Chapter 19 Cabbage Wraps and Lettuce Pigeon Loaf

Some people may not know about vegetable buns, but when it comes to raw pigeon pine, the taste of Lingnan in Taipei City is at the right time.Lettuce pigeon pine is an indispensable and famous dish in Guangdong restaurants, so when it comes to lettuce pigeon pine, it will not be too unfamiliar to people who often run outside! A few days ago, I went to a Guangzhou restaurant with some friends in Taipei for a chat. A friend at the same table ordered a lettuce pigeon pine.On the surface, this famous dish in Yangcheng does not seem to have any profound meaning, but in fact it is a dish that focuses on knife skills and heat. Not every master chef in Guangdong can cook it properly!

First of all, the pigeons should be of a moderate size. The pigeon meat should be chopped into pieces immediately and fed with seasonings.The lettuce wrapped in pigeon pine is the best choice if it is only enough to hold, crisp and neat.Lettuce is the most prone to pests. It must have been sprayed with pesticides when growing in the field. Therefore, lettuce must be washed thoroughly with diluted gray manganese oxide, and then washed again with cold boiled water before it can be chewed by customers.At that time, Mr. Liang Junmo said: "Lettuce wrapped pigeon pine, emerald green and crystal clear, fragrant and not greasy." His comment can be called fair.

The so-called lettuce pigeon pine, traced back to its origin, actually evolved from Manchurian vegetable buns. Early winter outside the pass, once the beginning of autumn is over, it is tender and cool, the clouds are cold and the grass is fertile, and it is time to enter the hunting season.Back then when Emperor Taizu of the Qing Dynasty had not established the Central Plains, when he was stationed outside Shanhaiguan to face off against the Ming army, one day he was bored and took a group of soldiers to hunt around the camp near the left.In addition, the local natives offered more than a dozen fat "Zhu doves" (Zhu doves are a kind of wild pigeons with long wings and short tails, and extremely fat and tender meat. If someone catches them, they think they are auspicious for Tianxi, so they are called It wishes dove).But at that time, there were too many followers, and Zhujiu was not enough to distribute, so it was made into fried rice with oil, wrapped in cabbage and eaten, and everyone shared the blessing.Unexpectedly, this way of eating is not only plump and refreshing, but also cool and fire-reducing. Later, when it entered the Central Plains, "Zhujiu Caibao" was included in the imperial dining list of the imperial dining room.Because the autumn hunting started that year, Zhujiu Xianrui was on the fifth day of the seventh month, so the fifth day of the seventh month was later regarded as the festival of autumn hunting, and the cabbage bun was listed as a delicacy for the meal, and the custom of eating vegetable buns spread from then on. down.

The winter in the northern country is cold and harsh, and the inner court started a fire on the first day of the ninth month of the first month. It was not until the first day of the second month of the following year that the stove was officially stopped and the fire was withdrawn.If you don't leave the stove all winter, anyone will feel dry mouth and uneasy triple burner.During the period when Empress Dowager Cixi was listening to the government behind the curtain, because of internal and external conquests, her anger was too high, and if she felt unsatisfactory, she asked the respectful room to pass on the board, and maybe a eunuch or a court lady would be unlucky.The Empress Dowager is full of anger, and the imperial pharmacy has a lot of special medicines such as "Huanglian Shangqing", "Yinqiao Detoxification", "Golden Clothes Wanying Tablet", "Eight Treasure Purple Golden Pill" and so on. Dare to speak to the Queen Mother, please ask the Queen Mother to buy some safety medicine?It happened that there was a deacon and eunuch who usually shredded raw cabbage and mixed it with Sanhe oil and ate it violently when he was angry, and his anger disappeared immediately.He thought that if the Empress Dowager could eat more raw cabbage, wouldn't it be possible to remove the gas from the fire and the internal heat accumulated in the internal organs all at once?So I whispered to the chief eunuch and everyone, and one day the queen mother had lunch, and a nine-nail food plate with green snow and yellow sprout leaves appeared in front of the imperial court.Cixi ate vegetable buns. Of course, she couldn't find Zhujiu outside the customs for a while. The imperial dining room used fat pigeons raised in the palace to fill Zhujiu. Who knew that the fried pigeon pine was as plump and fragrant, and it was delicious. Since then, vegetable buns have become Shangfang Yushi.Until later, when the Qing Dynasty abdicated and the imperial concubine Duankang was in charge, cabbage buns were sometimes listed on the meal list!

According to the elders of Liang Jiean in Panyu: "In the early days, Guangzhou restaurants did not have lettuce and pigeon pine. Since the Yihequan Rebellion, Cixi Guangxu hurriedly drove to Xi'an, and Cen Chunxuan was escorted by his retinue. When the turmoil subsided and returned to the capital, Dimeng offered to eat cabbage buns. Cen eats it to his heart's content. Later, when he opened his residence in Baiyue, he suddenly thought of eating cabbage buns. But Guangdong does not produce Chinese cabbage (in Guangdong, Chinese cabbage is called Huangyabai), and the cabbage is shipped from the north. At that time The boats to Nanyang are often out of work, and Huang Yabai is out of stock from time to time. The general is naturally irritable, so the staff is quick-witted and use lettuce instead. Lettuce wrapped in pigeon pine is here to eat." Liang is from Cantonese and once worked in the inner court. Judging from this passage, it is believed that there is a connection between lettuce pigeon loose and cabbage bun.

The dishes eaten in the north like to use sauce, especially when eating cakes and pasta. Yellow sauce, sweet noodle sauce and so on are indispensable. With a piece of scallion on the roll, it seems that you are not eating spring pancakes.As for eating vegetable buns, egg fried rice wrapped in vegetable leaves, of course, you can’t add too much salt, even fried tofu with shrimps should be light, whether it’s stir-fried Zhujiu or fried pigeon pine, it shouldn’t be too heavy .A Chinese cabbage leaf may contain three bowls of fried rice with eggs. When eating, pay attention to wrapping it with your mouth and mouth. You don’t have time to pick up vegetables. Therefore, when eating cabbage buns, sauce is indispensable, and garlic is even more indispensable. On the one hand, it can reconcile the saltiness, on the other hand, it can enhance the flavor and fragrance, and it also has a bactericidal effect.Vegetable buns for the inner court meals are naturally accompanied by mashed noodles and garlic. The strange thing is that the mashed noodles and garlic are not brought to the imperial dining room for presentation, but are prepared and served by the palace supervisors on duty.Back then, ordinary people paid attention to eating and drinking. They bought noodle sauce from Xidinghe, Laotianyuan, Dahulu and Liubiju. If anyone could buy some noodle sauce from the inner court, it would be Tianchi Dan. Li, Gesheng pepper pulp.

It is true that the inner court supervisor dared to make sauce in the palace, and it has its own history.It is said that since the Qing government entered the Northeast to lay down the capital of Beijing, and worshiped ancestors in the suburbs at the age of year, it has always followed the Manchurian custom to make a kind of butter cakes for offerings, especially for the Spring and Summer Zongshe Grand Sacrifice. Thousands of butter pastry.After the sacrifice is over, blessings should be sent to the gods, and the cakes in the sacrifices should be distributed to the people of Yeting.Because the quantity is too much, no one can finish it all at once, and they get tired of eating for a long time, so a group of eunuchs with quick brains came up with an idea.They bought all the pastries that were allocated to Sanfu.

The main thing to make sauce is to have a large place to dry it, and it needs to be dried thoroughly and frequently. There are many squares in the palace where sauces can be dried, but it would be too indecent to use it on a grand occasion.Fortunately, they figured it out, and they actually thought of installing jars in front of a row of short and small group houses behind Kunning Palace to make sauce.This row of group rooms was originally a small couch for the eunuchs on duty to rest and stay (the temporary residence is called a small couch for the officials), and the sauce was made outside the house. , it is not conspicuous, but also easy to take care of. For eunuchs, it is really ideal.The raw materials for making baobo, the noodles are fine flour from flying baskets, the oil is stuffed with alcohol paste, pure fat fine noodles, the sauce made, although it is not from Tianchu, but compared with the unstrained spirits sauce on the market, the taste is better than that of the market. How many times did it cost.

In the beginning, eunuchs often gave this kind of "body self" to princes, ministers, relatives and relatives to try something new, but who can eat it for nothing with lime on their mouths!There are often generous rewards, which has become a big income for the eunuchs.There is a group of friends who are good at showing off, and they always have to go out and buy some so-called "palace sauce" posted by eunuchs to eat vegetable buns and spring pancakes, which is considered good enough!