Chapter 5 Talk about eating in Peking

Some time ago, I wrote an article "Eating in Peking" in "Lianfu". Thanks to Mr. Liang Shiqiu for his advice under the pseudonym "Zijia". , so (rewrite this addendum) let’s talk about several famous schools in Peking. Now is the season to eat roasted mutton, let's say "Dong Lai Shun" first. The shopkeeper of Donglaishun, surnamed Ding, was at first selling fried mutton with a cart down the street. Later, because of his good craftsmanship and sufficient portions, the small business became more and more prosperous, but he changed to set up a stall in Dong'an Market.The hands are clean, the people are easy-going, and all the mutton tendons are removed, so there are a lot of customers and the business is booming. When it comes to lunch and dinner, everyone has to line up to get a seat.And it was really too busy for one person, so I started to drive along with the surname Zhao in Niujie.The expansion from the second floor to the fourth floor, even the roof is sold out, this is purely the result of Boss Ding's painstaking efforts and bleak management.

Donglaishun is a shop that does not forget its roots. Although the business has grown, there are still two rows of brick tables and stone benches facing the fire house behind the stove in the auspicious tea garden. All the poor people go there to eat mutton dumplings, beef with green onions, mutton and cabbage. , with a lot of oil and meat, all four cents and ten.For those with a particularly large appetite, forty dumplings and a bowl of haggis soup are enough.If you eat it upstairs, even though the dumplings are filled with meat, they will cost you forty cents and ten.People do good deeds silently, sympathize with the elderly and the poor, so the business becomes bigger and bigger and more prosperous.

After Donglaishun's business developed, he first bought dozens of acres of land in the southern and western suburbs, and opened gardens to grow vegetables.All the vegetables used in the cabinets are all produced in their own homes, which are authentic and of course lower in cost.Afterwards, another soy sauce garden was opened, so the same dish was offered at the same price as other restaurants, but Donglaishun was much more profitable than other restaurants. Donglaishun's best dish is "mutton oil bean mouth fried mochi tofu". Although it is a very common home-cooked dish, their sheep oil is the same as lard, divided into old oil, medium oil, and tender oil. It is refined in a porcelain jar Serve it up and take it out anytime.It is said that the more mutton oil is refined, the less smelly it will be. At the same time, the sesame tofu is ground by itself, and the degree of fermentation is just right, with a little sweetness in the sourness. Therefore, this dish can be called early cantaloupe in Donglaishun-another flavor.

"Fried fake sheep tail" is also Donglaishun's specialty dish.Whisk the egg whites until foamy, coat with fine bean paste, and roll a thin layer of flying lo noodles. It really looks like fried lamb tail.This is one of the more fancy beets.It is said that this dish is most appreciated by General Ma Fuxiang of Rehe Dutong. Every time he goes to Beiping for business, he must go to Dongweishun to eat fried lamb tail, because Ma Dutong never forgets fried lamb tail. "He is like honey" is also a famous dish in the Islamic Museum.There are a dozen or so large and small Muslim halls in Beiping, but the ones made by any of them are not as smooth as the ones made by Donglaishun. "He is like honey" is probably translated into Chinese characters in the Hui language, and it is "smooth lamb tenderloin" to put it bluntly.There is a restaurant in Peiping in Kaohsiung, which advertised in the newspapers, and its specialty dish is "he is like honey". I don't know how it tastes.

Although Ding Yongxiang, the shopkeeper of Donglaishun Shao, attended a business school for two years, he gave up his studies and went into business because he was too busy with the business at the counter.After dinner, whenever he was free, he would go to the Dechang Tea House opened by Cao Xiaofeng in the South Garden of Dong'an Market. If he arrived early, he would play "Locking Five Dragons", and if he arrived late, he would play Liu Biao.Over time, I became obsessed with the box office.As soon as the shopkeeper Ding was wrong, he was sent to watch the seats on the third floor, and he was not allowed to go downstairs. But Ding Yongxiang was really good at it, so he practiced his voice on the third floor. Thank you so much."Make your voice high and bright.Zhang Rennian, the name of the pharmacy of Xiehe Hospital, and Fei Jianhou, the father of Fei Yuce of the opera school, are both frequent customers of Donglaishun, and they are close friends with Ding Yongxiang. As soon as they arrive in Donglaishun, they run up to the third floor, chatting and talking. Hanging your throat for two or three hours.

Later, Ding Yongxiang worshiped Jiang Shaokui as his teacher, and became even more fascinated by the drama.One winter, the old shopkeeper went to Tianjin with his followers. The shopkeeper Ding Shao saw that this was a good opportunity, so he, together with Zhang Rennian and Fei Jianhou, signed a knowledge list, and the clean behavior of Liujiu City can be said to be complete. Please come.It just so happened that the author was also eating shabu shabu in Donglaishun that day, and Ding Yongxiang showed off the list of knowledge: including Qiu Guixian, Dong Junfeng, Hao Shouchen, Hou Xirui, Yu Yunpeng, Jiang Shaokui, Wang Lianpu, Luo Lianxiang, Li Shoushan, Fan Futai, Fan Baoting, Lian Jingxing Fancier Qin Gu'an counted a total of 20 to 30 people, which can really be regarded as a big festival of pure acting.It is said that this group of people cut more than 300 plates of beef and mutton slices alone.Later, someone initiated the scandal and planned to have a big party, but it couldn't be done.When Ding Yongxiang mentioned this incident, his eyebrows became beaming, and he thought it was the most revealing thing Donglaishun had done since he started his business.

After talking about Donglaishun, it's time to talk about "Xilaishun". Xilaishun is located on West Chang'an Avenue, opposite to "Xuannanchun" (later changed to the Central Barbershop). Chu Xiang, opened in reverse with Mu Ziyuan, a wealthy Muslim businessman, and opened just in time for the twelfth lunar month. On the left and right sides of the door, there are two large characters like "grilled shabu" with red letters and white backgrounds, surrounded by small electric lights, which are both bright and sober. Eye.As soon as you enter the door, you will see a long yard. The main building and the east and west rooms on both sides are separated into elegant seats. Under the tall lead iron shed, there is a row of barbecue sticks. The aroma of barbecue makes you want to step inside to satisfy your cravings.

Xilaishun's dishes are 10% to 20% higher than Donglaishun's, but the dishes are much more detailed.Xilaishun can make real-winged mats, but it is rare to use Donglaishun for the whole table. People in Peiping used to pay attention to "Bianyifang" and "Quanjude" when they ate roast duck. Later, those who knew how to eat roast duck wanted to eat roast duck, and they went all the way.The most important thing about eating roast duck is that the duck skin is crispy and crispy, and the duck meat is tender and tender.Bianyifang and Quanjude eat old food and stick to the law. When it rains or snows, you can go to eat roast duck. The duck is roasted to the table, and the skin is soft and the meat is still soft.Because the slaughtered stuffed duck must be hung up to dry first, and when the water vapor dissipates, take it off and use a blowing needle to pierce the skin of the duck to blow air, let the skin and flesh separate, hang it up again for air drying, and then serve it in the oven when it is time to eat Freshly baked to be delicious.But when it rains on a cloudy day and the air humidity is too high, no matter how you dry it, the roasted duck will always be skinny and not crispy because the dehydration is not enough.Chu Xiang was very thoughtful about cooking, and You Laishun hadn't dismantled the stove that used to burn the big pool in Huayuan Tangzi, so he dismantled it and changed it into a small drying room.Xi Laishun's roast duck, in addition to passing the wind first, has an additional drying process regardless of the weather, so no matter the weather or rain, the roast duck in his family is crispy and tender, but it comes from behind.The real duck building can't keep up with others.

Xilaishun's "chicken wonton" is also a must, but not many people know about it.Whether the wonton is good or bad, the stuffing and the skin are divided into half.Chicken must be stuffed with live meat to make it smooth and palatable, and the skin must be rolled out with a rolling pin. The skin on the cut surface is too thin, but it should not be too thick.Huizhou's duck wontons taste good, but the skin is a little thicker, which detracts from it.Therefore, the wrapping wrappers must be hand-rolled to a moderate thickness, and the wrapped wontons can be called top choice. After the victory, Ma Lianliang's apartment in Fuxiang was the most high-end place for dignitaries to have supper at that time. In fact, the most famous dim sum are "chicken chaoshou" and "stuffed dumplings".In the past, there was a "Huixianju" at the corner of West Chang'an Avenue in Xidan Pailou. Everyone called it "Xiaolou". Being able to eat steamed dumplings with stuffing at Ma Wenru's house makes everyone feel like meeting old friends.

The so-called stuffing, the main ingredients are chicken, duck blood, shredded carrots, old pumpkin, minced shrimp, etc., but steamed dumplings, it has a special taste.Chu Xiang went to Ma Lianliang's house to cook supper every night. Although he didn't make much money, he met many dignitaries.It is said that by using this route, I opened a magnificent Jiaomen Pavilion in Los Angeles, USA, and now I have millions of dollars in my pocket and become a rich man in the United States. Among the Jiaomen halls outside Qianmen, "Liangyixuan" is the most ostentatious. In terms of qualifications, it is older than Donglaishun and Xilaishun.In the early days, Hao, who worked in Liyuan, lived outside Nancheng, and no matter what kind of work he had to pay attention to protecting his voice.Everyone thinks that eating pork is the most phlegm-producing, so friends from Dajiao, Muslim, and Liyuanxing all like to eat beef and mutton at Jiaomenguan.Liangyixuan took advantage of the favorable location, so Liyuanxing was chosen.

Liangyixuan's "cooked shrimp section" is the most popular dish. Ma Lianliang can be regarded as a gourmet expert in the Liyuan circle. None of them can tell. There is another dish in Liangyixuan, which was discovered by the veteran movie star "Black Peony" Xuan Jinglin.Xuan left the film industry from Shanghai and went to Peiping to retire.Once, I went to Liang Yixuan for a drink with a friend, and the waiter introduced her to a non-vegetarian appetizer called "roasted shredded duck and stir-fried sting skin".The shredded roasted duck should be shredded with the skin of the roasted duck, which has a slightly smoked roast flavor. The jellyfish must use the sting skin. If you like to eat coriander, add a little coriander and fry it. It is a wonderful product for drinking.However, this dish needs just the right amount of fire work, and the stinging skin is so tender that it can't be chewed. How to keep it calm depends on the craftsmanship of the master chef. Gu Lanjun went to Beiping for a year, Xuan Jinglin invited Gu Lanjun to Liangyixuan for snacks, and there came a fried sting skin with roasted shredded duck. After tasting it, Gu was full of praise.Later, when I returned to Shanghai, I ate at the "Dayalou" on Sima Road one day. I remembered this dish. Dayalou is another restaurant in the north, so I asked for a roasted shredded duck with fried stinging skin.When the dish was served to taste, the shredded duck was not skinned, and it was very flattering on the cabinet. The jellyfish skin was fried with jellyfish head instead.It can be seen from this that if you try any dish without knowing the tricks, it will be ruined. Liangyixuan also has a special feature, whether it is raw Zhang or cooked Wei, as soon as you sit down with a friend, he will definitely come with two dishes, either "crispy crucian carp" or "sesame sauce mixed with lettuce and lettuce", or "Osmanthus jujuba" ", the small plate is affordable and must be eaten.It doesn't mean that it's a gift from the cabinet, but it means the respect from the guys. Hearing it in the ears makes the owner feel happy from the heart, and it also looks very dignified in front of friends.Can you not give me a few extra tips after finishing the meal?Now the restaurants in Taiwan are so good, they will add 10% service charge to you for reason and ruthlessness, and they will serve you a plate of watermelon or a few pieces of oranges at the end, regardless of whether they are raw or cooked, whether they are sweet or sour. Money, reminds people of the hospitality and thoughtfulness of the waiters in the big and small restaurants in Beiping in the past, how can it not make people feel nostalgic for the past!