Chapter 32 Taste the Nanxi River and Yandang Mountain

As the mid-autumn festival approached, the south was still scorching hot, and the car entered the Yandang Mountains along the winding Nanxi River.Yandang Mountain is a huge mountain system, divided into east, west and north. I went to North Yandang Mountain.It is said that there is a lake on the top of Yandang Mountain, on which reeds grow, and in the reeds, every autumn, there will be south-returning geese settling down for the winter. The lake is named Yandang, and the mountain is called Yandang Mountain. The main peak is 1,047 meters above sea level. Known as the first mountain in the southeast.

Nanxi River is a long and clear stream. The water in the wide part is as clear as a mirror, and the green hills are reflected, the sky is blue and the clouds are white, like a flowing green hill painting screen; flowing through the narrow bay, there are towering strange rocks, white waterfalls hanging in arcs, and surging waves pile up snow. The calm river is getting a little anxious.Moso bamboo, water bamboo, tea tree, tallow tree, camphor tree, banyan tree, pine tree, fir tree, maple tree, kudzu vine, green vine, etc. grow on both sides of the river. Blowing the transparent mountain wind.Looking from the car window, two plants are particularly prominent: one is the camphor tree, which changes leaves in summer and enters early autumn, and the hemispherical crown is full of white and tender leaves. The first is moso bamboo, Mr. Needham, the author of "History of Science and Technology in Ancient China", once described the bamboo forest in southern China as "the air waves of green explosion".Indeed, the green waves roll by the side of the mountain road, the clear stream ripples, and a smear of Jinyang broken foil.

Passing one bend after another, there are strange peaks and rocks, water turns and mountains move, people move between white clouds and emerald valleys, the clear water is like a belt, and the egret's perch makes half of the mountain scenery drunk.If you want to live by the Nanxi River in your spare time, go fishing by the river, cook fish and shrimp, drink wine and listen to the wind, and watch the moon occasionally, this world will no longer be so beautiful.The mountain moon will be a white bright moon. It is close to the top of the mountain, or rises from the mountain depression, or settles on the Nanxi River, where the frogs sing on the water bank, the birds sleep in the night forest, the gentle breeze blows, the dew falls and the sweetness is cool, and the tent can stay It is not in vain to be a short-term mountain visitor with a little peace of mind.

It was a hot day at this time. Walking on foot, the heat wave with the breath of lush vegetation swept over me. I held a silk folding fan and shook it frequently, but how could I use it to resist the heat wave in the mountains.Walking to the Nanxi River, the coolness of the water rises, but the scorching sun above the head never recedes.The depth of Nanxi River within five steps is transparent, the water flows leisurely, and the pebbles and reefs cannot stop its longing for the footsteps outside the mountain.The most majestic scenery of the Nanxi River is Shiweiyan. It stands alone with a towering peak pointing to the sky. The soft water surrounds the rock, and the deep pool and shallow waves are also turbulent. It presents three levels of beauty.Shiweiyan is 306 meters above sea level, and it is as steep as a pillar of heaven.

Wading through the water, I saw the little stallion of Yandang Mountain on the edge of the forest in the shoal. It is especially good at mountain climbing.I took a picture of it, and followed the essayist Mr. Cheng Shaoguo to the deep pool under Shiweiyan. This pool is 23 meters deep, and it is the deepest pool under Shiweiyan.Mr. Cheng Shaoguo and I went downstream to a pool sheltered by trees and took off our clothes and entered the water. After two steps into the water, we could not reach the bottom with our feet.The water is cool and refreshing.Mr. Cheng Shaoguo said that this pool is deep.The long Nanxi River turns a sharp bend here according to Shiweiyan. At the root of Shiweiyan where the river flows straight, there is a huge cave. The cave is dark and bottomless. Or dinosaurs.

When lying on the water and swimming back, I can see the steep and majestic Shiweiyan under the blue sky, only eagles perch, imagining that squirrels and egrets are not allowed to set foot.The feeling of swimming in the deep pool of Nanxi River must be experienced in person. The surrounding mountains and forests want to dye the water green.After swimming happily, I sat on the pebble beach by the pool and basked in the sun for a while, and then I asked for a ferry.The boat is hidden in the depths of the reef under the stone mast rock. You have to call for a boat, and the shout echoes in the canyon. With one arrow, the wooden boat shoots out from behind the reef. Round and bright.Abandoned the boat and went ashore, crossed a trestle bridge, climbed the stone steps on the steep bank of the river, and circled the stone mast rock for half a circle. I saw the inscription by Lin Jinlan, a writer from Wenzhou, which was not big and did not damage the scenery.Went to the mountain for a drink.

The quietness of the villa is due to the off-season of tourism.After being seated, I began to order. Nanxijiang’s dishes are light and to the extreme. Surprisingly, there are brook shrimp and brook fish, as well as wild bamboo shoots, ferns and wild mustard greens. I ordered iced Yandang beer.Live stream shrimps are also somewhat thin. The male shrimps are transparent, but the feet are light gray in color, the eyes are small crystals and black and bright, and the shrimp claws are long and exaggerated.There are spots on the shell of the female shrimp, and there are seeds in the abdomen. The seeds are small dark green granules, and the color is as smooth as dark green glaze.Don't let the oil stain its original taste for such brook prawns. I chose boiled brook prawns in salt water.The brook prawns are sweet, fresh and not fishy. It feels like the clear stream of Nanxi River. The water is clear and the prawns are also clean. It is the clear stream that wipes away its impurities.The brook fish should be a fast-flow athlete, like a small crocodile, conical, with spots on the body, a large head and a thin tail, and a body of tendon at the end. I braised the brook fish with dried vegetables from the Nanxi River. The taste is also light, fresh and sweet, and the fish is delicate. Soft and refreshing, but also dense, it complements the aroma of dried vegetables.

There are also a few dishes that are worth a book.Nanxi chicken is small and round. It is a chicken that forages for itself in the mountains. It is steamed and eaten.Wild mustard is a sun-dried vegetable, stewed in high soup, fragrant, slightly sweet and slightly astringent, the sweetness lies in its stems, and the astringency lies in its leaves.White croaker, a kind of Ou cuisine, steamed dried cured yellow croaker, is a chewy dish, dry, tough and salty.Stir-fried mud snails, the taste is different from the sweetness and freshness of Ningbo drunk mud snails. The fried mud snails bring out the freshness of mud snails. It is oily and slightly salty, smooth and tender. It is also the first time to eat this way.Zimeiyu is a small yellow croaker from Ouhai Sea, about five inches long. This fish is freshly steamed, white and tender as fat, and the meat is delicate. It needs to be savored carefully. It is indifferent and distant.Master Cheng Jianqing introduced that the production of plum fish is particularly delicate. The yellow croaker that has just been caught is silvery white, and then turns golden yellow, and then silvery white again. It is the authentic plum fish.

Taste the dishes carefully and drink ice-cold Yandang beer in a big glass, what a refreshing word!After eating, advance to Yandang Mountain Scenic Area.Arriving at Yandang Mountain Scenic Spot, the sky was getting late, the setting sun was stuck on the strange peak, and the mountain turned around, but the setting sun jumped out of the strange peak and sank leisurely towards the back of the mountain. The famous scenic spots in Yandang Mountain include Dalongqiu, Xiaolongqiu, Zhongzhe Waterfall and Hezhang Peak.Between Hezhang Peak and Yandang Peak, it is suitable for watching the moon. A round of bright moon rises, and the peak is very close to the moon. Time condenses into a little coolness of the night, and one feels that people are thrown into the infinite wilderness of the years.

Staying at Yandang Villa at night, having a round of drinks in the villa, there is a fried sand calculation that I remember deeply (Mr. Cheng Shaoguo said that the word for calculation should be next to worm, it is an ancient character, and I saw that it is also written as garlic in Wenzhou).Sha is a coeloid in the sea, dark in color, and unknown in shape. It is fried with sour mustard. It has a sour and fresh taste, and it is soft and crisp when eaten.I ate a kind of spicy snail. Spicy snail is a small conical conch. Its meat is tight and has a bitter taste in the first mouth. Chewing it, a hint of spicy is conveyed to the base of the taste, which is very similar to the spicy taste of chili pepper. It is magical. Extremely.Yusheng is said to be a favorite dish of Wenzhou people. It is a raw half-foot-long hairtail and shredded radish marinated in salt, and put red yeast rice. Food and drink.Mudskipper, also known as jumping fish, lives on the mudflats near the sea, crawls on the mudflats, and jumps into the sea quickly by the elasticity of the tail handle when it is frightened, so it gets its name.Mudskippers belong to the fish class Mudskipper family.The eyes are small, protruding above the dorsal edge of the head, the lower eyelids are well developed, each jaw has a row of teeth, the glue fin is relatively short, the rear edge is complete, the body length is about ten centimeters, and it likes to eat diatoms.After the tide ebbs, the head swings from side to side and crawls for food with its pectoral fins.Braised mudskipper with chili, the meat is fat and tender, and easy to taste. When you eat it, you will have the illusion that the fish is also dancing on your tongue.

Ou cuisine is an independent cuisine. When I tasted it at the Mandarin Hotel, I didn’t go into details. Now I know that the names of Ou cuisine are all old sayings, such as white fish, bright preserved (cuttlefish), plum fish, etc. The taste is also felt in Wenzhou, Yongjia Prefecture. It is actually an ancient city of history and culture, and even went to Yandang Mountain to experience the classical charm of Wenzhou dialect. "Qiu" refers to the pool.On the way, Mr. Cheng Shaoguo mentioned it a lot. I heard him say Dalongqiu and Xiaolongqiu. He thought it was a small stream. After walking through the winding, long and short forests, I came to Dalongqiu. I saw a tall and majestic peak. A solitary waterfall hangs above it, and it falls straight down for nine days. It accumulates and forms a pool.The waterfalls in Yandang Mountain are also different, but on the Dalongqiu, a stream of clear water draws the cliff out of a deep groove, flying straight down, and the cliff groove that rushes back becomes wider and wider, forming a moon-shaped big pool when it falls to the ground.Yandang Mountain is developed by Mesozoic volcanic rocks. The geological main body of the peaks and valleys is broken volcanic rocks. After a long period of time, the mountain is carved by waterfalls. It is dry and autumn with little rain. A line of bright waterfalls sways on the cliffs with the wind. The momentum of the past is so graceful, and a curtain of jade beads is swaying and fluttering.There are many boys and girls in the pool with bamboo rafts and parasols, deliberately crossing the scenic line of Dalongqiu. I followed Mr. Cheng Shaoguo to the Dalongqiu Tea Pavilion, each held a cup of Yandang Yunwu, listened to the sound of Dalongqiu water and tasted the fragrance of Yandang Yunwu.Xie Lingyun, the originator of Chinese landscape poetry (385-433 in the Southern and Northern Dynasties), was the prefect of Yongjia. Interesting "upright officials".Yandang Yunwu is also worth a try. This tea is emerald green in color, light yellow in soup and bright in color.Sitting by the edge of Dalongqiu, drinking leisurely, looking at the cliff carvings on the cliff, and laughing at the county magistrate of the Republic of China, who dared to come here to add embarrassment.Dalongqiu, with such a big pool, what can't be hidden or found in time?Mr. Cheng Shaoguo loves beautiful writing, so he naturally talked about Wang Zengqi, Lin Jinlan and Zhou Zuoren.Mr. Cheng Shaoguo is writing "The Biography of Lin Jinlan". Mr. Lin Jinlan is well-known in the Chinese literary world for his delicate and elegant writing, and he was originally from Wenzhou.Mr. Cheng Shaoguo, a junior from his hometown, published a new collection of essays "Shuangxi".Speaking of Zhou Zuoren, Mr. Cheng Shaoguo suddenly said loudly: Zhou Zuoren should be regarded as two people, one is the secular and tainted Zhou Zuoren, and the other is the elegant and beautiful Zhou Zuoren!In this situation, I have a lot of regrets in my heart, and I can't turn it around. Facing the giant peaks and clear streams, how can I explain the many causes and conditions in the world in a few words. The more you drink the tea, the weaker it becomes, and the more you talk, the stronger it becomes. This is the first time I met Mr. Cheng Shaoguo, and we have always had a close relationship before.Yandang Mountain, Lin Jinlan, Xie Lingyun, Xu Xiake... Leaving Dalongqiu, turn to Xiaolongqiu and Zhongzhe Waterfall, and then make a special trip to Yongjia Food Street to feast on seafood delicacies. When the cold beer is poured, it is like Dalongqiu.This meal was eaten in a hurry, because I still had to climb the Hezhang Peak.Hezhang Peak is like palms together, the peaks are separated and connected, and there is a stone-level path in the middle, which reaches the waist of the peak, where there is a temple.On the way, I came across a small stall selling souvenirs. A Wenzhou writer was signing and selling books. Most of them were landscape photos of Yandang Mountain.Because Mr. Cheng Shaoguo was waiting at the foot of the mountain, he made a few distant views on the way up, and felt the experience of looking at the sky through the cracks in the rocks several times, so he hurried down. I didn’t go back to the city in the evening, so I went to Nanbaixiang by the Cihu Lake in the outskirts. There is an elegant place to eat called “Nongjia Xiaoyuan”, which are all classical Ou cuisine.Eating horseshoe bamboo shoots in clear water is another chapter for me, so I won't waste any more words here. "Bitter mango tofu" has been known for a long time and tasted just now.Kumana tofu is a cultural relic food. Kumana tofu is a conical chestnut knotted from a Chinese tree. The shell is the same as that of a chestnut. It is bitter and fragrant when fried. Tofu", it looks like dark and thin Liangpi.Stir-fried chili with bitter mango tofu tastes tough and has a faint bitter mango fragrance, a real forest product. Next, I ate Cangnan fish cake, three-layer meat, dried Pingyang powder, crispy sweet potato balls, stir-fried shredded radish, preserved eggplant, green cotton cake, distilled yellow croaker, braised duck tongue, stewed pork ribs with red yam, and drunk mud snails etc.The wine you drink is divided into Shengtou and Laojiu Hanjiu. Shengtou is a kind of rice wine, which roughly means raw liquor. It is called an old wine man. It has two layers of taste when imported, first it is mellow and astringent, and then it is mellow.Beside Cihu, there is a moon, and the lake breeze is leisurely. While drinking, talk about ghosts and gods. Ghosts are really things that go with wine.This time, Qu Wei, a wine fairy poet, drank together. Qu Wei looked very much like the Russian poet Pushkin. He wrote a poetic travel work. "Wenzhou Evening News" supplement editor. The management style of the small farmyard is unique. It does not have a professional chef. It only hires gourmets who can cook traditional Ou cuisine from Yandang Mountain to cook. The authentic Ou cuisine and elegant restaurants are also memorable places.