Chapter 42 Sichuan Opera and Sichuan Cuisine

I am a layman to Sichuan opera, but I have been obsessed with Sichuan opera for more than forty years since watching Sichuan opera.In the mid-1950s, Sichuan opera was performed in Jinjing, and I was fascinated by "Water Over the Golden Mountains" and "Forcing My Nephew to Go to School".Over the next 40 years, I have seen more than 100 different plays of Sichuan opera in Beijing and Sichuan, and enjoyed the stage presence of dozens of Sichuan opera artists, such as Shengxing Zeng Ronghua, Yuan Yukun, Xie Wenxin, Liu Youquan, Lan Guanglin, Xiao Boating, Yang Changlin; Yang Youhe, Chen Shufang, Yang Shuying, Xu Qianyun, Jinghua, Zhang Qiaofeng, Xiaofang, Zuo Qingfei for Danxing; Liu Chengji, Zhou Qihe, Zhou Yuxiang, Chen Quanbo, Li Xiaofei for ugly.At that time, there was a gathering of talents, as bright as stars.It can be said that apart from Beijing and Kunming, Sichuan opera is the most watched opera. For decades, as long as there are Sichuan operas coming to Beijing to report performances or observe internally, almost every performance is not left behind.

As for the history of eating Sichuan cuisine, it seems to be a little later than watching Sichuan opera. It was at the end of the 1950s, under the advocacy of comrades Chen Yi and Guo Moruo, a large-scale Sichuan restaurant was established in Rongxian Hutong, Xidan, and guests were invited to Chengdu and Chongqing. It has become the most authentic Sichuan cuisine restaurant in Beijing.Before that, there were very few restaurants specializing in Sichuan cuisine in Beijing, only a few such as Dong'an Market and Emei Restaurant in Xidan Shopping Mall.I remember that on the eve of the opening of Sichuan Restaurant, a relative of my family invited us to have dinner at Sichuan Restaurant. This relative was engaged in art and participated in the interior design and decoration of Sichuan Restaurant. .The banquets at that time never had so many delicacies from mountains and seas as today, they were extremely luxurious, they were nothing more than chicken, duck and fish, but they were very delicately prepared.A dish like fish-flavored pork shreds is well-known today, and it cannot be more popular. However, at the end of the 1950s, fish-flavored pork shreds could not be eaten in restaurants in Beijing. The fragrant shredded pork has a strong taste, sweet, spicy and delicious, and it is far from being comparable to ordinary Sichuan restaurants today.In addition, there are seven or eight dim sum snacks in the middle of the banquet, such as red oil chaoshou, dandan noodles, glutinous rice cakes, wine glutinous rice balls, leaf cakes, steamed beef with steamed rice dumplings, etc. The banquet was embellished, but I felt that it was well adjusted, full of nostalgia, and very cordial.

After the 1960s, Sichuan cuisine was very popular in Beijing. After the Sichuan Restaurant, many smaller Sichuan cuisine restaurants were opened, and Sichuan cuisine was one of the important cuisines even for state banquets in the Great Hall of the People, Diaoyutai State Guesthouse, and Beijing Hotel. , hired and trained many Sichuan cuisine super chefs.It can even be said that before the reform and opening up, and the wind of Hong Kong and Guangdong spreading to the north, Sichuan cuisine was in the same dominant position as Shandong cuisine and Huaiyang cuisine in Beijing.However, some changes have taken place in Sichuan cuisine in recent years, at least the Sichuan cuisine operating outside the "Land of Abundance" has undergone changes.This change is reflected in two aspects. One is the excessive and one-sided pursuit of the fiery effect of "numbing, spicy, and hot" in Sichuan cuisine, which makes people think that only Maodu hot pot, boiled pork slices, Maoxuewang, and dry-stir-fried beef shreds are the best. It is the representative of Sichuan cuisine, which can express the characteristics of "numbing, spicy and hot" of Sichuan cuisine, which makes many people daunted by Sichuan cuisine.In fact, Sichuan cuisine is rich and colorful, and "numerous, spicy, hot" can only represent one aspect of Sichuan cuisine, by no means all of them.What's more, what used to say was "numbing, spicy, hot, and fresh", and it was just superficial without words.Only the first three words.The word "fresh" is very good. Without the word "fresh", the first three are like a painting. Without the finishing touch, the painting will lose its spirit.In the sense of taste, sweet, salty, sour, spicy, bitter, numb, astringent, or cold or hot are all easy to feel, but the word "fresh" is different for the beholder, and the wise see wisdom, and it is impossible to define it specifically. to describe.Of course, this is definitely not talking about "fresh" made with MSG.Take the bamboo shoots that southerners like as an example. Winter bamboo shoots have the freshness of winter bamboo shoots, and spring bamboo shoots have the beauty of spring bamboo shoots. However, in the mouths of most northerners, they cannot taste how fresh the bamboo shoots are.The shad in the Yangtze River is delicious, and the hairy crabs in Yangcheng Lake are also delicious. Who can accurately describe the similarities and differences between these two "delicious"?Similarly, the "freshness" of Sichuan cuisine, I think, in addition to the taste experience, broadly speaking, it should also include the overall richness and uniqueness of Sichuan cuisine.

The second change is that in recent years, it has been deeply influenced by Cantonese cuisine. The so-called "new Sichuan cuisine" is actually a blunt transplant of some Cantonese cuisine into Sichuan cuisine, which has become neither Sichuan nor Cantonese, and has lost the characteristics and charm of Sichuan cuisine. .As far as the old Sichuan is concerned, they don't buy the "new Sichuan cuisine" account, but the small restaurants in the Shangqing Temple area of ​​Chongqing, which sell traditional Sichuan cuisine and snacks, and their business is booming.I have eaten Chengdu snacks twice in the alleys near Hongzhaobi, Chengdu. There is a shop with three or five unpainted wooden tables and stools. They are unpretentious, but the snacks are very authentic, which are better than those specially designed for tourists. The "snack set meal" is much better. There are four or five young girls from the Sichuan Provincial Song and Dance Theater at the next table. Rough bowls and wooden chopsticks, sweating profusely after eating, laughter and laughter, but it is also very harmonious.

The numbness and spicyness of Sichuan cuisine are never abused.The ratio of both spicy and spicy dishes is also unique. Some dishes are more spicy than spicy, and some are more spicy than spicy. Take the most popular mapo tofu as an example. .Of course, the raw materials of spicy food should be extremely particular.Zanthoxylum bungeanum must be produced in Maowen, the color is brownish red, and the grains are full. The hot pepper must also be a good sea pepper produced in the Chengdu Basin.The last one is "hot". Without this hot, the spicy aroma cannot be enhanced. A plate of mapo tofu must be hot when served on the table. After eating it with a spoonful, the head will sweat and the whole body will feel comfortable. The taste is gone. "Ma La Tang" should be said to be an important feature of Sichuan cuisine, but if a table of Sichuan dishes is all Malatang, I am afraid that no one will care about Sichuan cuisine.The beauty of Sichuan cuisine is that there are tensions and relaxations, thick and light, strong and weak, rich and varied.

The year before last, I went to Chengdu to visit the "Chinese Art Festival" and watched a performance starring Ms. Tian Mansha. After the performance, Zhang Tingxiu, the headmaster of the Sichuan Opera School in Sichuan, took a seat at a good Sichuan restaurant and invited me to dinner. I also invited brother Chen Guofu, a screenwriter of Sichuan Opera Mr. Li and Mr. Li from Beijing, they are all from Sichuan. During the meeting, they talked about their nostalgia, and talked about the theory that Sichuan opera can be summarized as "spicy soup", and everyone unanimously opposed it.I am not from Sichuan, and I can be called a "layman" on this occasion, so I dare not express my own opinions.Later, Ms. Tian Mansha undressed and came to the banquet, and also participated in the discussion, and the atmosphere seemed much more relaxed.She said that this production is somewhat "spicy and spicy", but when it comes to Sichuan opera, it is not always the case, and even "spicy and spicy" is only a small number.Later, Ms. Tian asked my opinion, and I said that I am a layman for Sichuan opera, but in terms of the repertoire, the traditional "Five Robes", "Four Pillars" and "Eighteen Books of Jianghu" do not necessarily have "spicy soup". Taste, but the "Iron Cage Mountain" in the excerpts (acting the story of the Yuan Dynasty, not Jiang Weizhi's "Iron Cage Mountain" in Peking Opera), "Ask a Disease to Force the Palace", "Xiao Fang Killing the Boat" and other plays are a bit "spicy". Taste, especially "Ma La Tang" in Danjiao opera is less, maybe "Picking the Curtain and Tailoring Clothes" can be regarded as one of them?When it comes to vocal accents, some "spicy and spicy" ones are high-pitched ones.So everyone agrees that my understanding of Sichuan opera can be rated as 60 points.

Bashu is known as the "Land of Abundance" and is rich in things and people. Since the Ming Dynasty, there have been performances by local troupes.Since Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty, whether it is Kunqiang as "Zhengsheng" and "Yabu", or as "Luantan" and "Huabu", Yiyang, Pihuang, and Bangzi have entered Sichuan successively, and are closely related to Sichuan's pronunciation and appreciation habits. Combined, formed the later Sichuan Opera, or Sichuan Opera.Therefore, the voice of Sichuan opera is also very rich.It can be divided into five vocal tunes: "Kun" (Kun Opera), "Gao" (Gao Opera), "Qin" (Huqin), "Tan" (Tanxi), and "Deng" (Light Opera).Kunqiang was the first to enter Sichuan, and it was introduced into Sichuan when a large number of immigrants from southern provinces moved to Sichuan in the early Qing Dynasty.Due to the elegant and elegant libretto of Kunqu opera, the content is based on Yuefu and Zaju, and it is co-produced with sandalwood and accompanied by silk and bamboo.In the Jiadao period, Kunqu opera in Chengdu flourished, and there was a saying that "Wu music is shared in the Liyuan" and "mostly played by silk and bamboo".At that time, it was able to perform famous dramas such as "Xiu Ru Ji", "Huan Sha Ji" and "Bauhinia Tale".The two people who contributed the most to the formation of Sichuan and Kunming are Li Tiaoyuan, a litterateur during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, and Wu Tang, the governor of Sichuan during the Tongzhi period. The former once set up a small pear garden in Chengdu to practice Kunqu opera.Every winter, sitting around the fire to learn and play music was a pastime, which had a great influence at that time.Many amateurs can also strike sandalwood grooves or play flute pipes, and this lively scene lasted until the beginning of Xianfeng.The second prosperity of Kunqiang was in the sixth year of Tongzhi (1867). Wu Tang, the former governor of Liangjiang, was transferred to the governor of Sichuan. ", and gradually formed a lot of bosom friends among the people, which drove the popularity of Sichuan-Kun tune and laid the foundation of Sichuan-Kun tune.On the basis of Yiyang tune in Jiangxi Province, Gaoqiang tune maintains the characteristic of "singing by one person while everyone agrees with it", and absorbs a large amount of artistic nutrition from Sichuan Yangge, Chuanjiang chant, Divine Comedy, and Lianxiang from the folk, making it the most distinctive tune.Or tense, or adagio, forming the most Sichuan-flavored vocal art, or the most "spicy and spicy" flavor.Huqin, also known as Si Xianzi, originated from Hui tune and Han tune, and absorbed Shaanxi's "Han Zhong Erhuang". Just like the fusion of Hui and Han to form Peking Opera after 50 years of Qianlong, Sichuan dialect was combined to form Huqin tune .Tanxi is based on the Bangzi in Tongzhou, Shaanxi, after a long-term transformation, with the cover huqin as the main accompaniment instrument, and the vocal cavity formed by the clapper hitting the festival.As for the Lantern Opera, it was formed in folk operas and folk songs, and later became one of the five vocal tunes.

I think Gaoqiang has the most "spicy" taste. Gaoqiang pays attention to the close combination of "helping", "fighting" and "singing". The hand (clapper) dominates the entire scene and stage, expressing the transfer of time and space and the change of the environment, while the "bang" (accompaniment) is just like "hot", setting off to a climax.In the old Sichuan opera, the supporting vocals were all male voices, led by the drum master, and all the scene (band) personnel sang in chorus, commonly known as "Qi Naowao".Later, after reforms, female voices were mostly used to lead the vocals, and male and female voices were mixed to support the vocals.The chant can not only mark the tunes and determine the tune, but also play a role in exaggerating the atmosphere of the environment and expressing the inner activities of the characters, replacing the inner monologues of the characters in the play.

Although the performance of Sichuan Opera has a complete set of procedures, it is not completely rigid in the procedures in different repertoires. Even the repertoires such as "Jingchai Ji" and "Xiu Ru Ji" originated from dramas or legends are very rich in performance. Emotional color, very breath of life.Chen Shufang and Zhou Qihe's Chen Miaochang and Boatman in "Autumn River", Yuan Yukun and Liu Maozhao's Zheng Yuanhe and Li Yaxian in "Xiu Ru Ji", Zeng Ronghua and Xu Qianyun's Lu Mengzheng and Liu Cuiping in "Priority of Snow" have all reached The state of perfection.

The pleating skills and fan skills in Sichuan opera are particularly distinctive, which are not available in other operas.Xiaosheng's pleats are characterized by high slits, only about three inches from the armpits, which are not found in other dramas.The sleeves are large, and the sleeves are made of the fragrant sweater worn inside.The texture of the pleats is soft, and it also requires the actors to have solid basic skills in their hands, feet, waist, and legs, so that the sleeves can be stretched freely and flexibly, making the characters look handsome and graceful.Its exercises include brushing, kicking, biting, flying, spinning and so on.For example, Pei Yu in "Let Pei Pei" and Xiao Fang in "Kill the Boat" both have a lot of pleated movements, which require a lot of skill.Fanzigong also has a set of procedures, which can beautify postures in performances and is also a special technique in Sichuan opera performances.As for changing faces, kicking eyes, lifting, etc., they are unique features in Sichuan opera. Such unique performances and rich vocals and repertoires form the overall artistic effect of Sichuan opera, which cannot be summed up by "spicy soup". of.

I remember that when Sichuan Opera was first introduced to Beijing in the 1950s, people saw Xiaosheng kicking, biting, flying, and twisting his folds on the stage, revealing the colored pants he was wearing. .In fact, this kind of pleating skill is exactly the skill that Sichuan opera students can use dance movements to cooperate with outfits to express the psychological activities of characters' joy, anger, surprise, and fear. process. It is said that the formation of Sichuan cuisine went through four stages. The prototype period was from the Spring and Autumn Period to the Jin Dynasty. At this time, with the construction of the Dujiangyan Water Conservancy Project, the flood and drought disasters in the Chengdu Plain were greatly reduced, and the benefits of irrigation and shipping were also provided. The economic outlook was greatly improved.By the Han Dynasty, many places were already rich and prosperous areas with "salt spring wells in every household and orange and pomelo gardens in every household", enjoying the title of "Tianfu".Sima Xiangru and Zhuo Wenjun engaged in "catering industry" activities, and probably contributed to the embryonic form of Sichuan cuisine.The second period is the development period, that is, during the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. Not only was the economy prosperous in central Shu, but the political environment was also relatively stable, and it became the refuge for the emperors of the Tang Dynasty.During the Five Dynasties, Wang Jian and Meng Chang of the early and late Shu Dynasty also enjoyed a few years of happiness in Sichuan. The abnormal prosperity in the southwest corner made Sichuan cuisine develop greatly.The third period is the exchange period, that is, during the Song Dynasty, Sichuan cuisine came out of Sichuan and spread all over the country. At the same time, the food customs of other places gradually entered Sichuan. There are many records about food in Lu You's "Jiannan Poetry Draft".The fourth period is from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, which is the so-called formation period of the cuisine.This is not unrelated to the style of drinking and banquets at that time. There is a custom of "admiring the taste" and "loving the spice" in Sichuan. Welcome, public and private celebrations must have a big meal, such as wedding banquet, birthday banquet, welcome banquet, farewell banquet, kitchen banquet, hunting banquet, boat banquet, and travel banquet, the list is too numerous to list.Especially during the period of the Republic of China, when the warlords ruled in separate regimes, and the extravagance of warlords, big and small, also brought about the super prosperity of Sichuan cuisine, and created a large number of famous chefs who are proficient in cooking.In the old days, salt merchants and warlords in central Sichuan entertained guests. In addition to listing delicacies from mountains and seas, they also imported many raw materials from outside the province, such as dried mushrooms from Yunnan and Guizhou, fat sheep from Shaanxi and Gansu, autumn crabs from Jiangsu and Zhejiang, seafood from Guangdong and Guangxi, and even live pigs. Liver, cut breast of raw chicken.Even the local fresh fish, after being caught by the river, are slaughtered immediately and cooked in the pot immediately.This kind of copper pot is placed on a burden, and there is a fire underneath, which is simmered slowly. It is called "thousand stewed tofu and ten thousand stewed fish". It is so delicious that it is called "Dandan Fish", which shows its extravagance. I have been to Chongqing and Chengdu many times, and the locals all say that their city has the highest level of cooking, especially Chongqing. They always say "eating in Chongqing", but Chengdu is only famous for its snacks.There is some truth to this statement. Tea drinking and snacks are indeed more common in Chengdu than in Chongqing, and the drinking habits are more traditional. After the deformed prosperity of the "accompanying capital" during the Anti-Japanese War, the development of the catering industry was faster. In fact, the Sichuan cuisine The degree of popularity and exquisiteness is far beyond Chongqing and Chengdu. You can eat pure and high-level Sichuan cuisine in all the prefectures and counties of Sichuan, which is by no means inferior to Chongqing and Chengdu.My wife has been to Guangyuan and Jianmen, and she is full of praise for the cooking level there, especially the tofu feast in Jianmen, which she has never forgotten for more than ten years. Although the art of opera is rich and colorful, the most important thing is "sound" and "feeling". I think Sichuan opera pays more attention to the word "feeling". Music, vocals, performances, and special effects all express "feeling". Character.Whether it is Sichuan Kun, Gaoqiang, Huqin, Tanxi or Dengxi, no matter whether the plot is happy or sad, frightened or frightened, the expression of "love" in Sichuan opera is the best.There is a "Old Back and Young" in Sichuan opera. The plot is a simple story of a poor and dumb man Zhang Gong carrying his paralyzed daughter on his back to beg at Huiyuan Bridge. Body and eyes must faithfully portray two characters with completely different genders, ages, actions, and personalities. It is necessary to show the scene of father and daughter relying on each other, relying on each other for support, and struggling for life. Really", the two of them completely.The performance was touching and moved people to tears. Although Sichuan cuisine has five flavors and different shades, it is generally characterized by freshness and mellowness, and the middle seasoning plays a big role.The ingredients of Sichuan cuisine are exquisite and delicate, and each ingredient has its preferred origin, such as Zigongjing salt, Maowen pepper, Neijiang white sugar, Deyang soy sauce, Langzhong vinegar, Pixian watercress, Yongchuan tempeh, Fuling mustard, Xufu sprouts, Nanchong winter vegetables And Chengdu hot peppers, etc., try to choose the best products, which are not easy to replace.Someone asked me, is pepper the most important in Sichuan cuisine?I said that hot pepper is important, but not as important as salt. The reason why Sichuan cuisine is Sichuan cuisine is Sichuan salt, and other ingredients can be neglected. If Sichuan salt, that is, Zigongjing salt, is not used, Sichuan cuisine will be dull.Nowadays, some Sichuan restaurants in Beijing use sea salt or reprocessed salt instead of Sichuan salt, which greatly reduces the quality.In fact, how much does Sichuan salt cost?Let you have delicacies from mountains and seas, and famous chefs, if you give up this one, it can be said that you will give up the basics and seek the last.In the 1970s, there was a small Sichuan restaurant near Dongdan, Beijing. I often patronized it. A plate of twice-cooked pork and a bowl of egg drop soup cost only 60 to 70 cents, which can be used for a "tooth sacrifice".The twice-cooked pork slices are thin and fragrant, with thick red oil and fresh green garlic. You can eat two bowls of rice and half a bowl of egg drop soup with vegetables. "Although the king of the south is not easy."Boiled pork slices is also the most popular dish, but without Sichuan salt, no matter how pure Sichuan pepper and spicy noodles are, it is useless.The cooking of other dishes is also inseparable from Sichuan salt. It seems that only with Sichuan salt can the taste of other ingredients be adjusted. Sichuan opera and Sichuan cuisine are not only the essence of Bashu culture, but also the essence of Chinese national culture. Their artistic charm needs to be savored carefully to taste the taste and feel the emotion.