Chapter 5 say bad

The history of Chinese drinking is closely related to "rituals". "Book of Rites Nei Ze" once divided wine into heavy wine, rice wine, and clear wine.Uncleaned wine with dregs, or cleared dross can be called bad.Dross is the waste after wine making, but it can be used to cook food and make the best use of everything. It is also a great invention of the Chinese.When interpreted as a noun, it is a condiment for cooking; when interpreted as a verb, it becomes one of the means of cooking. The history of bad food is also very long. I remember that it was written in the book that Kong Qun was addicted to alcohol. Director Wang used the example of the cloth covering the wine jar to be rotten by the wine, but Kong Qun said that bad meat can be stored for a long time. And retorted.It can be seen that marinating meat with bad food was very common in the Jin Dynasty. "New Tang Shu Geography" records that the famous soil tribute in Anlu County, Anzhou has bad bamboo shoots.Poor utilization is very extensive, regardless of animals, plants can be used.Yang Wanli, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, said, "How delicious is the taste, but the frost claws are slightly bad." The claws are crab claws. It can be seen that even crabs can be eaten badly in the Song Dynasty.In people's impression, it seems that the south has a lot of bad food, while the north has very little, which is actually a misunderstanding.Shandong cuisine is best at using fragrant grains, and there are no less than 20 or 30 kinds of chicken, duck and fish.There is also a famous dish in Guanzhong, "Baorou", which has been an indispensable dish in the reception or public banquets sent by Shaanxi government since Tang and Song Dynasties, so it is called "Yamen cuisine".Since the Qing Dynasty, bad dishes have become more widespread. Check the Qing palace menu, the dishes recorded in the book, or Yuan Mei's dishes.As for Shanghai, Jiangsu and Zhejiang, it is even more common. In these places, it is sweltering in summer, and people have poor appetite, especially greasy and delicious food, so bad food has become a delicacy for rice and porridge.Dirty meat foods can relieve greasy food, such as "bad chicken", "bad fish", "bad feet claws", "bad pig feet", etc., which can be served with wine or with meals.Shanghainese also like to eat "drunk" food, which is made with rice wine, such as "drunk shrimp", "drunk crab" and "yellow mud snail".Once at a banquet in Jiangnan Village Restaurant in Hangzhou, the dishes on the table were full of bad and drunk things, especially the pot of drunk shrimp in the middle. After two or three minutes, take off the lid of the pot, and there are still some wriggling and fresh ones. Although the taste is delicious, I always feel that it is too cruel.In addition, there are many "drunk mud snails", "drunk crabs" and bad meat.The host said that I am from the north, and asked about the difference between bad and drunk. I briefly answered that the difference between bad and drunk is that there is "fire" gas or no "fire" gas, just like a piece of porcelain. No matter how good the body and glaze of the antique ones are, and how similar the shape is, they will eventually have the "fire" energy of new porcelain, which is not like the "fire" energy of old objects that has completely disappeared.Drunkenness comes out of hot water, and it is quick and violent, so the fresh fragrance of the original thing is preserved, and this "fire" makes the drunken thing even more radiant.Worse, it is soaked out slowly, it takes some effort, and the "fire" is completely gone, so the taste is mellow.Although both have the aroma of wine, there are differences in thickness.The master clapped his hands and made a big statement.

Distiller's grains can be roughly divided into three categories as raw materials, namely distiller's grains, fragrant grains and red grains.The so-called distiller's grains are the distiller's grains of Shaoxing wine. The distiller's grains are mostly used for the distiller's grains mentioned above.Sometimes it is also served with other auxiliary materials, such as rice wine, wine medicine, etc.For example, the most famous "Pinghu Dregs" is to put the duck eggs that have been shelled and leave underwear, together with distiller's grains, sweet wine medicine and glutinous rice, into an urn to seal, and after a long summer, the seal will be unsealed. Served together, the taste is excellent.Dirty chicken and meat are simmered directly with dregs, which need to be cooked thoroughly, steamed and eaten after cooling.Fragrant grains can be said to be a re-product of distiller's grains. My homemade fragrant grains are distiller's grains bought from Xianheng Hotel, added with Shaoxing rice and pickled osmanthus, sealed in a jar, and it will not deteriorate for a year or two. Only take the upper liquid at this time.The fragrant grains used in the fragrant grains dishes of Beijing Shandong Restaurant are basically made in this way.Cuihualou's "Fragrant Dried Fish Fillet" and "Zaoliu Sanbai", Tongheju's "Zaoliu Loin" and Dongxinglou's "Zaoliu Duck Liver" are all made from distiller's grains.The taste of lees is sweet, and the mellow aroma of the wine is slightly lighter, which is very palatable.Red grains are mostly used in Fujian cuisine, and the color is bright red, because a little red rice is added to the distiller's grains.The well-known Fujian famous chef "Shuang Qiang" (Qiang Mugen and Qiang Ququ together) is a master of red rice dishes.

The application of distilled food is not limited to poultry, duck, fish and eggs. Vegetables and beans can also be distilled. The prepared side dishes can be stored for a relatively long time, but you should choose varieties with less water or have been dried.I have eaten badly made edamame, but it is quite distinctive.It is said that Fujian Minqing is the hometown of "bad vegetables".