Chapter 26 Donkey meat in old soup is delicious

A few days ago, a friend told me that there is a small restaurant on Yonghe Zhulin Road in Taipei called Lai Shun, which sells donkey meat. It can sell more than 100 catties, 400 yuan per catty, and the customers are mainly from the three provinces of Zhi, Shandong and Henan. I hope I will try it.When it comes to donkey meat, people in the north have a special preference for donkey meat, especially in the counties in eastern Shandong. Back then in Beiping, there was a kind of peddler who peddled cooked meat along the street with wooden cabinets on his back. There were two types: red cabinets and white cabinets: the red cabinets were dedicated to selling pig offal and offal, with dough baked on a low fire and boiled chicken (eggs are called chickens in the north). The wooden cabinet is painted as red as Wodan, so it is called a red cabinet.Sheep head meat, spiced beef, and donkey meat with salt and pepper are all white meat.I heard from people of the older generation that the cabinets used to sell mutton head meat and spiced beef are all white ballast wood without lacquer, so they are called white cabinets.As for donkey meat sellers, although they also belonged to the white cabinet line, donkey meat is not considered a normal meat, so they can only be sold in rattan baskets, and they are only allowed to sell on the street after lighting the lamps.When the warlords of the Beiyang government were in power, many people were addicted to donkey meat. Donkey meat was sold in the soup pot every day, and peddlers along the street were not completely nocturnal.

According to the gluttonous people in it, "Donkey meat is richer in taste than beef, with high calorie content. The fiber of the meat is thin and has no gluten. Eating donkey meat in winter can warm the stomach and prevent the cold." Peking donkey meat sellers also sell donkey kidneys. It is placed on the bottom of the basket, and only when customers buy it, it is taken out and cut. Because it looks like copper coins, it is called "qian'er meat". When cutting, it is often cut obliquely, so it is also called "oblique cut".There is a friend surnamed Liao from Baise, Guangxi, who likes to eat strange things. One year, he came to Beiping to visit relatives. He heard that there is donkey meat in soup in Beiping. , Go on the second floor, go to the third floor if you want donkey meat.There are only a dozen seats on the third floor, put 50 cents in the middle of the table and another 20 cents on the right hand side, and the clerk will tacitly take you downstairs to the soup pot shop to point out where to cut, Then cook in the pan.Because the so-called Duan Er in the government back then was the police station, and the management of the Tianqiao area where fish and dragons were mixed was very strict. Donkey meat could be sold in a big way, but donkey soup was not allowed by the law.Liao Jun didn't necessarily like donkey meat, he was just curious, but after seeing the horrible process of the donkey soup workshop, he didn't even dare to go back to the bamboo building, so Yang Changli went.

Zhucheng, Weixian County, Shandong Province, usually only sells pork Chaotian pot. As soon as Lidong, there are so-called beef old pots and donkey meat old pots on the market. The locals call them old pots, but they are actually the original soup.The old pots are deep and big, and at least twenty or thirty catties of clean meat can be stewed.There are long benches in front of the pot table, and the beef or donkey meat, which is both fat and lean, is cooked in the pot. It is oily, fragrant, and hot.The front of the pot is full of bottles and jars, which are full of sour, salty, spicy, spicy and five flavors, and guests can take them by themselves. The noodles are simmering around the pot, so that the broth can soak in at any time.The meat should be fatter or thinner, and the soup should be more oily and less oily. As long as you take care of the spoon, it will be delivered to you according to the customer's preference, so that you can feast on it.Some friends who went to the market even brought back a crock pot of old soup.At that time, Ke Shaotai, curator of the Qing History Museum, believed that a big pot dish made of old donkey meat soup with cabbage, tofu, and vermicelli was more delicious than any other delicacies.

Some places in the northern countryside do not eat beef. In the cold winter, some rich and noble families make a big pot of donkey meat with vermicelli and cabbage, and then make a few meatballs and cook them together in the pot. They were elated and devoured their meals, and the next day's work must be very hard and productive.That is the magic power of Lao Tang Donkey Meat! Li Zongyi, who was famous in Qingdao in his early years, was good at old and old Dan plays (later he went to the sea). He played a "Qingshi Mountain" in a play in Qingdao, playing Lu Dongbin who took the sword and cut the fox and sang it.He inquired with others, and said that Li Zhajinkui, an old student from Peking, was unique in this play, and he could sing the suona of the play in a particularly ambiguous manner.So he spared no expense to go to Peiping to hire Zha Jinkui to come to Qingdao to explain to him in detail, and they got along very well for two months.Zha wanted to buy a famous Weixian cane inlaid with silver silk, so he accompanied Zha to Weixian to buy it.Tired from walking one day, I ate donkey meat Chaotian pot by chance. It was dry for nothing. The donkey meat was soaked in old soup and I ate Zhajinkui with relish, thinking it was the most delicious in the world.When he returned to Peiping, everyone praised him, and later forced Mao Shengrong (the third elder brother of Mao Shilai, who sang face to manage Shilai) to persuade Mao Shi to come to Qingdao to sing a business drama. It’s not good, but the old soup donkey meat is enough to eat.” Later, when friends from the Peking Opera Tour came to Shandong, they would try the old soup donkey meat.Now there is donkey meat for sale in Laishun in Yonghe. I don’t know how many friends who love donkey meat in Liyuanhang have tried it.