Chapter 45 also said celebrity and eating

Nowadays, many celebrities talk about food, or talk about "food culture". No matter what they eat or drink, they immediately spit lotus flowers out of their mouths, which has become a food culture.In fact, celebrities are also mortals. Except for whole grains, everything else they eat has the same sense of taste as mortals, and is governed by the same "God of Five Flavors".There are some "greedy people" among celebrities, which are no different from "greedy people" among ordinary people. They are delicious, know how to eat, and can even cook with a knife. That's pretty good.Who thinks of "culture" when feasting?This is probably the case for the gluttonous among celebrities.And those who only talk about "culture" and explore "culture" do their best to eat, and they are not enough for greedy people. Most of them are mortals who want to be famous.

But then again, when you talk about Zhang San Li Si, people don't know about it, so they don't attract interest, so they borrow some big and small celebrities, anecdotes and anecdotes to raise their interest.At the end of the Qing Dynasty, there was a restaurant called Guangheju in the north half of the Hutong in Guang'anmen, Beijing. "Slice", known as the secret method of luxury home kitchen.Fan Zhuangzi's spirit of "seeking out the wilderness" is quite advisable, but choosing the name of the dish based on the celebrity effect is still for advertising. Regardless of celebrities or ordinary people, they have to eat at home, so they will have a few specialty dishes, but to achieve "Tan Family Cuisine" based on delicious food; Few people.In modern times, many "celebrities" and "renowned people" are delicious. They are famous for their home cooking, but they don't necessarily cook for themselves.Tang Shengming, the younger brother of Tang Shengzhi, a warlord in Hunan, is a big eater. He has never lost his mouth in his life.Mr. Zhu Guixin (Qi Ling), who served as the chief communications officer of the Beiyang government and acted as the prime minister, was also very particular about cooking at home. After liberation, he once hosted a banquet for Premier Zhou Enlai at home.At that time, Mr. Zhu Gui had already moved to Dongsibatiao. Mr. Gui’s heir, Mr. Zhu Haibei, was studying at the CPPCC with my grandmother. My wife is also good at cooking, and I often eat and drink, but I was too young at that time, and I can't remember what I ate from his house.Not long ago, I happened to be at the same table with Mr. Wang Changan (Shixiang) and Mr. Luo Zhewen during the meeting. During the meeting, I talked about how good Zhu Gui’s hometown food was. "I was working, so I asked the two of you if you had eaten at Zhu's house. Both gentlemen said that they had.Mr. Chang'an is a family of delicacies, and he can list several special dishes of Zhu's family. In particular, he mentioned Zhu's blindly "fried broad beans". The innermost watercress is stir-fried with scallions, without soy sauce, and only with a little salt and sugar, which has a unique taste.I said that my family's "fried broad beans" are also prepared in the same way, except that no green onions are added, in order to retain the fragrance of broad beans and not involve the turbidity of green onions. Please taste it next time.

Mr. Chang'an is a cultural relic appraiser and scholar. He once mocked himself as a "player". Has deep attainments.Recently, there are two books that are quite popular in Beijing, one is Mr. Zhu Jihuang (Jia Mo)'s "Forbidden City Retirement Record", and the other is Mr. Wang Changan (Shixiang)'s "Bronze Ash Pile". These two books have been published successively. There are similarities in the same effect.Both books contain a lot of appreciation, discussion, and research articles on cultural relics, but there are also many essays on home, reading, opera, and food. The experience and insights in these aspects are all related to personal culture. Cultivation is closely related.Mr. Ji Huang and Chang'an are always the best friends. The difference between the two is less than one year, and they are both in their eighty-five or sixteen years old.In terms of ancestral home, one is Xiaoshan, Zhejiang, and the other is Minhou, Fujian, but they both grew up in Beijing.Ji Lao and Chang Lao are both experts in cultural relics, but they are both intellectuals of the previous generation. Ji Lao is good at painting, and has won the charm of the four masters of the Yuan Dynasty, Wen Shen and the four kings. I have also seen his copy of Han Huang's " "Five Cows Picture", which shows great skill.They are old-fashioned and capable of poetry, and their characters are also very bookish, but they are not famous for their calligraphy and painting in the world, they just entertain themselves as the necessary cultivation of cultural people.Their professional skills in cultural relic identification may be inherited by later scholars, but their comprehensive accomplishment and quality in traditional Chinese culture may be hard to come by later generations.In addition, when it comes to "playing", Ji Lao is good at pink, ink, red, and Chang Lao is able to raise pigeons and livestock. "Playing" is so exquisite that even the professionals Cheng Men Lixue and respectfully wait for advice, I am afraid there will be no future. Here comes.

When it comes to eating, Ji Lao claims to be a "greedy person", but he is not particular about food.Last year, I invited Mr. Ji to have dinner at home, and I prepared several special dishes at home, such as lion head with crab powder, stir-fried eel paste, Huaiyang shrimp cake, fried bell, steamed mandarin fish with golden legs, etc. Mr. Ji appreciated it , very happy to eat.Chang Lao is better than Ji Lao. Not only is it delicious, but he can also cook it himself. He is famous for his breaded shrimp tray, stewed asparagus (asparagus), shrimp roe and rice stem.Once I asked Changlao where to sell shrimp in Beijing, Changlao immediately told me that it is difficult to buy now, only the basement floor of Hongqiao Farmer’s Market sells it, which shows that Changlao is also hands-on in terms of raw materials.Zhu Jilao has two articles on "Miscellaneous Food and Drink" in "The Forbidden City Retreating Food", most of which are things he has eaten and seen. There is absolutely no discussion of "food culture" and the like, which is real.It is said that Zhu’s method of cooking braised shark’s fin was learned from Tan Zhuanqing’s (Zu Ren) family. Qian Baosen, Wang Fushan, etc. can be described as "taking the law from above".

Many people are not very particular about food, and not everyone can often eat delicacies from mountains and seas, but many people have one or two unique skills, which leave a deep impression after eating, and will not forget it for many years. Mr. Aixinjueluo Puzuo, a painter, is called Yongzhai, and he is cousin to Mr. Xuezhai Puyi. They rank eighth and are called "Baye Pu".Mr. Pu Zuo has distant relatives with my family, and he often lived in the poor house in the 1950s and 1960s. Later, he was transferred to Tianjin Academy of Fine Arts to teach, so there were fewer contacts.This Mr. Pu Zuo was famous for painting horses in his early years, but later he was very good at landscapes, flowers, and feathers, and he made great achievements in his later years.He belongs to the Jueluo clan, so it goes without saying that the food is delicious, but his middle-aged condition is not good, so he can't get it often, so he often eats at my house.When I was young, I often heard him say that he could cook, but I never saw him show his skills.He has one "unique skill", that is, homemade "spicy sauce".This spicy soy sauce is not a Chinese seasoning, but an imported product. It is used to dip fried or fried meat in Western food, which is a bit similar to Guangdong's "sauce".In the past, the yellow brand or blue brand spicy soy sauce made by Shanghai Meilin Company was the best, and it was sold in all high-end vegetable markets, and no one would make it by itself.Only this "Baye Pu" is good at making spicy soy sauce, and the method is kept secret.He once gave me spicy soy sauce, which was bottled with ordinary soy sauce. When opened, it was fragrant and fragrant, and it tasted far better than that made by Merlin Company.When asked about the production method of "Baye Pu", he just smiled and said that cloves, cardamom, etc. are used as the basic raw materials, and it needs to go through seven or eight processes, so I won't talk about it further.Worcestershire sauce is originally a condiment for meals, and few people work hard on it. Moreover, Worcestershire sauce is not widely used in Chinese food. It is rare for Mr. Pu Zuo to pay attention to such subtleties.Many people have admired Mr. Puzuo's paintings, but probably not many people have tasted his own spicy soy sauce.

There is another food that I haven't tasted out of the ordinary for many years, and that is the chicken with shrimp oil made by Peking Opera actress and educator Mr. Hua Huilin. Hua Huilin was intelligent since he was a child, and became famous in Shanghai in his early years. Later, he worshiped under the "Tongtian leader" Mr. Wang Yaoqing.When she was young, she had a beautiful appearance, a solid foundation, and was able to play a lot. Unfortunately, after middle age, her voice lost her luster, and she retired from the stage due to other reasons. She was engaged in teaching at the Chinese Academy of Traditional Chinese Opera. Yang Qiuling, Li Weikang and others have all been taught by her, and not many people know her today.In the late fifties she had a lot of dealings with my old grandmother.One midsummer, I invited my grandmother to dinner, and I went with her.At that time, Mr. Hua was living very poorly. He lived in a small courtyard in Nancheng. The house was small and it was summer, so the table was placed in the shade of the trees in the courtyard. The food was ordinary but exquisite. Yes, but there is also chicken with shrimp oil, which tastes great.The shrimp oil chicken was served in a small earthenware bowl, with jelly on it, trembling, the jelly was so delicious that it melted in your mouth.The chicken is tender and tasty, and the taste of marinated shrimp oil is on the bones, which is extremely sweet.Later, I ate the shrimp oil chicken made by many people and the shrimp oil chicken in the restaurant, which was far from reaching this level.Another thing I still can't figure out is that it was midsummer, and Mr. Yihua's living conditions at that time made it impossible to have a refrigerator, but the shrimp oil chicken tasted very cold and refreshing. The oil is added with agar (that is, card force), and it is suppressed with cold water.It has been more than 20 years since Mr. Hua passed away. Things have changed and people have changed. This is already 40 years ago.

Mr. Deng Yunxiang (Yunxiang) in Shanghai and I are friends who have forgotten the years. I first came to Shanghai in the mid-1980s. On the Dragon Boat Festival, Mr. Deng's wife was still alive at that time.It is already very hot in Shanghai at the beginning of May in the lunar calendar. It takes more than an hour to travel from Jing’an Temple where I live to Yangpu District where Mr. Deng lives. However, the zongzi leaves are green and give off a fragrance, unlike the zongzi in the north, which are mostly wrapped in wide reed leaves.The zongzi had been chilled, and after peeling off the zongzi leaves, it was poured with purple-red rose marinade, the color was crystal clear and lovely.When I eat jujube rice dumplings or red bean paste rice dumplings in Beijing, I have to dip them in some sugar. I have never eaten them with rose marinade. The taste is really different.The white and bright glutinous rice is immersed in the purple rose juice, which is very sweet, cool and refreshing, and extremely sweet.I asked Mr. Deng how to make rose brine. Mr. Yun Xiang said that his wife made it, but he didn't know how to do it, but he made it with fresh roses.Mr. Deng has a deep research on "Redology" and is a consultant for TV dramas. It is not known whether this rose brine may have benefited from it?Miaofeng Mountain in Beijing is rich in roses. Every late spring, the roses all over the mountain are in full bloom. I also bought the rose sauce made by Miaofeng Mountain. The rose marinade?What's more, using local materials is a real green food.

Mr. Yunxiang once wrote that his family is good at cooking Hangzhou cuisine, such as gold and silver hoof, fried bell, eight-treasure duck, etc. Mrs. Deng and Ms. Cai Shiyan are from Zhejiang, so Hangzhou cuisine is naturally very good.In the early 1990s, Mrs. Deng had passed away, and the family hired a nanny to cook.According to Mr. Yunxiang, his family’s dishes have gone through three grades. The best one is cooked by Mr. Deng’s aunt, that is, Ms. Cai Shiyan’s sister. Mr. Zhu was burned by his aunt.After the aunt passed away, Mrs. Deng would burn it herself, which is the second level.I have eaten the dishes cooked by Mrs. Deng.After Mrs. Deng passed away, the nanny would burn it, and Mr. Deng would personally guide all the treats.In the early 1990s, I went to Mr. Deng’s house for dinner, and I also invited two Singaporean guests. The dishes were also very rich. What impressed me most was a roasted bran and a chestnut chicken, which were cooked extremely well.Mr. Deng said it was all done under his guidance.Shanghai can't buy good chestnuts, and I promised to bring him some chestnuts from Huairou in the suburbs of Beijing next time I go to Shanghai. At the beginning of 1998, I suddenly received the news of Mr. Yunxiang's passing away, and I was deeply saddened. The death of this person was like an eternal farewell.

Mr. Liu Yeqiu (Tongliang) has lived in the ancient capital for a long time. In addition to studying language and characters, he is familiar with Beijing anecdotes and is also good at cooking Beijing food, especially sauced beef and mutton.In the early 1970s, during the ten-year catastrophe, everyone spoke cautiously and had few contacts with friends and couples. However, at the end of the twelfth lunar month, Mr. Liu ordered his second son Liu Hong to send a large amount of beef and mutton each. All the way from Zhushikou to Hepingli, the aluminum pot was frozen cold, and the meat looked very hard, but after being placed in a warm room, the meat softened, and the meat was cut with a knife. It was very soft and salty. Absolutely no smell.The mutton in sauce is soft and tender, and it melts in your mouth.The sauced beef has a slight bite and a slightly sweet taste, unlike Yueshengzhai's pure Beijing-style sauced beef, and the spices used are also different.I haven't eaten such good sauced beef and mutton for many years.At that time, the purchase of beef and mutton was supplied by ticket, and everyone's life was not rich, and the winter was bitter and cold. To be able to eat such good sauced beef and mutton during the Spring Festival is a sign of the interpersonal friendship in that era. Although the world is different, today I still have a long aftertaste after thinking about it.

Mr. Wu Zeyan (former deputy editor-in-chief of the Commercial Press) who once presided over the compilation of "Ci Hai" is from Changshu, Jiangsu, and has a good relationship with my family.His wife, Mr. Wang Jiazhen, also cooks very well, especially some southern-style home-cooked dishes, which are unique.What impresses me the most is that Mr. Wang seldom uses a knife when cooking. She has a pair of big scissors that are used as cooking utensils. All vegetables are cut with scissors.Even when eating deep-fried dough sticks early, they are first cut into sections with scissors, and put on a plate for everyone to eat.The Wu family also ate a very special food, which was pig brains, which were sold in Pu Wufang at that time.Because few people eat it, only a small amount is provided every day. The Wu family’s eating pig brains was originally prepared for Mr. Wang’s mother. Plate pig's brain, pour a little thick soy sauce.After I have eaten it a few times, I also feel that the taste is very good.It is said that this kind of thing is a high-cholesterol food, and few people eat it today.

Mr. Chen Congzhou, an expert in ancient garden architecture, is upright by nature. He insists on his own opinion on garden protection and restoration, and dares to express his opinions directly. For this, he offended many people, but he treats others very warmly and generously.When I went to Shanghai in the 1980s, I visited my husband in the dormitory of Tongji University. He just woke up from a nap, and he was in a good mood. From my great-uncle and great-grandfather Ci Shangong to Mr. Jiang Baili (Fang Zhen)’s experience, there was nothing in more than two hours. Without being tired, I took the pleasure of drawing a picture of bamboo for me, titled "Xinhuang is proud of ten thousand poles and greens".I saw that it was almost dusk, so I got up to say goodbye. Mr. Chen insisted on staying, and told me that we would eat Changzhou cakes at home that night, and that Hua Wenyi and Yue Meiti would come to sing Kunqu opera after dinner, so he asked me not to leave.The kindness is hard to turn down, so I have to stay.Dinner is actually very simple, only Changzhou cakes and rice porridge. The Changzhou cakes are very well made, about five inches in diameter, similar to northern pies, filled with rapeseed.Rapeseed in the south is fresher and more delicious than that in the north.The skin of the cake is definitely not as hard and thick as a pie, it can be said to be as thin as rice paper, and the green color of rapeseed is reflected through the skin, which is crystal clear and lovely.Pick it up with chopsticks, although it is soft and not bad, it still has some toughness in your mouth.Mr. Chen told me that the key to making Changzhou cakes is to knead the noodles. Unlike the northern pies, which are kneaded, they are made with thin noodles. The method is to mix the dry noodles with water and stir them clockwise with chopsticks. Thin as a slurry, gradually add flour until it stops stirring.When using it, use dry noodles for a while, so as not to stick to your hands, wrap it with stuffing and put it on, so the leather is so soft and tough.Rapeseed in spring is fragrant and green, and it is faintly visible through the skin. It not only tastes good, but also has an excellent appearance. It is very light when served with white rice porridge.Mr. has two collections of essays, one is "Spring Moss Collection" and the other is "Lianqing Collection", which means "the moss marks are green on the upper level, and the grass color enters the curtain green". There are similarities but the same effect! There are a lot of stories about celebrities and food, and it is unavoidable that they are suspected of being "stained". In fact, many of the seniors mentioned above do not consider themselves celebrities, and they never say that they are gourmets, let alone talk about "food culture".Apart from their respective professions, like all ordinary people, they have appetites and like good food.Mr. Zhou Yiliang, a historian, suffers from Parkinson's disease and has difficulty moving. He occasionally offers some snacks. He even wrote to ask where they can be bought.These old gentlemen's simple pursuit and love for life are very pure, far from the "food culture" advertised by some impetuous "celebrities".