Home Categories Essays Sit in a small town on the bank of the Yellow River and drink

Chapter 31 Miscellaneous clear and meta-mind

One of the earliest breakfasts in Taiyuan is called Brain.It originated in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, and its history dates back a long, long time ago; in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, when people ate brains, they had to go to the streets to eat with lanterns, which is better than eating when the eastern sun shines on the city today. It was early in the pre-dawn hours.So, it's the earliest early, there's nothing wrong with that.In Taiyuan, it is eaten with Shaomei, which is also called Shaomai in some other places.It is said that there is only one place in Beijing that sells siu mai, and it is the shop opened by people from Yangqu, Shanxi.

When I first arrived in Taiyuan, I was a little surprised to see the bright red characters on the signboard outside the restaurant saying "8 yuan a bowl of brains": eat brains?This is very fresh. I ran out to eat brains early the next morning when I went to Taiyuan.I live in Shanxi Statistics Building, opposite to Nanhua Gate, which is the former residence of Zhao Shuli and Yan Xishan. Yan Xishan's former residence has been occupied by Shanxi Provincial Writers Association.Coming out of the Statistics Building, turn right, and there are several restaurants vaguely separated. I went to a well-decorated restaurant, and ordered a brain, a cage of Shaomei, which was recommended by the waiter.

After a while, my mind came up. There was a huge white clay bowl filled with flour paste. When I blew it, there were microwaves.I scooped up a spoonful of this thing and put it in the south. I guess it will be called some soup, so I drank it.Some are sour, some are sweet, and have a slight medicinal taste.Reaching down the spoon to fish out, there are mutton, lotus root slices and yam in it.I asked if it was a potato yam or a yam yam, and the answer was, it was a yam yam, a long yam.Shanxi people also call potatoes yams.Eat a piece, it is crisp and tender yam.Drink brains, eat mutton, eat lotus root slices, eat yam, and occasionally dip a little plum in Ninghua Prefecture's Yiyuan Qing old vinegar to eat.

The brain is a foodie, Zhang Shishan said that it was made of tofu at first, but Mr. Fu Shan changed it later.Zhang Shishan has a lot of research on Shanxi food. He has been jealous all his life, and his teeth are jealous. When I was in Beijing, I advised him to get his teeth cleaned. His daughter, who is a Ph.D. student at Peking University, said that this is his glory and cannot be washed. , he smiled with jealous teeth.As for Mr. Fu Shan, I later learned that he is a household name in Taiyuan. He is a doctor or a famous doctor.However, it is this mind that made Mr. Fu Shan famous.Like Su Dongpo, I don't know how many people have not read his poems, but there are probably quite a few people who have read "Dongpo meat or Dongpo elbow".It is said that Mr. Fu Shan reformed his mind in order to nourish his sick mother’s body. There are mutton, sheep marrow, distiller’s grains (now used rice wine), stewed noodles (fried flour), lotus root, long yam, astragalus, and ginger There are eight kinds in total, called Bazhen Soup. When people in Taiyuan eat it, they also serve it with pickled leeks.The brain can warm the stomach and invigorate the spleen, dispel dampness and cold, and it is a kind of breakfast of health care nature. In "Water Margin", there is "catch the bowl mind", so it must not be like this.When the Ming Dynasty collapsed and the Qing Dynasty ruled the world, Mr. Fu Shan, who firmly supported the Ming Dynasty, dedicated the secret recipe of his mind to a restaurant called Qinghe Yuanyang Haggagao, which was opened by the Duo family of the Yangqu Hui family. On Nancang Street, Nancheng District, Taiyuan.Mr. Fu Shan probably took a fancy to the restaurant's signboard of Qingheyuan, and at the same time he gave his mind to the Qingheyuan Haggis Cutting Museum, Mr. Fu Shan wrote another plaque, first writing "Qingheyuan" in three big characters, and then writing "" The four small characters "Miscellaneous Cutting of the Brain" are said to be rearranged to read the meaning of "Miscellaneous Cutting and Yuan Brain", because Mr. Fu Shan neither likes the Yuan Dynasty nor the Qing Dynasty, and he is a pure Han chauvinist.The special confession to eat with lanterns in the morning also has the meaning of "the sky is not clear", and it is full of memories of the Ming Dynasty in my heart.

After eating the brain, the body is really hot, thinking that if it is extended to the damp and cold places in the south of the Yangtze River, it will be a good nourishment.However, it is true that there is no good mutton in the south of the Yangtze River, and I am afraid of mutton. In the Sanjin land, there are good sheep from Youyu County, but in Taiyuan, it is probably difficult to eat Youyu sheep. Youyu is actually very good. It's easy to go, but there is no chance this winter. In the summer of next year, I will go to Guancen Mountain in Ningwu. At that time, I might as well go to the Datong Basin, but it will be a matter of course.Eating brains today can also be described as eating mutton soup. I am also a sheep who has seen the suffering of gnawing grass roots on Luliang Mountain and Qingxu Plain.

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