Chapter 12 Yan Chen Occasionally Picked Up

In the early years of the Republic of China, it was not fashionable to eat barbecue in the Beijing-Tianjin area, because at that time, it was all about mixing the ingredients and grilling it by yourself, and it was delicious to eat as you roasted.Now when eating barbecue in Taipei, even the cooking and cooking are done by the waiter. The seasoning is thick or light, and the meat is tender and tender. stand up.When the meat is grilled and served, it is only slightly hot. Do you think it will be delicious? So if you plan to eat barbecue, you have to do it yourself.To be honest, the posture of eating barbecue is really uncivilized.Those who wear long gowns must take off their long gowns and roll up their cuffs; those who wear suits must take off their blouses and loosen their ties, otherwise, if the tie catches fire, no one will pay for it.Although you don't have to step on the bench when you are grilling meat, there is no such thing as sitting next to the iron strips to eat barbecue in a gentle manner, unless you don't want to have two respectful eyebrows.Since the eating style of barbecue is not very elegant, and it was relatively conservative in those days, the general scholar-official class is not willing to try it.

At that time, the most crowning place to eat barbecue was the Zhengyang Building outside the front door.In addition, they are pushing the carts to sell barbecue in the alleys. Earlier, the two "Barbecue Wan" brothers got together by pushing the carts down the street. Around the 20th year of the Republic of China, folk customs gradually opened up, and eating barbecue became popular all of a sudden, becoming the most fashionable food and drink.There are three stores in Beijing that specialize in selling barbecue meat: "Barbecue Chen" on Luomashi Street outside Xuanwumen; "Barbecue Wan" ("Wan" reads like "man"); The "Barbecue Season" at the Shichahai Yiliu River at the back door.The three of them have their own strengths and each have their own customers.

Barbecue Chen has a spacious location and considerate greetings.The roast meat Wanzhizi is the oldest, and the meat is cut and selected very carefully.The corner of the barbecue season building is bright and bright. It overlooks Houhai after the snow, and the scenery is beautiful. Facing the snow scene, you can really eat more meat and drink more wine.However, the second child of the roasted meat Wan Wan brothers has a unique skill. He can cut meat and settle accounts at the same time.At that time, Peiping still used copper coins, and the calculations were fast and accurate. No matter how many guests were waiting to settle accounts, he never missed the calculation.Later, I don’t know which man made a big publicity for him. He said that he had a branch, which was an antique in the Taichang period of the Ming Dynasty. It has been more than three hundred years old. The sticks are not sticky, so the meat is especially delicious when grilled.Affected by Ding's curiosity, everyone flocked to Roast Meat Wan to eat. As time passed, Roast Meat Wan became a standout, not only surpassing Chen Ji's family, but also becoming known to everyone.Even when foreigners come to Beiping for sightseeing, if they catch up with the twelfth lunar month of winter, barbecue is also listed as a must-eat item.

As far as the seats in Barbecue Wan are concerned, they are facing the west entrance of An'er Hutong. There are two broken tile-roofed houses with two door faces. When you enter the door, there are two iron supports placed diagonally in the south room. They are so-called antiques from the Ming Dynasty. Tiezhizi, one is called the east side, and the other is called the west side. In the past, barbecue was only sold in autumn and winter. As soon as the autumn was over and the branches were lit, people rushed to the barbecue to try the new one first.As soon as you enter the door, Boss Wan will first ask you whether it is east or west. If you say east, he will record east for you, and immediately call out the east number, and you will register the east number.No matter how crowded or chaotic, there will never be any situation such as changing numbers.But after the number is numbered, there are broken chairs and stools in the room, and you have to wait in the smoky hut.If you have something to go out for, or go to the door to get some air, Boss Wan immediately shouts "cancellation", and you go in again, the number will be rearranged, there is no accommodating.

During the Anti-Puppet Period, Wang Kemin won the crown after wearing a monkey and became the chairman of the "Jicha Political Affairs Committee". Although he was a lackey of the Japanese, he still treated the common people with a domineering and domineering attitude.One day after the snow came to Xinji, Wang's favorite pet, Afeng, had a sudden whim, and thought of having a barbecue, to taste what it was like.Little Afeng could bear that kind of place, but Blind Wang has always been obedient to Xiao Afeng, so he couldn't disobey him, so he took his entourage and bodyguards and drove straight to An'er Hutong to eat barbecue.Boss Wan saw this kind of momentum and knew that it was a big shot, so he hurried over to say hello.Of course Wang ate food from the east, so he registered No. 7 on the east side. The room was narrow and densely packed with smoke and fire. Naturally, they couldn't stand it, and they all quit the cold kiln with poor tiles. Those who smoke smoke evacuate, and some hide in chartered cars to escape the cold and chat.After about half an hour, I went into the house again to see if it was their turn.But Wan Boss didn't care about the three seven twenty one, according to the old rules, the numbers of their group were arranged in order of twenty and thirty.This action offended little Afeng, and she became very coquettish. Blind Wang saw that the beloved concubine was furious, and then became furious.Just as he was about to swarm Boss Wan to fix him up, unexpectedly a big man came out of the crowd. His surname was Wu and his name was Ju Chi. He used to be a reporter who occasionally appeared on the stage and wrote drama reviews, but since the fall of North China , well-known reporters either went south with the army, or hid and did not show their faces.There is no cinnabar in this place, and red soil is the most precious. Wu is a fan of Chang Wusheng, and he has no color. He was recruited by the Xinmin Association and joined first.

This person has no heart and a simple mind, but he has become a celebrity among cultural traitors.As soon as he walked over, he spoke to Wang Kemin, who was losing his temper, with a half-smile.He said that the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere is the most particular about the new order, and that everything must be served on a first-come, first-served basis. The few of us came to eat barbecue with Sasaki Sasaki of the Japanese Gendarmerie, and we have to wait next to the smoking order. If you want to eat, please You go to the back row.Blind Wang saw that the situation was not good, and there were many customers in the queue, and he glared at him again. He knew that public anger was hard to come by, so he quickly turned the rudder, retreated, and led a thousand people under him, and went away in embarrassment with Xiao Ah Feng. Don't eat it.The next day, the major newspapers and tabloids in North China vaguely published this anecdote.At that time, there was a reporter named Zhang Zuigai, who was very sharp in his writing. He often wrote bitter and witty articles for various tabloids.Thirty years later, when I think about it now, I still feel happy, pitiful and ridiculous.