Chapter 8 2 Talking about the unique food in Beiping

Cooked food in Peking has always been divided into red cabinets and white cabinets.Because the cabinets selling sheep's head meat and donkey meat are not painted, everyone calls them white cabinets to distinguish them from those selling smoked fish.Donkey meat is also sold on the streets at night in winter. It is an excellent drink to drink, especially donkey meat with burning knives is the most delicious.Donkey meat sellers sell donkey kidneys secretly, but you stop the donkey meat seller and tell him how much donkey kidneys you cut for me from the shopkeeper, and you will be sure that he will answer you.If you tell him how much money to cut, he will immediately take it out from the bottom of the cabinet and cut it for you.There is a rule for cutting this kind of meat, it must be cut obliquely, so it is also called oblique cut.There is a quip in Peking that goes, "Shooting wine, money, meat, the more you eat, the less you have enough."It can be seen that Qian'er Rou also has a large number of customers.

Fried liver, the "True Beiping" in Taipei, and the "Nanbeihe" in the past can make it, but it feels wrong after eating it.The most famous fried liver in Peking is "Huixianju" in Xiaoqiao, Xianyukou.Every morning, Hui Xianju's fried liver will be ready for a pot to hit the market. Please come early tomorrow when the pot is sold out.The so-called fried liver is actually a double stew of pig small intestine, pig liver and minced garlic.What you told Sheng Chao Ganer to "fat up" means to have more intestines, and "to be thinner" means to have more slices of liver.Authentic Peking people don't use chopsticks or spoons to drink fried liver.You see who uses chopsticks and spoons, yes, they must be from other places.

Sesame paste noodle tea is also served with sesame seed in the morning. The raw material is grains such as sorghum rice. It is boiled into a paste, which is neither sweet nor sweet. Serve it in a bowl. Use two bamboo chopsticks to dip the special diluted sesame paste in the copper pot. Wake up, use a special quick way to spread the sesame paste all over the noodle tea, and finally sprinkle a layer of pepper and salt, and drink it with sesame cakes in winter. Because the sesame paste is covered on the floating surface to keep warm, it is still hot and delicious when you drink it to the bottom of the bowl. fragrant.Also, those who sell noodle tea with sesame sauce all use copper pots, which are slightly tilted and sprinkled outside.If you ask him why he uses copper pot holders to slant them, he always says that this is taught by the ancestors. As for who their ancestors are, they are also "Mo Zaiyang".

Water burst belly.In Beiping, there is no real restaurant that sells water-boiled sheep tripe, let alone water-boiled beef.Those who sell fried belly in Beiping are called Baodu stalls, and they are all taught by Tianfang. On the vertical side of the stall, one side is polished and polished, with palindrome engraved on it, and there is a bronze plaque with four Chinese characters "halal Huihui".Not only are the tables, chairs and benches spread out clean and dust-free, even the small bowls for the seasonings are clean and pleasant to look at.The seasonings are all eaten and seasoned now, and the lamb tripe is freshly cut and bursting with water. The craftsmanship is good or bad, just boil it here: after a long time, it will be too old to chew;Therefore, the water-boiled belly is completely eaten with heat, and it must be tender and tender, just right.The most famous one is the "Burst Belly King" in the open space in front of Runming Building in Dong'an Market, Beiping.

Small citizens in Peking want to have a drink or two, and they pay attention to going to the "big wine tank" to drink. The so-called big wine tank is also a small tavern.In three or nine days, if you go to the big wine tank and lift the thick and heavy cotton door curtain, there will be a smell of old wine, which will arouse your alcohol addiction.Drinking in a big wine tank is beneficial. Although he only prepares a dozen or so meat and vegetable side dishes every day, he can order something for you if you want to eat. At least, there is a cabinet selling fried lamb and smoked fish outside the door. , Wonton picks, that is indispensable.After you have finished drinking, eight out of ten people will order a bowl of wontons to drink. Anywhere is called to eat wontons, but only the big wine tank in Beiping says to drink a bowl of wontons.The wontons at the entrance of the big wine tank, the soup is made from pork bones, the skin is specially rolled, and a wonton is only smeared with a little meat filling, but in addition to soy sauce and vinegar, seaweed, winter vegetables, dried shrimp skins, and pepper noodles are the same Everything.If you like spicy food, add a few drops of red chili oil, and drink a bowl of Xilihulu.There is a local dialect in Peiping called "Liu Liu Xie Er". When you return home from the big wine tank, you probably don't need to make up for dinner at home.

Every year on Lixia, the lotus market in Beiping Shichahai starts to open.All walks of life who attend the temple fair also come to the fair one after another. Except for the water pavilions and mat sheds built in the lotus pond by the sea, each with its own fixed site, selling tea and ice bowls and cold fruits, there is only one Feng Ji "Su Zao Meat". Only do business in the Shichahai lotus market for one season.Although there is a small screen with "Feng Ji" written on the meat-making stall, everyone who knows him calls him "Lao Ga".It is said that in the last years of Guangxu, Lao Ga worked as a sura with the head of the imperial dining room, and learned how to make su made meat.There is a book called "Jade Food Essence" in the Imperial Dining Room. There are tens of thousands of recipes for various meals.This book is a common saying, that is, the royal recipes, all the emperors of the past dynasties added from the right, so it is magnificent, and there are more than 20 books.It's a pity that Xuantong was out of the palace, and this book has also disappeared. If it can be preserved until now, it will be more valuable than any new recipes on the market.

Lao Ga's Su-made meat, according to his own groaning, said that Emperor Qianlong learned the method from famous chefs in Gusu after he went to Suzhou, and asked the imperial dining room to imitate it.But his old man doesn't like the food too sweet, so the amount of rock sugar is reduced.The most important thing to make Su Zao meat is to choose the meat, and you must choose the tender meat with three layers of streaky meat that is a bit thinner than the hind legs.The pig hair can only be pulled out with tweezers, and cannot be scraped. Once the hair is shaved, the root is broken in the skin, and there is no way to tweezer.After cleaning the meat, fry it slightly to release the oil, then add the seasoning, and simmer for about an hour, and the meat will be crispy and delicious.

Lao Ga's Su-made meat is limited to fifteen catties a day, and he is too busy to cook more.As soon as the lotus market opens, he will set up a stall under the willow tree in Shichahai Bingxin, no matter the weather, there are people who go to Shichahai to eat Su-made meat under the umbrella in the rain.When the autumn cicada swallows the dew, it gradually becomes tender and cool, and as soon as the lotus market is over, if you want to eat Lao Ga's Su-made meat, you will have to wait until next year's lotus season. In the 13th and 14th years of the Republic of China, Beiping suddenly became fashionable for a while selling Tianjin steamed stuffed buns and potted meat.From time to time, you can hear shouting and selling in the streets and alleys.But it's also strange that they always sell the two together, there is no one that only sells Tianjin steamed stuffed buns, and no one that specializes in jar meat.The front of a burden is the jar of meat, and the back is the buns.As for the Tianjin steamed buns he sells, it’s really not flattering. The steamed stuffed buns are flat and the stuffing is not very good.The meat is cut into squares, oily and smooth, and when eaten in the mouth, it is plump and not greasy, and it has a slightly bad smell.In the past, Jing Guxue, a famous drama critic in Peking, liked to invite people to drink two cups at "Erheju" opposite the Zhenguang Cinema. The tofu is stewed, the wine is Dongsanhe Shandong Yellow, and two braised vegetables are used. It is economical and affordable to eat and drink this pot of meat with tofu and homemade cakes.Zhang Zhongfu, a famous professor at Tsinghua University, named him Jingjiacai, and even the seller of jar meat at the door of Erheju is also famous.But it is very strange that once the Northern Expedition was successful, the sound of selling Tianjin steamed stuffed buns and jar meat was no longer heard inside or outside Beiping.As for the reason, none of the old Beijingers can figure out what happened.

There are many types of deep-fried dough sticks eaten with sesame seed cakes in Beiping, unlike the deep-fried fried dough sticks in Taiwan today, which are straight and half long.Beiping deep-fried dough sticks are divided into long rings (crispy twists), round rings, sugar cakes, sweet sweets, thin crisps, and pan grates.But at the entrance of Dajiangfang Hutong in Washi, Xisigang, there is a pancake seller. He is ingenious and fried eggs in pancakes.Every morning, people line up to buy egg-filled pancakes. In fact, this craft is not difficult to learn, but egg-filled pancakes are always an exclusive sale.If it is in Taiwan, egg-filled pancakes make money, no matter whether he is doing well or not, you can do it and I can do it too. Only when everyone fails to do it together can we stop.

Probably there are as many stinky husbands in the world, and there are not a few who love to eat stinky things.Regardless of Europeans and Americans, there are many people in various provinces in China who love to eat rotten food. Cantonese and Ningbo people like to eat stinky salted fish, Shanghainese like fried stinky fish, Wuhu people like to eat salty and stinky dried fish, and people in Peiping like to eat stinky fish. Stinky tofu.Speaking of stinky tofu, there are also glass jars for sale here, but compared with the stinky tofu in Peking, the taste is completely different. There are about 20 or 30 kinds of food sold in Peking carrying round cages down the street, but the round cages are the smallest ones selling stinky tofu.If you go to a round cage shop to buy a small round cage, someone in the shop will definitely ask you if it is the kind of round cage that sells stinky tofu. It can be seen that the round cage that sells stinky tofu is the smallest size.Although selling stinky tofu is a small business, there used to be fierce competition in Beiping, just like Wang Mazi who sells knives and scissors. It is clear; after the local gentry tasted it, everyone believed that there was a stinky tofu product called Wang Zhihe in the iron gate of Xicao Factory outside Xuanwumen. .At that time, there was no such organization as a trade union, and with the consent of all parties, it was led by Wang Zhihe, and Wang Zhihe resolved problems when problems occurred.He also asked General Zhi Boyu, who was born in Hanlin, to write a plaque of "stinky rot is magical" and hang it in the store to keep the certificate, so the dispute over selling stinky tofu was settled.

According to Li Yongfu, the former principal of the Peking Opera School, one day he accompanied Li Shilao in Gaoyang through the iron gate, and saw Wang Zhihe's "stinky and magical" plaque was the calligraphy of his father, General Zhizhi, so he went in and bought a small jar to taste it. From then on, Li Yongfu became Li Shilao's special envoy to buy stinky tofu, and he always bought three or two times a month.Shi Lao has been a vegetarian for many years, but he does not avoid onions and garlic.He said that he was thirsty in summer and his appetite was low. If he had a bowl of noodles mixed with sesame sauce, instead of Sanhe oil, he would use Wangzhihe tofu marinated and eat it with garlic cloves. In his opinion, it would be considered a supreme treasure.If you have the opportunity to return to Peiping in the future, you must inquire whether Wang Zhihe is safe. If he is still alive, you must have a hearty meal of stinky tofu and sesame sauce noodles.The words are still ringing in my ears, but the wood of Shi Lao's tomb has been arched, which makes people feel infinite sorrow. In the past, if people from Peiping had guests at home temporarily, they wanted to keep them for dinner, and they were caught off guard. There was a way. They went to the pork shop outside the alley and ordered a box, and baked a few pancakes at the noodle shop, and the problem was solved.Before the Anti-Japanese War, the cheapest boxed dish was only 80 cents, and the most expensive boxed dish was only two yuan. Anyway, the higher the price, the better and thinner the cut, and the more styles there are.A box has at least seven styles and a maximum of fifteen styles. The more styles, the bigger the box, and the fewer styles, the smaller the box.Because the box is too big to handle, the little Liba (that is, the apprentice) in the shop is always sent home.In the past, there was a joke play between Hua Dan and the clown called "Send the Box" in Peking Opera. It was very funny and made people laugh. Unfortunately, there were a few puns in it and it was listed as a forbidden play.There are quite a few well-known dramatists in Taiwan. When the author mentions this, I probably think of this play.