Chapter 34 egg talk

The author's whole family, old and young, are very interested in eggs and have a preference, so the daily consumption of eggs is also relatively large.Back then in Peking, as long as the egg sellers yelled "big oil chicken" at the door, nine out of ten times it was not empty, and they had to take care of them and buy ten or twenty eggs.Since coming to Taiwan, brother Gu Yuanliang, a deceased friend, said: "For those who are over sixty years old, it is best to limit eating eggs to one egg a day. Egg yolks are the most likely to increase cholesterol, so they should especially fast." After listening to his advice, look at Reading various medical books and periodicals, I also earnestly persuade middle-aged people to eat as little egg yolk as possible. Therefore, although I don’t avoid it like Brother Yuan Liang, the consumption of eggs is indeed not the same as before. So prosperous.

Since Taiwan advocated the use of chemical mixed feed to feed various imported chicken breeds such as "Laiheng", "Luhua", and "Luo Daohong", the egg production rate has been greatly improved, but the egg shells have become as thin as paper. It will crack at the first touch, only the eggs laid by "Luodaohong" are red and soft, similar to the oily chickens in the mainland, and the eggshells are relatively solid.Chicken raising experts have repeatedly stated that eggs with red shells and white shells have exactly the same nutritional value. The price of red shell eggs on the market is two yuan more per catty than white shells. The truth is, we also "not slaughter sheep".However, psychologically, I always feel that since the eggshell is easy to crack, the nutritional content of the egg must be red rather than white.

The eggs laid by oviparous animals vary greatly in size. The eggs of geckos, snakes, sparrows, and quails that are often seen are all smaller than chicken and duck eggs.As for the bigger ones, the crocodile eggs I have seen are twice the size of duck eggs. As for the ostrich eggs, they are the king of eggs and the largest ones I have ever seen. Their size is even bigger than the head of a newborn baby. On a number or two.There is an ostrich egg in the house, which is placed in a Duobaoge and framed with red sandalwood. Dig a small hole and pour out the yellow and white.At first, I didn't know what kind of animal was born, so it was so big. Later, when I saw the eggs laid by ostriches at the Taipei Zoo, I realized that the huge eggs hidden in the house back then were laid by ostriches.

Because I love eggs, I also have a preference for egg fried rice.In Taiwan, the author went to Chiayi to serve the public. Because of the strangeness of the place, there was a record of eating 72 meals of egg fried rice in a row.My friend said that the fried rice with eggs may be too much for the stomach, but the food is pleasant, and it is not affected at all.Guangdong is the most particular about eating fried rice, not only to add shrimp, mushrooms, scallops, cloud legs, sausages, barbecued pork, and even optional. Mr. Liang Junmo (Han Cao) believed that it is best to use the "red silk seedling" rice produced in Zengcheng County, Guangdong Province for eating egg fried rice. It is soft and soft, loose and not sticky.The author once heard Prince She, Mu Yun, talk about using Zengcheng red silk seedlings to cook rice. He can eat two bowls of white rice without any side dishes. His Zunweng Mr. Elou was the governor of Zengcheng County. Of course, he has eaten rice. Among the most precious red silk seedlings.Although red silk seedlings are hard to come by when eating fried rice with eggs, it is best to use rice such as "Xiaozhan Rice", "Saigon", "Siamese" and "Zailai" from Taiwan. Sticky rice from Shanghai and Penglai rice from here are used for fried rice balls, which are difficult to stir-fry and even harder to taste. It is not as refreshing as eating a bowl of plain rice.

The essence of rice is important, but the cooking technique cannot be ignored. In southern cooking, rice is washed and cooked with an appropriate amount of water, so it is also called stewed rice.When cooking rice in the north, first boil the rice until it is half-cooked, then take it out immediately and wrap it in a drawer with cloth for steaming, so it is also called Laofan (steamed rice).The most important thing about fried rice with eggs is that the rice grains are loose, and fried rice is more natural and delicious than stewed rice.An old friend Chen Yannian has a philosophy of fried rice with eggs. The taste of fried rice with cold rice is completely different from that of hot rice.When the cold rice is broken up, use a spatula to press it. Do not use a spatula to cut it. The chopped green onion should be fried thoroughly. The egg and rice should be fried separately and then mixed together. fragrance.Egg fried rice is the most particular about heat, frying is opaque and tasteless, once the heat is high, the rice grains will turn hard and burnt, which is not only a waste of teeth, but also difficult to digest.

Once upon a time, there was a small restaurant on Huiai Street in Guangzhou called "Yu Yuchun". The fried rice here was called "Shangtang Fried Rice", which was second to none in Guangzhou. The cooking method was to sprinkle chicken soup into the rice while frying the rice, so that the delicious taste of the chicken soup could be infused. In the rice, but also to avoid the hard rice grains.However, if other families imitate it, it will not be as dry, wet, and soft as his home's.There is also a kind of fried rice with eggs called "gold wrapped in silver". The yellow clothes with golden strands are better than the fragrance. If you add some ham crumbs, the eggs will be fragrant. It is not as delicious as ordinary fried rice with eggs. Woolen cloth!Brother Chen Yannian had a set of deep-fried egg fried rice and a combination of experience and theory. Unfortunately, he died young, and his set of egg fried rice was lost.

Among the dishes purely based on eggs, apart from the fried yellow vegetables in the North Pavilion and the baked eggs in the Sichuan Pavilion, the most memorable one is the iron pot eggs in the Henan Pavilion.Beiping Houdefu and Yulouchun on the first floor of Langfang Toutiao are two famous Henan restaurants in Beiping.Sweet and sour tile fish, both of them are good, but Yulouchun can't make Houdefu with iron pot eggs. , not only creamy and fresh, but also long-lasting heat. Now in Taipei, there are no restaurants with tastes from all provinces, but there are still few restaurants with Henan tastes.A few days ago, I asked Professor Liang Shiqiu for advice. It is said that the original crew of Houdefu Stove came to Taiwan in 1950 and planned to resume their business. However, the timing was unlucky. It was just in time for the public to save money, and the catering industry was extremely depressed, so the restaurant could not be opened. become.It is a pity that we eat so much food, otherwise it would be great to have an additional Henan-style restaurant in Taipei.

Pickled salted duck eggs.Everyone knows that Jiangsu Gaoyou salted eggs are the most famous, because Gaoyou has a kind of duck that is good at laying double-yolk eggs. The salted eggs salted by experts who can pickle salted eggs are soft and red, and the fat reflects the golden marrow. You can poke the butter with chopsticks. how far.Therefore, when you travel to Gaoyou, you always buy a few to try when you leave, or buy some to take home as a gift to relatives and friends. Victory returned to the capital, leaving behind the salt warehouse in northern Jiangsu, which was stolen during the Anti-Japanese War, and the administrative office was also converted into a dormitory. Fortunately, most of the large and small warehouses were idle except for a few piles of sundries. Only then were they recovered one after another.Although the salt warehouse has not been used for eight years, the foundation stone is thick, and the accumulated brine is more than a foot thick. It is necessary to lift the stone to sweep the brine to facilitate the brine.An old colleague in the inn, Zhou Tangwen from Gaoyou, knew that the brine ditch had to be cleaned up, so he specially bought 500 double-yolk eggs from Gaoyou to congratulate him, and hired workers to pick out pickled vegetables and old soup (his family opened a sauce garden).First dilute the brine with pickle soup, mix it with the soil to make a thick paste, then use the thick paste to evenly paste the duck eggs, put it into a Shaoxing wine jar, and put it in a salt warehouse that does not see the sun.About 60 days in winter and 50 days in summer, it can be washed and cooked for meals. In addition to the yellow sand and fat feet, it is used to eat lotus leaf porridge in summer, and the jade liquid and golden syrup are refreshing and moist, which can be regarded as a must.

From south to north, duck eggs are the main salted eggs. It is said that Yang Xiuqing, the king of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, did not eat duck eggs, so he switched to eggs.Later, some people researched the old pickled rotten eggs, the yolk is black and has a unique smell, which is more popular among those who chase the smell. others.However, after nearly 30 years in Taiwan, all kinds of snacks in mainland China are not available, but no one has imitated the old pickled rotten eggs! Some time ago, I chatted with some good friends. Generally, housewives like to buy eggs from the vegetable market.Regardless of the size of the eggs, it doesn't matter if they are big or small, but most gentlemen like to choose small ones to eat.From my personal feeling, it seems that the small yellow is more than the small white, and the egg white is also tender.As evidenced by the red cabinets selling smoked fish and fried gluten in the street, the smoked chicken they sell is especially popular with customers. I feel that there is an indescribable special fragrance.

Recently, Hu Jida, a technician at the No. 1 Distillery of the Tobacco and Liquor Bureau, successfully used Shaoxing distiller's grains to try out bad eggs in his spare time. Now he is cooperating with the Hsinchu Food Industry Research Institute to freeze the bad eggs and make cans for export.The institute is currently chaired by Dr. Ma Baozhi, formerly of the Rural Rehabilitation Association. Ma is broad-minded, capable and sensitive.In mainland China, Pinghu, Zhejiang is the most famous for its bad eggs. Because Pinghu has many duck farmers and is close to the county where Huadiao wine is produced, it is very convenient to obtain bad eggs and koji, so it can be produced in large quantities.There are two types of Pinghu bad eggs, dry and wet. In terms of taste, the natural wet is better than the other.Before the Anti-Japanese War, the author ate bad stewed white meat in the Laojunmiao mining area. The bad meat used was obtained from Pinghu bad eggs. It is unexpected that the bad eggs can be exported to the Northwest!

Preserved eggs are called "Songhua" in the north. The ancient method of making preserved eggs is to use sticky soil, add rice husks, mix in soda lime and salt to dilute into a paste, wrap the eggs, and it takes three months to complete.At this time, the shell of the preserved eggs is peeled off, and the egg whites faintly show pine clouds and luxuriant leaves, so it is called Songhua.When I came to Taiwan, I ate preserved eggs. Not only did they have a trace of pine blossoms, but they also smelled of lime after entering the mouth.Later, the Health Bureau announced that the preserved eggs with lead oxide preparations contain too much lead, which is harmful to health, and its manufacture is strictly prohibited.But where the benefits lie, some people took the risk, and the lead preserved eggs seized by the police piled up like a mountain and were regularly burned by the Danshui River. The author happened to pass by there, and was shocked. Since then, I have seen the so-called chemical preserved eggs and never dared to eat chopsticks again.Recently, the preserved egg manufacturing industry has developed a kind of safe preserved egg, which passed the test of the Health Bureau.Generally, preserved eggs are mixed with southern tofu with three-in-one oil, potherb mustard, and dried shrimps. There are only vinegar-simmered preserved eggs from the northern restaurant, and three-color eggs (preserved eggs, salted eggs, Fresh eggs are stirred well and steamed).The author researched a way to eat preserved eggs in mainland China, which is to cut lean meat and preserved eggs into cubes, fry the diced meat first, and then add preserved eggs. This dish is meaty but not greasy, and it is suitable for rice and porridge. people advocated.Now that safe preserved eggs have been successfully trial-produced, housewives may wish to try to make fried diced pork with preserved eggs, which is both economical and affordable, for adults and children to change their tastes.