Chapter 30 After reading "Principles of Cooking"

Recently, I read the book "Cooking Principles" written by Professor Zhang Qijun. In the book, there are four major categories of cooking, seasoning, preparation, and other ingredients. After reading the "Principles of Cooking" written by Mr. Liang Shiqiu on March 26, after reading it, I couldn't help but feel greedy. When I was young, I had the feelings of eating pigs and burnt millet, cooking dove and roasting goose. flock to the heart. The author has loved to eat Shengfang's big crabs since I was a teenager. After the Mid-Autumn Festival, if there are two or three days of holidays in a row, I can spare no effort to go to Shengfang to eat it.Shengfang is a water town near Jingu. The sorghum is full, the clear water is fragrant, and at the same time, the grass is full of grass, and the stream bank is fragrant. Because of the beautiful mountains and waters, it is said that there will be a young beauty with beautiful hair every year in Shengfang Yangliuqing area. Son.So every late summer and early autumn, there are always some warlords, rich, famous and wealthy businessmen who send special agents to visit the beauty pageants, openly or secretly. The secluded water town adds a lot of beautiful scenery.

Shengfang, the master cargo transfer expert at Zhengyanglou in Beiping, ran the most diligently, and was really willing to work hard.Every year, before the autumn crabs are weighed, I often go to Shengfang a few times to make friends with the big boss of the local fish shop and deal with them. When the plate is settled, as soon as the fish train from Tianjin to Peiping enters the East Station every day, The Zhengyanglou dispatchers always get on the truck first to pick up enough parallel imports, and then transport the crabs to the market for weighing!Therefore, whoever wants to eat good and fresh big crabs can only have a good meal at Zhengyang Tower.

Crabs can be divided into two types: crabs that are not in the tank are steamed in the basket without understanding the straw rope, and the crab meat is sweet and smooth; crabs in the lower tank are crabs that are stuffed with sorghum chaff and fed with egg yolks. Although the crab meat is still firm, the sweetness and umami taste is not as good as the former one.This is a talk about the experience of eating crabs by a friend in Chongwen Menya. It makes some sense, and it is not just a random cover. In Cantonese cuisine, the fish and shrimp must be vigorous, and the vegetables must be crisp. All vegetable stir-fried vegetables, whether it is kale or rape, should be torn into whole strands even if they are not whole, and placed around the dish, after the fat fish and big meat are full. , the guests want to see green vegetables with green oil, and everyone wants to pick up a couple of chopsticks to change the taste.If you are a little bit older and your teeth are rough, and you eat green vegetables, it will be miserable. You can neither swallow nor swallow, and you keep sawing up and down in the crop. Only those who are worthy of it can understand the embarrassing situation. come out.I think that through Professor Liang's wonderful pen, all Cantonese restaurants that seek to improve themselves may be able to improve in the future!

Lion's head can be called a famous dish in Yang Town. The locals don't call it lion's head, but peel the meat. The meat cooked by housewives has their own specialties, which is much better than that made by restaurants.There are a lot of things to pay attention to when making a lion’s head. Choose the ribs for the meat, cut it finely and roughly, three fat and seven thin, etc. In short, no matter how you say it, although we outsiders appreciate its smooth, fragrant and tender taste, we always feel a little thick and greasy. (especially white burnt).According to nutrition, fat meat is not always suitable for people above middle age.Recently, an old gourmet friend researched that in addition to using green vegetables as the base for making lion heads (some people use cabbage as the base, the meat will become greasy, which is not enough as a lesson), and a few chicken feet are added in the middle. Now the chicken feet of the broiler chicken are plump and Tender, not only absorbs fat, but also is full of vegetable fragrance.Lion's head is a dish that is suitable for rice but not for wine. With thick and fat chicken feet to chew on, isn't it suitable for both wine and rice?Friends who like lion head but are afraid of being fat may wish to try it once.

When it comes to fried belly, it's mouth-watering again. It's been a long time since I came to Taiwan for 30 years, no matter whether it's oily, salty or watery.Two years ago, I was in a northern restaurant because I saw the newly added water on the wall, but I ended up serving a bowl of black, which was Niu Baiye.Originally, there were no Xikou big-tailed sheep in Taiwan, only miniature kid goats. The goat belly is naturally small and thin, so there is no such thing as removing the grass teeth, and distinguishing the names of tripe head, tripe kernel, tripe board, and gourd. Of course Not to mention fried tripe kernels in oil and tripe strips in salt.

Although Taiwan Chuanxiang Restaurant is popular in stir-fried spicy chicken, Guanbao chicken, Zuo Zongtang chicken...but I have never eaten shredded bamboo shoot chicken.The tender chicken is called bamboo shoot chicken in Beijing. I still don't know why it is not called "tender" but "small".In the past, Jinan Spring Broiled Chicken with Bamboo Shoots in Beijing was cooked just right.Now Taiwan raises either hybrid chickens or broiler chickens. It is not easy to find a purebred native chicken to simmer some chicken soup. Chicken, the master chef has this kind of skill, where can I find the little bamboo shoot chicken!

When it comes to making dumplings, from the north to the south, the dumplings made by restaurants are not as good as the dumplings made at home, regardless of the dumpling filling or the way the dumplings are wrapped.Some people say that dumplings are good because they have thin skins, big fillings, and plenty of oil and water. That’s what a group of hard-working friends in the mainland used to say to satisfy their cravings.However, it is true that the dumplings should not be too big. The principle is to take one bite at a time, otherwise the juice in the stuffing will flow out and it will not taste good.

Dumplings must be packed and not squeezed (the picture of the dumpling restaurant is as soon as one is squeezed, so it is not good-looking or delicious). The flashing edge of the dumpling should not be too wide. It is enough that it can be pinched and cooked without cracking the mouth. The stuffing will not be wrapped too little.Some people like to add more sesame oil when mixing stuffing, which is the easiest to nausea. If you burp when you are full, and the smell of sesame oil rises, it will be miserable.Dumpling restaurants in Taiwan have become quite popular in recent years, and there are dumpling restaurants everywhere, but only God knows how many of them are up to the standard, and those who go there once want to go again.

When it comes to the soup used in restaurants, restaurants in the north use at most meat and bones, chicken and duck dowry to make soup, which is already the best choice.Some small restaurants don't prepare any good soup at all. If customers want high soup, they take lard and soy sauce, wash it with boiling water, and sprinkle some coriander on it. The so-called fairy soup is served to you.Southerners like to eat fish, shrimp and seafood, so they are more particular about the soup they prepare.In the past, Mr. Jiang Kanghu had a strange ringworm. Whenever he went to a new restaurant to eat, he would order a bowl of high soup first as a rule. From this bowl of high soup, he could judge the level of craftsmanship on the stove.All the restaurants along the North Riverside of the beach know Mr. Jiang's special hobby. The students in the Red House of Peking University once called Xijia the "King of Soup". !

People from the Beijing Banner will eat "vegetable buns", which is a way of eating left over from the hunting outside the customs by the emperor Taizu of the Qing Dynasty before he decided on the Central Plains.It is said that once they crossed mountains and rivers and came to a mountain depression where Laowan was separated. At that time, they ran out of food and were about to starve.Suddenly a flock of wild doves flew up, and they caught them one after another. The guards thought it was auspicious for Tianxi, so they made meat sauce, mixed it in fried rice with oil, wrapped it with vegetable leaves, held a sacrifice, and then let the accompanying soldiers have a full meal From then on, the kind of dove was named "Zhu Dove", and this kind of ceremony was called Zhu Dove Festival.Professor Liang said that it is roughly the same as the way of eating lettuce leaves that the Puritan royal family used to commemorate the martyrs’ lack of food in battle every early winter.

When I eat vegetable buns in Beijing, I sometimes feel that the cabbage is too big and the sides are too thick, so I use lettuce instead. The leaves are crisp and thin, which is more palatable than cabbage.Add some Cantonese sausage or char siu to the fried rice, which is more delicious than using minced meat tofu, especially the fried rice with Kanto braised shrimp sauce.As for eating vegetable buns with rice with mochi bean curd, I only heard about it, but I haven’t tried it yet. I think it must have a different taste. Unfortunately, there is nowhere to buy mo tofu made of mung bean dregs, so I have to go back to the mainland to eat it again. Professor Liang has too many associations for Mr. Zhang's book. After reading it, I have a lot of flavors, and I am addicted to it. I dare to organize it into articles based on what I know, and let's chat to quench my hunger and thirst!