Chapter 22 Hearth and suckling pig

If you don’t grow up in Beijing, or have never been to Beijing, if you talk about Lurou, you may not know what it is. In fact, it is barbecue pork.In the former Qing Dynasty, women only went to major restaurants to congratulate relatives and friends unless they participated in the festive celebrations of soup and cakes for weddings and birthdays.Since diners don’t go to small restaurants easily, some people give a roast duck or a piece of roast meat to others in order to get close. reason. In Beijing, roast duck is exclusively supplied by the so-called duck restaurants in Tianjin, such as Bianyifang and Quanjude. As for the roast meat, there is only a unique business done by Hezipu (also known as Sauce Knuckle Shop).Generally, most of the oven meat in the box shop is more than ten to twenty catties per square, and one or two squares of roasted meat is enough to sell every day.As for people who want to use whole pigs for the ceremony, you have to make an appointment with the box shop: the furnace meat at the box shop is about two or three o'clock every afternoon, and the meat is purely picked up with steel and roasted on the charcoal fire. Therefore, the skin of the meat just out of the oven is crispy and crispy, plump but not greasy.At this time, buy it home and dip it in soy sauce with wine, or fry it with scallions and serve it with rice. The rice is fragrant and the meat is delicious. It is a cheap and high-quality delicacy for a group of Beijing veterans.

Before the implementation of the slaughter tax, it was very popular in Peking to eat roasted piglets. The skin is crispy and crispy, and the meat is thin and tender.Ever since the carcass was stamped with blue stamps, it was almost impossible to eat roast piglets.At that time, Yang Yinhua, director of the Beiping City Finance Bureau, and I were drinking buddies at Tao Ran's reception. Once the wine was hot, everyone wanted to ask him to get a pig to satisfy their hunger. In the end, he was lucky enough to get a pig for everyone. Eat it up: Afterwards, he said that the slaughterhouse would only do it after paying the slaughter tax of a ten-jin piglet as a big pig. Usually, people can't eat roasted piglets, and this is the reason.

There is a dish called "Fried Ring Bell" in the Qingguan Shoushanfang, which is to take off the skin of the furnace meat separately, deep-fry it in the pan, and eat it with pepper and salt. It is also a delicacy with wine.There is also a short story about bombing the bell.It is said that Emperor Daoguang of the Qing Dynasty was diligent in government, loved the people, and was very frugal. He liked to drink with fried bells when it snowed heavily in midwinter.One day in the harem, I accidentally flipped through the meal list. After reading it, I was shocked and asked for a price of one hundred and twenty taels.He immediately sent the eunuch, the head of the imperial dining room, for questioning, and said that roasting a whole pig and putting it in a pot is indeed not an expensive dish.Although Daoguang did not delve into it, he never ordered the dish of fried bells from then on. Later, this incident was reported to be forbidden by the palace, and some big Shandong restaurants in Beijing added the dish of fried bells to satisfy customers. As for whether it is true Only God knows if it is fried from the furnace.

The Beijing Banner has a big gift, and there is also a whole roasted pig for betrothal. The bride's family also distributes the goose, wine, pastry, pollen, live sheep, and roasted pig in the betrothal gift from the man to relatives and friends to ask them to keep them.This kind of roasted pig has traveled all over Liujiucheng, and the original crispy skin of the pork has softened. Some of the recipients changed the whole square of pork into dice and stewed it with fresh pork of five species. fragrant.Sometimes three friends and four friends are invited to have a drink, saying that it can be a little joyful, and all the invited people come here happily.

Guangdong is also the province that pays the most attention to eating roast pork, and is good at choosing ingredients and firework.They are very strict in selecting piglets weighing no more than ten catties. After they are slaughtered and cleaned up, they are spread out and hung on the wall to air dry. Fermented bean curd juice, fermented bean sauce, and sweet noodle sauce are rubbed inside and out to let the flavor penetrate deep into the flesh (do not use soy sauce for cooking, otherwise the meat will taste sour).Some are roasted in an open oven, and some are roasted in a dark oven. Compared with the north, which is roasted with a steel fork, it is evenly roasted and saves effort.But Guangdong Roasted Suckling Pig, the skin is oiled and seasoned, and the skin is crispy and slippery. If it is a larger pig weighing more than 30 kilograms, it must first declare that it is not a suckling pig. As soon as the meat leaves the oven, it must be chewed immediately, and the skin will return after a little delay. Soft and unswallowable.Later, it imitated the northern roasting method with no condiments on the skin, and the raised particles on the skin were named sesame skin. It is crispy and crispy, but it is not easy to soften. Dip it in seafood sauce or oyster sauce.Cantonese people get married. During the three dynasties, when the bride returns to Ning, if the jade is perfect on the eve of flowers and candles, there must be a pig roasted in an open oven. If there is no milk pig, it means that the bride is not perfect. This is the most embarrassing thing for Kun Fang.In the early years of marriage, everyone paid great attention to whether there was a whole pig at home!

Liang Taishi Dingfen is famous for his delicious food. He passed on his special dish "Taishi Frog Chicken" to Yumaochun in Hui'ai Street, Guangzhou. The snack restaurant with only three or five seats turned into a sculpture in a few years. Liang Fenbi's big restaurant.There is a Moji restaurant in Huangli Lane, Guangzhou. He learned from Liang Taishi's roast suckling pig, and the sauce color and minced garlic used have secrets.According to Mr. Liang Junmo (Han Cao): "Boss Mo Youzhu was originally an elegant person. He used a large box of purple, red and eight treasure ink pads in his family to learn the secret recipe of Liang Taishi's craftsmanship. Since then, Mo's hawker has become famous for roast suckling pig. Yangcheng and the business flourished?” Later, Liang Dahuzi’s family passed on the secret recipe of roast suckling pig to Kuai Ruomu’s family, Da Geng, who lived in Cuihua Street, Beiping. Heh, once you chew it, it is as crispy as eating fried shrimp chips. It is indeed unique, and Mr. Kuai is quite proud of it.

I went to Thailand to travel in 1976. My relatives knew that I was a glutton for delicious food, so I specially asked me to eat at Zhujiang Dasalou. The crispy meat is tender and crispy.The seasoning is salty and sour, with a bit of lemony fruity aroma, which has a special flavor.Thai food pays great attention to seasoning, which is just casual snacks. The table is also filled with small dishes and bowls of various salty, sweet, sour and spicy seasonings. There is roasted piglet on the table. Exquisite. Several Cantonese restaurants in Taiwan, besides roasted pork, also sell suckling pigs without dismantling the open furnace, because the humidity in Taiwan is high in winter and summer, and the barbecued meat is hung on the roasting rack for more than an hour. The burning fragrance in the mouth is completely lost, and the taste is not enough.Therefore, although I have eaten open oven roasted suckling pig a few times in Taiwan Province, although the price is not cheap, it is quite disappointing.Looking back, no matter in Beijing, Tianjin or Guangzhou or Shanghai in the mainland, there is no phenomenon that the skin of suckling pigs in Ming furnace is soft or not crispy. Due to climatic factors, it has nothing to do with good craftsmanship.