Chapter 4 Section 3 Overseas Underwear Brands——Sculptors of Women's Ideal Self

Foreign underwear brands are basically divided into two camps: American brands and European brands.American brands are good at creating refreshing marketing concepts, while European famous brands are slightly better in handmade, mysterious and noble.But both of them have accurately grasped the ups and downs of sexy, confident, capable and other elements in women's ideal self-image, and in the process of brand building, these abstract elements have been embodied through design, materials, models, promotional ideas, etc. come out.So much so that female consumers regard these brands as synonymous with "perfect women, exquisite life".Hong Kong female writer Zhang Xiaoxian once described this: "I have a beautiful chest of drawers. When I open every drawer, it is full of exquisite lace La Perla underwear arranged according to color. The most exciting time is when I heard that Linka When La Perla is on sale, you can’t find ordinary cups during the discounts, and friends who only have a D cup often gain a lot.”

What superb means do European and American brands have?Let's take a peek at one or two of a few stories. American Mei Dengfeng underwear was founded in the 1920s. At that time, people believed that flat chest and thin body were the ideal body shape, so women at that time often used cloth belts to tighten their chests and squeeze their bodies into a flat shape. Let long strands of pearls dangle perfectly from the dress.However, the head of Meidengfeng always insists that women are the most beautiful only if they have curves, so the products received mediocre response in the 20th century. This trend of flat breasts did not last long. In the 1930s, the trend suddenly changed, and high breasts became an important condition for women's aesthetics.Meidengfeng underwear started its glorious journey. In 1928, it launched the world's first bra with cups - an elastic band connecting the two hemispherical coverings.Compared with the original one-piece bra, the cup fits the female breast line well, making the female concave and convex. The "cup bra" has been warmly welcomed by women, and many customers have requested the production of this kind of bra. Mei Dengfeng has also become a favorite underwear brand for American women.

After that, Meidengfeng gradually started the road of brand advertising.The advertisements in the 1930s and 1940s were quite satisfactory: for example, in Figure 1-7, two modern girls are wearing underwear and smiling brightly. The words "young and fashionable" are printed above the photos of the girls, accompanied by detailed product descriptions, including materials. , price, and in the center of the entire poster is a big Meidengfeng trademark.The advertisement is concise and easy to understand, but it is no different from other companies' underwear advertisements, and the brand image is not clear.But in fact, such a low-key and practical style met the needs of the society at that time: during World War II, although the United States was not hit by war, the people just came out of the shadow of the Great Depression, and it was by no means a peaceful and prosperous age of singing and dancing; After the Pearl Harbor incident broke out in 1941, American society felt the cruelty of the war more personally. President Roosevelt declared that the United States had entered a state of war, and almost all men of school age were drafted into the army.The men went to war, and the factory was almost paralyzed.War requires a lot of equipment and supplies, who can support such a heavy task?At this time, the "full-time housewives" in the United States stepped out of their homes and entered the factories to let the production lines run rumblingly again.In such a turbulent era, the women in the rear are not most concerned about whether they are sexy or not, but how to maintain their family's livelihood and provide good logistical support for the American soldiers who participated in the war.The image of a strong and capable female factory worker is what women admire.Mei Dengfeng obviously understands what women think in their hearts. Low-key and practical advertisements are suitable for women in wartime.

When World War II ended in 1945, Western countries, especially the United States, whose homeland had not been hit hard by the war, fell into a sea of ​​singing and dancing.People walked to Times Square to dance, strange men and women even kissed, and the social atmosphere was completely opposite to that of wartime.At the same time, with the demobilization of men after the war, women were forced to leave their jobs and return to their families, and attractiveness once again became an important topic in their lives.Mei Dengfeng did not lag behind. In 1949, it designed a bra named "Qingge", which was also nicknamed "missile/torpedo" bra, because the cup of this bra was designed to be round and straight. The round and round woven patterns on the surface of the cup make women's breasts stand out like missiles, full of sexual temptation.The "Qingge" bra with thrilling visual effects was sold out after its launch and became popular in more than 100 countries.With "Qingge", Meidengfeng once again became the focus of women's attention. This is still because it has grasped the change of women's ideal self and vividly reflected this change through underwear products, helping women express their future. Ideals that can be expressed in words are sought after by female consumers, which is naturally reasonable.

Whether it is the world's first cup-style bra or the famous "missile-style" bra, they are all successful creations of Mei Dengfeng.But what makes it most commendable is the "I Dream" series of advertisements that it started in 1949.In this series of posters, the protagonist is always a young and beautiful woman. Her lower body may be wearing a young lady's lotus leaf skirt, or a noble and mature evening dress skirt, or patent leather luminous leggings, or even a circus Joker's wide-leg pants.But no matter how the lower body clothing changes, the heroine will always wear only one bra on her upper body.In contrast to this is the ever-changing background and lines. For example, the background is countless miniature heroines with only corsets on their upper bodies, wearing various masks and headgear, and performing various dance steps. , the heroine’s vermilion lips are slightly parted, her crescent eyebrows are lightly raised, and she spits out the sentence "I dream, I wear Meidengfeng underwear and attend a masquerade ball"; or, the background is a patch of grass and a strong bull, and the charming heroine has high hair Gathered high, wearing white gloves, easily holding the bull's horns, smiling confidently and saying, "I dreamed that I was wearing a Maiden Peak bra and holding the bull's horns". The "My Dream" series has been going on for more than 20 years, with backgrounds and lines emerging one after another. What remains unchanged is that the heroine's upper body will always only wear Mei Dengfeng underwear, and the lines are unexpected.

The designer of this series of advertisements, Norman Craig Carmel Advertising Company, learned from a psychological test report that women have a potential to show off, so they launched a series of advertising campaigns accordingly. Express women's hidden desire for performance, desire for control, and desire to be charming and confident. The "I Dream" series is the most beautiful campaign in this advertising campaign.What's not known is that before the "I Dream" ad hit the market, the company had digital women judge it.But after they saw the ad creative, they were stunned and resolutely opposed this form of ad expression.However, the advertising company not only did not cancel the idea, but also readily expressed that what they want is this kind of effect. They hope that the advertisement of Meidengfeng underwear can express the ideals that women do not easily express. They can be whimsical and aggressive. , with sexual connotations, etc.Facts have proved that the advertising company is correct. After the "I Dream" series of advertisements were officially broadcast, they successfully entered the top three seats in the "Most Popular Ads for Housewives", and Meidengfeng once again became famous.It seems that women are really different animals. Whoever hits the ideal deep in their hearts is regarded as a confidant by them.

It is worth noting that although Mei Dengfeng has implemented the style of "not surprising and endless" in the "I Dream" series of advertisements, it has never ignored the impact of changes in the times on women's ideal selves. The "I Dream" series of advertisements lasted for more than 20 years, from 1949 to the end of the early 1970s: the early period was the era when women returned to the role of good wives and mothers after the end of World War II, and the development to the 1960s coincided with Feminism is on the rise, and the second wave of feminist movements is gaining momentum.The advertisement of Meidengfeng adapts to the current situation, and through the change of the content of "I dream", it vividly shows the transformation of women's self-positioning. The "dreams" in the 1950s were often extremely feminine, such as "I dreamed that I wore Mei Dengfeng underwear and went to a masquerade ball" mentioned above, or "I dreamed that I wore Mei Dengfeng underwear and became I became a courtesan", or "I dreamed that I wore Mei Dengfeng underwear and became a work of art", and "I dreamed that I wore Mei Dengfeng underwear and became a beauty pageant champion": women's dreams are always associated with beauty. The combination of beauty, attractiveness, and attention fit the ideal image of a woman returning to her traditional identity in the 1950s. The "I Dream" of the 1960s was very different. The light grades included lines such as "I dreamed that I went to fight a fire in Meiden Peak underwear" and "I dreamed that I played pool in Mei Dengfeng underwear"; It is like the dream of "holding the bull's horn" in the previous article; for heavy taste, the heroine will casually say to the audience "I dream, I wear Mei Dengfeng underwear, and control the earth in the palm of my hand".In the wave of feminism, the ideal self of a woman is no longer a sexy and beautiful woman, but a confident and omnipotent superwoman.Through the design of advertising lines and the change of heroine's image, Meidengfeng successfully fits the transformation of women's ideal self in the past 20 years, so the brand maintains a confidant status in the minds of female consumers that keeps pace with the times.

The annual rings turned to the 1970s, and the feminist movement turned from radical to rational, and the "I Dream" series of advertisements, which had been popular for 20 years, finally withdrew from consumers' vision.It was replaced by an ad from the "She's Everywhere" series.In the poster, the heroine has an extra coat on her upper body, but it must not be buttoned, so that the corset can be seen at a glance.She jumped out of the helicopter, her leather jacket fluttering in the wind, her corset and tight trousers outlined her hot body; With her hair all combed back, her white bra and lake blue long trench coat complement each other perfectly, she is skillfully broadcasting a baseball game to the camera with a microphone in her hand; the next time she appears in a bar, she is wearing a cynical smile , wearing a corset, ignoring the whispering man not far away, is concentrating on playing darts, hitting every shot.She could be anywhere and looks amazing on every occasion.At this time, the lines sounded: "Meidengfeng woman, you never know where she will appear".In this series of commercials, there are no more whimsical dreams, but the heroine is equally confident and well-mannered in real scenes.I have to admire the advertising company hired by Mei Dengfeng, keeping up with the times. When women's ideal self changes from a "superwoman" to a normal woman, the advertisement also restrains the unrealistic elements, but makes women realize , It turns out that in real life, confident women are also so charming.

Into the 1980s, Mei Dengfeng made a new advertisement.The new campaign focuses on men, and uses men's words to describe how attractive women are in Mei Dengfeng's underwear, while female characters and women's underwear do not appear throughout the advertisement.At first glance, this is an interesting concept, but after careful consideration, since feminism has developed and women have regarded intelligence and independence as essential qualities, why should men decide what underwear they should wear?This clearly goes against the ideal self-image of women.Sure enough, female viewers did not buy the advertisement, and they even complained that the absence of real underwear and female characters was disrespectful to women.As a result, this series of publicity quickly died down.

The ups and downs of Meidengfeng’s history in the past 90 years, let’s look back at Figure 1-8 to make a visual display: As shown in the previous section on the history of underwear, the black and gray curves represent the evolution of women’s ideal self-image. An ideal self consists of two elements: sexy, self-confidence, and intelligence.The small black circles in this picture represent the self-positioning of the Meidengfeng brand. It has had two serious missteps.The first time was at the beginning of the brand's establishment in the 1920s, when American women pursued a "flat" figure and sneered at the sexy meaning brought by curves (as shown in the picture, black curves dominate, and the sexiness represented by gray curves is not popular. ), Meidengfeng did the opposite, focusing on shaping the breast shape of the product, positioning itself on the gray curve, and was beaten into the cold palace as a result.The second time happened after the 1980s. At this time, American women had already regarded self-confidence, independence, and wisdom as an indispensable part of their personality, but Mei Dengfeng planned a series of "Praise Wearing Mei from a Man's Perspective." The ad for “A Woman in Underwear” has no female image or underwear itself, and is all men’s judgments, which is obviously contrary to the ideal self-image of women in the 1980s. It can be seen from Figure 1-8 that this is a thorough Complete deviation!After the ad was aired, it was not good reviews, but complaints from female consumers. They thought that the absence of women and underwear in the Meidengfeng ad did not pay attention to women!So this plan ended up with a disastrous end.

In the past few decades, Meidengfeng has successfully grasped the ideal self of women and positioned the brand on the main curve of the ideal self. In the 1930s, the trend of flat breasts was over, and large breasts and thin waists became the standard of female beauty again.At the right time, Mei Dengfeng launched the world's first bra with cups, which is exactly what women want. The brand took this opportunity to leap from obscurity to the list of well-known American brands. In the 1940s, the brand began to use bus stops, newspapers and other media to advertise. During World War II, American men of the right age enlisted in the army one after another, and women shouldered the heavy responsibility of making factories operate. Sex was once again left behind. Durable Underwear is what they need, and Mei Dengfeng's advertisements are also very knowledgeable about current affairs. They only carefully describe the product's description, available colors, sizes, etc., and minimize other "nonsense". After the end of World War II, American society was full of joy. Men were demobilized, women returned to their families, and topics such as sexiness and femininity became the focus of their lives. Mei Dengfeng launched the "missile-style" bra in 1949, focusing on highlighting the proud curves of women. , sold out as soon as it was launched, it must be said that it has the effect of "hitting women's psychology"; at the same time, in 1949, the brand also launched the "I Dream" series of advertisements. In the next ten years, the women in the advertisements They, wearing only Meidengfeng underwear on the upper body, are bright and sexy on various occasions, and they are the most beautiful women in the world. They accurately capture the needs of American women in the 1950s: whether they are waiting for a family or married, sexy charm is always a woman The magic weapon for winning. For American women, the 1960s was an era of women's rights. Radical feminists called on women not to wear underwear, and even planned to burn underwear, because it was "the shackles of women", although the "I Dream" series of advertisements Still going on, but the content has been amended accordingly: instead of complacent about being sexy and beautiful, the woman wearing the Meiden Peak underwear dreams of accomplishing what the man does, even the Things men couldn't do either, so advertising remained popular in the 1960s. In the 1970s, the most turbulent wave of the feminist movement had passed, and women began to think about their rights more rationally. A new series of advertisements "I'm Everywhere" on Meidengfeng officially appeared on the stage. It is as absurd and whimsical as the "I Dream" series, but it shows how confident and capable women are in Mei Dengfeng underwear in real scenes.All in all, when women aim at sexy goddesses, Meidengfeng focuses on promoting the graceful figure of women; when women want to be strong women, it makes women omnipotent. From the 1930s to the end of the 1970s, the brand positioning of Meidengfeng has always been in line with the ideal self of women, just like the small black circle in Figure 1-8, which has always been positioned on the upper curve of each era.Because of this, Mei Dengfeng shined in the American underwear market between the 1930s and 1970s. Looking at the global underwear industry, Victoria's Secret definitely enjoys a great reputation. Its status in the underwear industry is like Nike to sports brands, and Chanel to women's clothing brands.Although most of its products are not expensive and can be afforded by ordinary people, its flagship store on Fifth Avenue is adjacent to world famous brands such as Louis Vuitton and Armani, which is not inferior.When tourists from all over the world come to New York, Jiping will make a "pilgrimage" to this store. Surprisingly, this shining brand is only 33 years old! In 1977, a Stanford graduate named Roy Raymond opened a lingerie store in San Francisco.Mr. Raymond has always believed that men buy women's underwear, so he used a lot of black cloth and leather in the store decoration, creating an erotic and quite sadistic effect.But in 1977, women were already independent financially and ideologically, so the style of "men dominate women" was completely unpopular with women, and Victoria's Secret was never popular. The reversal of the situation occurred in the 1980s. In 1982, Limited Brands acquired Victoria's Secret, which was on the verge of bankruptcy, from Raymond and carried out a major shake-up of the brand.First of all, the black decoration in the store was removed and replaced by a pink tone, which filled the space with the romantic sweetness of a women's boudoir.At the same time, Limited Brands carefully compiled a story about the founder of the brand: her name is Victoria, and she is of mixed English and French; she is noble and fashionable, beautiful and intelligent, and she opened a small underwear shop full of European style on the streets of London... In order to make the story To be more realistic, the company even registered a fake address based in London. Victoria's Secret did not make any innovations in the function of underwear, but the "store owner" Victoria became an ideal role model for female consumers and successfully captured the hearts of a lot of women.The brand quickly became popular, and its average selling price was $10 higher than similar products, but its sales grew the fastest.Soon, Victoria's Secret became one of the best-known underwear brands in the United States. But Limited Brands knows that without further publicity, Victoria's Secret will not be able to drift away with just a fictional story, and it is lucky to win the brand defense battle. In the late 1990s, in order to inject new blood into the brand, the company started a series of "unusual" marketing activities. In 1999, during the American Super Bowl, Victoria’s Secret organized its underwear models to enter the arena for the show during the intermission of the game and broadcast live on the Internet. As a result, it attracted 1.5 million people from all over the world to log on to the website to watch, causing the network to be paralyzed, directly affecting the Super Bowl live.Since then, the live webcast of the lingerie show has become a must-have event for Victoria's Secret every year. Men want to watch it, women love it, and the world is crazy about it.In 2006, Victoria's Secret successfully held an underwear conference on the New York Stock Exchange.Even this mysterious place controlled by financial crocodiles and traders who call the wind and rain falls under the pomegranate skirt of the model.Such is the ambition, glamour, and power of Victoria's Secret. At the same time, Victoria's Secret is an extremely sexy brand, not only in its bright and attractive underwear products, but also in its models.Let's see how the audience described it: Victoria's Secret models' long hair is natural and slightly curly, like they just woke up and haven't groomed or experienced a perfect sex.The faces of the models are naturally charming, with red faces, misty eyes, and lips that look like they have just been kissed... If underwear products convey static sex appeal, then what the models express with every frown, smile, and gesture is a kind of Vivid, alive sexiness: this is definitely more heart-pounding. Since the new millennium, in order to make models not only attractive to men, but also perfect women in women's minds, Victoria's Secret has started a unique model training program.First, when selecting models, it rejects skinny figures in favor of plump, healthy models.For example, among its favorite digital models, Heidi?Cram, Doutzen?Kloss has a round body and even has a little baby fat on the cheeks, but this does not affect their sexy charm in the slightest.At the same time, Victoria's Secret also encourages all its models to develop second careers: on the one hand, the brand provides promotion opportunities within the company, and models with suitable conditions can be promoted to the company's management; on the other hand, it actively helps models transform, no matter what the model wants Becoming a rookie in the business world, a media practitioner, or a financial expert, the company will try its best to provide them with training courses, networking, and even venture capital to help models make achievements in new fields.The executives of the company said: "What we want to cultivate is not a beautiful vase, but a model of modern women." The company puts the most effort into cultivating the "angels" of Victoria's Secret.There are as many as dozens of models who have signed contracts with the company, and the most outstanding ones will be designated as "angels" by the brand.Once a model becomes an angel, the company will fund and build it in all directions. Charity activities, fashion parties, brand conferences, the main show of the annual underwear show, and the dense itinerary will quickly increase her popularity and influence in all walks of life. .Open Victoria's Secret's list of angels, among the ten most expensive models in the world, angels occupy six seats.Under the support of the company, the angels are outstanding in all aspects, how can they not envy other women? Victoria's Secret's special model policy has indeed cultivated many extraordinary angels: Al Macpherson, the former Queen's model of Victoria's Secret, bid farewell to his modeling career and founded the Al Macpherson underwear brand by himself, extending his familiarity with underwear to his new work.Today, inner underwear has become a household name in Australia, with sales averaging $70 million a year.At the same time, Al Macpherson is also a charity ambassador for UNICEF.As for the family, she is also a good wife and mother, and spends a few months every year traveling with the whole family.Career and family are well-organized, which is the model that modern women aspire to be. Heidi Klum, the model with the second highest endorsement fee in the world, with an annual income of 14 million U.S. dollars, is still one of Victoria's Secret's most beloved angels at the age of 31.When she debuted at the age of 19, she won the championship of the German Model TV Contest. Just as the model agency was eager to sign her a contract, Heidi did not accept the olive branch, but went to study art history first.That's what's in her mind.But what fascinates her even more is her confident and optimistic personality.Contrary to her thriving career, Heidi's emotional life was full of ups and downs. Her first marriage lasted five years; then she met Renault team boss - F1 playboy Briatore, and had a brief Not long after, the media photographed Briatore kissing the daughter of the Swarovski Crystal Group passionately, so Heidi resolutely left with a five-month pregnancy.The two failed emotional experiences did not dampen her confidence in love and family. Black singer Seale accompanied her to welcome the birth of her daughter with Briatore. On Christmas in 2004, Heidi and Seale tied the knot.Heidi, who gave birth to a child a year after marriage, has a sweet smile on her face: "My favorite role is to be a mother and wife." But don't think that Heidi will be willing to be a housewife, in fact, she is Returning to the stage five weeks after giving birth, she is still the soul and soul of the Victoria's Secret annual Angel show.She is also the host, judge and executive producer of the reality show Project Runway, which won a Peabody Award in 2008, the oldest award in global broadcast television and its first Give reality TV.In the same year, Heidi was also nominated for an Emmy Award for hosting "Project Runway", which was the first time that an Emmy Award gave such a high evaluation to a reality show.Not only that, but Heidi also has guest roles in several TV series and movies, including the familiar "Sex and the City" and "The Devil Wears Prada".The career is booming and the family is happy.Heidi Klum is like a myth in women's minds. Heidi's good friend Tyra Banks is another legend.She is an African American.In the modeling industry dominated by white actresses, she has become more and more courageous, and has won the reputation of black pearls.She once confidently said that "black girls' bodies have their own attractiveness".Confident and charming under the spotlight, she actually stumbled at the start of her career.Tyra began to join the modeling industry after graduating from high school. She applied to many modeling agencies in the United States, but was rejected.In desperation, she moved to Paris, and gradually became famous in the European fashion industry.After that, Tyra returned to the United States and officially flexed her muscles on the T stage in the United States.If it weren't for the self-confidence and perseverance at the beginning, maybe there would never be a dazzling black beauty in the list of supermodels. In 2005, Tyra officially quit the modeling industry after walking the Victoria's Secret fashion show and moved to other fields.Relying on her good personality and flexible mind, she can be regarded as smooth sailing in other positions.She is the host of the most popular reality TV show "Supermodel" in the United States. In 2008, the show has been filmed to the eleventh season. Therefore, Terra was named as the world's fifty most influential by "Time" magazine one of the characters.She also hosts her own talk show, The Tyra Banks Show, and the Super Fashion Editorial Battle with ELLE Magazine.In addition to being obsessed with her own career, Tyra is also an enthusiastic person for public welfare.She is the founder of T-Zone Summer Camp, which holds a week-long summer camp for girls every summer to help them learn sisterhood and train them to be independent and confident.Tyra also established a scholarship at her high school alma mater to help African-American students continue their studies. So far, more than 300 students have successfully entered the university with the help of Tyra.Another all-round popular modern beauty, why not envy the vast number of female consumers? Under Victoria's Secret, there are many such outstanding and charming angels.They not only have exquisite curves and sweet smiles that captivate all living beings, but also have intelligent minds and confident psychological qualities.Audiences who have watched the 2006 Victoria's Secret underwear show will be impressed by Rolena Kurkova's calmness and composure: this ice and snow beauty suddenly had a problem with her shoelaces before going on stage. The process, she appeared on the stage after a simple treatment, and she did not expect that the shoelaces were completely loosened after only a few steps; when the director and the audience were sweating for her, she looked calm, kept smiling, and decisively put the Only the broken shoe was thrown from the foot, and then she walked the catwalk with one bare foot and a high heel. The whole process was done in one go, as if nothing had happened.Those who are familiar with Miranda Kerr will be surprised by her career ambitions.This angel born in 1984 has a sweet and weak appearance, but a very strong heart.She participated in the "cover girl" competition when she was 13 years old, and won the first place, but she has been neither popular nor black, and can only go to some unknown second- and third-tier shows. It was not until the last two years that she started to take VS shows that she started to slow down. Slowly turn red.A rough calculation shows that this sweet girl has been in the modeling industry for more than 10 years before she became popular. In the career of modeling, most of the girls who have experienced such encounters have already sought other jobs. Miranda could really be called strong-willed.Now she is the girlfriend of Orlando Bloom, the elf prince and heartthrob in The Lord of the Rings.He had even proposed to her twice already, but Miranda turned them down both times!The reason is that I am too young and still want to focus on my career.In the eyes of ordinary girls, marrying a rich heartthrob is almost like child's play.But for the angels of Victoria's Secret, such a decision highlights their personality of "women don't give way to men".Such courage is enough to make them idols of women. Compared with singers and movie stars, modeling is an artistic career with a shorter stage life.But Victoria's Secret, through the multi-faceted training of models and the vigorous selection of angels, has allowed these elves to have a long career, and made the audience not only attracted by their appearance, but also by their careers. Achievements, life attitude relish.Even if you are a woman, you will be attracted by the demeanor of angels both inside and outside, and list them as the perfect women in your mind.Therefore, Victoria's Secret is very popular and can arouse the passion of consumers at any time. Let's look back at the change map of women's ideal self again, and see how Victoria's Secret rolls in the historical trend (as in the previous example, the small black circle represents the brand positioning). As shown in Figure 1-9, when Mr. Raymond founded Victoria's Secret in the 1970s, American women were still immersed in the aftermath of the feminist movement, and they demanded economic and ideological independence.But Victoria's Secret is now taking the line of "men help women buy underwear", and the store layout is also carried out in accordance with the "psychology of teasing men", using a lot of black furnishings and leather.How could such a style fit the ideal female self of the time?The brand positioning (black small circle) seriously deviates from the curve of women's ideal self, and business has been poor. It wasn't until Limited Brands acquired Victoria's Secret in 1982 that they removed the black in the store and replaced it with pink, and painstakingly made up a story about the head of the brand—Miss Victoria—that the brand incorporated sweetness and sexiness. , without losing the taste of independence and self-reliance, and gradually accumulated a group of fans. In the 1990s, Victoria's Secret spread its lingerie shows to male-dominated venues, such as the Super Bowl and even the trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange!Women's ambitions are fully rendered by the brand.At the same time, sexy elements are also used to perfection. In Victoria's Secret, underwear is no longer the traditional white, pink, gray, black, and flesh-colored colors used by other brands, but pink, light yellow, and lake blue. , and even a variety of bright choices of floral patterns, as if mixed with charming summer fragrance; and their models have also changed from the cold and unattainable image of beauties on the runway in the past, but through eyes, expressions, body The action is full of seductive interaction with the audience.No wonder Victoria's Secret is the first thing consumers think of when they think of lingerie shows. When the time comes to the 21st century, the brand conveys the concept that women can be "sexy and capable" through the training of models: on the one hand, it prefers healthy and round models; "Mechanism" to promote the most potential models under it to "brand angels" and fund them to pave the way for multi-faceted careers, not just on the runway; at the same time, Victoria's Secret also provides transformation opportunities for models Opportunities, whether they want to become company management, enter other professional fields, or start their own businesses, brands can provide them with training, networking, and even financial support.It is precisely because Victoria's Secret attaches great importance to model training that the brand spokesperson we see today is by no means a paper beauty on the runway, but shines in many fields such as hosting, performing arts, charity, and business Bright modern successful woman. Reflected in Figure 1-9, it is not difficult to find that since the 1980s, Victoria’s Secret has closely followed the two curves of sexiness and feminism, no matter whether a woman’s ideal self is "more sexy" or " Be stronger”, Victoria’s Secret can satisfy her heart’s desire: to “catch up” the women’s camp, no wonder the brand can stir up waves in the hearts of consumers with one stone. 1. Breaking new ground - let's impress men first In the first episode of Spielberg's "Back to the Future" in 1985, Roland said to Martin, the hero who travels through time and space: "Calvin, I have never seen red underwear before." Martin was puzzled: "Calvin, you Why do you call me Calvin?" "Isn't that your name—Calvin Klein? It's written on your underwear." Martin simply changed his name to "Calvin Klein", bringing CK underwear fashion back to 1955. Compared with the centuries-old underwear stores in Europe, the young CK has taken a unique approach and entered the underwear market with men's underwear as a breakthrough. In 1982, when other merchants were busy selling three pairs of underwear, CK broke the tradition of men’s underwear that only focused on practicality and launched sexy men’s underwear. Even though the price was much higher than other brands, within two weeks of listing, the sales reached 65,000 US dollars. Breaking through $2.5 million in three months. Why is CK underwear a blockbuster? CK推出内衣之前，CK时装与牛仔裤的确已经取得了一定的成绩，但单凭品牌效应似平还不足以让看起来如此普通的CK纯棉内衣裤受到追捧。 《时代》杂志将CK封为“无可争议的美国情色广告的先驱者”，通过广告传达出的性感诱惑才是CK内衣的杀手锏。 1982年8月，纽约时代广场挂出了一幅20米X30米高的巨幅海报，美国撑杆跳奥运金牌选手汤姆？辛特劳斯赤裸棕色健美的上身，修长的身体自然舒展，仅着白色CK内裤沐浴阳光，身后蓝天白云，极其抢眼。广告霎时轰动纽约，巨型海报第二天就不翼而飞，下落不明，超过50个贴有广告海报的公汽站台灯箱被砸烂，海报被偷。这张广告图被《美国摄影家》杂志评为“10张改变美国的图片”之一。如此诱惑的广告不仅让男人羡慕其健硕的身材，同样也吸引了为丈夫购买衣物的女士们。 其后CK内衣广告的性感挑逗程度可谓日益精进。瑞典第一帅哥球星永贝里毫不吝啬地展露他麦色的肌肉，胯部的猎豹刺青时隐时现，更和金发美女在床上亲密互动。这样的广告宣传图不仅让永贝里的女粉丝尖叫，普通人见到也难免脸红心跳。 曾获奥斯卡提名的好菜坞影星马克·沃尔伯格和吉蒙·休斯还有当红演员《暮光之城》男主角凯南·鲁兹等娱乐界、体育界的男星都在CK内衣广告史上有可圈可点的表现。对于这些男星而言，代言CK内衣也将他们的职业生涯推到了一个新的高峰，比如马克？沃尔伯格，无论他塑造多少成功的屏幕角色，广告中那个身材完美、姿势挑逗的形象也不会在观众心目中磨灭。当然，CK广告能如此成功，摄影师功不可没。CK毫不吝啬地聘请知名摄影师布鲁斯·韦伯亲自操刀汤姆·辛特劳斯的宣传案，由下而上的仰拍将模特的性感身材展露无遗，成功打响CK性感内衣广告的第一炮。与CK内衣合作过的摄影师还有声名远扬的彼得·林德伯格、帕特里克·德马舍利耶等等，不可尽数。 2.和男人一样性感干练的CK女人 回到女性内衣，1983年紧接着推出的CK女性内衣与男性内衣一脉相承，最性感的女星配搭最善于表达性感的摄影师。CK女性内衣最近启用的性感丰满女模特伊娃·曼德丝，2009年被美国知名男士网站Ask Men评为“99个男人最想要的女人”冠军，打败《变形金刚》女主角梅根·福克斯和维多利亚的秘密超模玛莉萨·米勒。当然，拥有极佳身材的名模克里斯蒂·特林顿、纳塔利·沃佳诺娃等也不会被CK落下，CK广告中女模特们姿态性感慵懒不在话下，不愧是“无可争议的美国情色广告的先驱者”。 除了宣传手法，CK女性内衣极具创造力地将男性内衣的独有设计引入女性内衣。多款女士底裤、比基尼等配有男士底裤的遮纽盖，CK女郎们仿佛穿上了男人的内衣，克菜恩说：“女人穿男人的底裤，会显得很热辣”。拥有这样的创造力和对性感的把握，CK的成功毫不意外。 CK内衣的性感无可争议，但是始于1980年代的CK内衣并不仅限于性感。和CK高级成衣、牛仔裤一样，CK内衣的设计也始终崇尚“极简”风格。内衣多为黑、白、灰等单一颜色，干净利落；布料和男士内衣一样，多为棉质；款式简洁清爽，毫无累赘；连内衣店面的布置，以纯白为底色，配以冷色灯光，内衣有序地挂在货架上，非常爽快简约。 作为20世纪80年代诞生的后起之秀，CK内衣从一开始就通过极其挑逗的广告宣传来传递性感的信息，从汤姆·辛特劳斯的性感海报一炮而红，其后20多年里，一路引领性感广告的风潮，不输维多利亚的秘密。另一方面，简约的内衣设计，纯色调、天然的内衣材料，以及简洁的店堂风格，充分张扬了CK品牌大气、爽朗，甚至渗着酷味的个性。性感加极简的风格一直都是CK内衣的卖点，又恰巧符合了20世纪80年代以后粉红曲线和蓝色曲线的走势，性感先行又不乏干练潇洒的气质，难怪它自问世起，就成为了纽约、香港等大都市中的职业女性的最爱品牌。 欧洲大陆上的名牌内衣大多历史悠久，沿袭贵族形象，推崇纯手工制作，大量采用蕾丝、剌绣，以内衣的设计与制作来体现雍容华贵的性感。法国名品仙黛尔、Lise Charmel，意大利的La Perla等都属于这一风格。接下来让我们看看比较有特色的品牌欧巴德。 欧巴德被法国著名时装设计师尚塔尔·托马称为“最有创造力的内衣品牌”。欧巴德最初起源于1875年以为医生创立小店Bernard et Cie，擅长制作医用束腰。1958年正式创立欧巴德品牌，打破女性内衣只着重功能性的困局，首个推出彩色内衣和内衣套装。20世纪70年代，女人们越来越将性感看作理想自我的重要元素，欧巴德的创造力在此期间发挥到极致：1972年率先推出无肩带内衣，1974年发明命扣式文胸，1975年发明吊袜腰带，1976年首个将性感华丽剌绣引入女性内衣，1979年发明性感丁字裤——每一次创新都帮助女人更好地散发自身性感魅力，这些设计甚至沿用至今。 欧巴德最深入人心的特色莫过于1992年开始推出“诱惑课堂”，如其广告中一张性感宣传图片配搭一句“金玉良言”，不仅给欧巴德女人们提供性感的外表，更要教她们如何从生活中的点点滴滴散发性感魅力，诱惑她的另一半。第一课说“给他一点微醉的感觉”，第二课倡导“用感情俘虏他”，第三课教育“在他的道路上设一些障碍”，第四课“提醒他你非常脆弱”，第五课“假装无所谓”……至今巳有104课。另外，欧巴德的户外宣传图片、每年发布的日历图册等全部采用黑白图，精致的内衣配搭完美的女性曲线，却因图像黑白而看不真切，性感之上铺上一层神秘的面纱，有谁能经得起诱惑呢？ 然而，虽然欧巴德将性感表达得淋瀹尽致，但女人的形象仍然局限于男人的依附品。从1875年的品牌前身，到1958年品牌创立到20世纪70年代的多次创新，直至21世纪，无论是设计上的突破还是宣传手段，无一不是在着力烘托其性感。欧巴德的成功在于抓住了时机，比如其品牌创立的时间正是性感意识高涨的20世纪50年代，一系列性感创新设计在性感曲线上扬的20世纪70年代开始推出，到20世纪90年代的诱惑课堂，也照样迎合了时代的需求。但遗憾的是，欧H德的品牌定位虽然紧贴性感曲线，却在表现女性自主精神方面并无建树，无论是在女权意识高涨的20世纪60年代还是女性地位提升的新世纪，欧巴德都没有针对时代潮流做出适当的响应。和欧巴德一样，欧洲大多数高档内衣品牌只在奢华精致的性感上下功夫，缺乏女性自主精神的传递，因而并不能够完全契合现代女性的理想自我形象。这也是为什么像欧巴德、La Perla这些的高端欧洲名牌，始终难以走出欧洲，在环球知名度和销量上无法与维多利亚的秘密等抗衡的原因之一。另一方面，欧洲品牌继承其“贵族血统”，定位过高，价格动辄上千，并非以OEM起家的中国内衣企业的理想模仿对象。