Chapter 10 A Few Unforgettable Special Dishes

Going to a restaurant to order food is of course not a big question, but if you go to a restaurant in which province to order which province's food, if you order it right, the person in charge of the spoon will know that you are a diner. Don't dare to spend money on the account, and guarantee you a meal of high-quality and cheap food that is delicious and filling.However, there are some very common dishes, or because of historical origins, regional anecdotes, and different provincial origins, they have a strange dish name, which confuses the guests who don't know the details. Now I will write a few of what I know. Come out and laugh at the friends who are eating.

"Jump in a hurry".Dongxing Restaurant is one of the best restaurants in Shandong in Beiping. It is very good at frying, stir-frying, simmering and deep-frying.Xunqing Baylor Zaitao went to Dongxinglou for dinner one day and ordered a "Double Crisp", one of which was crispy duck gizzard, which was cooked just right, and the other crispy belly was too hot.When I asked about the stove, I realized that the problem was the pot that was cooked at the same time as the gizzard.At that time, he pointed to the person in charge of the spoon and said: "Although the duck gizzard and the belly need to use fast fire, but the heat should not be the same. When they are put into the pan and stir-fried together, the heat is enough for the belly, but the duck gizzard is not enough heat. Wait until the duck gizzard is enough. After the fire, the stomach is too old to chew. Such a good craftsmanship, if the gizzards are cooked together, the two can’t be perfect. Therefore, the double crisps must be popped separately, oiled separately, and then thickened and served on the table.” Tao Belle has always been informal, and after finishing speaking, he rolled up his sleeves and cooked in person, standing by the stove as the supervisor chef.When the two master chefs saw that Lord Baylor entered the kitchen, they immediately became full of energy. They tried their best to raise the stove to a height of one foot, stir fry with a spoon, divide first and then recombine according to the instructions, and put them on the table for a taste. , Fragrance, taste, and crispness are all bad.

In view of the success of the instruction, Tao Belle said with a smile: "Look at you jumping in a hurry. It's really hard for you. I will reward you with 20 yuan per person. Buy a pair of shoes to wear!" It has become a special term for Dongxinglou's double crisp! In the early years, salt merchants in Yangzhou had both money and leisure, so they paid much attention to appetite.Once when I went to Yangzhou for business, Zhou Songli, a local ticket dealer, knew that I was from Peiping and had tasted it before, so he asked the salt restaurant to clean up the customers, and the chef studied one or two ingenious dishes to show off.When a dish was served, he said: "Northern restaurants pay attention to eating 'lapi'. Today I asked the kitchen to make a 'meat lapi'. Please try it." It has nothing to do with Fenpi. The so-called "Fenpi" is actually taken from soft-shelled turtles.The soft-shelled turtle is about the size of a horseshoe, and only its skirt is taken, smashed to remove the ink, and bleached into a white translucent body. If you leave dregs, you will only feel fresh.The delicious food is unique, and it is true that foreign meat was cooked once, and I have never seen anyone who can cook this dish since then.

Shaanxi borders the western frontier, with many windy springs and bitter cold winters. According to ordinary people's imagination, there must not be any exquisite food and drink.However, since Ming Confucian Wang Shiqu and Han Yuanluo advocated the so-called Sanyuan School in Sanyuan, they have outstanding people, intensive research and extensive examination, and their style of writing has flourished.In terms of diet, Lanyao Yuzu is naturally exquisite.The bowls of noodles that Sanyuan people eat are similar in size to the bowls of Danzi noodles in Tainan, and the dumplings made by Sanyuan people are not much bigger than the joint of a thumb.Although they don't pay much attention to delicacies from mountains and seas, they are not inferior to Jiangnan in their attention to knife skills, heat and dishes.

The restaurant in Sanyuan is called Mingdelou. Although it is not surrounded by Ding and Yi, the Xianglian dishes are quite elegant.The shopkeeper is called Zhang Rong, and he said he learned the craft in Ningxia.In Sanyuan, he is considered the No. 1 celebrity chef in Tianzi.On the first day I ate Baifeng meat sandwich pancakes in Mingde Building, the pancakes were beaten loose but not oily, and the meat was plump but not greasy. When I praised it, the shopkeeper Zhang thought I was talking about the taste, and I was excited He is going to cook by himself, and invited me to eat his "Haier Bang" the next day.His "Hai Er Bang" really stumped me, and I couldn't figure out what Hai Er Bang was.

The next day when the Haier pork belly was on the table, it was braised big elbow, but it was more fragrant than ordinary stewed pork elbow, and it also tasted like dried prawns, but there was no dried prawns in the sea bowl!The meat is multi-layered, and the skin of the elbow looks oily and shiny, and it is not greasy in the mouth.Shopkeeper Zhang said that this dish was learned in the Ningxia Dutong Yamen. His master "Yike Tanbuqi" was the head chef in the Yamen at that time. It was brought to Ningxia by the former Dutong Yu Langxuan from Shengjing. His master was The Xianglan Banner is full of people, and Haier Bang is a Manchurian dish.The ancient method of burning elbows in Manchuria is to use a whole bottle of rice paste wine and dried white fish from the Songhua River as a base to cook.When the elbow is stewed until it is soft, the smell of wine and fish will be absorbed into the elbow, and the fat of the elbow will be absorbed by the dried fish, so the elbow will contain the aroma of fish and is not greasy; if the dried fish is taken out, if powdered Once the sacrificial cabbage is boiled, it is another delicious and affordable meal.Although there is no deep meaning in this dish, the wine should be added enough at one time, and the pot lid should not be lifted halfway to add water. The natural fragrance is attractive and the original puree is delicious.Later, when I returned to Beiping, I taught the chef how to make it a few times. It seemed that the taste was different from the one made in Mingde Building in Sanyuan.

Zhengding County, Hebei Province belonged to Changshan in the Han Dynasty. It was the hometown of General Zhao Si, the brave Zilong.One year I took the Ping-Han Line train to Zhengzhou for business. I moved the wrong switch on the road outside Zhengding Station. The truck in front of me derailed and overturned two of them.In the same car was Zhao Chunpo, a native of Shijiazhuang, who had driven a dyeing workshop in Zhengding. He wanted to be an old horse who knew the way. First of all, we went to the Temple of General Zhao Si, which is called "Zhao Temple" by the locals, which has the same reverence as calling Confucius Temple and Guan Temple.Although the appearance of the temple is not very magnificent, it is also full of verandahs and nets, with corridors, round arches and Danbi contrasting each other.On the left side of the courtyard, there is a weapon rack with an iron spear stuck on it. It is said that there used to be blood and red tassels, but it has become a bald spear with age.Although the gun couldn't be pulled out from the stand, it could be turned with both hands, and it weighed more than a hundred catties.After paying homage to Zhao Temple, we rushed to Beilou Restaurant on Shizi Street to taste the famous local dishes "Benggan" and "Eager Meatballs".

Benggan is made of sand liver made from pigs. The tendons are removed, scalded with boiling water, cut into shreds, added with seasonings, stir-fried with hot oil, and served in a pan.The stir-fried shredded liver is fresh and crisp, and it creaks in the mouth, so it is called collapse liver.Beilou restaurant uses diced chicken (some restaurants use diced meat) as the ingredient of Benggan, which can also be burnt and crispy, which is the handicraft of others! The hot meatball is a unique dish in Zhengding, and I have never eaten it elsewhere.The eggs are spread thinly, the duck meat is chopped into puree, fried with other ingredients, the duck puree is rolled in the egg skin, steamed and cut into sections, and served with authentic special mustard, the egg skin is tender yellow, and the duck puree is brown With powder, the mustard yellow is green, let alone eat, the color is already attractive enough.Zhao Chunpo said: "Emperor Qianlong put the gold-inlaid white jade plate and the red-billed green parrot into the delicacy of the imperial dining room; if he had tasted Zhengding hot meatballs, he would probably have dismissed the first two!"

Fu Qingzhu was one of the most vehement scholars who opposed the Qing Dynasty and restored the Ming Dynasty in the early Qing Dynasty. He had a strong anti-Qing consciousness in every move.He opened a small restaurant in Taiyuan and asked him to sign it. He named the restaurant "Qingheyuan".This restaurant is famous in Taiyuan for selling breakfast, and a certain restaurant is famous for selling "brain" and a kind of crispy fire.The brain is also called Bazhen soup. The soup is boiled with sheep’s loin meat, thick yam, sliced ​​lotus root, pickled chives, and astragalus codonopsis soaked in wine. It is said that eating Bazhen soup can refresh the brain and improve intelligence.Suhuoshao is also known as the hat box. The hat box contains the top hats of officials in the Qing Dynasty, which should be swallowed in the stomach.

Qing Heyuan went down to do business before dawn every day, and a lantern was always lit at the door. On the surface, he said that he went down early every day, but in fact, he meant "never forget Daming" in his heart.Qingheyuan, Taiyuan East Street, is the most primitive family. Later, someone saw that his family’s business was very good, and even Datongfeng Town had Qingheyuan, which actually lost the meaning of Fu Qingzhu’s original name Qingheyuan.Bazhen soup is a kind of breakfast. In the severe winter, eating a bowl can really drive away the cold and warm the body. During the Gengzi Yihe Boxing Rebellion, Cixi and Guangxu fled in a hurry until they fled to Taiyuan, Shanxi, where they were shocked and changed their escape to Xishou, and continued westward to Xi'an, Shaanxi.Most of the stewards of the imperial dining room came to accompany them, and the imperial dining room was restored to its old look, which greatly improved the cooking standard of Xi'an.Soaked mutton steamed buns were originally rough talk that couldn’t be put on the table. One day, Cixi’s phoenix chariot passed Gulou Street, and suddenly smelled a burst of pepper and salt, and a strong smell of meat. I ate a bowl of hot mutton steamed buns.It is said that after returning to Luan, the officials who liked to praise the holiness named the gate of Laobai's house selling steamed buns in front of Xi'an Drum Tower as Zhirenpo.From then on, my old family used the original soup to cook the meat. The meat was stewed so plump and delicious. Although the fat meat turned into fine wine, even the lean meat was so rotten that it melted in the mouth.

After entering the Republic of China, his family's business became more and more prosperous. It seemed a pity for outsiders who came to Xi'an to eat a bowl of mutton steamed buns at the old house.At the same time, his family's "Wankou" is also the first in Xi'an. When foreigners come to Xi'an, the local gentry like to invite guests to eat "Wankou" at their old home to show that they can eat freely in Xi'an.The so-called bay mouth is the sphincter around the anus of big-tailed sheep. Because the fibers are thin and tough, it is tender and delicious when chewed.However, there is only one bay for a sheep, and three or two sheep are only three or two bays, so those who get it often boast of their good luck, move their index fingers, and be able to handle everything that day, which has become a magic trick for everyone to pray for luck. party. In the past two years, seafood shops have become very popular. Every county and city in Taiwan, from south to north, is full of splendid seafood shops that shine day and night.Once I was eating seafood in Donggang. The owner of Dongya Building told me that there were big clams just out of the water, which were incomparable with the big clams at Sun’s Hotel in Wujin, Jiangsu—Sun’s Hotel is famous for selling “Tushao” of.The owner of the store is called Old Lady Sun. Although she doesn't sell stir-fried vegetables, her side dishes are only delicious.Seeing that the guests had had enough wine, she brought clams stewed with tofu in a white casserole to the table.It is said that there are mussels in the living water of the Wujin River, some of which are seven or eight inches long. The old lady Sun made this dish in the Sun's Hotel by herself, and never faked it.She washed the silt in the shell clean, smashed the tough meat with a bamboo stick broom, and cooked the tofu with the hanging broth, and served it on the red clay stove.It is also served with chrysanthemum chrysanthemum powder, and soup and vegetables can be cooked for guests.The dishes in Wuxi and Changzhou are too sweet for those of us who have heavy tastes. This dish can be sweet and salty. After eating this dish, all of them are full of praise, so people from the north come to the south. , the most impressive. The provinces in China have a vast territory, and every small town has its specialty dishes, and there is no end to it for a while. I will talk about a few special dishes, just to satisfy my greed and chat.