Chapter 54 Wonton, Wonton and Chao Shou

In "Water Margin", Song Jiang mistakenly boarded a thief boat, and was asked by Zhang Heng, "Will you eat noodles or wontons?"Zhang Heng's service attitude is good, and he also explained in detail: Bandao noodles are cut by a knife, and wontons are made by diving into the water to save the master a knife.Although there are some black humor, but it is really vivid and picturesque. Wonton is distinguished by its shape, which is related to "chaos".In the Song Dynasty, it was said that wontons were eaten during the winter solstice, probably because the strength of wontons combined with the meaning of opening up the universe and the universe.Later generations in the north also called "winter solstice dumplings and summer solstice noodles". They wanted to come to the same family of wontons and dumplings, but accidentally split the business.The pronunciation of "wonton" in Cantonese is similar to that of "wonton" in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, while the so-called "chaoshou" in Sichuan is obviously wonton.

Therefore, wonton, wonton, and Chaoshou are roughly the same thing, and they are called differently in different places.But because they are located in different places, there are more differences-like three brothers living in three places, and over time, there are differences in appearance, skin color and body. Of course, Guangdong wonton, Sichuan Chaoshou and Jiangsu and Zhejiang wonton can be related, but they are very different from northern dumplings.The dumpling skins are round and thick, the fillings are bulging, and the sides are pinched to wrap. After boiling, they look white and fat at first glance, but when you bite into them, they are fragrant.The northerners call the original soup the original food, and the dumpling soup is white water with a little flour fragrance.Those who are more savvy must find good vinegar to eat dumplings.Wonton wrappers are square and thin, folded and wrapped with fillings, and they are elegant in appearance. They are often cooked in soup, and they are graceful in pots.

Wontons are thinner than dumplings, and the fillings are more delicate.There are all kinds of talk and songs in the dumpling belly, but Lan Xinhui's quality and scholarly family is much better than wonton.In the old days, there were wonton pickers, with wontons and original soup on one end, and copper pots and stoves for boiling water at the other end, which were sold on the move.After I grew up, such masters who sold wontons were rare.In my impression, the wontons made by the old masters were all handmade, so the taste is better than those in the store.Most of the old shops in Jiangsu and Zhejiang can't escape the arrangement and combination of pork, mustard, shrimp, vegetables, green onion and ginger.The pork is plump, the shrimp meat is smooth, and the vegetables and pickled mustard have a fine taste with silky grains. After cooking, the translucent skin is ready to come out. What is needed is a smooth and firm taste.During the Republic of China, Ma Lianliang’s mansion had a midnight snack, and there was the famous duck wonton, probably made from duck meat that is tight and fresh.Cantonese wonton stuffing uses whole shrimp balls, finely chopped pork leg meat as a foil, so that the white and clean shrimp balls are a bit like golden hawthorn clothes, and the teeth are springy and moist when bitten down.Of course, dried fish, celery, scallops, and leeks can all be added as appropriate.In recent years, the fillings of various wonton shops have changed a lot. Dried scallops, shiitake mushrooms, bacon, bacon, chestnuts, etc. have appeared one after another, showing the boldness of Cantonese-style wontons.Sichuan Chaoshou’s fillings are smaller and finer: one of the typical stuffings I’ve seen a lot is fluffy cut pork, made into tender water fillings, which has the charm of Xiaojiabiyu.It is said that Ni Zan, who invented Yunlin goose, also loves wontons. He said that there is a kind of wonton filling, which is meat stew, "you can add bamboo shoots, rice, wild rice stems, leeks, and rattan flowers, and wrap it evenly with a little Sichuan pepper and almond paste."The meat is added with bamboo shoots and seasoned with sauce. It can be seen that pork has always been the most popular filling for wontons throughout the ages.

The Buddha needs to be dressed in gold, and the beauty lies in the matching of human clothes.The skin of Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons is often a little thicker. If it catches up with the large vegetable and meat wontons, the thickness of the skin can directly match that of dumplings.Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons are not like dumplings, which need to be folded. There are really mother-in-laws who see that their daughter-in-law's wontons are not folded well, so they start to teach others.Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons are best made with chicken soup, bone soup, Suxi and the like, plus shredded egg skins and dried shreds.Use the soup to soak the skin without losing the true color of pasta.The good soup is boiled so that the skin is fresh, and the filling is fresh, the skin is moist and the soup is thick, and each of them has its own place.Yuan Mei thinks that wontons should not be big, and should be served with chicken soup. Jiangnan and Huaiyang have the same rate, so Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons, with fillings, skins and soup, are full of five flavors, and they are more like a staple food.Guangdong wonton and Sichuan chaoshou are similar in one thing: the soup and skin are much finer than Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and for the taste, they like to beat eggs in the wonton skin.Li Ximenqing asked to take meat bream and add a few shreds of chicken, and add sour bamboo shoots and leeks to make a bowl of wonton soup. Such care is everywhere in Guangdong.Guangdong wonton skin is extremely thin, similar to Fujian small wonton, with the demeanor of a beautiful woman's skin.So when the wonton is served, it looks like a round stuffing wrapped in a white skirt.The soup of Guangdong wonton, the best I have ever eaten is boiled earth fish, which is fragrant and delicious.The fresh soup is as thin as a sheet of paper, so the soup and skin of wontons are often sparkling and flowing, while the filling is like Dinghaishen iron, calm and motionless.After eating shrimp stuffed wontons, the shrimp stuffing flicks your teeth and tongue in your mouth, and the skin and soup fall into the stomach together, so you understand what it means to "drink wontons".It's just that Guangdong wontons don't seem to be folded and rolled like Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons, so they can be wrapped quickly, so sometimes they look like steamed dumplings with less filling.The skin of Sichuan Chaoshou is not inferior to that of Guangdong Wonton. The traditional Long Chaoshou emphasizes flour mixed with eggs, so the dough is chewy, and the soup base has more sauces. It can be clear soup or red oil, and the personality is much calmer.Longchao Shou is very small, usually not strong enough to play and plump, and doubles the fragrance and softness.The good thing is that chaoshou is smooth and smooth, with soft and fresh fillings, and chaoshou is more like a snack than Guangdong wonton and Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons.

Therefore, to eat Jiangsu and Zhejiang wontons, you can choose lunch in winter. Wait until a large bowl of wontons floats up and down in the store. Take a plump bite and eat the fresh soup with shredded shrimp and old stuffing. As the so-called "a hot line goes straight to the stomach".To eat Guangdong wonton, fortunately, in the summer evening, order a bowl at the tea restaurant, let the mouth be stroked by the semi-fluid soup and skin, and then bear the freshness and elasticity of the shrimp.To eat Sichuan Chaoshou, fortunately, at midnight in autumn, you can order a bowl on the street, add some red oil to the soup, and then the soft skin, the filling that melts in your mouth, and the broth that quickly melts all of the above will flash through your teeth.