Chapter 3 Sauce Knuckle·Stove Meat·Smoked Goose Wing

When I was a child in Beiping, I liked to eat sauced elbows, roast meat, and smoked wild goose wings made in the box shop.Every afternoon after school is over, you have to walk past the Tianfu Sauce Knuckle Shop in Xidan Archway. Everyone calls it "Sauce Knuckle Shop". At first glance, there is only one door, which is not very eye-catching. .Tianfu's sauced elbow is not only extremely rotten, but due to the old soup for many years, it is salty, loose and rotten, with fat and thin, very human taste.When I came home from school, I was hungry and my appetite was the strongest. The "fork fire" branded by Tianfu Baoyuanzhai just came out of the oven. I baked a pinch of fat and thin sauced elbows. The fat part melted when it was hot. A mouthful of oil flowed down the mouth.All the friends who have eaten Tianfu sauce with elbows and hot fire, when they chat together, there is no one who is not salivating.

Furnace meat is also a product of the box shop, which is divided into two types: hanging furnace and fork roasting.There are no box shops in Taiwan, so naturally you can’t eat roast meat.The roast meat is only released near the time of dinner. Xinjiang Governor Yang Zengxin is from Mengzi, Yunnan. He said that his hometown can make a kind of roast meat, which tastes the same as the roast meat in Peking. It is best to dip the freshly baked roast meat in it. He can eat three bowls of rice in a row, which is more satisfying than inviting him to eat agarose dish.In fact, if you eat hot pot in winter, add a few catties of meat to the pot. Although the skin of the meat is not crispy, the soup in the pot will not have a umami taste.

Smoked goose wings are actually smoked pork ribs. When smoked, a layer of red yeast rice is applied. It is eaten in the north, which is different from Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Brown sugar or tea is used in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, while sawdust is used in the north.It is said that the Sichuan camphor tea duck is a combination of the north and the south, but it has a unique flavor.Smoked goose wings are 100% appetizers.Beiping is a city with four distinct seasons in spring, summer, autumn and winter. Every autumn is really a rainy and a cold. After several consecutive autumn rains, when the weather is already cold and the weather is not cold, buy some hot fried chestnuts with sugar, and come to him for half a catty of smoked chestnuts. Goose Chi, make an appointment with three or five confidantes, and enjoy the autumn rain with a low-level drink. Those who have never tasted this kind of taste will not be able to appreciate the elegance of the sentiment.If you have endless smoked goose wings, tear off the meat from the ribs, stir-fry them with bean sprouts and some yellow sauce, and use them as a side dish for sipping porridge, which is even more special.Looking back now, it really makes people feel endlessly low.The poet Lin Gengbai said that there are many indescribable sentiments in Beiping. Drinking smoked wild goose wings and listening to the autumn rain is something that cannot be enjoyed elsewhere.

Now there are more and more restaurants in Pingjin, Taiwan, and almost all of them sell sauced meat and grilled meat. The author remembers that when I was in Beiping, the fatter ones were called sauce elbows, the thinner ones were called Jiangweihua, and very few were called sauce pork. sauce meat.When Qi Ru was alive, he thought it was very knowledgeable to change the name to sauced pork. Since it is not called sauced elbow, different names have different tastes. Who can say that it is different from Peking's sauced elbow? It is completely different! Manchurian customs, when a girl is betrothed to someone else, she will be given a small order first, which is to send a pair of purses, and then the official date will be released.In addition to pig, sheep, goose and wine, the man gave the woman a betrothal gift, and other people also gave roast piglets. After the woman received these gifts from the man's family, she had to distribute these gifts to relatives for their own use.Of course, the more the dowry is kept, the more generous the gift will be when the girl leaves the cabinet in the future.Roasted piglets are a popular betrothal gift. Cut off a catty or two of roasted piglets, first remove the crispy and crispy skin and fry them in oil. When you chew them, they are crispy and fragrant, so they are called "deep fried piglets". bell".It is not bad to cut the skinless roasted pig into large slices to boil Chinese cabbage, and add tofu vermicelli.There are also people who specially go to the box shop to buy furnace meat and boil Chinese cabbage!

Guangdong is the most particular about eating suckling pigs in the open furnace. When a girl gets married and returns home for three dynasties, if the man has a suckling pig in the open furnace as a gift to his in-laws, it means that the bride is really a big girl. some.If the lady returns home without a golden pig to accompany her, the woman will feel ashamed, and there will be no excitement.In the early years, whether the new aunt in Guangdong Province had a roast suckling pig when she returned home was still a big deal!This kind of suckling pig pays attention to the use of 20 to 30 catties of piglets, which are roasted red and oily, with thin and crisp skin and tender and thin meat.Friends who know how to eat in Guangdong say that the braised suckling pig with skin and fresh pork is called "Fugui Shuangou". Not only does it taste plump and not greasy, but it also has a special taste. If you eat this kind of rich and noble double owl, you can also transfer good luck!

In the past ten years, a lot of Cantonese-style wine restaurants have opened in Taipei, and it is rare to see those whose cooking skills are really up to standard.There are a few restaurants that boast that their roast meat is comparable to that of Hong Kong and Kowloon, but after trying it, the old gourmets did not see any success.After careful research by those gourmet experts, it is not that the craftsmanship of these master chefs is unsophisticated, but that Taiwan has an oceanic climate, and it is on the Tropic of Cancer. It is hot and humid, even in winter, especially in Taipei.Just think, stuffing sausage liver sausage, making bacon and duck, in a humid climate, even if you are good at it, you can't make enough standard roast meat.The author visited Thailand the year before last, and the Cantonese-style restaurants along Yaowarat Road and Shilong Road in Bangkok’s Chinatown, the chefs they invited were not necessarily better than our Cantonese chefs, but their roast pork and open-fired suckling pig, They are crispier and crispier than Taiwan suckling pig, and even the sausage tastes good enough. Even the roast duck cooked in Bangkok's Jiangsu-Zhejiang restaurant is crispy, slightly better than those roasted in northern Taiwan restaurants.It's not that our craftsmanship is not as good as others', but that the air humidity is too high. Once the duck comes out of the oven, it's enough to use a cart from the kitchen to put the roast duck on the glass cover and push it to the side of the table.During the tossing and peeling of the skin and the meat, the duck skin was caught in the fire, and nine times out of ten, it would not be chewable, so who can blame it!Duck is like this, so why not roast pork?Recently, there is a Runji restaurant on Minsheng East Road. The owner roasts the roasted pork by himself, only three to five catties each time, and eats it now.It is only about ten feet away from the kitchen to the roasting rack. This kind of roasted pork is thick and crispy in the mouth. Since I lived in Taiwan, the roasted pork I have eaten is comparable to that of Beiping.

As for the smoked wild goose wings, I have asked about it in several restaurants in Taipei, but not many people know about it.Even if I know it, I don’t have a deep impression. If you ask a shop that sells smoked marinated sauce, nine out of ten will be vague.It is expected that this delicious wine will have to go back to Beiping to eat it, so that I can tear the smoked wild goose wings while drinking Haidian Lianhua Bai!