Some time ago, I went to Beijing and lived there for ten days.Just like walking in the inland in the past, it neither explores the remote places, nor is it linked to academics. It is a burden on both shoulders, and it is purely to visit some real people's food.Therefore, walking through the streets and alleys in Beijing has indeed eaten a lot.But I am not from Yan, and I have never stayed in Beijing before. I don't know the old taste of these foods, and how much they have changed after the earth-shaking, so I can't help but think of Tang Lusun. In the early 1970s, a new old writer suddenly appeared in the literary world of Taipei.The so-called Xinjin has never heard of his name before.As for the old man, he was already past his sixtieth birthday when he started writing, and he was Tang Lusun. In 1972, the supplement of Taiwan's "United Daily News" published an article "Eating in Beijing" full of "Beijing flavor", which aroused the thoughts of water shield perch in old Beijing, and was widely read at home and abroad.Tang Lusun is not only a new and old writer, but also a prolific writer. From then to more than ten years after his death, he published twelve volumes successively (referring to Taiwan Dadi Publishing House.——Editor) Talk about the customs of the hometown, the customs of the market, the fashion of food, and other collections of anecdotes and anecdotes.

Although the contents of these collections are very diverse, they are mainly about diet, and more than 70% of them are about diet.Tang Lusun has such a strong interest in eating, and is so persistent. In the final analysis, there is only one word, which is "greedy".He wrote in "Laohezi": "A while ago, Mr. Lu Yaodong mentioned in the newspaper that Tianxingju in Taipei would make Luohezi, so he hooked me, a greedy glutton." Mr. Liang Shiqiu read Tang Lusun The first collection of "Chinese Food" wrote an article saying: "Chinese people are greedy, maybe Beijingers are more greedy." Tang Lusun's response was: "I am a Chinese and a native of Beijing, so I can be greedy." I am greedy." Tang Lusun's relatives and friends originally called him a glutton.He said: "My relatives and friends are very gluttonous. Later, my friends and readers thought it was a bit embarrassing to call me a glutton, so they named me a gourmet. In fact, I am still a glutton." The difference: gourmets mark their own social status, and only choose expensive delicacies to eat; gluttons are not jealous, eat everything, and eat everything with relish.Tang Lusun is a greedy person, and greed is the driving force for his writing.The series of articles he wrote about food can be described as greedy.

However, Tang Lusun's gluttony is not an ordinary gluttony. It has its own origin: Tang Lusun is a bannerman, his original surname is Huatala, and he belongs to the Eight Banners inlaid with red flags.The great-grandfather Changshan, styled Lechu, served as a general in Guangdong.He is good at writing, elegant and good at writing. When he was in Guangdong, he recruited Wen Tingshi and Liang Dingfen to read with his two sons. Later, all four of them entered the Imperial Academy.The eldest son Zhirui, courtesy name Boyu; the second son Zhijun, courtesy name Zhonglu, served as the Minister of the Ministry of War and sympathized with the Kangliang Reform. Xinjiang, later ordered to return, was assassinated in Xinhai.Zhong Lu was Tang Lusun's grandfather, and his name Lusun was derived from this.Tang Lusun's great-uncle, Changxu, was an official to the Minister of the Ministry of Punishment, and his two daughters were also selected to serve Guangxu in the palace as Concubine Zhen and Concubine Jin.The two concubines Zhen and Jin are Tang Lusun's aunts.At the beginning of the Republic of China, Tang Lusun was seven or eight years old. He entered the palace to kowtow to Concubine Jin during the Spring Festival, and was granted a first-rank official position.Tang Lusun's mother was the daughter of Li Henian.Li Henian, a native of Fengtianyizhou, served in the Imperial Academy in the 25th year of Daoguang (1845), and served as governor of Henan, governor of rivers, and governor of Fujian and Zhejiang.

Tang Lusun was descended from a famous family in the world, and the eunuch's family all had their own rules about food and clothing, so they couldn't do anything casually.Tang Lusun said that his family used fried rice with eggs and shredded beef with green peppers to try out the home cooks, and if they were combined, they would be hired, and each had its own specialty.As small as home-cooked braised noodles, you can’t be careless. You can’t pass the soup if you don’t pour out the soup. When you eat noodles, you must put them in your mouth as soon as you pick them up.This is the gluttonous environment that Tang Lusun cultivated since he was a child.However, although Tang Lusun lived in Beijing, he traveled in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Guangdong and Guangxi, as far as Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan and Guizhou, and became a man from east to west, north to south.In terms of diet, I have tasted sweet in the south and salty in the north, spicy in the east and sour in the west. The taste is neither east nor west, neither south nor north, and it has become a hybrid dish.This is good for Tang Lusun, a greedy person, and he will not be picky when he eats it all over the world.

Tang Lusun's father passed away early, and at the age of sixteen or seventeen he was about to set up a household, socialize and socialize with diplomats, drink wine, and started his personal experience of eating out of the house.When Tang Lusun was in his early twenties, he went out to work, first in Wuhan and then in Shanghai, and traveled all over the country.He finally stepped out of the city of Beijing, looked at the north and the south, and ate, but his hunger was even worse than before.He said that he had eaten fish from the Lixia River in Jiangsu and white fish from the Songhua River, but he had never eaten sturgeon from Qinghai.Finally, there was a chance to walk the earth.He said: "It's the ninth day of winter, the ground is freezing and the weather is cold. Everyone is willing to spend a comfortable year with family reunion at home. With this opportunity that this person abandons me and takes it, I will naturally go on my way and brave the cold. " Tang Lusun's "Westward Journey in the Cold" this time not only ate Qinghai's sturgeon fish and grilled yak meat, but also ate a whole lamb banquet in Lanzhou, Gansu. Tang Lusun really traveled the world for greed.

In the thirty-fifth year of the Republic of China, Tang Lusun came to Taiwan from across the sea, where he first served as the director of the Songshan Tobacco Factory in Taipei, and was later transferred to the Pingtung Tobacco Factory. Retired in 1973.After retirement, I feel that I have nothing to do, and I can spend the rest of my life.Finally, he wrote a pen for an article. As for the scope of the article, he said: "I have a disease, and I pretend to be good. Others call me gluttonous. Therefore, it is enough to write down the wine and food that I have eaten in the past. It's entertaining." So the greedy people said that it was born like this.Xia Yuanyu, his first literary friend who later became a close friend, said that Tang Lusun's articles described the taste of cooking in words, "like the scenery of mountains and rivers, describing the big drum of a black girl."This means that Tang Lusun's gluttonous people talk about gluttony, not only writes about the taste of eating, but also sets off the taste of eating with the scenes of eating, which is difficult for anyone to compare.Therefore, Tang Lusun said: "Everything should pay attention to innocence. Taste the taste with your own tongue, and then write it with your own hand, it seems to be more real and concise than writing out of the wind." Therefore, Tang Lusun put his own food experience Writing it out truthfully and concisely just filled the vacuum of some dietary information in the era he experienced, and became the first-hand information for studying the evolution of diet in this period.

The diet information of Taiwan in the past half century is especially blank. Tang Lusun came to Taiwan in the spring of the 35th year of the Republic of China. What he saw, heard and ate, can also be seen from the truthful and concise records of what he saw, heard and eaten. During the rheology of diet.He said that when he first arrived in Taiwan, apart from Tingping North Road, Taiping Township, Penglai Pavilion, Xinzhonghua, and Xiaochunyuan, several big restaurants in the Qiongshidanfang of Taiping Township, he wanted to find a decent place, and there was no wine girl Yujiu. It can be said that there are very few restaurants. After 1949, people from all over the world came to Taiwan one after another. First of all, Cantonese cuisine became popular, followed by Sichuan cuisine, and Shaanxi steamed buns were added. Seafood was once a bustling scene.Later, I wanted to eat fat and thick stall dishes, so Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine took advantage of the time, and then turned to Huaiyang cuisine.As a result, Jin Jiyu came on the stage to offer food, and the mountain vegetables and wild game that the village Tong Shan Lao loved to eat were also mixed.It can be said that it integrates the great achievements of food from all over the world and brings together the tastes of the north and the south. This is a mixture of traditional Chinese food in Taiwan.

However, these delicacies from other places, Tang Lusun said, there is always a feeling of paradox when eating. The influence of migration and the acquisition of materials are different, and they are no longer the old-fashioned taste.So greedy people live with each other, and use local materials to satisfy their greed.Tang Lusun has lived in Taiwan for more than 30 years. He often travels from south to north, from east to west, and discovers many local delicacies and snacks in Taiwan.He appreciates Taiwan's seafood very much, and thinks that Taiwan's seafood is a combination of the seafood of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian and Guangdong, and it is even better, so he satisfies his craving with these seafood.In addition to seafood, Tang Lusun also searched for snacks from all over the world, such as Sichen Soup, Pengshe Turtle, Jizai Meat Dumplings, Rice Cakes, Milkfish Porridge, Meinong Pig’s Knuckles, Taitung Asahi Shrimp, etc. These are all old Taiwanese snacks , some are now lost.Tang Lusun ate it with relish, and he spoke clearly and logically.He especially likes Chiayi's shark fin meat soup and Donggang's honeycomb shrimp.When it comes to food, Tang Lusun is all-inclusive, not just blindly.In fact, to eat, you must not only have a good stomach, but also a broad mind. There should be no difference between local and foreign food, and they should be treated equally.

Tang Lusun writes about Chinese food, although the gluttonous people say gluttonous, but gluttonous people say gluttonous, and sometimes it makes sense.He said that China has a vast territory, with dangerous mountains and rivers, and the customs, people, tastes, and climate are very different. Because of the different food and beverage materials in different places, there are also great differences. Different regions in Tongcheng have their own unique tastes. The so-called sweet in the south and salty in the north, spicy in the east and sour in the west, although not all, but generally not out of line.He said that the classification of Chinese cuisine can be roughly divided into three major factions, namely Shandong, Jiangsu, and Guangdong.According to rivers, it is the cuisines of the three major basins of the Yellow River, the Yangtze River, and the Pearl River. The classification method of this Chinese cuisine is basically similar to mine.I talk about the development and evolution of Chinese history, that is, one city, one river, and two rivers.One city is the Great Wall, one river is the Yellow River, and two rivers are the Yangtze River and the Pearl River.The history of China has gradually transitioned from north to south from ancient times to middle ages, modern times and modern times, and the development and evolution of Chinese food is also contained in it.

Tang Lusun wrote greedy people say greedy, but at the beginning there was still nostalgia that couldn't be contained, but this kind of nostalgia gradually faded away after time passed.He has regarded his hometown as his hometown, and there is no distinction between the north and the south, the difference between the native and the foreign.However, he wrote very cautiously.He said: "Since I resumed my career in writing and ink, I have set a principle that I only talk about food and entertainment, not other things. After half a century of ups and downs in the officialdom, if you criticize current affairs and provoke unnecessary instigation, you will not be asking for trouble. As the saying goes: "The big hermit hides in the court, and the small hermit hides in the city." Tang Lusun hides in food and drink, bends and stretches with the world, although he compares himself to a greedy person, he is a happy and self-sufficient person.