Chapter 5 Gossip about Lingnan porridge

There is an old saying in China: "Eat in Guangzhou." Because Guangdong is the earliest foreign trade port, the provincial capital is full of Chinese and Western cultures.The dishes are naturally exquisite and delicate, and strive to renovate them.The beauty of the spoon is hard to pass on easily. It is not an exaggeration to say that the flavor of Nanling is as good as that of the south of the Yangtze River. Let’s not talk about the feasts and feasts, just take the Cantonese porridge as an example, it’s enough for us to chew for half a day. Cantonese porridge is roughly divided into two categories.One is "white porridge", also known as "open fire white porridge", which is cooked in a tile-made ox head pot.This kind of container is in the shape of a barrel, with a height of one foot and seven inches and a diameter of seven inches. When cooking, boil it with well water and high heat for three hours. The rice grains are all melted. Add a little refined salt and serve it with deep-fried dough sticks to serve the porridge, which is refreshing and pleasant. .In addition, before the water and rice are rolled, add yuba and ginkgo, stir every ten to eight minutes, add a small spoonful of peanut oil to the pan, and fry a plate of Longmen noodles to serve with porridge, that would be even better.He Xiudi, a poet of the South China Sea, in his "Slender Garden Poems and Grass", there is a poem: "The silver silk in the jade building is of good quality, and the taste is harmonious; there is no need for cold food and quelling, and the fragrance spreads all over the six streets in the morning." The work of singing porridge.

One is "vegetarian porridge".After the white porridge is rolled, it is boiled with pork bones, shellfish, and earth fish. It is used to make the porridge base of Jidi porridge, fish and shrimp porridge, and chicken and duck porridge.It is called vegetarian porridge, but it is actually a big meat. Why it was named vegetarian porridge in the first place is really unpredictable. There are many kinds of chicken and duck porridge, including chicken slice porridge, chicken pearl porridge, fresh duck porridge, roast duck porridge, and gold and silver duck porridge (fresh duck and roast duck are used together).

Fish porridge includes fish fillet porridge, fish ball porridge, and fish head porridge. All sea bass, grass carp, mackerel, bream, grouper, and purple abalone can be added to porridge as long as the spines are thick and the meat is thin, tender and less fishy.I heard that in the early years, Zizhulin Restaurant in Shunde had whale intestine belly and whale liver paste porridge, and Wulianji in Guangzhou had whale jelly porridge.Those fish porridges belong to the special category. Brother Liang Junmo (Han Cao) once ate them, and wrote a small banner for Wu Lianji, "Sip porridge, taste better than pepper paste" to show its beauty.After the 24th year of the Republic of China, probably the world restricted whaling and the source of whaling was difficult, so it was not easy to eat whale porridge in Guangzhou.

The authentic method of shrimp porridge is to cut the prawns into thin slices and boil them with boiling porridge, but the meat quality of Guangdong prawns is not as tender as that of Bohai Bay prawns.I don't want to eat shrimp porridge, but the soft-shelled shrimps are transparent and delicious. In Guangdong, it is also very common to eat Jidi porridge, and there are countless famous dishes.Adding pork balls, pork liver, and pig powder sausage to porridge is called Sanjidi, adding herring, cashew nuts, and pig heart is called Wucaijidi, Qixingjidi, adding beef body materials is called Niujidi, adding fish is called Yujidi, adding shrimp It is the shrimp and the first.In short, there are so many varieties of congee in Guangdong, it is really endless.

One year when I went to Xinjiang, I stayed at the Dihua Provincial Guest House.One day the administrator told me: "Three generations of your family have connections with Guangdong. This morning, I specially prepared a pot of Guangdong Liang Gong porridge for you to try. In the Northwest, fish, lobster, and phoenix are difficult to eat fish porridge. The taste of public porridge may not be inferior to that of Lingnan!" When the porridge is served, it is a miscellaneous porridge with a complete set of ingredients, including chopped green onion, shredded ginger in sauce, coriander, pepper, fried dough sticks, and crispy.The chicken is stewed until it is rotten, shredded and left with skin and bone removed. It is as delicious as oil, and it can be called a delicate and delicious product when it is stuffed.

I asked the administrator, since it is chicken porridge, why is it called Lianggong porridge?He said: "This kind of porridge was made by Mr. Liang Hancao instructing the big kitchen of the provincial government a few years ago. General Zhu Yimin, who presided over the provincial government, thought it could be emulated and named it 'Lianggong porridge'. When Nanbinxi comes, we will prepare a meal to entertain Everyone who has tasted it praises it, so it has become a famous dish in Dihua Province." In Xinjiang, Zuo Wenxiang’s Zuogong porridge was produced in the Qing Dynasty, and in the Republic of China, there was Junmo’s Lianggong porridge. The name of Junmo’s delicacy spread to Xinjiang.When he crossed the sea and came to Taiwan, because they are both fond of food, they naturally had a banquet together. When he talked about Lianggong porridge by chance, he said: "I only told them the authentic method of chicken porridge. They thought it was delicious, so they changed the chicken porridge into Lianggong porridge, but there is a small town called Rongqi in Shunde County that has a kind of porridge called Maogong porridge, which is cooked with old male cats and bones, which is more plump, delicious and delicious than Lianggong porridge!"

Although I like to eat, cats, dogs, monkeys and mice, even if they are hot, I will never touch my lips.Talking about eating in Guangdong is really all-encompassing. There are thousands of flavors like meat, and the tastes are different. Let's talk slowly when we have a chance!