Chapter 7 Unique food in Peking

When it comes to salty snacks and snacks, there are more types than sweet ones. Let’s talk about a few that you can’t see or eat in Taiwan. Enema, Beiping’s enema is a kind of stuff like pig sausage powder, the color of the powder, cut into thin slices, put it on a flat bottomed pan, half baked and half fried, dipped in garlic and salt water, and eaten with a bamboo stick.Although this kind of snack is also sold on the street, most of them are sold at temple fairs.A pick, with bits and pieces of condiments on one end, and a flat-bottomed charcoal fire pan on the other end, he will cut as much as you want to explode.It is said that the oil he uses is mixed with horse oil, so the enema that pops out is charred on the outside and tender on the inside, which is very delicious.Some people go to temple fairs and don't buy anything just to watch the excitement, but to come here for enema.If you want to be addicted to eating, and smell the smell of enema, you have to rush over to pop a plate to satisfy your hunger.

Douzhi can be said to be a special product of Beiping. Except for Beiping, I have not heard of any province or county that sells douzhi.Those who like to drink say that after drinking soy milk, it is sour and sweet, and its taste is mellow and intoxicating. The more you drink, the more you want to drink it.Those who don't like it say it tastes sour and smelly, but if you are addicted to it and see a bean juice stand, you will rush to drink two bowls of it no matter what.Some bean juice sellers in Beiping carried burdens to the streets, and some set up stalls at temple fairs. Only Kui Er’s bean juice stall next to the Yunlifei Beijing Opera by Tianqiao was open as usual 360 days a year.

His surname is Kui, of course he is in the banner, and Yun Lifei often beats Kui Er to haha. He said that Kui Er's stall has three unique features: first, all customers, as long as you sit by the side of the stall, you are considered to be the emperor's guest.Because the area around the Tianqiao is full of land, when there is a wind, the dust will be blown up. The bowl of bean juice is like a handful of ashes, and pepper noodles are added to the spicy pickles. How do you drink it?Therefore, before setting up a stall every day, Kui Er fills up the surrounding area with fine loess, and then sprinkles water with a watering can at any time. You sit down and drink bean juice, and the loess is used to pour clean water on the street. You are not a temporary emperor. ?Second, no one can compare to Kui Er's spicy pickles.Everyone says that Xiding and pickles are finely chopped, and Kui Er's shredded pickles are thinner and longer than others.Thirdly, Kui Er's soy milk is sour and not astringent.Although Yun Lifei was promoting it to his friends, what he said was true.

Fei Qihe, the former principal of the Peking School of Finance and Business, would take his children and daughters to drink bean juice at the Kuier stall in Tianqiao every holiday.Later, he became the head of the "Ministry of Finance" Taxation Department. Once chatting with the author, he said that he didn't think about anything now, and sometimes he suddenly thought of Kui Er's soybean juice, and immediately made enemies in his cheeks. Drinking two bowls is enough.You will know how magical Kui Er's soybean juice is. In addition to soybean juice, Taiwan now has a kind of green sauce meat, which has never been seen on the market.At that time, Luo Jialing, the wife of Hartung, a wealthy Jewish businessman in Shanghai, loved to eat hot biscuits with horseshoe and meat in green sauce.It is said that there are few good hams such as Jinhua ham, Kunming Yun ham, Xuefang Jiang ham in Harton's family?But Mrs. Hartung just likes to eat Beiping's green sauce pork, and it has to be from Baohuazhai in Dongcheng, Beiping.It is said that one year Mrs. Hartong bought five or six hundred catties of green sauce meat at Baohuazhai at one go, and shipped them back to Shanghai by ship. As a result, there was no green sauce meat in Baohuazhai for more than a year.

What is so good about green sauce meat?It is said that the meat in green sauce needs to be marinated for a year and a half before it is ready to be released from the vat. There is no smell of oil. The ham must be steamed before eating.Mr. Chen Sanyuan said before his death that the ham is too rich, but the meat with green sauce is clean and moist, and it is suitable for rice and porridge.It is enough to prove that green sauce meat is the best in snacks. The snack of mutton head meat can also be said to be a specialty of Peking.The sale of mutton head meat is based on the season. If you don’t pay Lidong, you just want to eat mutton head meat, and there is no sale in Beiping.Most of the mutton is sold in bamboo baskets, and it is not common to carry a load and set up a stall.At nine days, at eight or nine o'clock in the evening, the roads are quiet and the people are sparse, and the northwest wind blows, like a small knife cutting your face. In the depths of the alley, you can hear the cry of selling sheep's head meat.

Those who sell mutton head meat all carry an oil lamp with a bright lampshade, which is probably a sign of selling mutton head meat.Although the main ones selling mutton head meat are the front face of the sheep, as well as the tendons and tendons of the sheep. It happens that there are sheep mouth strips, sheep ears and even sheep eyes.The meat-cutting knife is wide and big, with dazzling crystal light and extremely sharp. The knife moves like flying, and the sliced ​​meat is as thin as paper.Then knock out the powdered pepper and salt contained in the horns of the big ox from the small holes in the horns and sprinkle it on the meat.Sometimes it's too cold, and there are still ice balls hanging on the meat, eating it with salt and pepper, it really has a cold and refreshing fragrance.Sheep’s eyes are made from the runny heart in the middle, sheep’s ears are made from crispy bones, and mutton’s tendons are eaten from its strength. If you drink a few taels of roasted knives, it will be warm from head to toe, just like wearing a sheepskin jacket. .

Lamb head meat is sold in winter, but roast lamb is just the opposite, and it is not available until summer.Both mutton head meat and roast mutton are Muslim business. The only advantage is that things are really clean. When it comes to roasted mutton, everyone in Peking knows that Baikui's roasted mutton on Longfusi Street in Dongsi is the most famous.According to Bai Kui's roast mutton, it's really good.The reason why he is particularly famous is that Baikui has a stove across the door. You can borrow a bowl from the cabinet, go to Baikui to buy a lamb tendon, or come to a pair of sheep's trotters, and ask him for more roasted mutton soup. He cooks a bowl of noodles (the name of the noodles) with roasted mutton soup, which is really more delicious than any soy pot noodles.

In addition, at the west entrance of Fenzi Hutong in Xicheng, there is a mutton bed called Hongqiaowang. His roast mutton is also very famous in the western half of the city.Every afternoon, as soon as the roasted mutton comes out of the pot, it is put on a large, shiny copper plate, and the meat and soup are all eaten up in one go.I also heard that there is an old prickly ash tree in his family that is more than a hundred years old. Whenever you buy roast mutton with a bowl, you just need to say: "The shopkeeper brings more soup." A pinch of green fresh peppers is sprinkled on the cooked noodles. It tastes beautiful and fragrant, with a slight hint of spicyness. It is really a delicious product in summer.No matter where you go after leaving Beiping, you will not be able to eat such delicious food.

Sauce elbow, "Tongqinglou" and "Taoranting" in Taipei, "Duyiyi" and "Qingyunju" in Kaohsiung are all available for sale, and they all look alike, but when you eat them, you can't eat them. Something is not quite right.The most famous Beiping sauce elbow is Tianfu in Xidan Pailou.The so-called sauce elbow shops in Beiping all sell raw pork and ready-made chickens and ducks, so they are also called pork bars.There are smoked brine workshops in the back cabinet of the sauce elbow shop.Baotianfu, there is an old stewed pot in the backyard that is always new. Every day when it’s time to prepare the ingredients, the old shopkeeper has to do it himself.When he was able to intervene next to the smoker and do a favor, the apprentice would soon be out.Everyone likes to buy elbow flowers when buying sauced elbows, which is the essence of the meat. But when buying sauced elbows in Tianfu, people who know how to eat tend to prefer fatty ones. When the sauced elbows are cut, immediately run to Baoyuanzhai to cut noodles At the shop, put two freshly baked forks on the fire, clamp the sauce elbow while it is hot, and bite down, the hot oil splashes, and accidentally burns your tongue with oil on your clothes.There is a famous flower and bird painter in Beiping, Chen Banding, who lived in Shanghai when he was a child. He loves the sauce meat recommended by Shanghai Lu Gong. Ever since he ate Tianfu’s sauced elbow, he realized that the Peking sauce elbow is thick but not greasy. It is indeed more greasy than sweet and greasy. The sauce meat is too clever.

Tianfu also has a kind of toad leg, which is to put a chicken leg bone in the middle of the lean meat core, and put it in the pot together with the sauced elbow. It is completely thin, without any fat. Order by name, otherwise the store will not sell it.Tianfu also has a smoked curd that is best served with wine called smoked wild goose wings.It is the big ribs that are seasoned and smoked with red yeast rice so that they can be torn by hand and eaten with wine. It is really a wonderful product.The smoked goose wings that can't be eaten are torn into shreds, and some dried whitebait and mung bean mouth are added to stir-fry them as porridge.

Braised fried tofu, this is the most popular snack, the ingredients are cheap and easy to make.Now Taiwan sells stinky dried tofu everywhere, but I haven't heard of a stewed fried tofu.Beiping sells marinated fried tofu, and they only come out after dinner, and they sell it along the street.Friends who play night cards, or those who go to sleep early in the summer night, come to a bowl of fried tofu, which can not only relieve troubles and diarrhea, but also prevent hunger.It's called stewed, but it's actually a bowl of fried tofu cubes in salt water with peppercorns, plus a few grains of soy flour and fine vermicelli.In Taiwan, no one sells marinated fried tofu, maybe no one knows how to fry bean flour and vegetarian balls. There are many places in China that make tofu nao, sweet or salty, meat or vegetarian, but the so-called meat is just dried dried shrimps with pickled mustard, and even Sichuan bean curd is just added with simmered seeds.There is a kind of tofu nao in Beiping, which sells tofu nao with stewed meat slices. Most of the time every morning, I find a stall selling sesame seed cakes and fried dough sticks, and sell them together.The so-called stewed meat slices, it is really the best fat and lean meat, first boiled and cut into thin slices, then thickened with broth and golden needle fungus egg flower.Serve the tofu nao first, and then serve it with a spoonful of stewed rice. It’s really not bad to eat with sesame seed cakes.Some people say that it is not easy to make some sliced ​​pork stew. You need to know that people’s craftsmanship lies in thickening it: thicken it too thickly, and your tongue will stick to your mouth; The soup is gone.So this pick can only be sold on the side of the road. I have never heard of tofu nao with stewed meat slices hanging around the street in a pot, which is the reason. Hot noodle dumplings are sold in almost all provinces from south to north, east and west, but in some places they are called steamed dumplings, small steamed dumplings, and sausage-enema dumplings, with different names.The hot noodles dumplings mentioned by the author are neither sold by dim sum shops nor restaurants, but are sold on four-wheeled carts along the street.I think back in the days when the carts were sold down the street to sell hot noodle dumplings, they all carried dice and treasure boxes, and they used the hot noodle dumplings to open treasures and roll the dice to bet on winning or losing. Later, because the police caught them tightly, they did business in a proper manner. There is an old Peng who sells hot noodle dumplings in Beiping. Anyone who has lived in Northeast City knows Lao Peng.He used to be a peddler along the street, but later the Finance and Business Specialized School moved to Ma Daren Alley to set up a school. There was an empty space outside the school gate. Lao Peng saw this place, and he pushed his cart there every day to sell, specializing in school business. Stall is fixed.Lao Peng is very clever in doing business. He prepares several different stuffings every day, and the prices vary. The most expensive one is pork stuffing with mushrooms. Now in Taiwan, there are no real mushrooms. I’m afraid no one has seen what kind of stuffing.Lao Peng's hot noodle dumplings are not only well mixed, but the oil is properly used, and the most amazing thing is that the dumplings will not harden when they are cooled.One year, Minister of Finance Kong Yongzhi came to Beiping to inspect finance and taxation. A senior official invited him to eat Tanjia cuisine. Kong said, "I made an appointment with Fei Qihe, the principal of finance and business, to eat hot noodle dumplings at the school. Thank you." It was passed around that Tan's food was not as good as Lao Peng's hot noodle dumplings. This word later reached Tan Zhuanqing's ears, and Lao Tan stared in anger.After such a publicity, there are people who come to eat Lao Peng's hot noodle dumplings by car. You can see how powerful Lao Peng's appeal is. Smoked fish fried gluten, carrying a red lacquer cabinet on the back of the street to sell smoked fish fried gluten, but these two kinds of food, ten times out of ten.Most of what he sells are found on the head of the pig, or the offal of the pig.There are people who sell smoked fish, and a dozen or so people can form a pot guy.Braised in a big pot, smoked in a big pot, and then carry the cabinet to sell each.When Jiangnan Yu Wu first arrived in Beiping, he lived in the Majiala Temple in Nanchizi. There were a group of pot guys living in the temple, so Yu Zhenfei unknowingly became addicted to eating pork liver selling smoked fish. Always bring a bag of braised pork liver.The pork liver sold for smoked fish is marinated somehow, not salty at all, but also a little sweet, it goes well with wine, and the white mouth will not feel salty or thirsty.In addition, those who sell smoked fish also sell peeled smoked eggs. I don’t know how they choose them. Each one is not much bigger than a pigeon’s egg. In addition, each person will be full with one or two small fires.