there was a love song by Tsangyang Gyatso in the car. "On that day, I turned all the prayer wheels, not for salvation or for the next life, but only for your warmth; in that life, I turned mountains and rivers just to meet you on the way. Turning mountains and rivers and pagodas, Just to meet you on the way. The crane in the sky lent me a pair of white wings. I will not fly far away. I will return when I fly to Litang. The bright moon rises on the top of the mountain, and your face floats in my heart. Your beautiful The face quietly floats on my heart." Thinking of the tranquil smile on Shi Yan's face, Guan Yuan and I did not speak, and we drove all the way.

Some people, maybe if they miss it, they will never see each other again for the rest of their lives.There are some things that may never be said without opening your mouth. Everyone has some beauty in their hearts, and everyone has some regrets in their hearts.The scenery outside the window keeps receding, the mountains in the distance, the grassland nearby, the cattle and sheep on the roadside, all the real things gradually fall into the realm of illusion. Guan Yuan opened the skylight, lit a cigarette, and a breeze rushed in.Sensen and Yuanyuan each occupy a window, looking at this strange and vast landscape with fascination.

After a long while, Guan Yuan handed me a can of coffee and said: To relieve fatigue, I will be there at lunch time. I suddenly felt a little sad, and read Xi Murong's "Zen": When everything is over, I know, I will slowly forget you.The burden off my heart, please, please forgive me.Life is meant to be constantly wounded and constantly restored, and the world is still an orchard waiting tenderly for me to ripen.The sky is so blue, the trees are so green, and life can be so peaceful and beautiful. Guan Yuan sighed softly, and asked me what my plan was after graduation. Intend?It seems that there is no plan.When I was eight years old, my dad asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up, and I replied without thinking, "Freelance writer." I remember my dad laughed and asked me if I knew what it meant to be a freelance writer.I said I don't know, it should be because I don't have to go to work and travel around to write books.

Guan Yuan also laughed, and she said, we all love freedom so much, but we never thought about it, life is originally a circle, no matter how you turn around, you can't turn around the boundary. Yeah, it's ridiculous to think about it.We always have a compassion complex for ourselves, as if all the sadness is taken for granted.When I look back and think about it when I get old, I feel a little embarrassed to face my hypocrisy when I was young. Along the way, the sky is blue and the wild is vast, without the wind blowing the grass down, you can still see large areas of cattle and sheep, which line up with the white clouds in the sky.I don't know how many kilometers I drove, there was a hillside full of wild flowers on the left side of the road, and a large grassland on the right side.

I exclaimed so loudly!Above the quiet road, a large black bird flew across the sky.Guan Yuan said that it was an eagle.The eagle on the grassland will gallop down to catch the mice on the ground. We get lots of yellowish white sap on our windshield with every walk.The yellow ones are some bugs that crashed and died on the glass, and the white ones are probably bird droppings. Our speed was about 100 mph, not too fast, but it made these tiny insects bid farewell to the world forever in an instant.Guan Yuan kept turning on the wipers, and the insects were wiped clean. Life is like a fleeting moment, ten years after another ten years, and after a few repetitions, it will come to the end of life.After several land developments, even the cemetery of the original dead is nowhere to be found.I once read an essay called "The first to die gives way to the last".Sometimes when I think about it, life is actually cruel.

On the road, it has been a long time since I saw vehicles and herdsmen.Guan Yuan and I said in unison: "Stop playing for a while!" We parked the car at the rest strip of the road, grabbed the camera and small backpack and got out of the car.Sensen Yuanyuan was even more cheerful. As soon as the car door opened, he couldn't wait to rush into the embrace of nature. Cross the road to the opposite hillside, surrounded by wire fences, probably also a pasture.Guan Yuan and I found a damaged place and stepped in, walking all the way to the halfway up the hillside. The flowers on the grass are very bright in color, different from those sold in flower shops. They twist their waists delicately, like innocent little girls, dancing freely without fame and fortune.Everything in front of me is full of vigor and vitality.I was a little excited, and picked a small bunch of blue flowers casually.

Some are like iris, but with my limited plant knowledge, I can't name it. At this time, a motorcycle passed by on the road, and two boys on the car spotted us. Guan Yuan and I suddenly became nervous, staring at the place where Elantra stayed.Seeing the motorcycle slow down, the boy on the car turned his head and moved forward slowly.It wasn't until they drove away that we sat down on the grass and took pictures of each other. The background of this hillside is the blue sky. We squatted casually among the grass and flowers that are no longer lush enough, as if we have stepped into the world of fairy tales, and our hearts are gradually becoming simpler and purer.I can't help but take a deep breath of the rare clear air.

Sensen and Yuanyuan ran happily, chasing each other, like two balls of white pompoms running between the green grass.Seeing that they ran away, Guan Yuan called them back to him. In just a few minutes, the motorcycle came back again, and Guan Yuan and I stood up reflexively.They approached our Elantra, then moved away, and then approached the hillside where we were.They drove their motorcycles directly over the iron fence and rushed to a place a few meters in front of us. The two boys on the motorcycle looked about 14 or 15 years old, wearing Han clothes, and the two spots of plateau red on their cheekbones told us that they were Tibetan children.We just looked at each other, neither talking nor moving.

The Tibetan children looked at us in a daze, like observing monkeys in a zoo, with great interest.In the end, Guan Yuan spoke first.She asked them, is the grass not allowed in?The child shook his head, still staring blankly.Guan Yuan asked again, where are you from?Is it a herdsman?The child still shook his head and pointed to a direction far away.Guan Yuan told me that they were probably villagers from Zoige and could not speak Chinese. I asked them to take a photo of me and Guan Yuan, and I also took a photo of them riding a motorcycle.Later, they still stayed a few meters away from us.I think, do they see us like foreign friends in the eyes of people from small towns?I don't understand the language, but I am a little curious.

The communication between people usually lies in the eyes.I remember a man once told me that you must protect yourself when you go out. If someone conflicts with you or bullies you, you must stare at him with the most fierce eyes immediately. The child in front of him obviously had no malicious intentions, just staring at us in a daze.Guan Yuan and I relaxed and sat on the grass, breathing in the fresh mountain breeze.The two children were still riding on the motorcycle, looking at us without making a sound or leaving.It felt strange, like a silent confrontation. We took out some snacks and waved them over to eat.Children, you look at me, and I look at you, without moving for a long time.I took a small bag of candy and walked over, smiling and stuffing it into their hands.The child muttered a few words, then smiled and waved to us, said "Tashi Dele", and drove away in the car.

In fact, Tibetans are not as scary as we have heard. This point, I still have a deep understanding on the road behind. When staying in big cities, people rumored that Tibetans are mostly the embodiment of violence, carrying Tibetan knives with them, and stabbing Han people when they see them, and then wiping the blood and leaving, no one will hold them accountable.Just hearing it makes people feel terrified.However, when facing these two Tibetan children, it seems to see the most authentic face of human nature, which is simple and clean.Just a small packet of candy can get their sweetest smiles. On the opposite grassland, there are flocks of sheep grazing, and on the further hillside, there are black yaks roaming freely.Guan Yuan said that not far away is the Sangke Grassland, which is the main alpine meadow in southern Gansu.Legend has it that this is the place where King Gesar offered sacrifices to the gods and raced horses to become king.We will not go, because we will go to Hongyuan in Sichuan, which is the only pure animal husbandry county in Aba Prefecture where Tibetans live in concentrated communities. The most interesting thing about Sangke Grassland is the Xianglang Festival.The sixth month of the lunar calendar is the most beautiful season on the grassland.The first ceremony of the festival is "simmering mulberry", that is, lighting the branches and leaves of cypress trees, just like burning incense next to Labrang Monastery, and then putting ghee, fried noodles, Qula and other Tibetan favorite foods on the fire.Men would ride in circles around the fire and fire guns.The second is the arrow-inserting ceremony, where wooden arrows more than ten meters high are inserted into the large wooden fence above.Of course, every festival is indispensable for activities that Tibetans love, such as horse racing, yak racing, tug of war, wrestling, singing and dancing. In the strong atmosphere of the festival, the refined monks will also add some feelings of homesickness! They put their faith in religion, we put our faith in travel.The chanting in front of the first Buddha and a youthful and gorgeous adventure are both for the pursuit of inner peace. I heard from Guan Yuan’s friends who play outdoors that the Sangke Grassland is surrounded by mountains, like a soft carpet spread between the sky and the earth.The Daxia River flows from south to north, and the water and grass are luxuriant.Every summer, flowers of various colors are competing to bloom.In the grassland, there are herdsmen's tents scattered all over the place.However, the development there has been relatively complete, and there are tents for tourists to stay in and Tibetan meals for sale, and you can ride horses and yaks.Guan Yuan and I don't like places with a strong tourist atmosphere, with a commercial flavor, and everything is not pure enough.
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