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Chapter 61 Guiyang tour

Mao Dun's Prose Collection 茅盾 1965Words 2018-03-18
In the spring of the twenty-seventh year, a lady who was evacuated from Changsha to Guiyang wrote to her relatives in Hankou, saying: "Guiyang is unexpectedly small. There is only one street. There is a shortage of goods. If you want the same, there is no difference. Here comes a message." Month, I couldn’t find the vegetable market. Later, the local people said to me: The vegetable market is right outside your gate, why don’t you say there is no such thing. This is strange, where is it, why can’t I see it. I asked someone to take me there. He Pointing to some small dandelion vendors outside the gate, this is not it! Oh, I just understood. The place with a few more small dandelions along the street is the vegetable market! I have never seen a province called the provincial capital. It’s so small! It’s not a city, it’s a countryside. My dear, you can guess the size of Guiyang just by thinking about our hometown. But our hometown is just a small town in the south of the Yangtze River! Lovely hometown Now it is gone, but I am in Guiyang, you can imagine how I feel?"

In the winter of the 27th year, the wife wrote to her relatives in Chongqing, saying: "The last enemy plane bombed and flattened one of the busiest streets! There is only one street in Guiyang!" The words of this young woman from the south of the Yangtze River may be too sentimental.Although Guiyang City is not big, it is the most benevolent area in the province after all, so it does not have an extraordinary appearance among the rustic.For example, the old-fashioned high-end hotels in the city were named "Six Kingdoms" and "Paris". Such a grand signboard is not something that a small town in the south of the Yangtze River dares to have.

But the "Six Nations" and "Paris" are now behind the times.Compared with the new construction in recent years, their ancient facades and small rooms look too shabby.After the bombing, Guiyang became more fashionable.If the relatives of the young woman from Jiangnan had been on Zhonghua Road in Guiyang in the spring of 30 years, she must have felt "pretty good".No need to brag on behalf of Guiyang, today there are three-story and four-story bungalows on South China Road, but even if most of them only have two floors, if you just look at the "artistic" facade and decoration (probably futuristic or something), who would have the heart to say It's "bumpy"?Besides, there are such big glass windows.In the eyes of a Chongqing customer who rarely sees glass, this is really ostentatious.

If nothing could be bought in Guiyang in the spring of 2027, it would be very different now.Now it is possible to say, "whatever you want, what you have". ——But limited to food and clothing.Under the item of "food", "spiritual food" is of course excluded.After three new bookstores were closed overnight, the atmosphere in the cultural market became even more bleak. Although the interior of the cinema is not exquisite enough, the facade can be called "magnificent", especially the hundreds of electric lights adorning the gate, which add a lot of color to Guiyang's night market.The few "barbershops" seem to be an indicator of how modern this mountain city has become.Just looking at the customers coming in and out, you can understand that the so-called "Shanghai-Hong Kong" and "noble cosmetics" are probably not fake at all.He looked after his head, so he naturally had to look after his feet.There is a shoe shine "company" here.The majestic two-bay facade, a dozen or so specially-made chairs, a dozen strong "skilled technicians", armed with large and small soft and hard brushes, real velvet wipes, black, dark brown and light brown , and even white real "gem brand" shoe polish, serving those noble customers with full energy.I have to confess: there aren't many guerrilla shoe shine boys.Whether it was influenced by that "company" or not, I don't know.But the "company" was really thoughtful. It also set up a few special chairs and ordered a few newspapers so that the distinguished guests who waited to be wiped during shifts would not be bored.

What surprised me was the strong smell of Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai in this southwest mountain city.On Zhonghua North and South Road, you can always hear the authentic Su Bai Yong Bai, and even blunt Shanghai dialect.You can see that many restaurants use "Suzhou" or "Shanghai" to mark their characteristics, and there is a "comprehensive" restaurant with a big book "Yangzhou Cuisine" on the billboard in front of the door.One dim sum shop is all "Shanghai Waitang", specializing in "hanging powder glutinous rice balls", "crape wontons", and "heavy sugar lard rice cakes".The "Le Luchun", which is often seen in Chongqing, also exists in Guiyang.People like the flavor of their hometown. The barbers, cooks, and tailors in the south of the Yangtze River actually "expeditioned" to a corner of the southwest. How do you feel about this compared with the few industrial immigrants?

The problem of "salt" seems to be gaining weight in Guiyang.The transportation company has driven a lot of salt trucks from Chongqing, and it is also common to see all kinds of human-powered trolleys full of salt passing by in groups on the highway.People in blue long gowns carry a pole on their shoulders, and at each end of the pole there are black stone-like things wrapped in linen or tied with ropes; these stone-like things are also salt.Such traffickers also stretch along the Sichuan-Guizhou Road.There is an "official sales office for salt" in Guiyang, and there are a lot of buyers; the official price per catty rises from one yuan four to one yuan eighty-seven cents in two days.However, this is still the official price, in other words, it is equal to the market price.

Miao people and Yi people are common in Guiyang City.The appearance of them in pleated skirts, bare feet, and leggings, together with their robes and high heels, on the same road makes people think about the complexity and depth of China's problems.The so-called "male essence utensils" is another characteristic of Guiyang City. The "male essence" is only realgar in its original form; there are actually no vessels carved into Buddha statues, flowers, fish and birds, and ruyi.The storefronts are very simple, but the instructions say amazingly: "Zha Xiongjing is a special mineral in Guizhou Province. It has not been found in all countries and provinces in the world. It goes without saying that it is precious; according to the Materia Medica, If you take it with you for a long time, it can lighten your body and avoid evil, prevent miscarriage, transfer female to male fetus, prevent miasma, kill poisonous snakes and insects, especially capable of doing things" and so on.

The so-called "Bronze Statue Platform" is the bronze statue of Zhou Xicheng①. In the center of Guiyang, it is considered the busiest and most "imposing" place in the city.It is said that there were cars in Guizhou, and Zhou Xicheng really opened the era; at that time, Zhou "operated" the roads of the whole province, starting from the provincial capital, so after buying a car, a large group of people climbed mountains and climbed mountains to carry it to Guiyang, and then put it on the road. Let's go, I'm afraid this is also a joke in China's "History of Xingxing Automobile".

① Zhou Xicheng (1893-1929) was born in Tongzi, Guizhou.From 1927 to 1929, he served as chairman of the Guizhou provincial government of the Kuomintang government. The streets around the bronze statue stand have obviously been bombed, and they are still in ruins.
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