Chapter 8 Alienated Mongolian BBQ

In my opinion, only the barbecues in Beijing's "Barbecue Wan" and "Barbecue Season" are authentic barbecues. In recent years, Korean barbecues, multi-flavor Zhaihua formal Japanese-style barbecues and Brazilian barbecues established in Beijing are all outsiders. , not in this column.The most important feature of Beijing barbecue is that it is grilled on iron grills. It is wrong for someone to write "iron grill" as "iron sticks".Because the so-called "roasting" process is actually the "burning" process. "Barbecue Wan" once asked Qi Baishi to write a plaque. Mr. Qi Baishi once did a textual research on the word "roast", thinking that "Shuowen" does not have the word "roast", and the word "roast" should be "burned".I think the difference between roasting and broiling should be the difference between whether it is in direct contact with the fire. The direct contact with the fire is roasting, and the indirect contact with the fire is broiling.From this point of view, the barbecue in Brazil and South American countries is a real barbecue, while the barbecue in Beijing, barbecue season, and even in Japan and South Korea should be called broiled meat.As far as Asia is concerned, West Asia and the Middle East mostly serve barbecue, while East Asia mostly serves grilled meat.my country is a multi-ethnic country where grilling and broiling coexist. Uyghurs and Mongolians both have barbecues. Manchus and Huis have been integrated with Han culture for a long time, and there are more grilled foods than grilled foods.Among the famous barbecue restaurants in Beijing, Barbecue Wan and Barbecue Liu are halal, but Barbecue Jiyuan is not halal. It became a halal restaurant after it was changed to a state-owned restaurant.Roasting beef and mutton with iron broilers can be said to be a joint creation of Hui, Manchu and Han cultures in Beijing.

When I went to Taiwan in 1993, I ate "Mongolian BBQ" once.It was a very famous restaurant in Taipei. I can't remember the name of the store, but it seemed not far from the "SEF", because we came out for dinner after meeting the deputy secretary-general of the "SEF", Li Qingping. I have lived in Inner Mongolia for two years, which is an area where Mongolians live. I have eaten Mongolian folk "Mongolian barbecue". Although that kind of barbecue does not have any condiments, the meat is very fresh. It can be said that it is a real barbecue.Therefore, before entering the store, I thought that this "Mongolian barbecue" should be the case.After sitting down, I realized something was wrong. It was completely in the form of Beijing Barbecue Wan and Barbecue Season, and there was no such thing as "Mongolian Barbecue".Seeing that I was suspicious, the owner, Mr. Zeng, repeatedly emphasized that "this is authentic Mongolian barbecue".

The meat here is optional, including beef, mutton and venison. In fact, the Mongolians do not eat venison much, but the Manchus have the habit of eating venison.The meat is fed with condiments, and the auxiliary materials can be taken by yourself, like the barbecue in Beijing, there are green onions, coriander, etc. In addition, there is a large pot of chopped pineapple (that is, pineapple), which is also an auxiliary material for barbecue.Each person prepares their own meat and some special condiments, such as sesame, chili, oyster sauce, sand tea sauce, satay sauce, soy sauce, garlic sauce, fish sauce, etc., as well as auxiliary materials, and then hand them over to the operator The people in the room went to roast.There are about three or four iron grills for barbecue like those in Beijing, and they can be operated at the same time. There is only a large glass between the operation room and the hall, in order to prevent the oily smoke from spreading, and the operation process can also be seen at a glance.

The grilled meat with pineapple has a special flavor, the smell of beef and mutton is very light, and the meat is also excellent, tender and fresh.The chefs who operate are all around 60 years old, speak Henan dialect, and are probably veterans living in Taiwan.I heard that we are from the mainland, and we are very hospitable, and the meat is roasted with great care.What is the relationship between this kind of barbecue and Mongolia is really puzzling.Taking a step back, even if it is "Mongolian barbecue", how can the oyster sauce, satay, fish sauce, etc. in the condiments, as well as the pineapple in the south, come from Mongolia?It is strange to see three or four restaurants operating "Mongolian barbecue" while driving downtown in Taipei.

In the former residence of Mr. Zhang Daqian on Zhishan Road, "Maya Jingshe", there is a barbecue pavilion with a thatched roof, which is the place where Mr. Zhang Daqian ate barbecue during his lifetime. Below the broiler is a fire plate, which is used to loosen branches and light the fire. These tools are very similar to the equipment in Beijing Barbecue Wan. It can be seen that Mr. Daqian eats barbecue in a very traditional way.It is said that when Mr. Daqian eats barbecue, he must be grilled personally, which is also in line with the rules of the previous barbecue Wan and barbecue season.Even earlier, Mr. Daqian lived in the "Bade Garden" in Brazil, and he did the same thing. He didn't eat Brazilian barbecue.I have eaten Brazilian barbecue twice near Xidan, Beijing, with a total of 13 dishes, including pig, beef, lamb, and chicken.The chef holds a large piece of meat in front of you with an iron skewer, cuts one or two slices with a sharp knife according to your requirements, and puts them on the plate.After a while, I will come again and change to another type of barbecue. Thirteen times like this, it is thirteen courses of barbecue. Eat Chinese roast pork sake.The barbecue that Mr. Daqian eats will never be called "Mongolian barbecue". It is not known whether he will eat it with pineapple.