Chapter 53 See also Hanguan Weiyi

Clothes and hair are often closely related to politics.Confucius thanked Guan Zhong and said that without him, we would be in full hair.That is to say, you have to wear the same hair style as the barbarians and wear the same clothes - open the front from the left.However, in the later years, the Hu people who were chasing the Central Plains and catching the deer, in most cases, did not ask the Han people to be like them. Sometimes, they wanted to learn from the Han people instead.It seems that these barbarians didn't take Confucius' words seriously, and their attitudes were quite vague in terms of clothes and hair.This ambiguity was maintained until the full population entered the customs.The real barbarians, the race that is keen to use barbarians to change summers, are the Manchus.They used force to force the Han people to change their hairstyles and clothes.Shaved off most of the hair, leaving a little braided in the back, and the clothes naturally followed them - the left lapel.

For the hair on the top of the head, the Han people have been soft and hard for more than a hundred years, and finally shaved off most of the hair style to a symbolic shave of a small part in front of the forehead, achieving a restoration of about 30% off.As for the clothes, there was no sign of recovery at all, and everyone felt at ease.It's just that when they die, they put on the robes of the Ming Dynasty-it is said that this is the last resistance of the Han people at the time of the death of the Ming Dynasty.But everyone is dead, who will wear clothes for them?This kind of Hanfu even has little symbolic meaning.Needless to say, after more than two hundred years of Manchu rule, the vast majority of Han Chinese have become accustomed to political changes in clothing and hair.If it wasn't for foreigners coming in and insisting on laughing at the braids on the back of Chinese men's heads like pig tails, no one would think there is anything wrong with the braids.Many people also think that a shiny big braid looks pretty.When a man is married and a woman is married, if the girl secretly sees such a braid on the future man when discussing marriage, she will probably be happy.As for the Hu suit on the left lap, for most people, it is actually quite convenient to wear.After the buckle loop replaces the belt hook, after all, the right hand is much easier to use, and it is much more convenient to use the right hand to buckle or untie the buckle loop on the left side than to use the left hand in reverse.People are not only used to wearing braids, but also used to and enjoy Hufu.Therefore, even after the Republic of China, people, regardless of men and women, still mainly wear the Hu clothes of the Manchus.The robes and gowns of the upper classes, the double-breasted blouses of the lower classes (that is, the clothes we call Tang suits today), and even the cheongsams of women are all given by the Manchus.It is said that during the period of the Republic of China, Chen Shutong was wearing a gown and a suit, and an overseas student came back to see him and said, why do you still wear this?Chen Shutong said, what are you wearing?The foreign students said that I was wearing foreign clothes.Chen said, I also wear foreign clothes.

In the eyes of the revolutionaries, especially those who came from the Restoration Society, the Han people had already perished when the Qing Dynasty entered the customs.Zhang Taiyan claimed to be a "remnant of China". Even the nationalism in Sun Yat-sen's Three People's Principles also regarded the Manchus as foreigners, so he wanted to expel the Tartars.Naturally, the braids and Hu clothes that the Manchus forced the Han people to wear are all symbols of national shame.However, before the Revolution of 1911, revolutionaries tended to pay more attention to braids in terms of clothing.Even though there is a ban from the imperial court, if you can cut it, you will cut it all, because you really can't stand the ridicule of foreigners.For clothes, it is much more sloppy.Even if you wear a suit abroad, you will always wear a gown when you return home. No matter how shabby it is, it is still a long gown.Sun Zhongshan imitated Japanese school uniforms and designed the Chinese tunic suit, but it really became popular in the later era when the Kuomintang was in power. In that era, it was the Blue Shirt Club, which was determined to reform the Kuomintang, who advocated wearing the Chinese tunic suit. It was they who turned the Chinese tunic suit into Even so, in "cadre fashion", those who wore tunic suits every day in those days were often party members.Before the revolution was successful, it is believed that Zhang Taiyan was the only one who really changed his clothes.When the "Su Bao" incident happened, according to newspaper reports at the time, Zhang Taiyan was wearing a Taoist robe, which was actually not a Taoist robe, but a Hanfu he designed according to ancient rituals—a deep robe with a right lapel.When I got out of prison and went to Japan, I still had this Hanfu, but it was a little confused with Japanese kimonos. Later, I simply wore kimonos, just like the ones we saw in old photos.

The revolution is over, and the first social improvement step of the revolutionaries is to cut the braids.In changing clothes, I didn't put much effort into it.Neither Sun Yat-sen's Chinese tunic suit nor Zhang Taiyan's Hanfu was considered orthodox.Everyone still wears what they used to wear, and what else to wear.Only a few fellow villagers of Zhang Taiyan in Zhejiang Province would wear Ming Dynasty costumes to welcome the revolution and wear square scarves on their heads.Some members of the revolutionary party, however, felt the need to change their costumes.The most favored Hanfu by them is the nocturnal clothing worn by martial arts students in the costumes.Dress in black with colorful ribbons, a red pompom on a hat or scarf, and a steel knife and a box gun. Spiritual.Just like Wu Song and Shi Xiu on the stage.As soon as the revolution was successful, many such heroes appeared on the streets of Hankou and Changsha, and the Huidang in Sichuan and Guizhou probably did the same, and they had a strong love for costumes.In their view, this is the prestige of Han officials.Of course, in the eyes of the Huidang in Shaanxi, Wu Sheng's attire was obviously not dignified enough, so they sat in court to hear the case, and found the python robe and jade belt in the costume, and even put on soap boots, dressed just like Bao Gong in Peking Opera.When Sichuan became independent, Pu Dianjun, the leader of the road protection movement, became the governor. It is said that he wore a purple gold crown with pheasant feathers on his head, a big red robe, a jade belt around his waist, and a pair of soap boots on his feet.Some Pao brothers in Sichuan are especially fond of Daoist robes. Their thinking is similar to Zhang Taiyan, but they don’t understand Zhou rituals, so they come out in Taoist robes to show their Han official dignity.Coincidentally, at that time, in order to avoid being cut off by the revolutionary party, some people put on high hats, and when viewed from a distance, they looked like the impermanence described by Lu Xun.The tall hat and the toga are actually a perfect match.

Fortunately, the revolutionaries were not as people said, the revolution was to restore the Ming Dynasty and wear filial piety for Emperor Chongzhen.Although the Hui Party has a large number of people, it is not the mainstream of the Revolutionary Party after all.There are not enough costumes in the theater troupe to satisfy people's desire to restore the majesty of Han officials.Therefore, we can see that after the revolution, the big figures of the revolutionary party wore suits and gowns the most.Others naturally followed. Everyone just cut off their braids to prevent foreigners from laughing at them.