Chapter 11 Braised noodles

For three meals a day, southerners mainly eat rice, while northerners mainly eat pasta and miscellaneous grains.In addition to steamed buns and pancakes, most of the pasta eaters eat noodles. Eating noodles is nothing more than fried sauce or stewed.A few days ago, brother Bai Tiezheng wrote an article on "Zhajiang Noodles", let's talk about fried noodles today! There are two types of stewed noodles: "clear stew" and "mixed stew". The clear stew is also called "boiled stew", and the mixed stew is also called "thickened stew". Although the method is different, the taste in the mouth is also different.The fried sauce noodles in Peking, Yilong outside Qianmen, Runminglou in Dong'an Market, and the stove in Longfu Temple are all fried well.As for mixed meat, take Beiping as an example, from a large restaurant with a grand hall to as small as a door-to-door two-meat shop, the meat that comes out of it will explode as soon as it is stirred, and some people are afraid of such a big mess. Add gorgon powder, the stew will not be boiled naturally, but it can't be mixed.

No matter whether it is clear or mixed, it is all about good soup. Clear chicken soup, white meat soup, and mutton soup are all good. Dingguagua is boiled with diced mushrooms.In addition to dicing white meat or mutton, shiitake mushrooms, mushrooms, dried shrimps, eggs, and fresh bamboo shoots, people in Peking also add some carrageenan, and finally sprinkle some freshly ground white pepper and fresh coriander. Spicy and fresh, the ingredients are complete. It must be more important than ordinary soup to make stew, otherwise it will feel bland and tasteless once it is added.Since it is called a stew, thick ones are worthy of the name, so only thickened ones are considered authentic.The procedure for thickening the mixed stew is more complicated than that of boiled stew. The ingredients are similar to those of boiled stew, except that carrageenan is replaced with fungus and yellow flowers. Eggs should be beaten evenly on the stew. Sea cucumber, also known as three delicacies.All the ingredients should be sliced. Before cooking, fry some prickly ash oil with an iron spoon, and pour it on the marinade while it is hot. With a prickly sound, the peppery fragrance will overflow, and it will be considered a success.

Eating marinade is different from eating fried sauce.When eating braised noodles, shredded cucumbers, carrots, spinach, pickled vegetables, edamame, and shredded lotus root can all be eaten as noodles. If you eat thickened stew, all noodles will be free.When eating boiled braised noodles, you can make a nest of silk (thin noodles) with one more buckle, and a curtain flat (thick noodles) with one less buckle.If you eat noodles with mixed stew, it is better to be thick rather than thin. The noodles must be overwater when they are cooked.Mixed stew is well hooked. After eating a bowl of noodles, the stew in the bowl is still solidified and not splashed. Only this kind of stew is qualified. This is easy to say, but not easy to do.

The great-grandfather Ci was the most particular about eating stewed noodles during his lifetime, and he could only pass the mark if he did not stew the soup. When I met the old man eating stewed noodles with him, I felt nervous, afraid of being reprimanded, and immediately put the noodles in my mouth. If the chopsticks are not turned, the stew will not be too hot.Once having a drink with Yan Ju and Kunzhong at Dongxing Building, Yan San ordered a stewed three delicacies, and pointed out that the double sale should be served in a sea bowl, with a few noodles to take away. How dare he use the stewed three delicacies in Dongxing Building Braised noodles are really not bad at all.But in another way, let the stove hook a bowl of three delicacies stewed noodles, also use the best black sea cucumber instead of sea eggplant, it is still as good as it is, and it is hard to guess.Brother Yan was in the Mongolian and Tibetan Academy back then, and he was also a well-known gourmet expert. As for northern food, the two brothers have studied it well.

One summer, after leaving the Zao Yamen, everyone went to the Shichahai lotus market to spend the summer together, and mentioned the matter of eating braised noodles.Yan San said: "All the stews in restaurants big and small in Peking are turbid. I haven't eaten satisfactory mixed stews in any restaurant!" Mr. Sun Jingsu who was present here lived in Jishuitan. There is a two-meat shop, every morning, there are always a few pots of stewed mutton, which are specially used as toppings for tofu nao sold in the street. If he brings it the first day, he can save some stewed noodles to eat.At that time, because the weather was too hot, the author was crowded in the hut in Qiuai to eat braised noodles, which seemed to be the wrong time.Uncle Xi Xiao Ti Kun Zhong was greedy and curious, so he reported it to everyone within a few days after hearing it.Mr. Sun Jing's taste is indeed true, the brine drawn by others is not only coagulated but not cloudy, but also plump and moist, mellow and palatable, and a good spoon.Not long after, Qi Rulao and Xu Hansheng also went to taste it, and they also thought that this kind of mutton stew was a delicacy that other restaurants could not make. Unfortunately, before the lotus market closed, there was the Marco Polo Bridge July 7th Incident.Since then, everyone has been running north and south, wandering around the world, enjoying the blessings, and only thinking about it.

Eggplant marinade.I usually eat eggplant stew, but I have only heard of this way of eating eggplant stew, but I have never tried it.Brother Liu Bannong of Peking University was most fond of searching for oddities and visiting victories during his lifetime. He heard that there were two ancient relics in Changzhuan Temple, an ancient temple in Ming Dynasty in Xiaxie Street outside Xuanwumen. A three-foot-high pagoda made of ancient red copper and sand gold.Because Shejian has always been in contact with Changzhuan Temple, and the abbot of the temple, the old monk Shouquan, is also a diplomat with the author, so he set a time, and Brother Bannong invited three archaeological experts to go together.They thought it was a worthwhile trip to discover some unprecedented small costumes from this happy face.At the same time, at noon, Master Shouquan prepared noodles with eggplant stew. The eggplant was picked and eaten in the nearby vegetable garden. The sesame oil was squeezed by Jietai Temple itself. This kind of eggplant stew is much better than the three delicacies stewed in various restaurants.

I’ve been in Taiwan for decades, but I’ve never tasted good enough stewed noodles. It seems that Dalu noodles have become “Da Lu noodles” and even the name has been changed. .A few days ago, I was eating at a Pingjin restaurant in Kaohsiung. The young man who ran the hall spoke pure Mandarin, and asked him why the braised noodles were changed to Dalu noodles. He said that in recent years, most of the restaurants were compatriots from Taiwan and provinces, and they were called Dalu. The face is pleasing to the ear, which is called the Romans do as the Romans do.Do you think restaurants with tastes from various provinces have gone to the countryside to do as the Romans do, so the dishes can still be good?